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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



OCT 11 1B87 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
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The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/johnsonsjourneya01john 




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From a photograph taken July, 1887. 



JOHNSON'S 

Journey Around the World. 



Fifty Thousand Miles of Travel, from the Golden Gate to 

the Golden Gate. Interesting Observations in 

Various Countries of Europe. 



TWICE ACROSS THE ALPS 



Sights in Egypt, India, Africa, New Zealand and the 
Sandwich Islands. 



Six Thousand Miles Through Australia. 



Daring Adventures of a Lone White Man among the Natives in 

the Interior of Ceylon, China and Japan, Twelve 

Times Across the Western Continent, with 

a Description of all the Various 

Routes and Sights of 

Interest. . 

BY OSMUN JOHNSON. 



SOLD BY SUBSCRIPTION. 



Chicago. 

1887. 



1887. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, by Osmun Johnson, in the 
office of the Librarian- of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



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zmwmz. 



Printers, Publishers and Engravers, 
Chicago. 



PREFACE. 

During thirty years' residence in California, 
I have led a busy life, enduring much hard toil 
and the many privations incident to life in the 
gold mines in early days. I have pursued many 
different avocations: mind and body have been 
in constant motion. After such an exciting career 
I resolved to take a rest, and have a change of 
scene ; to travel abroad, and visit all of the prin- 
cipal places of note ; to traverse the ocean, and to 
feast my eyes and mind upon the wonders of the 
Old World. For the last twenty years I have had 
an increasing desire to take a spin around the ball. 
I felt it to be the greatest gift and treat that 1 
could bestow upon myself, and finally determined 
to put my ambitious desire into execution. So I 
hastily prepared to go, and made arrangements to 
remain as long as I should find enjoyment among 
an unknown people in unknown lands. Now, what 
I rely on to make this simple narrative interesting 
is not the talent or literary training that I have 
had, but my ability to present,, in an original man- 
ner, the information obtained, not only from guides 
and interpreters, but from my own observation. 

(3) 



4 Preface. 

During my travels I kept a daily record of events 
and incidents connected with my tour around the 
world. And in writing an account of this extended 
tour, brief mention will be made of my adventures 
on this continent, across which I have made twelve 
different trips during the last thirty years; I shall 
state the years the journeys were made in, the 
different routes traveled, the distance, and the 
principal points of interest on each one. As this 
narrative is to be filled up with mixed material, 
and possibly presented in a somewhat rambling 
manner, the writer asks the indulgence of the 
reader, as he makes this his first venture in the 
new and untried field of literature, remembering 
always that a wide difference frequently exists 
between the farmer and the educated traveler, the 
plowshare and the pen. 

Osmun Johnson. 

Modesto, Cal., August 5, 1887. 



CONTENTS. 



> PAGE 

CHAPT. I.— The United States . . 9 

San Francisco — The Columbia — Yellowstone Park — Dakota — 
Minneapolis to New York City — Funeral of General Grant — 
Other Journeys over the Western Continent — Sierras — The Mor- 
mons—The Missouri — Indian Attack — Big Trees and Yosemite — 
Los Angeles— Steamboat Racing on the Mississippi — Niagara— 
The St. Lawrence — Walker Expedition against Nicaragua. 

CHAPT. II. — The Atlantic and the British Isles.. . 56 
Crossing the Atlantic — Queenstown — Dublin — Liverpool — Lon- 
don — Glasgow — The Clyde — English Railway System. 

CHAPT. III. — France, Switzerland and Austria... 77 
Dover to Calais — Paris — The Louvre — Tomb of Napoleon— Fu- 
neral of Admiral Courbet — First Crossing of the Alps — Berne — 
Lake Constance — Bavaria — Vienna — On the Danube. 

CHAPT. IV. — Germany and Denmark 102 

Bohemia — Saxony— Dresden — Berlin — Wiirtemberg — Emperor 
Wilhelm — Hamburg — Bremen — Copenhagen — Czar of Russia. 

CHAPT. V. — Sweden, The Baltic and Russia. 120 

Malmo — Stockholm— Inland Lakes — The Baltic — St. Petersburg. 

CHAPT. VI.— Norway 126 

Trolhatta Fall — Frederickstad — Fjeldes, Fosses and Fiords — Iron 
Mines and Fisheries — Christiania — Prince of Wales — Skager 
Rack — The Kilhorn — Hardanger Fiord — Drammen — Skien — 
Satra Life — Kragero — The Cariole — Gjerestad — Kindness and 
Hospitality — The Brylup — RisOr — Christiansand — Ship-building. 

CHAPT. VII. — Across the North Sea, Germany and 

the Alps ..... 143 

Sea-Sickness— The Elbe — Hamburg — Frankfort-on-the-Main — 
Heidelberg — Carlsruhe — Baden-Baden — Stuttgart — The Rhine — 
Second Crossing of the Alps — St. Gothard Tunnel — Lake Lucerne. 

CHAPT. VIII. — Italy, Gibraltar and Malta. .... . 154 

Milan — Venice — Verona — Bologna — Florence — Rome — Naples — 
Vesuvius — Pompeii — Excursion to Gibraltar — Malta — Brindisi. 

CHAPT. IX.— The Mediterranean, Egypt, Red Sea 

and Arabian Sea .■ 185 

Greece — Alexandria — Cairo — Pyramids — Great Desert — Nile — 
Suez Canal — Red S_ea — Sinai — Aden — Cape Guardafui — Socotra. 

(5) 



6 Contents. 

CHAPT. X. — Ceylon and India 204 

Colombo — The Singhalese — Kandy — Hill Country and Scenery 
of Interior — Buddhists — Madras — Mohammedans — Brahmans — 
Calcutta — Custom House — The Hugh — Ganges — Bay of Bengal. 

CHAPT. XI. — The Voyage Over the Indian Ocean.. 225 
The Equator — Officers and Passengers Promenading Barefooted — 
Lunches — Jolly Passengers — Instructive Conversation. 

CHAPT. XII.— Australia 228 

Cape Leeuwin — Albany — Adelaide — Great Australian Bight — 
Melbourne — The Interior — Vast Resources — Extensive Coal De- 
posits — Sydney — Zigzag Railways of the Blue Mountains. 

CHAPT. XIII.— New Zealand 251 

Captain Cook — Products — Gold — Scenery — Curious Birds — Rail- 
ways — The Maori — Wellington — Fine Climate — Fertile Soil. 

CHAPT. XIV. — The Australian Coast. 260 

Coast Towns — Great Barrier Reef — Coral Sea — Torres Strait — 
Pearl Fishing — Gulf of Carpentaria — Tropic Heat — Port Darwin. 

CHAPT. XV. — Philippine Islands and China Sea 

to Hong-Kong 275 

Arafura Sea — Burning Mountain — Borneo — Celebes Sea — Philip- 
pines— Java — Singapore — The China Sea — The Typhoon. 

CHAPT. XVI. — China, from Hong-Kong to Canton. 285 

Hong-Kong — Victoria Peak — Macao — Canton — Pagodas and 
Temples — Whampoa — Marco Polo — Interior — Boat Population. 

CHAPT. XVII. — Chinese Coast and Shanghai 319 

Chinese Fishing Fleets — Swatow — Foochow — Ningpo — Amoy — 
Shanghai — The Yang-tse-kiang — Mixed Population. 

CHAPT. XVIII. — The Yellow Sea, and Coast and 

Coast Towns of Japan 327 

Nagasaki — Women Stevedores — Papenberg Island — Progressive- 
ness of the Japanese — Kobe — Hiogo — Neatness and Thrift — 
Theatres — Osaka — Dress — The Price of a Wife — Kioto — Temples 
— National Customs — Shinto Sect and Buddhists — Fusiyama. 

CHAPT. XIX. — The Interior of Japan 354 

Yokohama — The Jinrikishia — Sedan Chair — Tokio — Mikado's 
Palace — Bathing — Nikko — Kamakura — Great Resources — Many 
Converts to Christianity — Politeness and Kindness of the People. 

CHAPT. XX. — Homeward Bound Across the Pacific, 

via Honolulu, to San Francisco 383 

On the Steamer City of Peking — Honolulu — The Sugar King — 
Explosion on the Mariposa — Return Through the Golden Gate. 

Appendix 395 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PACK 

Portrait of Author Frontispiece 

California Street, San Francisco 13 

The Palmer House 28 

The Brooklyn Bridge - 31 

Temple and Tabernacle, Salt Lake City 36 

View in Denver 39 

The New Bridge at Niagara, with the Falls in the Distance. 52 

Dublin from the Liffey 60 

The Prince of "Wales and Family 63 

London, with St. Paul's in the Distance 66 

The Tower of London 68 

Westminster Abbey 71 

The Old University of Glasgow 73 

Paris. 80 

The Palace of the Luxembourg. 83 

Place de la Concorde 85 

Berlin 104 

The Siegessaule, in Berlin 107 

Emperor Wilhelm no 

The Royal Palace, Stockholm 123 

Christiania 1 29 

Milan Cathedral. 155 

The City in the Sea. 158 

St. Peter's at Rome. 167 

Naples and Mount Vesuvius 174 

The Town and Rock of Gibraltar 180 

The City of Cairo 191 

Melbourne, the Capital of Victoria 234 

(7) 



8 Illustrations. 

Chinese Pagoda 299 

Japanese Woman Spinning Silk 330 

Japanese Women Ornamenting the Hair 341 

Riding in a Sedan Chair in the Interior of Japan 34S 

Mr. Johnson in Japanese Costume, with Fusiyama for a Back- 
ground 351 

Japanese Ladies Bathing 358 

Dining in Native Style 367 

Mr. Johnson in the Jinrikishia, the Common Mode of Travel 

in Japan 372 

Bronze Image of Buddha 374 

The Cliff House and Seal Rocks 392 



Johnson's Journey Around the World. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE UNITED STATES. 

Before starting on such a long and perilous jour- 
ney, it became a matter of great importance to 
select to advantage the best routes of travel o'er 
land and sea ; to visit the frigid regions in Europe 
during the warmest season of the year, so as to 
avoid the oppressive cold ; to travel in the tropical 
climes of Asia and Africa during that portion of 
the year when the terrific heat of the sun's rays 
would be the least oppressive, and to avoid the 
dangerous monsoons and typhoons that prevail at 
certain seasons of the year. Many travelers had 
gone before me, and many had never returned, 
and, keeping this fact in view, I endeavored to so 
shape my journey as to avoid all of the dan- 
gers incident to such a trip. I had traveled over 
the various routes on this continent before starting 
on this tour, except by way of the Northern 
Pacific Railway; and, as this route traversed a 
country which I had never seen, I decided to take 
it, and thus avail myself of an opportunity to 
view the grand and picturesque scenery on the 
Columbia River, the Cascade Mountains in Oregon, 

(9) 



10 Around the World. 

the Yellowstone, the great National Park, the Gey- 
sers, etc. So I left instructions in regard to my 
business affairs, and started out on my rambles, 
promising myself to take in all that was worth 
seeing in Europe and the Orient. 

Before beginning to give a description of the 
varied scenes I witnessed in my travels, the pan- 
orama of faces, skies, cities, mountain, valley and 
desert, I am going to give a brief description of 
my home in the once far-off West. I started from 
Modesto, a thriving,, enterprising little city situ- 
ated in the San Joaquin Valley, the great wheat 
region of California. This beautiful little place 
of between three and four thousand inhabitants is 
exceedingly well located in the centre of a grain- 
growing country. It is the county seat of Stanis- 
laus County, — has many fine and substantial build- 
ings, both business and private; has the advanta- 
ges of a healthful climate, and nearness to all the 
large commercial centres of the State ; has splen- 
did schools and many churches. So, after bidding 
adieu to my many friends at this place, I boarded 
the train, and was soon speeding away over the 
plains. The chief attraction on this line was the 
wheat fields dotted with bags filled with grain 
awaiting transportation, — for we of this valley can 
raise grain enough to feed the hungry at home and 
abroad and have an abundance to spare. Every, 
where could be seen the indications of a bounti- 



Port Costa — Oakland. 1 1 

ful harvest, the reward which always rejoices the 
heart of the tiller of the soil. 

The first point of interest on this route is Port 
Costa, on San Francisco Bay. It is one of the 
greatest wheat depots in the State, and has an 
immense warehouse capacity. Here the farmer of 
a speculating turn of mind stores his wheat, and 
takes chances on the rise and fall of the market. 
The Star Mills, the largest flouring mills in Califor- 
nia, are located near here, and some of the largest 
ocean vessels afloat can always be seen at the 
wharves loading the precious cargo. At Port Costa 
there is also a railway ferry boat of enormous size 
which is used in transporting overland passenger 
trains across the straits to the Benicia side. 

From here I journeyed on to Oakland, the city 
of churches, seminaries, and colleges of learning, 
and, so far as piety and good morals are con- 
cerned, considered the model city in the State, not 
excepting San Jose. Oakland is noted for its ele- 
gant private residences, its parks and gardens, its 
profusion of majestic live oaks, and the picturesque 
beauty and variety of scenery by which it is sur- 
rounded. Many of the wealthy citizens of San 
Francisco and a large number of retired farmers 
have their homes here, where they and their fam- 
ilies can enjoy the many educational and other 
advantages of this quiet city. 

Five miles from Oakland, on the opposite side of 



12 Around the World. 

San Francisco Bay, I found myself in the bustling 
city of San Francisco. This city is famous for its 
magnificent harbor and its exports of gold and 
wheat, — it is the largest city of the Pacific coast, and 
is the fourth city of the United States in foreign 
commerce ; it has a population of 350,000. San 
Francisco is lined with costly edifices, from Golden 
Gate Park to the home of the lucky millionaire on 
Nob Hill. A few of the many attractions this city 
contains are Golden Gate Park, the Cliff House, 
the Presidio; Telegraph Hill, from which you ob- 
tain a fine view of the bay, Oakland, Saucelito, 
and, in fact, of all the surrounding country; Wood- 
ward's Gardens, Sutro Heights, the Panorama, 
Theatres, Operas and Museums. It has a goodly 
number of fine hotels, the most extensive of which 
is the Palace. This hotel was erected at a cost of 
four millions of dollars, and is the largest caravan- 
sary in the world. In my estimation, the South- 
ern in St. Louis, the Palmer House in Chicago, or 
the Windsor in New York are inferior in compar- 
ison with the Palace. The city contains many 
magnificent cathedrals and imposing structures, 
and possesses every facility and advantage to en- 
able it to maintain its position as the metropolis of 
the Pacific coast. 

On the 25th day of July, 1885, I embarked 
on the coast steamer State of California for 
Portland, Oregon, — a distance of 800 miles from 






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14 Around the World. 

San Francisco. As we moved out from the dock, 
we waved a last adieu with our hats and handker- 
chiefs to the friends we left behind us. This last 
parting will long be remembered. Soon the faces 
of those we loved were left in the dim distance; and, 
as we sailed out of the Golden Gate into the broad 
Pacific, I felt this to be the practical beginning of 
a long and perilous journey, and it led to queries 
in my own mind as to whether I should ever return 
to my home in sunny California, or whether I 
should meet the fate of many an adventurous 
traveler who has found a last resting place in some 
distant clime or been consigned to the tender mer- 
cies of the restless deep. This portion of the 
Pacific was not pacific, a fact soon determined by 
many of the passengers, who were decidedly sea- 
sick. At sea this most disagreeable of sickness is 
called " feeding the fishes." The swell of the sea 
and the roll of the vessel soon proved too much 
for a landsman like myself, and I joined the num- 
ber of sea-sick passengers. But in my case the 
sea-sickness lasted only two days, and I found my- 
self with better health and a better appetite, so 
concluded there was much truth in the old adage 
that " it is an ill wind that blows no one any good." 
After recovering my equilibrium I made new 
friends and some interesting acquaintances, who 
helped to make the days pass swiftly by. On this 
coast there is no object worthy of note after leav- 



The Columbia. 15 

ing Cape Mendocino; and no incident worthy of 
mention occurred. We could see nothing but the 
fish, the broad expanse of water, and the blue sky 
overhead. 

On the third day at sea we steamed into 
Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia River. 
This place has the largest salmon fisheries in the 
world, and is about 650 miles from San Francisco. 
The bay in the vicinity of Astoria is dotted with 
fishing boats whose occupants are engaged in catch- 
ing fish for the canning establishments. These 
unfortunate fishermen often meet with accident, 
and wrecks and loss of life are of frequent occur- 
rence, as this is a stormy shore. Astoria is an old, 
flat, rusty-looking town, with wooded bluffs in the 
background. The surrounding country is well 
timbered. A large number of sailing craft can be 
seen from Astoria plying up and down the coast 
between Puget Sound and San Francisco; they are 
principally engaged in the lumber trade. The 
northern coast of California exports a large amount 
of choice lumber, such as sugar pine, spruce and 
redwood to Australia, Japan and the East. 

After leaving Astoria we entered the famous 
Columbia River. On either side of this stream is a 
succession of elevated ranges thickly dressed in 
spruce and pine. When the powerful engine of 
our steamer # had forced its way through the foam- 
ing current for 100 miles, we found ourselves 



16 Around the World. 

at Portland, which is situated on the western 
bank of the Willamette River, a tributary of the 
Columbia. Portland is the metropolis of Oregon, 
and has a population of 40,000. It is said to be 
one of the richest cities in proportion to its size 
in the United States. It is well laid out, with 
many beautiful residences, and is destined, by 
reason of its natural advantages, to become a large 
city within the next twenty years. Several large 
ocean vessels were anchored at her wharves loading 
wheat for Europe. Oregon is blessed with a very 
rich soil, an abundance of rain, and an almost 
inexhaustible supply of timber; her many valleys 
are fertile and picturesque. The lofty eminence 
which girts the city of Portland seems to prove 
the greatest attraction for tourists. Here they can 
overlook the shipping, and the life and bustle in the 
city below. Here, also, can be seen the farms and 
groves of the broad Willamette Valley, and a 
distant view can be had of five of the largest 
mountains in the United States: Mount Hood, 
Mount Jefferson, Mount Tacoma, Mount Adams 
and Mount St. Helens. The peaks of these 
mountains are covered with perpetual snow. 

After leaving Portland, I resumed my journey 
by rail for St. Paul, a distance of about 1,950 
miles, which we made in less than four days. It 
seemed but a short space of time before we were 
over the Cascade Mountains and into Eastern 



Washington Territory. 17 

Oregon. Along this route, on the Columbia River, 
can be seen some of the finest railway engineering 
and wildest mountain scenery in the West; the 
further you follow the winding, foaming stream, 
the more the scenery increases in grandeur and 
interest. At Wallula Station we found that we 
had left the Web-foot State. Here I resumed my 
journey in the direction of Walla Walla. The 
country, as seen from the cars, presented a variety 
of scene and soil. At times fertile fields presented 
themselves to our view, again we were treated to a 
succession of hills covered with bunch grass, and 
at other times stretches of country which boasted 
of no vegetation but sage-brush met our view. As 
the eastern portion of Washington Territory is 
remote from the market, and has no extensive 
railway system to transport its products, wheat- 
raising is indulged in to but a limited extent. The 
principal industry is stock-raising ; vast herds of 
cattle can be seen grazing on the hills. At Ains- 
worth the cars crossed the Snake River on one of 
the largest iron bridges on the Northern Pacific. 
Spokane Falls is the last and one of the most 
important towns in Washington Territory. It is 
surrounded by timber, and contains several sights 
of interest, including the most imposing water- 
falls east of the Cascade Mountains. From here 
on to the Idaho line the land is uncultivated, 
and barren of vegetation. We crossed over into 

2 



18 Around the World. 

Idaho, and journeyed along the shores of Lake 
Pend d'Orielle. This beautiful body of water is 
fed by snow from the surrounding peaks. Our 
road wound its way around these lofty mountains, 
until at last we found ourselves in the gateway of 
the Rocky Mountains. Here a grand sight met 
our eyes: the snow-covered peaks glistening in the 
sun, the streams and cataracts tearing their way 
down the mountain's side, all proclaimed this to be 
one of Nature's masterpieces. Idaho produces large 
amounts of gold and silver. We found the country 
to be thickly timbered, but poorly improved. The 
principal resources of this Territory are stock- 
raising and mining. Boise City, its capital, is the 
centre of a large mining district, and many exten- 
sive mines are in operation in its vicinity. 

Speeding along at a rapid rate, we soon reached 
Montana, the finest stock-raising country on the 
Northern Pacific road. Vast herds of cattle could 
be seen all through this country: the land is mostly 
owned by the government, and these Montana 
stockmen have extensive ranges now, where prob- 
ably, in a few years, when the tide of emigration 
turns that way, there will be many farms and the 
land will be extensively cultivated. Much of the 
beef is exported to Europe. In addition to her 
stock-raising interests, Montana has a fine climate, 
much rich soil, and great mineral wealth. At Mul- 
len's Pass we crossed the main chain of the Rocky 



Crossing the Rocky Mountains. 19 

Mountains, passing through a tunnel nearly 4,000 
feet in length, and at an altitude of 5,500 above the 
level of the sea. The road eastward runs through 
a level valley which is well timbered. We found the 
scenery very picturesque. The next place of int- 
erest was Helena, the capital and largest city. It is 
situated on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mount- 
ains, and also near the headwaters of the Missouri 
River. The country on the northern side of the 
city has a panoramic appearance, — lofty mountain 
peaks loom up in the distance, and add much to the 
grandeur of the scene. Helena is the centre of 
one of the largest mining districts on the continent. 
In the last few years many million dollars have 
been taken from the soil, and there are a large 
number of extensive paying mines at present in 
operation. Montana, however, seems to have been 
designed by nature for a great pastoral country, and 
reaps larger returns from her stock-raising interests 
than from her mineral wealth. 

As we journeyed eastward from Helena, I was 
much impressed by the extensive valleys : always 
could be seen in every direction the vast herds of 
cattle grazing on the seemingly abundant feed. 
To my mind, it was a perpetual reminder of beef- 
steak. At Livingston, 125 miles east of Helena, 
there is a branch road to the National Yellowstone 
Park, a distance of sixty miles. This famous resort 
I decided to visit, and while here I met tourists from 



20 Around the World. 

home and abroad, who, like myself, had been im- 
pressed with a desire to witness one of nature's 
greatest wonders. This valley is enclosed by 
mountains, many over 10,000 feet in height. Its 
deep canyons, lofty falls and numerous bathing pools, 
geysers and lakes, make it in many respects the 
most wonderful portion of the continent, and even 
of the world. It has been set aside by Congress as 
a " perpetual reservation for the benefit and in- 
struction of mankind." Some of the hot springs 
and geysers throw boiling water hundreds of feet 
into the air. Yellowstone Lake is seventeen miles 
wide by twenty miles long. Several small steam- 
ers on this lake convey the tourist to various 
points of interest. It strikes me it would be well 
to call this park the playground of America, as 
Switzerland is termed the playground of Europe. 

Well, as the writer is a traveler on the wing, 
he resumes his journey on the main line. Jour- 
neying eastward from Livingston, we arrived at 
Glendive, an important trading post. We had 
now traveled 800 miles, the extreme length of 
Montana. While penciling these last notes in 
my memorandum book the iron horse has whirled 
us over the boundary line into Dakota. Medora 
is the first station on the Little Missouri. It is 
surrounded by many odd and Curious hills, in all 
shapes and sizes, called "The Bad Lands," and 
I was fully convinced that these lands did not 



Dakota. 21 

belie their name; the soil seemed to be of every 
kind and color ; great numbers of cattle were seen 
grazing on every hill. Here, also, are extensive 
hunting grounds; wolves, buffalo, deer and elk can 
be found on the prairies. This must be a para- 
dise for hunters. The next station we arrived at 
was Dickenson, which is located in a fertile val- 
ley. It had the appearance of being a hunting 
ground also, if one could judge from the variety 
of stuffed deer, wolves, and the skins of wild ani- 
mals which were hanging in sight and were. for 
sale at the depot. After passing New Salem, we 
began to see new settlements, the first .we had 
seen in this remote region. Western Dakota has 
a fertile soil, and vegetation grows luxuriantly. 
It is, however, destitute of timber: this creates a 
scarcity of fuel, which is a great drawback to the 
prosperity of this section, where the winters are 
long and severe. The coal which is used here 
has to be brought a long distance, and at great 
expense for transportation. Mandan is a thrifty 
city of 3,000 inhabitants, situated on the west bank 
of the Missouri River, about half way between the 
Montana and Minnesota line, and is the terminal 
point of the Dakota and Minnesota division of 
the road. 

The whole country west of Mandan is dotted 
with rude farm houses. All of these farms are 
scantily improved, and everything bears evidence 



22 Around the World. 

of newness and want of means. But the tiller of 
the soil in Dakota has a fine prospect before him, 
and in a few years will reap the reward of his 
labors, and independence and comfort will take 
the place of the inconveniences and discomforts at- 
tending the life of the pioneer. On the east bank 
of the Missouri stands the thriving city of Bis- 
marck, a place of about 10,000 inhabitants, a 
large proportion of whom are Europeans. The 
Missouri here is spanned by an enormous iron 
bridge, the largest structure of the kind on the 
Northern Pacific between Portland and St. Paul. 
Between Bismarck and the Minnesota line the 
aspect of the country changes most favorably; it 
is level and fertile, covered with fields of waving 
grain. The main attraction to farmers in this 
section of Dakota is the farms of Dalrymple. 
These farms consist of 75,000 acres, all under 
cultivation. It was harvest time when I saw 
them, and the vast prairie, covered with its wealth 
of golden grain, presented a brilliant sight. 
The Dalrymple farms are situated in the valley 
of the Red River of the North, the banner farm- 
ing belt of Dakota. I was now reminded of our 
extensive farms in California, to me the garden 
spot of the earth. I could not but think how her 
farmers were favored with the mild, even climate 
and the long, dry summers that afford such ample 
time to harvest the grain. 



Minneapolis. 23 

After 350 miles of rapid riding in Dakota, 
we arrived at Fargo, on the western bank of 
the Red River of the North. This stream is 
the division line between Dakota and Minne- 
sota. On the east side of the river we found 
the enterprising town of Moorhead, and had our 
first glimpse of Minnesota, the fourth greatest 
grain State in the American Union. Were it not 
for the high latitude and the long and severe 
winters, she would lead the van as a great grains- 
growing State. All along the line of the railroad 
could be seen signs of wealth and prosperity, 
especially in the Red River Valley. Brainerd, 
an attractive and flourishing city of 10,000 inhab- 
itants, is situated on the Mississippi River 
140 miles northwest of St. Paul. It is surrounded 
by a vast and fertile prairie that is dotted with 
beautiful farms. Pursuing my journey eastward, 
the next place of importance reached was Little 
Falls, situated among and surrounded by forest 
trees, and boasting of having the largest hotel 
on the Northern Pacific Railroad. It also has 
a branch railroad running to Minnewaska Lake, 
one of the loveliest summer resorts in Minnesota. 

One hundred miles more and we entered Minne- 
apolis, the queen city of the Northwest. This city 
has a population of 1 25,000, and is one of the great- 
est milling points in the world. It is situated on a 
level plain on the western bank of the Mississippi'. 



24 Around the World. 

Many of the streets are lined with imposing build- 
ings which would do justice to either London or 
Paris. Aside from being a great railroad centre, 
this city is backed by a densely settled farming 
country, extending over the fertile pbins to the Red 
River Valley. One of the chief points of interest 
is St. Anthony's Falls. It is a magnificent sight to 
watch the foaming torrent as it tears its way over 
rocks and precipices until it reaches the Missis- 
sippi. This fall is often called the Niagara of 
the West. It has an estimated capacity of 135,000 
horse-power at the lowest stage of water. This 
water-power is utilized in the various mills, some 
of which I visited. The Washburn and Pillsbury 
Mills are said to have the greatest grinding 
capacity of any mills in the world. Long trains 
of cars can always be seen here loading flour, 
which is shipped to Chicago, and from thence to 
various points on both continents, and this flour is 
converted into bread to feed the hungry millions 
with. While here I also visited several woolen 
factories, where hundreds of men and women are 
constantly employed in the manufacture of woolen 
goods. 

Twelve miles from Minneapolis lies St. Paul, 
the capital of the State. It is a thriving, enter- 
prising commercial city, situated at the head of 
navigation on the Mississippi River. This city is 
built on an elevation, and one can have a magnifi- 



St. Paul. 25 

cent view of the river, upon which boats can be 
seen during most of the year plying up and down 
the stream. While St. Paul has not the water- 
power that Minneapolis has, she has the advantage 
of being the capital of a growing and prosperous 
State, and this advantage she intends to retain. A 
great rivalry exists between these two cities, each 
trying to control the great growing Northwestern, 
trade; but the suburbs of each are growing out in 
the direction of the other, and it seems as if the 
two must soon become one great city, with inter- 
ests in common and a common destiny. The 
growth they have made within the last score of 
years has been marvelous. When I first visited 
Minnesota, twenty-five years ago, each of these 
places had less than 7,000 inhabitants. In 1886 
they had a combined population of over a quarter 
of a million. 

St. Paul has various means of egress. One 
can have their choice of a number of routes by 
rail, or they can travel by water on the river 
steamers until that becomes monotonous, and then 
can return to the swifter method of transit. But 
at this juncture I concluded to stay with the 
rail, so took the train at the Union Depot, on 
the line known as the Chicago, Milwaukee & 
St. Paul. The first city of importance that I 
arrived at in the Badger State was La Crosse, 
situated on the Mississippi River, and also at 



26 Around the World. 

the mouth of the Black River. It is the centre 
of a large lumber industry. From here I re- 
sumed my journey to Kilbourn City, on the 
Wisconsin River, a distance of eighty miles. 
The chief attractions on this route were the 
numerous bluffs and thickly wooded valleys, until 
we arrived at the Dells. This place is quite a 
summer resort for Milwaukee and Chicago peo- 
ple, who come here during the warmest part of 
the summer to enjoy a change of scene and of 
air. The Dells are a narrow, rocky gorge, only 
a few feet wide, and miles long, where the Wis- 
consin River penetrates through bluffs whose 
high and curious walls extend perpendicularly in 
the air. It is an interesting sight to stand on 
one of these high elevations during- a freshet in 
the spring, and watch the foaming torrent of 
water pouring into this narrow passage. Thirty 
years ago, before I became a pioneer to the 
then far West, my home was near Kilbourn 
City. Here my parents first made their home 
after emigrating from Europe. Here my boyhood 
days were spent among the tamaracks and oaks 
in the green meadows. In the winter we were 
surrounded by snow-clad hills, and near us were 
beautiful lakes. I enjoyed a brief and pleasant 
sojourn among my many old and almost for- 
gotten friends. Time had wrought many changes; 
but memory, busy with the past, brought many 



Milwaukee — Chicago. 27 

pleasant recollections to my mind. Old-time 
scenes and incidents were recalled. 

After bidding my friends adieu, I again resumed 
my journey. I took the cars at Kilbourn City, and 
was soon swiftly speeding away over marshes, 
swamps, tree-clad hills and rolling prairie. On 
this route the towns worthy of note were Portage 
and Watertown ; ere long we arrived at Milwau- 
kee, the largest city in Wisconsin. It is one of 
the five great lake ports, and has a large com- 
merce in breadstuff's, provisions and lumber. The 
next city of importance was Racine, which is not 
far from the boundary line of Illinois, and we soon 
arrived at Chicago, which is a great railway centre, 
and I again have my choice of a variety of routes. It 
is not the intention of the writer to make extended 
mention of these large cities which lie on the beaten 
line of travel and are so well known to us all, but 
rather to give a brief resume of the places of impor- 
tance he passed on his journey over the continent. 

Chicago is a city of recent and remarkable 
growth, its population having increased nearly 70 
per cent, in the last ten years. Originally built 
on low ground, it has become, in its grading, drain- 
age and water supply, a monument to the energy, 
sagacity and public spirit of its citizens. In Octo- 
ber, 1 87 1, a fire, one of the most destructive in 
modern times, swept away three and a quarter 
miles of its most valuable storehouses and resi- 



Scenes Through Pennsylvania. 29 

dences. Notwithstanding - this sudden calamity, 
the most extensive and disastrous that ever befell 
an American community, the new Chicago that 
has already sprung from the old is, in every respect, 
a grander city. It is the commercial metropolis 
of the St. Lawrence basin, the chief lumber and 
pork market in America, and, next to London, the 
greatest grain market in the world. 

On leaving Chicago, I decided to travel by way 
of the Fort Wayne & Pennsylvania Railroad, and, 
by so doing, I passed many of the largest iron 
mines, viewed some of the rolling mills, and visited 
all of the principal cities in Pennsylvania, including 
Pittsburg, Harrisburg and Philadelphia. I also 
crossed the largest rivers in the State, and made 
the climb over the Alleghany Mountains. I here 
saw some of the grandest mountain scenery and 
most difficult railway engineering in the Union. 
Arriving at Philadelphia, I proceeded to view the 
points of interest. I visited the U. S. Mint, and had 
a fine view of the city from the elevated railway. 
The most famous public building is the old State 
House, where the Declaration of Independence was 
adopted, July 4th, 1 776. Philadelphia is the second 
city in the United States in manufactures and popu- 
lation, and the fifth in the amount of its foreign com- 
merce ; it also has an extensive domestic commerce, 
and is the greatest coal depot in America. It is 
noted for its Fairmount Park, its well supplied 



30 Around the World. 

markets, and its abundance of cheap and com- 
fortable dwellings ; it is sometimes called the 
" City of Homes." 

After leaving Philadelphia, my next stopping 
place was New York City. All along the line of 
the railroad between Philadelphia and New York 
can be seen busy cities, bearing the marks of age, 
enterprise and prosperity. New York City is the 
richest and most populous city in America. It is 
noted for its extensive commerce, the number of its 
magnificent hotels, banks, churches and private 
dwellings. I visited Central Park and the Brooklyn 
Bridge, saw the Vanderbilt and Gould mansions, 
and gazed upon the busy, bustling throng in Broad- 
way and Wall street. The elevated railway ex- 
tends twelve miles, from Harlem River to Castle 
Garden. In 1880, only two cities in Europe, 
London and Paris, exceeded New York in popula- 
tion. Brooklyn, the third city of the United States, 
and Jersey City, in New Jersey, are so closely 
connected with it that they really constitute one 
great city. Besides these are many residential 
towns connected with New York by rivers and 
railroads. So numerous are these towns that the 
total number of inhabitants within a radius of thirty 
miles around New York City is not less than 
2,500,000. While in New York I attended the 
funeral of General Grant, the most imposing pa- 
geant ever witnessed in America, 




(31) 



32 Around the World. 

Now that my journey from San Francisco to 
New York over the Northern Pacific road has been 
described, before I cross the Atlantic, and enter 
upon my tour of the Old World, I will make brief 
mention of my other transcontinental trips. Per- 
chance, some other traveler may follow in my foot- 
steps, and, finding himself in San Francisco unde- 
cided which route to travel by, would be glad to 
know what the various points of interest are on 
each route. Not that these few pages are intended 
as a guide book, for they are not, but simply a 
narrative of the experience of a traveler. 

When I made my first journey overland, in 1870, 
I traveled byway of the Central and Union Pacific. 
San Francisco was my starting point; at Port 
Costa we crossed, on the large railway ferry here- 
tofore mentioned, to Benicia, and were soon speed- 
ing away toward Sacramento, the capital of our 
Golden State. A few miles from Sacramento the 
character of the country changes, we leave the 
fertile valleys behind, and find ourselves in the 
foot-hills of the Sierra Nevadas. The climate and 
soil of these foot-hills are peculiarly adapted to 
fruit-raising. All varieties of grapes grow to per- 
fection, small fruit trees of every kind are culti- 
vated here, and even tropical and citrus fruits are 
raised successfully. This portion of California has 
also been a great mining region, and there are 
still a number of rich mines in successful opera- 



Over the Sierra Nevadas. 33 

tion. One of the grandest sights in the Sierras 
is Cape Horn, where some marvelous engineering 
can be seen. Here the track is cut on a narrow 
ledge around the peak, from which there is a per- 
pendicular descent of almost 2,000 feet. The 
scenery along here will compare favorably with 
that of the Alps, the Alleghanies, the Kandy 
Mountains in Ceylon, or even that seen from the 
zigzag railway in the Blue Mountains in Australia. 
The Sierra Nevadas constitute one of the erand- 
est mountain chains in the world. Their loftiest 
peaks reach an elevation of about 15,000 feet, 
and are the highest in the United States. Their 
forest-clad western slope has its foot in the low 
valleys almost at the level of the sea ; and, 
with their long line of peaks covered with per- 
petual snow, their gigantic spurs and numerous 
foot-hills rich with gold, their deep canyons, 
foaming torrents, and giant trees, they present 
landscapes famous throughout the world for vari- 
ety, beauty and sublimity. Their eastern slope, 
though bold and rugged, is much narrower and 
less imposing. Truckee, situated on the eastern 
slope of this range of mountains, is surrounded 
by a country that is grand, romantic and heavily 
timbered. Near here are the famous snow-sheds, 
which are about thirty miles in length. A few 
miles distant are Donner Lake and Lake Tahoe, 
both noted summer resorts These beautiful 



34 Around the World. 

sheets of water will compare favorably with Lake 
Lucerne, in Switzerland, or Lake Como, in Italy. 
Lake Tahoe is about twenty-two miles long by 
fourteen wide. It is 1,500 feet deep, and its sur- 
face is about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea. 
Thirty miles east of Truckee, we arrived at 
Reno, the first town of note in Nevada. Here are 
two railway lines, one running to Carson City, the 
capital of the State; the other for Virginia City, 
which lies in one of the richest silver regions in 
the world. A peculiar feature of the latter road 
is that it is about as crooked as a corkscrew. Ne- 
vada is called the Silver State, and with equal truth 
might be called the Sage-Brush State, as sage-brush 
abounds so plentifully. It is, however, pre-emi- 
nently a mineral State, its resources of this nature 
being extraordinary in variety and value, and in- 
exhaustible in quantity. Prominent among the 
hundreds of rich mines are those of the famous 
Comstock ledge,from which many millionaires have 
evolved. From Reno eastward, we soon strike the 
Humboldt River, which is the largest river in the 
State. After a winding course of about 350 
miles, it is lost in the Humboldt and Carson sink, 
a shallow lake or marsh -of vast extent, its waters 
being brackish with salt and soda. As we go east- 
ward, we travel through a country which is for 
the most part level and covered with sage-brush. 
We pass Wadsworth, Winnemucca, Battle Mount- 



Salt Lake City. 35 

ain, Palisade, Carlin and Elko, occasionally catch- 
ing a glimpse of some beautiful bits of scenery. 
We next reach Utah, the land of the honey bee, 
as the Mormons style it. These Mormons constitute 
four-fifths of the population of this Territory. One 
could not but note the great contrast between the 
dry sage-brush country of Nevada and the fertile 
valleys occupied by the Mormons, or Latter-Day 
Saints, as they style themselves. Salt Lake City, 
the capital of Utah, is situated on the east bank 
of the Jordan River, the stream which connects 
Great Salt Lake and Lake Utah. It is 4,350 feet 
above the level of the sea, and is picturesquely lo- 
cated. Its streets are lined with shade trees, which, 
when in leaf, conceal many of the buildings from 
view, which gives a large portion of the city the 
appearance of a garden. These streets are 128 
feet wide, and a stream of water flows through 
each, from which the gardens are irrigated. The 
climate is considered very healthful. One of the 
chief attractions and points of interest is the 
sacred square, or temple block. Here the new 
temple, which has been years in the course of con- 
struction, is now nearing completion. I last 
visited this enormous granite structure in April, 
1885, on m y return from the New Orleans Ex- 
position. I also visited the Tabernacle, which is a 
spacious wooden structure 250 feet long by J 50 
feet wide, is seventy feet in height, and has an oval 




(36) 



Salt Lake City. 37 

roof. It has a seating capacity of 10,000 people; its 
twenty doors all open outward. In the west end 
stands the organ, which the Mormon attendant 
who guided me around, informed me was the largest 
organ in the United States. It is thirty feet wide, 
thirty-three feet long, and has 3,000 pipes. On leav- 
ing the church, I was requested to register my name 
in the great church register. I also visited the 
Zion Co-Operative Mercantile Institution. The 
head manager of this institution informed me that 
this was the largest mercantile house west of Chi- 
cago, that the capital invested in merchandise was 
$1,000,000, and that they constantly employed 160 
clerks. There is a museum containing a good col- 
lection of specimens. Another point of interest is 
the Black Rock bathing resort. The residence of 
the late Brigham Young, the Salt Lake Assembly 
Hall, and the Walker House, the leading hotel, 
are magnificent structures that would do credit to 
a city twice the size of Salt Lake. The Mormons 
occupy fertile valleys at the western base of the 
Wahsatch Mountains, and carry on extensive agri- 
culture by means of irrigation. These mountains 
are 10,000 feet high, and are covered with per- 
petual snow. A great many travelers and tourists 
visit Salt Lake City. 

On leaving - here we have the choice of two 
routes. One can return to Ogden, and there take 
the Union Pacific Railroad, the straight line to 



38 Around the World. 

Omaha, or he can take the Denver & Rio Grande 
road. The latter is the route I traveled in the 
spring of 1886, and by so doing saw some of the 
grandest mountain scenery in the State of Colo- 
rado. Denver, the capital of this State, is a 
thriving city of about seventy-one thousand in- 
habitants. Thirty years ago it was a mining 
camp, numbering less than two thousand souls. 
It is said to be the most rapidly growing city in 
America. From Capitol Hill we had a fine view 
of the city, which is well laid out. The streets 
contain many substantial buildings and many 
beautiful private residences. The St. James Hotel 
and the new Opera House are costly and elegant 
structures. Mr. 1 abor, an enterprising millionaire, 
has erected several buildings, at a cost of a million 
dollars each. Denver is situated at an altitude of 
5,000 feet above the sea-level ; the climate is pecu- 
liarly dry and healthful. It is surrounded by a 
country which is rich in mines of gold, silver, coal, 
iron and salt. It is by nature a railway centre. 
At the present time there are eight tracks run- 
ning in different directions, and there are more 
railroads being built, which will pass through 
Denver, and consequently ^help to swell the 
traffic of an already busy city. Much of her pros- 
perity is due to the sagacity of her business men. 
Journeying eastward from Denver, we find our- 
selves in a well improved and thickly settled farm- 




«! ,',V; ' ; 



mmm$ 



M l>; ; ;„- . ^ 



I' l\l ' \ ',, u ) , I 

if" \-^m , \ 

,-r-.:. - a . . >:,... - \ 















(39) 



40 Around the World. 

ing country. All along the line of the railroad 
are numerous cities and towns, until we reach 
Topeka, the capital of Kansas. The next place 
of importance after leaving Topeka is Kansas City, 
in Missouri, which is also a great railway centre, 
and is situated on the boundary line between Kan- 
sas and Missouri. 

Before going farther east, I will betake myself 
to Ogden, and give a brief description of what can 
be seen on this route, over which I have traveled 
three different times. After two hours' run from 
Ogden, we enter the Weber Canyon. Here the 
scenery is varied, and grand to behold. To the 
left of the road is a peculiar wall or overhanging 
red bluff. Lofty peaks which extend heavenward 
arrest the eye. But these are soon left behind, 
and we come upon new sights and scenes. We pass 
Echo Canyon, Devil's Gate and Devil's Slide in 
swift succession, and I soon found myself at Gran- 
ger's Station, on the boundary line of Wyoming 
Territory. This station is the terminus of the 
Oregon Short Line. Here a traveler for the 
Pacific coast can connect with the Northern Pacific, 
and see the magnificent scenery in Idaho and 
Washington Territory. He can go over the Cas- 
cade Mountains, and travel along the Columbia 
River to Portland, or he can reverse his journey 
and travel eastward and visit the National Yellow- 
stone Park, and thus, by zigzagging around a few 



Highest Railway Elevation. 41 

hundred miles, can see some of the grandest and 
most wonderful scenery in the world. 

Traveling from Granger's Station along the 
main line of the Union Pacific, we arrive in a short 
time at Sherman, the most elevated railroad station 
on the continent, having an altitude of 8,235 feet. 
East of Sherman, we are continually passing towns, 
cities and sheds, rocky cliffs and precipices, until 
at last we leave them all behind, and descend the 
eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains. Arriving 
at Cheyenne, one of the most important cities of 
the Union Pacific, and the capital of Wyoming, we 
find that we have traveled half the distance between 
Ogden and Omaha. Cheyenne is situated on a 
level prairie, and is quite a railway terminus. Here, 
again, the tourist can make a break in the journey 
if he desires, and visit Denver, a distance of 106 
miles, by taking the Julesburg short line. This, 
however, I consider a rather uninteresting route, 
as it runs through an open country, destitute of 
scenery, or any particular point of interest. The 
ride through Nebraska to Omaha, on the Union 
Pacific, is a very pleasant one. We traverse a 
vast prairie, watered by the Platte River ; an 
apparently endless number of horses and cattle 
can be seen roaming at will, and grazing on the 
plains ; in the far distance, one could occasionally 
catch glimpses of herds of antelope or buffalo. 
As we travel eastward, the towns become more 



42 Around the World. 

numerous, the country more thickly settled, and 
better improved. 

Omaha, a busy, bustling railroad centre, is sit- 
uated on the Missouri River. This city has grown 
like magic in the last twenty-six years; in i860, it 
had only 4,000 inhabitants; now it has a population 
of 60,000. In i860, I crossed the plains from the 
Missouri River to the Pacific coast in an ox team. 
This was my second journey over the continent. 
What a contrast between then and now ! On these 
broad plains roamed herds of wild buffalo, and 
travelers were always more or less at the mercy 
of the Indians, who attacked the trains of emi- 
grants and were always making raids on frontier 
settlements. Our train was called Captain Here- 
man's, of St. Louis, and consisted of about one 
hundred emigrants. We were attacked by Indians 
while camping near Salt Lake City ; the night was 
dark, and, after a severe conflict and with the loss 
of two of our number, we drove them off, but 
not until they had stolen our stock and left us 
destitute of teams. We were obliged to take our 
choice between traveling on foot or remaining in 
our wagons and starving. I was shortly afterward 
attacked by a grizzly bear in the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, and had a narrow escape. Th£se are 
but incidents of the many hardships endured by 
the pioneers of early days in their endeavors to 
reach the golden shores of California. Contrast 



Over the Southern Pacific Railroad. 43 

the difference! Then it required five months to 
make such a journey, and the weary, forlorn and 
footsore traveler endured many hardships and 
much privation. Danger was always staring him 
in the face. Now the traveler over the same 
route can sit in a palace car surrounded by many 
comforts and luxuries, and in five days reach his 
journey's end. The hostile savage has fled from 
civilization, and the vast wilderness is filled with 
new life, — towns and cities are springing up every- 
where, the old hunting grounds have been con- 
verted into well-tilled farms, and the whole country 
bears evidence of that change which can only be 
effected by the indomitable will and energy of a 
free people. 

I will now take the reader over the Southern 
Pacific Railroad, and, when at my journey's end, 
will have completed a description of all the various 
routes that I have traveled across the continent. 

This takes me back to San Francisco again as 
the starting point, and here let me remark, that 
the Eastern tourist in San Francisco will find many 
points of interest to visit within a few hours' ride 
from that city ; he will find much to see and admire 
at Monterey and Santa Cruz, both noted watering 
places. The Hotel del Monte, at Monterey, is one 
of the finest hotels on the coast ; it is built in a 
beautiful grove of live oaks. The grounds are 
handsomely laid out, and the climate is unsurpassed 



44 Around the World. 

for mildness and evenness. Many tourists from 
all over the world delight in wintering at this 
famous resort. The Geysers, in Sonoma County, 
are a great natural wonder, and are visited by all 
travelers. The Big Trees and Yosemite Valley are 
two of the greatest wonders of the world. The 
Big Trees are gigantic evergreens, a species of 
redwood, some of which are more than ioo feet in 
circumference and 400 feet high. In the Calaveras 
grove one was cut down which measured ninety-six 
feet in circumference and over 300 feet high; its con- 
centric rings showing its age to be about 3,000 years. 
The Mariposa grove contains many large trees. 
The Yosemite Valley is a remarkable chasm, ten 
miles long, and three miles wide in its greatest 
width, with perpendicular walls of granite from 
3,000 to 5,000 feet high. It is one of the many 
wonders sought out by tourists who visit California. 
We start now on the Southern Overland for 
New Orleans. The first part of the journey takes 
us through the great San Joaquin Valley. In the 
spring-time it is covered with fields of waving 
grain; in the "fall," or autumn, the broad expanse 
of yellow stubble shows that the husbandman has 
reaped the reward of his toil. All along this val- 
ley are numerous small towns and cities where 
fifteen or twenty years ago there were no signs of 
civilization. The broad plains and fertile valleys 
were uncultivated and unappreciated. The Califor- 



Los Angeles. 45 



V5 



nia farmer often counts his acres by the thousand, 
and sometimes by tens of thousands. Leaving this 
fertile valley behind, we enter a spur of the Sierra 
Nevadas, and cross the summit at Tehachapi, where 
there is some wonderful railway engineering in 
what is called "The Loop." We soon pass over the 
Loop, and reach Mojave, where we connect with the 
Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. This road runs alone 
the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, 
and crosses the Colorado River at a point called 
the '' Needles," which are a peculiar formation of 
rock extending high in the air above every other 
object, and are visible for a great many miles. 
This route is highly praised by tourists on account 
of the scenery. 

At Mojave the tourist can take the Atlantic & 
Pacific, or continue on with the Southern Pacific 
via Los Angeles, the garden city of Southern Cal- 
ifornia. This city is beautiful, with its gardens 
and orchards, which contain a remarkable variety 
of tropical and semi-tropical fruits and trees. 
Among them are hundreds of thousands of orange, 
lemon, lime and fig trees, and an endless number 
of grape-vines. Besides these are the pomegranate, 
the palm, the cypress, and many others too numer- 
ous to mention. The public buildings and the 
educational and religious institutions are among 
the best in the State. Five lines of railroad have 
here a common centre. The Southern Pacific con- 



46 Around the World. 

nects the city with the general railway system of 
the State and Union. The lines to Santa Monica 
and Wilmington give ready access to the ocean. 
The facilities for transporting, together with the 
extraordinary fertility of the soil and salubrious 
clime, make it a favorite resort, and the chief centre 
of trade for Southern California. This city has 
grown rapidly within the last few years, and now 
contains nearly 50,000 inhabitants. 

From here we continue our journey southward, 
through a beautiful, fertile valley, until Colton, 
another railway junction, is reached. Shortly after 
leaving here, we begin to travel over the desolate 
plains of Southern California. As far as the eye 
can reach, nothing can be seen but sage-brush and 
hills and cactus until we arrive at Fort Yuma, on 
the Colorado River. Near this river we crossed 
a barren desert, the surface of which is below the 
level of the sea, and through which the railroad 
extends a distance of sixty-five miles. Fort Yuma 
is one of the hottest places in the United States. 
The Yuma Indians, however, do not seem to mind 
the heat ; they ramble over the hot sands in a 
costume as scanty as that ascribed to Adam. 
These indolent fellows exist without industry, and 
appear to be born only to roam and die in the 
wilderness. I visited, while here, the United States 
Fort and the Territorial prison. The latter I found 
well filled with Arizona criminals, I was informed 



Through New Mexico. 47 

that very few of these culprits live to serve out their 
sentence, on account of the extreme heat. 

On our journey eastward, we cross desert after 
desert, the route over which many immigrants 
came to California in 1849, anc ^ the years follow- 
ing the gold excitement. 

The first town of importance we arrive at after 
leaving Fort Yuma is Tucson, the largest town in 
Arizona, and one of the oldest in the United States. 
It lies in the fertile Santa Cruz Vallev, is the centre 
of many stage routes, and has an extensive trade 
with the Territory and Northern Mexico. The pop- 
ulation numbers about 7,000. Many of the build- 
ings are of adobe, and bear the marks of age. In 
a short time after leaving Tucson, we reach Benson, 
where there is a branch railway for Tombstone. 
This city has a population of about 7,000, and is 
surrounded by rich silver mines. In a few hours 
after leaving Benson, we found ourselves in Lords- 
burg, New Mexico, also situated among rich silver 
mines. Continuing our journey, we soon arrive 
at Deming, a general railway terminus, where the 
traveler again has an opportunity of choosing 
routes for the East. The Atchison, Topeka & 
Santa Fe runs through an extensive pastoral re- 
gion, and intersects the Atlantic & Pacific at 
Albuquerque. This route I have been over once, 
seeing a diversity of country, but no particular 
point of interest. 



48 Around the World. 

The Southern Pacific, however, is the route I 
intend to follow on this particular journey. After 
leaving Deming, we travel for a hundred miles 
over a parched and desolate region in the southern 
portion of New Mexico. Arriving at El Paso, we 
catch our first glimpse of Texas. This is the 
largest city and greatest railway centre between 
Los Angeles and San Antonio. At El Paso, by 
slightly turning your eyes, you can view a State, 
a Territory and another country. The Rio Grande 
River divides El Paso, in Texas, from Paso del 
Norte, in Old Mexico. Here the traveler who 
is not pressed for time has a fine opportunity 
to take a trip across the line and inspect Mexico 
and Mexican customs. By taking the Mexican 
Central Railroad, one can travel through this 
country for several hundred miles, and form some- 
thing of an estimate of its resources. After leav- 
ing the thriving, enterprising American city of El 
Paso, and crossing the river to the Mexican side, 
one can not but be impressed with the contrast. 
Everything bears the impress of age : the buildings 
are old and of rude construction, and the imple- 
ments used in tilling the soil must have been 
patterned after those of the time of Moses. Not- 
withstanding the rich soil and fine climate, this 
slow-going country seems a hundred years behind 
the times. Ninety miles eastward from El Paso, 
we arrive at Sierra Blanca, where the Southern 



Steamboat Racing on the Mississippi. 49 

Pacific, or Sunset Route, diverges from the Texas 
Pacific, and the tourist again has the choice of sev- 
eral routes. 

Should the traveler decide to continue on the 
extreme southern route, he will travel the entire 
breadth of Texas, see many of the principal cities 
and towns, and pass over the most cultivated and 
fertile portion of the State. On tiring of travel 
by rail, he can take a steamer, and go to New 
Orleans by way of the Gulf of Mexico, taking in 
Louisiana, the land of cotton and cane ; and thence 
up the Mississippi to St. Louis, and in this way 
have a fine view of the numerous plantations that 
border this great river. I have journeyed up the 
Mississippi twice during the last ten years, and, 
after a 2,000-mile ride by rail, found the change in 
scene and motion quite refreshing. At one time I 
happened to strike one of those exciting steamboat 
races so often pictured on the Mississippi, and 
which are now a thing of the past. The excite- 
ment ran so high that one immediately forgot the 
danger of explosion, etc. The two boats would 
travel for miles at the top of their speed, side by 
side, each, of course, bent on victory. I have seen, 
when the excitement was at its height, boxes of 
bacon thrown into the furnace for fuel. 

Should the traveler decide in favor of the Texas 
Pacific and Missouri Pacific, he will also travel 
the entire breadth of the State, but further north 



50 Around the World. 

than on the other road. This road I have been 
over several times on account of my landed 
interests in Central Texas. For the first three 
hundred miles after leaving El Paso, the road 
traverses a barren country destitute of any object 
of interest save the prairie dogs and antelopes. 
For miles along the road the plains are dotted 
with cattle, and here can be seen, in all his 
glory, the somewhat famous cow-boy, as he rides 
over the plains on his prancing pony, sheltered by 
a broad-brimmed hat which seems to have been 
constructed with a view of defying the elements, as 
it serves not only as a protection from the burning 
sun, but, as the seasons change, is equally service- 
able in wind or rain. For hundreds of miles along 
this road can be seen neither church nor school- 
house. The Police Gazette and Texas Si f tings 
seem to be the cow-boy's substitute for the Bible. 
Arriving at Abilene, one of the largest wool centres 
in the United States, we leave the wilderness 
behind, and find ourselves once more in civiliza- 
tion, and from here eastward prosperity and enter- 
prise seem the rule all along the line of the road. 
The next point of importance reached was Fort 
Worth, where the road again diverges, and one can 
take the Missouri Pacific, running up through the 
Indian Territory, and from thence into Southern 
Kansas, and on to Kansas City ; but it is our inten- 
tion to journey more directly eastward, and we 



Through Texas, Arkansas and Missouri. 51 

continue our route in that direction until we reach 
Dallas, a growing town thirty miles from Fort 
Worth. We pass on, and soon reach Texarkana, 
situated on the boundary line between Texas and 
Arkansas, and here take our last glance at Texas, 
a State larger than several kingdoms in Europe. 

Traveling through Arkansas by way of the Iron 
Mountain Railroad, we pass through a region of 
swamps, cross the Red River at Shreveport, and also 
pass through Little Rock, the capital of the State. 
The main attractions along the line of this road 
were the negro cabins, corn fields and cotton plan- 
tations. Journeying through the southern portion 
of Missouri, we pass through a low, swampy region 
which is heavily timbered. Here I noticed several 
saw mills. One of the principal points of inter- 
est is the famous Iron Mountain mines. These 
mines, when in operation, employ several hundred 
men. In this vicinity are several noted mineral 
springs, which are great resorts for the health and 
pleasure seeker. In the direction of St. Louis our 
road runs along the Mississippi for some distance. 
I passed over this route in the winter of 1884, 
which was a winter of floods, and the train appeared 
to be traveling in water half the time ; but, in a 
less stormy winter, I should imagine this to be a 
very pleasant route, as the climate is so much 
milder than that of the sections traversed by the 
roads running farther north. 




(52) 



Various Routes — Niagara. 53 

If one remains over at St. Louis, he will, in all 
probability, seek the best accommodations, which I 
found at the Southern Hotel, the largest and most 
magnificent hotel in the Southwest. As a guest I 
have found it to be as good as it looks. In jour- 
neying from St. Louis to New York, the traveler 
may, with a slight loss of time and a little round- 
about travel, visit all of the principal cities in the 
central States. He can take in Louisville, Indian- 
apolis, Cincinnati and Chicago. If he should 
become wearied with mountain scenery, and care 
nothing for the attractions in the Alleghanies, New 
York or Saratoga, he can visit the cataract of 
Niagara, the grandest waterfall in the world. The 
water from the broad basin of four of the Great 
Lakes here falls over a precipice 164 feet in height. 
One can pass on through Canada, and visit Mon- 
treal, the chief city of the Dominion, and, after 
Chicago and Buffalo, the largest in the St. Law- 
rence basin. On leaving here, a few hours' journey 
either by water or rail will bring us to the busy 
city of Quebec, the capital of the Province of 
Quebec, and the second city in population in the 
Dominion. This city is noted for its picturesque 
scenery and severe climate. From here the tourist 
may, if he desires, embark for the Old World. 

In 1853, the first time I touched American soil, 
I traveled up the St. Lawrence, and was much im- 
pressed with the falls, canals, and picturesque 



54 Around the World. 

scenery along its shores. From that day forth the 
writer has been almost a constant traveler ; for 
only three years afterward he joined the filibuster- 
ing expedition of General William Walker, directed 
against Nicaragua. We took the steamship Texas 
at New Orleans. After an adventurous and some- 
what stormy career, Walker was finally captured, 
September 3, i860, condemned by a court martial, 
and shot. Some of his volunteers died, and others 
were shot by the natives. Those who escaped with 
their lives were scattered in various directions, 
some returning to New Orleans, and others to Cali- 
fornia. I was among the latter. In the winter of 
i860 I returned East. This was before the Cen- 
tral Pacific Railroad was constructed. I embarked 
on the steamship Illinois at San Francisco, crossed 
the Isthmus of Panama, stopping at Acapulco and 
Cuba. We had a calm and pleasant voyage on the 
Pacific side, but an unusually stormy and unpleas- 
ant one on the Atlantic. The voyage lasted 
twenty-three days. Thus it will be readily seen 
that the writer has been something of a traveler 
during the last thirty years, and that he has within 
that time experienced both pleasure and privation. 
Many times has he been questioned in regard to 
what he considered the most desirable route to 
travel, and perchance this brief description of the 
various points of interest to be seen on the different 
highways may be of service to some other tourist. 



Summer and Winter Routes. 55 

There are many different routes and many dif- 
ferent modes of travel over this continent, and to 
decide for others as to what route would suit them 
best would be a hard matter. In a word, they are 
all good ; there is much of interest to be seen on 
all of them. The season of the year would always 
be an important factor to be taken into consider- 
ation in making a choice. The southern overland 
route would be preferable in winter, and the north- 
ern in summer. It isn't exactly pleasant to be 
snow-bound with the thermometer below zero in 
the winter, neither would one enjoy the extreme 
heat of Arizona and New Mexico in the summer. 



56 Around the World. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE ATLANTIC AND THE BRITISH ISLES. 

I departed from New York City at noon on the 
nth of August, 1885, on the steamship Wisconsin, 
belonging to the famous Guion line, and bound 
for Oueenstown. As we slowly steamed out of 
the harbor, all hands stood on deck to take a last 
look at the receding shore. We could see the 
long wharf lined with people waving their last 
adieu to the friends who were going far away to 
sojourn for a season among another people, and 
in a foreign land. There were 200 passengers on 
board, embracing manv different nationalities, a 
variety of professions, and nearly all grades of 
society, from a nobleman to a California gold dig- 
ger. Each had an object in view; many were 
going to visit their friends, to return to the home of 
their youth after a lapse of many years ; and, once 
again on terra finna, this motley crowd would 
become scattered from the Baltic Sea to the Medi- 
terranean. Others were going with a view of 
making a home somewhere in Europe, to settle 
down and enjoy the portion accumulated in Amer- 
ica ; but, strange to say, I was the only one in all 



On the Atlantic. 57 

that goodly number who entertained the idea of 
making an entire circuit of the globe. 

The first day out we were favored with a calm 
sea, and we found " a life on the ocean wave " very 
enjoyable ; but the second and third days our good 
ship was tossed to and fro on the boisterous bil- 
lows, and, as a natural consequence, many of the 
passengers succumbed to that most disagreeable 
feature of ocean travel, sea-sickness. At such time 
I was generally to be found on the hurricane deck; 
the fresh salt air seemed to help dissipate the 
disagreeable feeling. The fourth and fifth days 
were a repetition of the first. We sighted several 
sailing craft, and enjoyed the unusual calmness 
of the sea. Nearing Newfoundland, we were 
enveloped in fog, and the music of the fog whistle 
could be heard every few minutes. A man sta- 
tioned at the bow was on a constant lookout, and 
every once in a while we could hear him sing out, 
"All well, forward." In every direction now could 
be seen fishing boats, with, their occupants busy 
gathering in the spoils of the deep. We also 
passed two dismantled hulks, which caused me to 
ponder on the possible fate of their occupants, and 
to wonder if we were to be consigned to the tender 
mercies of old Neptune. On Sunday we had relig- 
ious services on the quarter deck. It is the custom 
on English steamers to hold some sort of service 
every Sabbath. If there happens to be a clergy- 



58 Around the World. 

man on board, he generally conducts the services ; 
if not, the captain generally reads a chapter from 
the Bible. On the seventh day out we had a cool 
breeze, and sighted quite a number of steamers 
and sailing craft. The passengers were now get- 
ting somewhat accustomed to the motion of the 
boat, and were able to be out on deck. They were 
also becoming well acquainted, and many differ- 
ent kinds of amusement were devised for passing 
away the time. We had several very enjoyable 
concerts. For much of our pleasant times we were 
indebted to a few interesting and jolly Philadelphia 
ladies. On the eighth day we were introduced to a 
gale which watered the hurricane deck, and sent us 
all back to bed. We had no inclination to venture 
out of our state-rooms, but were contented with 
peeping through the port-holes at the storm. On 
the ninth day we had a head wind, which impeded 
our progress, and a defect was discovered in the 
boiler. It is rather monotonous, I assure you, to 
be obliged to stop in mid-ocean for repairs. How- 
ever, accidents are liable to occur ; and, if one is 
fired with an ambition to travel extensively in 
foreign lands, he must fortify himself with patience, 
courage, endurance, and last, but not least, coin. 

On the morning of the tenth day we caught our 
first glimpse of the coast of Ireland, a very welcome 
sight to those who did not enjoy ocean travel, and 
there were many. We cast anchor on the same 



From Queenstown to Dublin. 59 

day in the harbor at Queenstown, 3,000 miles from 
New York. Queenstown has a poor harbor, and 
heavily laden vessels are obliged to anchor quite a 
distance from the shore. Passengers and freight 
are transported to the mainland in tenders. The 
waters in this vicinity were dotted with fishing boats, 
and I was told that fishing was the principal 
resource of the people who live along this coast. 
After a brief survey of Queenstown, I was soon en 
route for Dublin. The entire country between these 
two places is densely populated and well improved. 
The landscape, dotted with cozy homes, and gilded 
by the rays from an August sun, was simply beauti- 
ful. To a Californian accustomed to broad fields of 
waving grain, with only an occasional farm house, 
this door-yard farming seemed very small business 
indeed. Here 8,000,000 people are crowded to- 
gether, and derive their livelihood from less than 
half the acreage on the Pacific slope, which has 
a population of less than a million. But thorough 
cultivation and fertilization force the soil to yield 
to its utmost capacity. This, combined with a 
diversity of crops, raising a few fine sheep and cat- 
tle, and the utmost economy and industry, enables 
these people to eke out an existence. In such a 
densely populated country the poor have a hard 
time to exist, and England's best statesmen have 
devoted much time and attention to trying to 
adjust the respective rights and privileges of land- 



60 



Around the World. 



lord and tenant. I hardly consider myself a prophet; 
still, I am willing to venture the prediction that this 
generation will not live to see the Irish question 
settled. Dublin, the metropolis of Ireland, is a city 
of about 300,000 inhabitants. The plan of the city 
is singularly simple. The River Liftey flows almost 
through the centre from west to east, and bridges 
connect long - lines of streets running north and 




Dublin from the Liffey. 



south. The communication between the two sides 
of the city is ample, there being nine bridges in 
a distance of about a mile and a half, and ferries 
for the two miles of shipping between the last 
bridge and the mouth of the river. Sackville 
street is the finest avenue in Dublin : the houses, 
however, are not uniform, and the street is not long 
enough for its width ; while the Nelson pillar, itself 
a beautiful object, blocks the view and interrupts 



In Dublin, 61 

traffic. On the other side of the Liffey, across the 
Carlisle bridge, is Westmoreland street, with the 
Bank of Ireland and Trinity College at the south- 
ern end. At rip-ht angles to Westmoreland street 
is Dame street, unquestionably the best street in 
the city. The houses are lofty and massive, and 
more than one of them colossal. At one end is 
Dublin Castle, and at the other, the great front of 
the Bank of Ireland and of Trinity College. The 
chief drawback to Dublin as a city is the sudden 
transition from magnificence to meanness, and in 
no part of it is there freedom from this unpleasing 
contrast. In addition to this, the soil is so oozy 
that, after even a slight shower, it is melted into 
far-spreading lakes of mud. 

The suburbs of Dublin constitute at present the 
chief of the many attractions which the stranger 
is wont to admire. Dublin is the seat of the Irish 
courts of law and equity, from which appeal lies 
only to the House of Lords. The means of edu- 
cation are ample. The incessant contests between 
the various religious denominations have had the 
effect of imparting energy to all engaged in teach- 
ing. Dublin has several noble edifices, the first 
and greatest of which is the Bank of Ireland, 
formerly the House of Parliament, which occupies 
five acres. Trinity College is in itself a source of 
pride to the city. Dublin Castle, being built of 
brick, the greater portion of it is dingy ; but the 



62 Around the World. 

tower and chapel are handsome. The Custom 
House is considered one of the chief ornaments of 
the city. Among the manufactures are woolen 
goods, silk and linen. The chief articles of export 
are whisky and the famous Dublin porter. 

After several days of rambling on the Isle of the 
Shamrock, I started for London, by way of Liver- 
pool. A portion of the distance we traveled by 
rail, and the remainder of the journey by steamer. 
On the 27th of August we anchored inside the 
magnificent breakwater at Liverpool, and I was 
soon engaged in inspecting one of the largest 
shipping ports in the world. The commerce of 
Liverpool extends to every part of the world ; 
but probably the intercourse with America stands 
pre-eminent, there being five lines of steamers 
running to New York alone, besides lines to 
many other American ports. The leading feature 
of the city is the wharves and harbor, and here 
can be seen the flag of nearly every nation on the 
globe. The two principal railway lines between 
Liverpool and London, a distance of 220 miles, are 
the Midland and the Northwestern. I chose the 
latter. We traveled at the rate of sixty miles an 
hour, which was the fastest riding during my whole 
tour ; and, for my part, I do not care to repeat the 
experience, as I consider it too fast for safety. I 
found the English railway system a novel, and, to 
my mind, uncomfortable way, of traveling. I do 




The Prince of Wales and Family. 
(63) 



64 Around the World. 

not enjoy being locked up in a compartment with 
half a dozen strangers. 

The road between Liverpool and London runs 
over a fertile and somewhat level country, lined 
with cities and smaller towns, the whole country 
being - densely settled, and under a high state of 
cultivation ; and I was again face to face with a 
country greatly in contrast with California in the 
size and cultivation of the farms. Here we see what 
can be done by industry and thorough cultivation; 
here a million exist with comfort on an area which in 
our country is occupied by a few thousand. Should 
the traveler prefer mountain scenery to that of a 
level agricultural district, he should travel by the 
Midland Railroad. We at last reach London, the 
metropolis of England, and the chief city of the 
British Empire. It is situated on both banks of 
the River Thames, and has an area of 123 square 
miles, and a population of about 4,000,000. A 
detailed description of the city would fill a volume, 
and the books written upon the subject are so numer- 
ous that they would fill a library many times over 
of themselves. I will content myself with men- 
tioning a few of the principal points of interest. 

I made Charing Cross Hotel my headquarters, 
on account of its central location. The streets 
within the city limits are in many cases confused 
and intricate ; and the total absence of plan in the 
construction of the nucleus of London has doubt- 



London. 65 

less tended to aggravate the confusion outside 
the old boundaries. Much of the effect of the fine 
architecture of the city's streets is totally lost from 
promiscuous crowding, and the main connecting 
streets between the city and the West End dis- 
play, at certain parts, much meanness and incon- 
gruity. Regent street, the most fashionable 
throughfare of London, possesses ample width, 
and the splendor of its shops atones to some extent 
for the plain monotony of its regular architecture. 
In Oxford street, which ranks next to it in impor- 
tance, there are many buildings of a more orna- 
mental character. Piccadilly, the eastern half of 
which is occupied chiefly by shops, and the western 
by dwelling houses and clubs, is a medley of every 
species of architecture. Close to the most fashion- 
able regions, there are many mean back streets, 
tenanted by workmen ; but the principal territory 
of the working classes is comprehended in the 
dense and dreary districts east and southeast of 
the city. I was much impressed with the activity 
of business. The confusion of vehicles, such as 
carts, hacks, hansoms, wagons, tramway cars, etc., 
all combined to keep up an incessant din from 
dawn until dark, and from dark until dawn again. 

The Metropolitan and Metropolitan District 
Railway lines, which run partly under ground, and 
form almost a complete belt around the inner circle 
of London, with' several branches intersecting it, 

5 




(66) 



Exhibition of Inventions. 67 

and others communicating with various suburban 
lines, have proved invaluable in relieving the throng 
of vehicles on the streets, and in affording rapid 
communication between important points. I was 
much interested in this underground railway. Every 
short distance the cars stop at a platform with a 
flight of stairs, upon which passengers can ascend 
to the street or descend to the cars. I consider 
this railway one of the greatest and most useful 
enterprises in London. 

I can not call to mind any occurrence on 
the whole journey that gave me so much pleas- 
ure as did my visit to the Exhibition of Inven- 
tions. This immense building, or rather series 
of buildings, is filled with ; tools and models of 
machinery of every kind, from a hand saw to a 
steam engine. I had the pleasure of riding in a 
car run by electricity, and it worked like a charm. 
It would not be surprising if ere long many of the 
street cars in California should use electricity for 
the motive power. Nearly every nation on the 
globe was here represented by some invention. 
Amonsf the exhibits from America I noticed alar^e 
collection of the celebrated Waltham watches. 
These were awarded the first prize. For the fee of 
one shilling, we had access to all parts of the build- 
ing. The place was literally packed with people. 
All nationalities were represented, and the confused 
murmur of voices reminded me of the tower of Babel. 



68 Around the World. 

Another place I visited with pleasure and profit 
was the Grain Exchange, in Mark Lane. This 
might properly be called the balance wheel of the 
world's wheat market. Its movements are watched 
with interest by farmers in all parts of the world. 
I there saw samples of grain from nearly all the 
grain-growing countries. As a farmer I derived 
much valuable information in regard to the quality 




The Tower of London. 



and production of different kinds of grain. Here 
could be seen buyers and sellers from every part of 
Europe. It was with pleasure and satisfaction 
that I observed that our California wheat stood the 
test, and was unsurpassed in quality by that grown 
by our neighbors across the Atlantic. I also visited 
the Crystal Palace, the Tower Water Works and the 
various parks. Buckingham Palace, the residence 



The Tower of London. 69 

of Queen Victoria, occupies the site of Buckingham 
House, purchased by George III. in 1761. 

The Tower of London is always a great attrac- 
tion to the traveler, and the place is thronged with 
people from morning until night, each paying their 
penny as the)' pass through the gate. This tower 
was, according to tradition, originally built by 
Julius Caesar; but the nucleus of the present build- 
ing was begun in 1078, by William the Conqueror, 
who erected the part now known as the White 
Tower. This tower was completed in 1098. 
Additions were made at various periods, and it 
now occupies an area of thirteen acres, surrounded 
by a moat constructed in 1 190. The new Palace of 
Westminster, built at a cost of about ^3,000,000 
on the site of the old palace, which was destroyed 
by fire in 1835, is a vast and ornate building in the 
Tudor-Gothic style, covering altogether an area 
of about eicdit acres. At the northeast corner is 
the clock tower, 320 feet in height. Above the 
dome over the central hall a spire rises to the 
height of 300 feet ; and the Victoria Tower, 340 
feet high, surmounts the royal entrance at the 
southwest corner. The central hall, which is 
entered by St. Stephen's Porch and St. Stephen's 
Hall, separates the House of Peers, which, along 
with the royal rooms, occupies the western portion 
of the building, from the House of Commons, to 
which the eastern portion is assigned. 



70 Around the World. 

The National Gallery of Paintings, in Trafalgar 
Square, contains some of the finest specimens of 
the English school of painting, besides many fine 
examples of the old masters. St. Paul's Cathedral 
is remarkable for its massive simplicity and beauti- 
ful proportions. The interior is imposing from its 
vastness. Some of the monuments of the old 
building are preserved in the crypt, where also are 
the tombs of many of England's most distinguished 
men. This cathedral is built in the form of a 
Latin cross, the length being 500 feet, and the 
breadth at the transepts 250 feet ; the dome rises 
to a height of 365 feet, or of 404 feet to the top of 
the cross by which it is surmounted, the height of 
the interior dome being 225 feet. It can only be 
equaled in grandeur by the Cathedral of Milan, or 
surpassed by St. Peter's, in Rome. The unique 
commercial position of London, and its intercourse 
with every quarter of the globe, have assisted to 
make it financially, in a more complete sense than 
it is commercially, the metropolis of the world. 
The docks present a busy scene, and there can 
always be seen a host of vessels, some at their 
moorings, others coming and going to and from all 
parts of the earth. I also visited the Bank of 
England, the largest institution of the kind in the 
world. Among the other points of interest I found 
time to visit were the famous Scotland Yards, the 
Exchange of Industry, the imposing statues of 



The Suffering Poor. 



71 



Lords Nelson and Wellington, Cleopatra's Needle, 
the operas, theatres and museums, and Madame 
Tussaud's wax-works. 

In so large a city as London, there is much suf- 
fering and distress among the poorer classes. I 
was told that a majority of the families in the tene- 
ment houses subsisted largely on bread and ale. If 




Westminster Abbey. 



I should base my opinion on the number of miser- 
able objects I saw staggering around in a state of 
intoxication, I would naturally be led to the con- 
clusion that ale or intoxicating liquor of some kind 
formed the principal diet of these poor creatures. 
Much of the crime committed can probably be 
attributed to the same source. It would require 



72 Arotind the World. 

months to see all the sights of London, or to get 
any definite idea of this immense city ; and, as my 
time was limited to a few days, I could only take in 
a few of the principal points of interest. Hotel 
bills, car fare, and general expenses were more in 
London than in any other place I visited in Europe. 
The people, with few exceptions, I found to be 
generous and obliging, and I was not so tormented 
with runners, cabmen and waiters trying to get a 
fee as in Italy and other places on the Continent. 
London alone would have repaid me for visiting 
England, 

The next place visited was Glasgow. This city, 
after London, is the most populous in Great 
Britain. It is situated on the banks of the River 
Clyde. Glasgow has been almost exclusively a 
commercial city for the last half-century, and has a 
great variety of manufacturing interests. While 
no one of the great industries occupies a position 
of predominant importance, so as to stamp itself 
as the peculiar characteristic of the town, there are 
numerous leading departments of industry which 
have long been established, and are prosecuted on 
a large scale, while a variety of special manufac- 
tures have found their principal centre in Glasgow 
and the Clyde Valley. Ship-building is the great- 
est of all the industries of Glasgow, and the posi- 
tion attained by the ship-builders of the Clyde is 
a matter of imperial consequence and national 



Ship-building on the Clyde. 



n 



pride. In some years about half the total tonnage 
built in the - United Kingdom has been launched 
from the banks of the Clyde. The work turned 
out is very diversified, but, as a rule, of the highest 
order. It includes armor-plated and other vessels 
for the Royal Navy ; mail and passenger ocean 




The Old University of Glasgow. 



steamers, for the great transatlantic and other lines; 
river steamboats, famous throughout the world for 
swiftness and elegance of appointments ; merchant 
sailing vessels ; dredging plant and hopper barges. 
With the exception of a very small proportion of 
wooden vessels, the whole of the shipping built on 
the Clyde is of iron and steel. The thoroughbred 



74 Around the World. 

cattle I saw during my visit to Glasgow were supe- 
rior to any that I have seen elsewhere. I had the 
pleasure of visiting several breeding establish- 
ments, and seeing some of the famous Clydesdale 
horses. I noticed a vast difference between these 
Scotch steeds and the horses of Northern Europe. 
My next destination is France. I journeyed by 
the way of London to Dover, which is about three 
hours' ride from the metropolis, the road traversing 
a well-cultivated and somewhat broken country. 
Before crossing the Channel, I hope the reader will 
pardon me if I digress a little, and comment again 
on the English railway system, and the highly cul- 
tivated lands I saw. Perhaps the latter struck me 
more forcibly than it otherwise would have done had 
it not been a sight in such marked contrast to what 
I have been accustomed to see at home. I believe 
I never saw an acre of land in England that was 
not well and thoroughly cultivated. I suppose this 
high state of cultivation isnecessitated by the high 
rent, which necessarily compels the tiller of the soil 
to force the land to yield to its utmost capacity. 
The snug and cozy homes, surrounded by a small 
patch of well-tilled land, all had an appearance of 
comfort and thrift. The railway tariff in England 
is rather lower than in the United States, first-class 
fare being- about two cents a mile. However in- 
convenient and uncomfortable the English railway 
system may appear to an American, it is generally 



Customs of the Country. 75 

adopted on the Continent, in India, Australia and 
Japan. For my part, I did not admire the con- 
struction of the cars ; they are coupled closely to- 
gether, and the passenger must climb in a side 
door, as there is no platform at either end of the 
car. Each car is divided into small compartments, 
capable of holding six or eight passengers. As soon 
as the train starts, the door is locked until you 
arrive at the next station. I sometimes heard peo- 
ple complain, that in case a robbery or some cr me 
was committed while the train was in motion, one 
would be at the mercy of the depredator, as there 
is no communication between the different com- 
partments. However, the passengers are not kept 
in "durance vile" for any great length of time, as, 
in this densely populated country, the distance be- 
tween stations is very short. The conductor walks 
from car to car on a narrow plank, which is only a 
foot or two above the ground. No one is allowed 
to board the train while in motion, and this rule is 
strictly enforced. 

Another custom which appeared odd to me was 
that of women acting in the capacity of bar-tend- 
ers, at railway stations, inns, or taverns. Often- 
times when stopping at a station I would see a 
half-dozen of these damsels busily engaged in deal- 
ing out liquors, coffee and sandwiches to the hungry 
and thirsty crowd. However strange this may 
appear to a traveler from the other side of the At- 



76 Around the World. 

lantic, these bar-maids are considered respectable, 
and you never see any of them under the influence 
of liquor. This seems to be one of the old and 
well-established customs of the country, probably 
made necessary by the fact that the women largely 
outnumber the men, — more so, I believe, than in 
any other country in Europe. Another point in 
their favor is that the amount of remuneration they 
expect to receive is small, and they are generally 
more reliable and attend more strictly to business 
than the men. 



From Dover to Calais. 77 



CHAPTER III. 

FRANCE, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA. 

At Dover I embarked for Calais, in France, and, 
on arriving there, for the first time realized that I 
was a stranger in a strange land. Traveling in 
Great Britain, where the English language was 
continually spoken, I felt more at home than in a 
country where on either hand I heard people talk- 
ing in an unfamiliar tongue ; and, as I had never 
been taught to par lez Frangais, not a single word 
uttered was intelligible to me. Calais is a fortress 
of the first class, and was formerly a place of great 
strength ; but it would now probably not be able 
to defend itself long against modern artillery. 
Steamers carrying the mails cross twice a day to 
Dover, and return. It is the principal landing 
place for English travelers on the Continent. In 
traveling from country to country, the first bus- 
iness I found it necessary to engage in was to have 
my money exchanged for the coin of the country I 
was traveling in, as it is almost impossible to turn 
around without spending money. I now had to 
convert my pounds, shillings and pence into francs 
and centimes ; and here I will say that I found the 



78 Around the World. 

most useful friend and companion on a journey 
like mine to be a long letter of credit. In Europe, 
Africa, India and Australia, I found English coin 
preferable to any other. In a tour around the 
world one travels more in English territory and on 
English steamers than on any other; and, as En- 
glish coin is largely circulated, and its value well 
known in the Oriental world, one is less liable to 
be swindled by money exchangers and brokers, in 
using it, than he would be if he was continu- 
ally having his money exchanged. Japan and 
the Sandwich Islands are the only countries in 
which I found American money to be the most 
desirable. 

I had no sooner landed on French soil than I 
found myself surrounded by swarms of guides, or 
runners, who all offered their services in a most 
polite manner. It was " Monsieur this," and " Mon- 
sieur that;" "May I show you the cab," "the 
hotels," "the sights," '' attend to your baggage;" 
and they even wished to hang up my hat. As 
they expect to be remunerated for the slightest 
service, it is sometimes preferable, being more 
profitable, to wait upon one's self. At times their 
officiousness became so annoying that I was 
tempted to wish the last servant out of sight. On 
my first attempt to leave Calais for Paris, I failed, 
by some mischance, to get aboard the train in time; 
and, as I saw it leaving the depot, I realized that 



Paris. 79 

the train and my baggage were gone, and that I 
was left behind. As the train was not yet fully 
under motion, I thought I would try the American 
plan of running, and jumping aboard ; but I was 
promptly stopped by a French official, who informed 
me that I must wait until the next train. He was 
very polite, however, and, after a long string of 
words, pointed to his watch and made me under- 
stand that another train would soon be along. In 
a very short time I was on another train, speeding 
swiftly along in the direction of Paris. 

After five hours' ride over a beautiful aofricul- 
tural country, I found myself in the gayest city in 
the world. I first turned my attention to my lug- 
gage, which was safely deposited in the Custom 
House. After using a mixture of several languages 
and a variety of signs, and paying a fee of one 
franc, it was handed over. I always found it more 
convenient and safer to keep in close proximity to 
my luggage. My next step was to hire an inter- 
preter; and there proved to be an abundance of 
them, rendering it unnecessary to go for them, as 
they always came to you. After a certain amount 
of bargaining and bickering, I agreed to pay mine 
six francs a day; and he, in return, agreed to show 
me all of the sights and curiosities, both ancient 
and modern, in the city of Paris. He recom- 
mended himself very highly, and said he was an 
expert in the English language, and one of the 




(80) 



Hotel Life. 81 

best guides in Paris. As a matter of fact, he 
spoke about ten per cent. English, and the balance 
French. 

He first piloted me to an hotel of his own choos- 
ing, which bore the name of Hotel de Strasbourg. 
The host was French, and so were the guests. My 
breakfast was served at eight o'clock in my room, 
lunch at one, and dinner at from seven to eight. 
We had every imaginable dainty from a horse to a 
hare ; the tables were resplendent with silver and 
glassware, the waiters were polite and attentive ; 
and the spacious dining hall, lighted by electricity, 
in the evening presented a brilliant scene. The 
waiters always expect to be "tipped," especially by 
American travelers. The cafes in the boulevards, 
I found to be one of the most interesting features 
of Paris. Here are tables strung out along the 
sidewalks the length of several blocks, where the 
Parisian men and women sit and sip their wine, 
apparently oblivious to the crowd around them. If 
one should sit down at one of these tables and call 
for coffee instead of wine, they would be served 
with black coffee in a wine-glass, and then be pro- 
vided with another glass filled with brandy to mix 
with the coffee. 

Among some of the first-class restaurants are the 

Cafe Americaine, on the Boulevard des Capucines ; 

Anglo-Americaine, Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin; and 

the Grand Hotel, near the Louvre, Hotel rates 

6 



82 Around the World. 

vary from one franc and fifty centimes to five francs, 
according to the bill of fare and hour of meals. It 
is generally well to make a bargain beforehand 
with landlords, guides and cabmen, as there seems 
to be a tendency among all of them to fleece 
strangers, especially Americans. The principal 
mode of traveling between different portions of the 
city is by cabs, omnibuses and tramways. The 
tops of the coaches have comfortable seats, and 
about as many passengers ride outside as inside. 
The tramway fare is thirty centimes, or six cents 
for an inside fare, and about half that amount for 
an outside fare. 

The grandest of all the grand sights which I saw 
in Paris was the Palace of the Louvre. This is 
occupied by the richest museum in the city. On 
the ground floor are museums of ancient sculpture. 
There can be seen such treasures as the Venus of 
Milo and the Pallas of Velletre, the most beautiful 
of all statues of Minerva. Special rooms are de- 
voted to early Christian monuments and Jewish 
antiquities. On the first floor there is a magnifi- 
cent collection of pictures, furniture, drawings, pot- 
tery, terra-cotta ware ; as well as objects in bronze, 
glass and ivory. The second floor accommodates 
the naval museum, part of the French school of 
painting, and rooms for the study of Egyptian 
papyrus-rolls. The Luxembourg Palace has a free 
museum containing one of the finest art collections 




vy K > 



(83) 



84 Around the World. 

in France, and the grounds, comprising eighty-five 
acres, are laid out in beautiful gardens. 

Paris has about sixty theatres, of which the 
Grand Opera House, or National Academy of 
Music and Dancing, is the largest and most beau- 
tiful. This magnificent structure covers two and 
three-fourths acres, and is the finest in the world. 
The next place I had my guide point out to me 
was the Place de la Concorde. This occupies 
rather an elevated situation, and Paris can be seen 
in almost every direction. The chief point of 
interest in the square is eight imposing statues 
representing the chief towns of France. From the 
centre, where stands the Cleopatra Needle, many 
of the most imposing edifices of Paris can be seen. 
One has a fine view of the Chamber of Deputies, 
the Madeleine and the River Seine. The Palace 
of Trocadero, which was built for the exhibition of 
1878, also occupies an elevation on the right bank 
of the Seine. The central rotunda contains the 
largest music hall in Paris, and a colossal organ. 
It will hold 15,000 auditors. An exceedingly fine 
view of the city and the suburbs can be had from 
the dome. 

The Champs-Elysees is an attractive promenade, 
lined with elm and lime trees. The Elysees Palace, 
in the Champs-Elysees, is a vast edifice, built in 
modern style, and is the residence of the President 
of the French Republic. The Palais Royal is 




(85) 



86 Around the World. 

also a favorite place of resort, both for the Parisian 
and the tourist. The court and square are lined 
with shops, which present a most brilliant display 
in jewelry and every variety of trinkets. At night 
these arcades are a blaze of light, and presented 
one of the most magnificent sights of my whole 
journey. 

My guide now, for a change of scene, piloted me 
across the River Seine. This beautiful river flows 
for seven miles through Paris, and, as it enters and 
as it leaves the city, it is crossed by a viaduct, used 
by the circular railway and by ordinary traffic. 
That of Point de Jour has two stories of arches. 
Two bridges, the Pont des Arts and the Passerelle 
de Passy, are for foot passengers only, all the others 
beingf used for carriages as well. The most fa- 
mous of all these bridges is the Pont Neuf, the 
two portions of which rest on the extremity of the 
island called La Cite, where the river is at its wid- 
est (961 feet). On the embankment below Pont 
Neuf stands the statue of Henry IV. Between 
La Cite and the left bank the width of the lesser 
channel is reduced to 161 feet. La Cite also com- 
municates with the right bank by the bridges of 
Notre Dame and Au Change ; with the left bank, 
by that of Archeveche, the so-called Pont au 
Double, the Petit Pont and the Pont St. Michel. 
The banks of the Seine are lined with palaces and 
mansions, the water is dotted with boats of every 



Napoleon — Admiral C our bet. &*t 

description, and its numerous bridges are con- 
stantly thronged with people. 

I visited the tomb of the first Napoleon. This 
grand memorial is placed in the Church of the In- 
valides ; a stately dome is erected over the sarcoph- 
agus which contains his remains, and over the 
entrance is this inscription (taken from his will) : 
u It is my wish that my ashes may repose on the 
banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French peo- 
ple, whom I have loved so well." In various parts 
of the city there are magnificent statues represent- 
ing Napoleon on horseback. 

While in Paris I attended the funeral services of 
Admiral Courbet, who died in China, and whose re- 
mains were brought to Paris for burial. The 
funeral was almost as imposing as that of General 
Grant, which I had attended in New York City. 
In fact, this Admiral was almost as famous in 
France as General Grant was in America. One of 
his latest deeds of prowess in the French Navy 
was to sink eleven ships in the China Sea in about 
as many minutes. In return for this friendly act 
the Emperor of China offered a reward of $100 
for the head of every Frenchman sent him. The 
majority of my readers will call to mind the brief 
Franco-China conflict that occurred a few years 
ago. Since then travel in the interior of China 
has been considered unsafe for Europeans, espe- 
cially Frenchmen. 



88 Around the World. 

The largest and finest religious building in Paris 
is the Cathedral of Notre Dame. The attractions 
and places of interest worthy of attention are so 
numerous that it would require more time than I 
had then to see, or have now to describe, them. I 
certainly saw people dressed more elegantly and in 
more fashionable attire than I ever saw before or 
since. One of the happiest thoughts of my visit 
to this great city was that there seemed to be more 
wealth and less poverty than in any other city 
visited by me. Considering the fact that I was a 
stranger to both the customs and the language of 
the French people, my stay in Paris was a very 
enjoyable one, and I hope, some day in the near 
future, to revisit this charming city. I agree with 
other travelers, that the Parisians deserve the repu- 
tation they have long enjoyed of being the politest, 
gayest and most fashionable people in the world. 

On leaving Paris, I boarded the cars for Berne, 
in Switzerland. On this route we passed many 
towns and cities. We journeyed over a rolling 
country ; the soil was fertile, and vegetation every- 
where luxuriant. The land was planted principally 
to grape-vines and vegetables, and had very much 
the appearance of a garden. No matter in what 
direction you travel in France, you find a lovely 
country, a pleasant climate and a hospitable and 
polite people. On every side can be seen evidence 
of the thrift and industry of the French people, — 



Switzerland. 89 

well cultivated fields and cozy and comfortable 
homes. 

Arriving at the end of the French Division, we 
found ourselves at the city of Wilhausen, which is 
near the border line between France and Switzer- 
land. Continuing our journey over a beautiful 
country, we arrived at the city of Basel, the second 
largest city in Switzerland, situated on the banks 
of the Rhine. Its inhabitants are largely engaged 
in the manufacture of silk 

Switzerland is chiefly a land of mountains, and 
is one of the most remarkable countries on the 
globe for its magnificent and picturesque scenery. 
The higher Alps rise to a distance of from 8,000 to 
15,000 feet above the level of the sea, and are cov- 
ered with perpetual snow. The glaciers of Switz- 
erland are the reservoirs which feed some of the 
largest rivers of Western Europe. No country 
possesses greater interest for geologists. To the 
tourist it presents a great abundance of natural 
curiosities. There are many points of view 
whence the semicircular array of Alpine peaks 
presented at once to the eye, extends for more than 
a hundred and twenty miles, and comprises between 
two and three hundred distinct summits capped 
with snow, and bristling with bare rocks. Of the 
heights commanding such Alpine panoramas, the 
Righi is probably the finest, as it certainly is one 
of the most accessible. 



90 Around the World. 

Switzerland has numerous waterfalls. The fall 
of the Rhine deserves the first rank on account of 
the volume of water ; but it is rather a cascade 
than a cataract, as it lacks height. There are 
many other celebrated falls. The principal and 
most interesting of the Swiss Alpine passes are 
the Simplon, the St. Gothard, the Splugen and the 
Bernardin, both as regards their scenery and the 
magnificent and skillfully constructed carriage 
roads which have been made over them. Switzer- 
land contains a considerable number of lakes, 
among the most important of which are Lakes 
Geneva, Lucerne and Zurich. In many places 
we see the land cultivated clear to the hill-tops. 
The mountain side is dotted with cottages, and one 
is almost inclined to wonder that the houses built 
upon these steep slopes do not roll off into the 
gulch below. 

On August 27 we arrived at Berne, the third city 
in size, and the capital of Switzerland. It is sur- 
rounded by vineyards, and has a mild, balmy cli- 
mate and a rich soil. Berne is an old city, and its 
architecture is certainly odd as well as old. The 
houses are chiefly constructed of stone or granite, 
as this is a region of quarries, and this material is 
both cheap and plentiful. Many of the houses 
have broad porches which project over the sidewalk 
below. This gives the streets, which are narrow, 
a somewhat gloomy appearance. One of the chief 



Berne — Aar. 91 

attractions of the city is the number of playing 
fountains. These are ornamented with bears' 
heads and various other figures. Berne is also 
quite a manufacturing centre, and a large number 
of watches and toys are manufactured here. I 
visited several establishments, and found the greater 
proportion of the operatives to be women. There 
are also several large mills driven with water- 
power derived from the. River Aar. This swiftly 
flowing stream runs through the lower portion of 
the city. 

The people chiefly spoke the German language. 
This language I found easier to understand without 
an interpreter than any other. The people were 
apparently kind hearted and good humored ; the 
hotel bills and servants' fees, the most moderate of 
any place on the Continent. Five francs, or one 
dollar, per day, is all the first-class hotels charge. 
Here, again, I saw women acting as bar-keepers, 
porters and waiters in the public houses. On 
many occasions they have come into my room at 
dawn of day, got my shoes, and given them a fine 
polishing. It was something of a novelty to me 
to have my shoes blacked by a rosy-cheeked 
maiden. I also visited Aar, another interesting 
city. It is surrounded by grand and picturesque 
scenery. This ended my first visit to Switzerland, 
the playground of Europe. I returned, however, 
three months later, after I had made the circuit of 



92 Around the World. 

the Continent. The incidents of that visit to this 
interesting republic I will briefly mention in another 
chapter. 

LETTER FROM SWITZERLAND. 

Special Correspondence Modesto Herald. 

Berne, Switzerland, Sept. i, 1885. 

This time I will only have room to give you a glimpse of the outline of 
my trip since I left Modesto. I have been in constant motion from rail to 
steamer, and from steamer to rail, until I have traveled over nine thousand 
miles, and I have only made a good beginning of my tour around the globe 

I steamed out of the Golden Gate on the 27th of July for Portland, Oregon, 
800 miles on that coast. The Pacific was not pacific, as was noticed by so 
many passengers feeding the fishes, — myself included. Portland, twelve 
miles above the mouth of the Willamette River, is a stirring city of 40,000 
inhabitants. Ships are seen along the wharves loading wheat for Europe. 

From Portland I left by the express train for St. Paul, on the Northern 
Pacific Railroad, and soon found myself hurried over the Cascade Mountains 
into Eastern Oregon. Cascades along the Columbia River have the grandest 
scenery in the West. At Wallula Junction I crossed the boundary line into 
Washington Territory, where I traveled for 100 miles ; but, after leaving the 
Snake River, the land seemed unimproved and barren of vegetation until I 
got to the Idaho line. Spokane Falls is the largest and one of the most 
important places in Washington Territory. I crossed the corner of Idaho 
for eighty miles, and found it thickly timbered, and adapted more for grazing 
than grain growing. We next moved into Montana, the finest stock 
country on the Northern Pacific Railroad. At Heron we entered the slopes 
of the Rocky Mountains, and the scenery was imposing when viewing those 
towering peaks and glittering streams. Helena, the capital, is a flourishing 
city of 10,000 inhabitants, located near the headwaters of the Missouri 
River, and surrounded by mountains pointing to the skies. East of Helena 
I was much impressed with the extensive grazing valleys, green meadows 
and gravelly hills. At Livingston we left the main line for Yellowstone 
Park. Here I met tourists from many parts of the globe, investigating the 
grandest pyramidic sights in the world. Even here in Switzerland I haven't 
seen anything to compare with it. I now resume my journey on the main 
line. Glendive, an important trading post, is the last station in sight after 
traveling 800 miles, — the extreme length of Montana. The iron horse has 
now sent me across the boundary line into Dakota. Medora is the first sta- 



Letter from Switzerland. 93 

tion in sight from here for fifty miles. The soil is of all varieties and colors, 
called the bad lands, and presents an interesting appearance to sight-seers. 

The next important station we passed was Dickson, located in a fine 
grazing region. It also had the appearance of a good game region, from 
the variety of stuffed deer and wolves in sight and for sale at the depot. On 
the east bank of the Missouri stands Bismarck, the capital of Dakota. 
From here on to the Minnesota line, Dakota made a favorable change to a 
level, productive farming country, but barren of timber along the line. The 
main attraction in Dakota was the large Dalrymple farm, with 75,000 acres 
under cultivation. This reminded me of our extensive farming in California, 
— the garden-spot of the earth, on account of her even climate and natural 
resources. Moorhead, on the east bank of the Mississippi, was the first 
glimpse of Minnesota, after traveling 350 miles through Dakota. This 
great green State showed signs of wealth and prosperity by the many 
improved farms, especially in the Red River Valley ; and, were it not for its 
high latitude, Minnesota would equal any State in the Union. 

I soon found myself in Minneapolis, the Queen City of the Northwest, 
with a population of 125,000, and the largest milling point in the world. St. 
Paul, the same size as Minneapolis, is also a great city, with its large whole- 
sale houses, and has the largest hotels north of Chicago. 

From here I resumed my journey to Wisconsin, where I made a brief 
stay among old friends. Thence to New York City, via Washington City and 
Philadelphia, where I inspected the United States Mint, and the seat of our 
government. I arrived in New York August 8, in time to take a part in Gen- 
eral Grant's funeral procession, — the most imposing affair of the kind ever 
known in America. After looking over New York, with its million and a 
half inhabitants, and thickly planted with houses for twelve miles, from 
Harlem River to Castle Garden, I left the harbor on the nth of August, on 
board the steamship Wisconsin, for Queenstown, with about 200 fellow- 
passengers of different nationalities, — all going to Europe to enjoy the bene- 
fits of the portions they had accumulated in America. After eleven days, in 
which we had journeyed 3,090 miles over the stormy Atlantic, I found 
myself safely landed in the Old World. Since that I have visited Ireland, 
England and France. Have spent the most of my time in London and 
Paris ; but I am now among the lofty mountains of Switzerland. From here 
I am going to Vienna, and so on until I have been over the whole Continent 
of Europe. 

Notwithstanding the difficulties I have met with in contending with 
strange tongues, and being a stranger in strange lands, I have enjoyed my 
trip to the fullest extent, and all the objects of interest in this realm I will 
speak of more particularly in my next. Qsmun Johnson, 



94 Around the World. 

I next visited Bavaria. Arriving at Boden See, 
a beautiful lake situated between Switzerland and 
Bavaria, I embarked on one of the small steamers 
that traverse the lake. This boat was crowded 
with tourists of various nationalities, all intent on 
pleasure and sight-seeing. On this boat I partici- 
pated in one of the biggest dinners I had spread 
before me while in Europe ; it consisted of thirteen 
courses, and would have satisfied the most fastid- 
ious epicure. After steaming across the Boden 
See, I landed in Lindau, a beautiful pleasure resort, 
surrounded, on one side, by picturesque mountain 
scenery, and, on the other, by the waters of the 
lovely lake. The streets are crooked and narrow, 
and the inhabitants slow-going and easy. The low 
stone buildings have an ancient appearance. 

After a brief stay in Bavaria I made preparations 
to visit Austria. After passing the town of Blu- 
dens, we began to gradually ascend a lofty range 
of the Alps, where the scenery, for sublimity and 
grandeur, exceeded anything I have seen. Noth- 
ing in the Sierra Nevadas or Rocky Mountains can 
begin to compare with it. Among the higher 
peaks from which we obtained a fine view were 
Katzencliff, Davena and Raggler. These snow- 
capped peaks tower for thousands of feet above the 
level of the sea. As the train wound its way up 
the steep and narrow grade, a glance out of the 
car window almost made one shiver ; on every side 



Austria. 95 

were deep gulches, steep cliffs and crags. The 
engineering on this road is a magnificent piece of 
work. Tunnels are numerous, and many of them 
difficult to construct. The longest one, called 
Alberg, requires twenty minutes to pass through. 

Every little while we would pass small patches 
of land cultivated by the industrious peasants, who 
know nothing else but work. Here the women 
work in the field, and do all kinds of manual labor. 
By close economy and untiring industry these poor 
people manage to exist. One suit of homespun 
clothes for Sunday wear, is supposed to last a man 
a lifetime. They are always worn on holidays and 
on all ceremonious occasions, when they are deco- 
rated with ancient jewelry which has been handed 
down from generation to generation. 

We soon arrived at Innsbruck, where we changed 
cars for Kufstein and Salzburg, where the road 
skirted the shore of a little lake, partly enclosed by 
rugged hills. From here the road traverses the 
level valleys of Austria, which seemed to be devoted 
to agriculture. I often saw women plowing in the 
field with a team composed of a horse, steer and 
cow. The grain is cut and threshed principally 
with hand tools. Very little machinery is used or 
seen in these districts, and the farms in these 
tucked-up kingdoms of Europe have the appear- 
ance of paddocks to one acquainted with the vast 
grain fields of California, where machinery is used 



96 Around the World. 

exclusively in the cultivation of the soil and the 
harvesting of the crops. Here in the whole realm 
main strength and stupidity seemed to be the mo- 
tive power. 

I arrived in Vienna on September 5. It is a dis- 
tance of 600 English miles from Paris to this city. 
I must confess that it was a rather uncomfortable 
journey. The cars were constructed on the 
English plan, and I never quite enjoyed being 
locked up in these small compartments, with three 
or four strangers in such close proximity. I have 
already praised the American system, which I con- 
sider the most comfortable in the world. On the 
other hand, the European conductor is a much 
more civil individual than his American contem- 
porary; he will answer questions freely and politely, 
and will talk to a stranger like any other mortal. 
On the other side of the Atlantic, the average con- 
ductor prides himself on his grufTness and individu- 
ality. 

Vienna, one of the most interesting and enter- 
prising cities in Europe, is situated in a fertile 
plain on the southernmost branch of the Danube. 
The great bulk of the population consists of Ger- 
man Roman Catholics ; but all nationalities and 
denominations are represented. Vienna is divided 
into the old city, which is nearly encircled, and 
about three miles in circumference, and the new 
city, consisting of thirty-four suburbs. The old 



Vienna. 97 

city was, up to 1858, surrounded by a deep fosse, 
and high walls with projecting bastions, which, in 
later times, served as terrace walks ; but these forti- 
fications have, in a great measure, long since been 
filled up or leveled, thus enlarging the glacis, a 
broad and pleasant esplanade, by which they were 
encircled, and separated from the suburbs. Of the 
numerous gates which formerly led from the old 
city to the suburbs, the Burgthor (castle or palace 
gate) is justly celebrated. 

In the arrangement of its streets, Vienna has 
been compared to a spider's web, the principal 
thoroughfares radiating from a central point near 
the Cathedral of St. Stephen, to the bastions 
across the glacis, and through the suburbs to the 
outer lines, and being intersected by numerous 
minor streets and alleys. Contrary to the general 
rule in modern cities, the old part of the town is 
the more fashionable of the two. It has narrow 
streets, mostly lined with lofty houses, but also 
some splendid squares, and contains the oldest 
churches and the palaces of the emperor and the 
highest nobility. 

The Hofplatz (court square) has a colossal 
statue of the Virgin, and two fountains ; the Joseph- 
platz, an equestrian statue of the Emperor Joseph 
I. The square called Freiung contains a beautiful 
fountain with five bronze figures representing Aus- 
tria and her four principal rivers. The Graben, 

7 



98 Arottnd the World. 

near the centre of the city, has, among other orna- 
ments, a beautiful column in honor of the Trinity. 
The Graben and the Kohlmarkt, a street leading 
from it to the imperial palace, contains the finest 
shops. The Imperial Library, a handsome build- 
ing on the Josephplatz, contains upward of 350,000 
volumes, and about 300,000 engravings, the largest 
and finest collection of the kind in the world. It 
also contains numerous and valuable curiosities. 

The most conspicuous and most interesting 
church in Vienna is the Cathedral of St. Stephen, 
considered by many to be the finest specimen of 
Gothic architecture on the globe. It was begun 
five centuries aeo ; but the two turrets flanking the 
west portal, called the Giant gate, are the remains 
of a church built two hundred years earlier. The 
length of the cathedral is 345 feet, its breadth 230 
feet. Its steeple is a masterpiece of architecture, 
and is 444 feet high. The largest bell, cast from 
hundreds of cannon taken from the besieging 
Turks in 1683, weighs 380 hundred weight. The 
view from the steeple extends over the Danube, 
and many old battle-fields, also a number of pal- 
aces, gardens and bathing establishments. 

Vienna has extensive manufactories. I visited 
several of them, including the extensive fan fac- 
tory carried on by Mr. Grunbaum, brother of our 
Modesto merchant, B. Grunbaum. Here they em- 
ployed 300 operatives, men and women, who were 



Life in Vienna. 99 

busily engaged in manufacturing fancy fans, which 
are exported to all parts of the world. I am much 
indebted to Mr. Grunbaum for his kindness in 
piloting me through the bustling city, and pointing 
out many of the principal points of interest, among 
others the Grand Opera House, erected in place of 
the one burned down seven years ago. The ma- 
jority of my readers will remember when the news 
of this terrible catastrophe was telegraphed to all 
parts of the world, and of the sad fate of the 
thousands of people who were buried in its ashes. 

We next visited the museum. This contains 
seven apartments, three of which are filled with 
ancient armor. The other departments embrace 
old paintings, curiosities of nature and art, carv- 
ings, trinkets, remarkable dresses, and many ob- 
jects of historical interest. Had I not so lately 
visited the Louvre, in Paris, I should have been 
all the more struck with admiration in viewing this 
wonderful collection of curiosities, relics and mag- 
nificent works of art. 

The dancing, ball and concert rooms of Vienna, 
as well as other places of amusement, are very 
numerous and well attended, the inhabitants being 
distinguished by a cheerful and jovial disposition 
above those of all other capitals of Europe. The 
coffee houses are spacious, and generally thronged. 
The great promenades are the Glacis, the Volks- 
garten (people's garden), the Augarten, Briget- 



100 Around the World. 

tenau, and especially the Prater, a natural park on 
a series of low islands formed by the arms of the 
Danube. The Prater, especially on fete days, 
with its coffee houses, panorama, circus, swings, 
jugglers, rustic kitchens, long rows of tables and 
benches, trains of carriages, and its laughing, 
drinking and dancing multitudes in all the various 
national costumes of the Austrian Empire, is the 
most characteristic part of the capital. There are 
also fashionable cafes that are frequented by the 
aristocracy and nobility, who never mix with the 
common people. Among other features of inter- 
est that I had pointed out to me were the Palace 
of Justice and the House of Parliament. 

During my brief stay in Vienna I made the 
Wienberger Hotel my headquarters, where I was 
charged five guldens, or two dollars, per day. 

The narrow streets are thronged with people all 
day long. I frequently saw a woman and a dog 
side by side pulling a loaded wagon together. The 
dog would be in regular harness, and the woman 
would wear a shoulder strap. This was a common 
sight, even in the most fashionable streets, and 
never seemed to attract attention except from a 
stranger like myself. In no other city did I see a 
wider contrast between the rich and the poor. The 
former occupy costly palaces surrounded by all 
that luxury and wealth can give, while the latter 
are clothed in rags, and perform all kinds of menial 



Trip 07i the Danube. 101 

labor. The open market presents a scene of much 
interest. Here hundreds of women are daily en- 
gaged in buying and selling all kinds of produce. 
These women are certainly industrious, but, un- 
like the Parisians, can make no pretensions to 
feminine beauty. 

In company with some other tourists, I had a 
pleasant ride on the Danube, and we had a fine 
opportunity for viewing the city, which borders the 
stream for several miles. 



102 Arotmd the World. 



CHAPTER IV. 

GERMANY AND DENMARK. 

I now bade farewell to the Austrian capital, and 
set out for Berlin, a distance of ninety German, or 
about 350 English, miles. The route I traversed 
took me through Bohemia and Saxony. Bohemia 
is a kingdom of the Austrian Empire, and has a 
population of between five and six millions. We 
traveled through a level and fertile valley, where 
the rank vegetation and the thrifty growth of its 
diversified crops bore evidence to the richness of 
the soil. As usual, the women were everywhere 
industriously laboring in the fields, where they 
could be seen with some implement in hand, some 
using the scythe, the sickle or the pruning knife, 
while others were engaged in hauling hay or 
plowing. It was no longer a matter of surprise 
to see women and men working together doing 
the work that in America is supposed to belong 
to the men exclusively. I understand, however, 
that in these countries this custom is a matter of 
necessity. 

The mineral springs of Bohemia are justly fa- 
mous. The industries of the kingdom are highly 



Dresden. 103 

developed in various directions. Most important 
of all is the manufacture of woolen goods, princi- 
pally carried on at Reichenburg and in the neigh- 
borhood of that city. The cotton manufacture is 
also extensively prosecuted in the same district, 
and at Rumburg and other places linen stuffs are 
largely produced. Bohemian glass has been cele- 
brated for centuries, and is still exported to all 
parts of Europe. The climate is healthful, but 
varies considerably in different districts. 

As many of the kingdoms of Europe are smaller 
than an ordinary county in California, it takes very 
little time to travel from one to the other; conse- 
quently I was soon in Saxony. This is the third 
constituent of Germany in point of population, 
and the fifth in point of area. Saxony is one of 
the most fertile parts of Germany. In regard to 
the productive occupation of its soil, it stands 
among the most advanced nations in the world. It 
also claims to be one of the most highly educated 
countries in Europe. Its schools and universities 
were founded among the earliest in Germany, and 
education is compulsory. 

Dresden, the capital, is situated in a beautiful 
and richly cultivated valley on both sides of the 
Elbe. It is approached on almost every side by 
avenues of trees, and the distance is bounded by 
gentle eminences covered with plantations and 
vineyards. On account of its delightful situation 




(104) 



Berlin. 105 

and the many objects of interest it contains, it is 
often called the l< German Florence." Dresden 
owes a large part of its fame to its extensive artis- 
tic, literary and scientific collections. Among the 
chief branches of industry are manufactures in gold 
and silver, straw plait, scientific and musical instru- 
ments, artificial flowers and painter's canvas. 
There are several large breweries, a considerable 
corn trade is carried on, and there is an extensive 
traffic in books and objects of art. 

At Dresden I met a great many tourists from 
America, also quite a number of Americans who 
reside here. It was a pleasure and a relief to be 
ab^e to converse in my own familiar tongue. For 
weeks I had been laboring with a foreign language, 
and had been obliged to depend on an interpreter. 
As one was not always at hand, and as they gen- 
erally understood just about enough English to 
enable them to fleece a traveler, I labored under 
many disadvantages. 

My next stopping place was Berlin, the capital 
of Prussia, and since 1871 the metropolis of the 
German Empire. It is situated on both sides of 
the River Spree, and is built on what was 
originally in part a sandy, and in part a marshy, 
district. By its canals it has direct communication 
with the Oder River. This river, with its canals 
and branches, is crossed by about fifty bridges, 
very few of which have any claim to architectural 



106 Around the World. 

beauty. Among - these latter may be mentioned 
the Schlossbriicke, which was built in the years 1822, 
1823 and 1824. It has eight colossal figures of 
white marble, representing the different stages of a 
warrior's career. These statues are for the most 
part of high artistic merit; they stand on granite 
pedestals. The Kurfiirstenbriicke is another bridge 
which merits notice on account of the equestrian 
bronze statue of the Great Elector, by which it is 
adorned. 

Berlin covers an area of about twenty-five Eng- 
lish square miles, and now takes its place as the 
third greatest city of Europe, surpassed only by 
London and Paris. In secular buildings, Berlin is 
very rich. It differs, however, from all other capi- 
tals, in this respect : that, with the exception of 
the castle, a large building enclosing two courts 
and containing more than 600 rooms, and which 
dates its origin back to the sixteenth century, all 
of its public buildings are comparatively modern, 
dating, in their present form, from the eighteenth 
and nineteenth centuries. The public buildings 
and monuments which render it famous, date, al- 
most without exception, from 18 14, the close of the 
great conflict with Napoleon I. Its churches are 
the structures which lay claim to the highest 
antiquity, four of them dating from the thirteenth 
and fourteenth centuries. But in respect to 
churches, both in their number and beauty, Berlin 




The Siegessaule. 
(107) 



108 Around the World. 

is, relatively speaking, probably the poorest of the 
capitals of Christendom. 

Up to a very recent date, Berlin was a walled 
city. Those of its nineteen gates which still 
remain have only an historical or architectural 
interest. The principal of these is the Branden- 
burg gate, which is 201 feet broad and nearly sixty- 
five feet in height. It is supported by twelve 
Doric columns, each forty-four feet high, and sur- 
mounted by a Car of Victory, which, taken by 
Napoleon I. to Paris in 1807, was brought back by 
the Prussians in 18 14. The streets, about 520 in 
number, are, with the exception of the districts in 
the most ancient part of the city, long, straight and 
wide, and lined with high houses; for the old typi- 
cal Berlin house, with its ground and first floor, is 
fast disappearing. 

Among the most imposing structures are the 
Admiralty, the upper house of the Prussian 
Legislature, the Imperial Parliament, the royal 
palaces, the Jewish synagogue, the Opera and the 
Royal Museums. The public buildings are superior 
to those in most cities of Europe. Berlin possesses 
eight museums, in addition to the Royal Museum 
and the National Gallery. The Royal Museums 
are the old and the new museums. The former is 
the most imposing building in Berlin. The new 
museum is connected with the old by a covered 
corridor. In its interior arrangements and decora- 



Public Monuments. 109 

tions, it is undoubtedly the most splendid structure 
in the city. The National Gallery is an elegant 
building, situated between the new museum and 
the Spree, and is intended to receive the collection 
of modern paintings, now exhibited provisionally 
in the apartment of the Academy. 

The public monuments are the equestrian statues 
of the Great Elector on the Large Briicke ; the 
celebrated statue of Frederick the Great, probably 
the grandest monument in Europe, opposite the 
emperor's palace, Unter den Linden; and the 
statue of Frederick William III. in the Lust Garten. 
On the Kreuzberg, the highest spot in the neigh- 
borhood of Berlin, a Gothic monument in bronze 
was erected by Frederick William III. to commem- 
orate the victories of 1813 and 181 5, and in the 
Konigsplatz the present Emperor has erected a 
Column of Victory in honor of the triumphs of 
1864, 1866 and 1870. This monument rises to the 
height of 197 feet, the gilded figure of Victory 
on top being forty feet high. 

Next to Leipsic, Berlin is the largest publishing 
centre in Germany. It is not only a centre of 
intelligence, but is also an important centre of man- 
ufactures and trade. Its trade and manufactures 
seem to be at present in a transitory state ; old 
branches are dying, and new ones springing into 
existence. 

I was much pleased with my sojourn in Ger- 




Emperor Wilhelm. 
(110) 



The Emperor William. Ill 

many. I found the people, as a rule, polite and 
hospitable. They appeared to be much interested 
in American travelers. As a rule, there seemed to 
be less extortion practiced in Germany than in any 
other country I visited. The tramway fare was a 
trifling sum ; and the fee to porters, guides and 
hackmen, and the railway fare throughout the 
whole German empire, the most reasonable on the 
Continent. Among the leading hotels are the 
Auburn and Chalsber Houses, where the traveler 
can have his meals served either on the European 
or American plan. One can fare well for eight 
marks, or about $1.75, per day. 

I left Berlin, September 11, for Hamburg. My 
route lay over a level country, the soil of which 
seemed to be of a swampy and marshy character. 
The principal resources of this section seemed to 
be hay-making, turf-digging and turf-drying. The 
turf is largely used for fuel, on account of the 
scarcity of timber in this part of Germany. Of 
course, the women had a hand in both industries, 
and many of them could be seen busily engaged in 
piling turf or mowing hay. 

At Wiirtemberg, half way between Berlin and 
Hamburg, I had the pleasure of seeing the vener- 
able Emperor William, the first crowned head I 
had, up to this time, had the pleasure of seeing 
while in Europe, but far from being the last. 
Thousands of people were awaiting the arrival of 



112 Around the World. 

the Emperor, The militia was out in full force 
ready to salute him. The gorgeous decoration of 
the station, the drilling, the thunder of artillery, the 
holiday attire of the people, all helped to make this 
one of the most brilliant and striking incidents of 
my journey through Prussia. 

A few hours later I found myself in the city of 
Hamburg, one of the most remarkable cities of 
Germany, and, in fact, of Europe, ranking, as it 
does, as the first of all the seats of commerce on 
the Continent. It is situated on the right bank of 
the northern branch of the River Elbe, about 
ninety-three miles from the mouth of that river, 
just where it is joined by the Alster and the Bille. 

The oldest portion of the city is that which lies 
to the east of the Alster ; to the west lies the new 
town. The old town lies low, and is traversed by a 
great number of narrow canals, or "fleets," which 
add considerably to the picturesqueness of the 
meaner quarters, and serve as convenient channels 
for the transportation of goods. They generally 
form what may be called the back streets, and they 
are bordered by warehouses, cellars and the lower 
classes of dwelling houses. As they are subject to 
the ebb and flow of the Elbe, at certain times they 
run quite dry, and afford a field of operation for a 
certain class who wander the oozy channel to pick 
up any articles of value. At other times they are 
filled from fifteen to twenty feet above their ordi- 



Hamburg. 113 

nary level. As soon as the telegram at Cuxhaven 
announces high tide, three shots are fired from the 
stintfung, at the harbor, to warn the inhabitants 
of the " fleets ;" and, if the progress of the tide up 
the river gives indication of danger, three other 
shots are fired to add emphasis to the warning. 
Then the dwellers on the lower levels make a rapid 
escape with their property. At the time of the 
equinoxes the inundation may be repeated for sev- 
eral days in succession ; but, when all is over, the 
people return like rats to their oozy and dripping 
abodes. In fine contrast to the dull and dismal 
fleets, is the bright and handsome appearance of the 
Inner Alsten, which is enclosed on three sides by 
handsome rows of buildings. 

In the extent of its commerce, Hamburg ranks 
among European ports immediately after London, 
Liverpool and Glasgow. The river and harbor 
are continually crowded with vessels of all descrip- 
tions, from the smallest river craft to the largest 
ocean steamer. 

Of the many churches in Hamburg, St. Peters, 
St. Michaels, St. Nicholas and the Dutch Reformed 
Church are among the largest, and probably the 
most worthy of note. The Church of St. Nicho- 
las is remarkable, more especially for its tower, 
which rises to a height of 473 feet. Both interior 
and exterior are elaborately adorned with sculp- 
tures. St. Michaels has a tower which almost 



114 Around the World. 

rivals that of St. Nicholas, as it rises to a height of 
428 feet. It surpasses all the other churches of 
Hamburg, being 229 feet long and 179 feet broad, 
and produces a fine effect by the colossal propor- 
tions of its four principal pillars. Among other 
buildings of interest are the Hamburg Bank, the 
Grand Opera House and the Museum. The prin- 
cipal hotels are the Hamburger Hoff and Hotel 
Europe. Here accommodations can be had in 
thorough European style, and one can live 
luxuriously for the moderate amount of eight 
marks per day. 

An extended stroll over the city left the impres- 
sion upon my mind that it did not deserve much of 
a reputation for either cleanliness or godliness. I 
was told that vice and wickedness prevail in Ham- 
burg to a greater extent than in any other city of 
the same size in Europe. A noticeable feature of 
Hamburg is the cheap prices which seem to prevail 
in every branch of business. A suit of clothes 
that would cost fifty dollars in San Francisco, 
could be bought for twenty here. 

After visiting Bremen, an important seaport 
within a short distance of Hamburg-, I started for 
Copenhagen, traveling by the way of Kiel, a city 
with a population of about 50,000. It is pictur- 
esquely situated at the southern end of Kielov 
Fohrde, about sixty-six miles northeast of Ham- 
burg by rail. Kiel is the most important naval 



The Baltic — Denmark. 115 

harbor of Germany, and the station of the German 
Baltic fleet, and the port and its approaches are 
very strongly fortified. The safety and excellence 
of Kiel harbor, whose only drawback is that it is 
frozen in winter, have made the town one of the 
principal ports of the Baltic. Here I embarked 
for Korsor, in Denmark, a distance of eighteen 
German, or seventy-two English, miles. 

Since landing in the Old World, I had been con- 
stantly in motion, endeavoring to see all that was 
worth seeing, and had traveled by all the different 
modes of transit the various countries afforded. 
As we, steamed out of the harbor of Kiel I watched 
the fast-receding German shore with something 
akin to regret ; for I had spent several very pleas- 
ant weeks among the German people. The 
knowledge I had acquired of their language I 
found afterward to be of great benefit to me when 
traveling in the German settlements in Asia. 

After a few hours' sailing over the boisterous 
Baltic, we anchored at Korsor, and I was soon 
treading on Danish soil. The first thing was to go 
through the regular custom-house formality of 
having my baggage searched by its officers, to see 
if it might by any possibility contain dynamite, or 
some article on which a duty might be levied. Be- 
fore starting out in quest of new scenes I was 
obliged to hunt up a money broker, and provide 
myself with the coin of the country For each 



116 Around the World. 

English pound, I obtained eighteen cronor, or 
crowns, which was equivalent to five dollars in 
United States gold coin. This would go twice as 
far here as the same amount in the United States. 

The coasts of Denmark are generally low and 
sandy, and the whole western shore of Jutland is a 
succession of sand ridges and shallow lagoons, very 
dangerous to shipping. On the eastern side the 
coast is not so inhospitable. On the contrary, 
there are several excellent harbors, especially on 
the islands. There is little variety in the surface 
of Denmark, as it is uniformly low ; and the high- 
est point in the whole country, Himmelbjerget, in 
Jutland, is only 550 feet above the level of the sea. 
It is not as low, however, as Holland is. The 
country is pleasantly diversified, and rises a little at 
the coast, even though it remains flat inland. 

The landscape of the islands and the south- 
eastern part of Jutland is rich in beech woods, 
corn fields and meadows, and even the minute 
islets are green and fertile. In the western and 
northern districts of Jutland this gives place to a 
wide expanse of moorland, covered with heather, 
and ending- at the sea in low, whitish cliffs. There 
is a melancholy charm even about these monoto- 
nous tracts, and it can not be said that. Denmark is 
wanting in natural beauty. It is obvious that in 
such a country there can exist no rivers ; the 
longest of the Danish streams is little more than 
a brook. Nor are there any large lakes. 



Copen hagen. 117 

The people are honest, economical and indus- 
trious ; every one works. The majority of them 
are rosy-cheeked, healthy and seemingly happy in 
their slow-going - way. They seem devoid of any 
ambition to acquire wealth. Their motto seems to 
be to do good, to feel good, and to enjoy life as it 
comes from day to day. Denmark, small as she is, 
is the most independent little country in Northern 
Europe. It is pre-eminently a corn land, all kinds 
of grain are grown, and the potato is largely culti- 
vated. The produce of grass is not very large, the 
fertility of the soil tempting the farmers to use it 
all for grain. The exports are largely in excess of 
the imports. 

From Korsor to Copenhagen is a distance of 
eighteen Danish miles, or fifty-six English miles. 
The road lies over a densely populated agri- 
cultural district. Men, women and children work 
in the fields together. The most important 
towns we passed on this route were Slagesingele, 
Soro and Roskedal. I arrived at the Danish 
capital on the 15th of September. Copenhagen 
is situated at the southern extremity of the 
sound, which is at that part about twenty miles 
wide. The main portion of the city is built on 
low-lying ground on the east coast of the island of 
Zealand, between the sea and a series of fresh- 
water lakes. It is becoming more and more the 
commercial centre of Denmark, and its local indus- 



118 Around the World. 

tries and its foreign trade are both making rapid 
advances. The harbor is large and commodious, 
and, by the aid of canals, large vessels can enter 
almost to the centre of the city. The principal 
streets were thronged with people of every grade 
and rank. 

At the time I was in Copenhagen the Czar of 
Russia was visiting his father-in-law, the King of 
Denmark, the public buildings were all decorated, 
and the people generally seemed to have donned 
their holiday attire. I had a glimpse of the car- 
riage and body guard of one of the greatest rulers 
in the world. A few days later, while in Chris- 
tiania, I saw the Prince of Wales and the Crown 
Prince of Norway. For all they were only ordi- 
nary mortals, I was glad I had had an opportunity 
of seeing- them. Strange how one human being 
sometimes enjoys even seeing the footprints of 
another. The Kinor of Denmark is blest with a 
royal son, the King of Greece, and with two royal 
sons-in-law, the Czar of Russia and the Prince 
of Wales. I hope on my next tour to see this 
royalty converted into a republic. It would infuse 
new life into the people to be able to breathe the 
air of freedom. 

Among the most interesting public buildings are 
the Royal Palace of Christiansborg. This palace 
contains the council chamber and the apartments 
in which both houses of Parliament hold their 



Public Buildings. 119 

sittings. The Palace of Rosenberg is an irregular 
building in Gothic style, with a high, pointed roof, 
and flanked by four towers of unequal dimensions. 
The Palace of Charlottenborgf is a hua-e, desolate- 
looking structure, built in 1672. Here the annual 
exhibition of painting and sculpture is held. The 
Thorwaldsen Museum is two stories in height, and 
230 feet long, and 125 feet broad. In the centre is 
an open court containing the artist's tomb. The 
exterior walls are decorated with groups of figures 
illustrative of events connected with the formation 
of the museum. The front hall, corridors and 
apartments are painted in the Pompeian style, with 
brilliant colors and with great artistic skill. 

The principal theatre is the Royal, on Kongens 
Nytory, a beautiful edifice of modern erection. 
This I visited, and saw some of the ablest actors 
and the most brilliant assemblage of people since 
leaving Paris. The play was grand, and the 
people dressed in the most costly attire. The 
Royal Family might properly be considered the 
feature of the evening. I also visited the Tivoli 
Gardens, which are situated immediately beyond 
the western gate, and form the favorite place of 
resort in the summer evenings. The market 
square was crowded with people, and produce of 
every kind was exhibited. Butter and cheese occu- 
pied a prominent place, and they are among the 
principal exports. 



120 Around the World. 



CHAPTER V. 

SWEDEN, THE BALTIC AND RUSSIA. 

September 19 I embarked on a small coast 
steamer for Malmo, a seaport town in Southern 
Sweden. It is situated on the eastern shore of the 
sound, opposite Copenhagen, from which it is six- 
teen miles distant. I paid my fare of two cronor, 
and, after a couple of hours' pleasant sailing, found 
myself at my destination. Here again I was in a 
new country, and my baggage had to be inspected 
by custom-house officers. This was done so fre- 
quently while traveling in Scandinavia that I began 
to look upon it in the light of a nuisance, and I re- 
solved, that, if I ever visited the country again, I 
would confine my luggage to a valise, and thus save 
myself much annoyance. However, I was subject 
to less imposition and extortion in Northern Eu- 
rope than in the countries south of the Alps and 
in the Orient, where there are whole armies of 
loafers and hangers-on whose sole object in life is 
to fleece the traveler. 

Malmo is inferior only to Stockholm and Goth- 
enburg in importance, and was formerly the most 
important town on the sound. It is built on 



Sweden. 121 

a level plain, and is backed by an agricultural 
country. One has a fine view of the water, which 
is dotted with vessels. From Malmo to Stockholm 
is about 350 English, or fifty Swedish, miles. The 
distance to Gothenburg is about the same. 

As we advance eastward the land is rolling and 
sometimes rocky, and large strips of country are 
timbered with stunted birch, fir and pine trees. 
Although to me the soil appeared unfit for cultiva- 
tion, it was densely settled and fairly improved. 
The red houses and red barns add much to the 
picturesqueness of the rocky hills. The farms and 
fields are enclosed by stone fences. The grain is 
cut with a sickle, and generally harvested by 
women. Often in the busy harvest season, the 
leading farmers select a dozen women, who, with 
sickle in hand, cut the grain and tie it in bundles. 
A given number of bundles is considered a day's 
work. Many of these peasant women occupy little 
homes on the outskirts of the farmer's domain, for 
which they pay a yearly rent. The wages they re- 
ceive for a day's work in the harvest field is fifty 
orer, which is equivalent to thirteen cents. The 
laboring classes are meagrely compensated for their 
work. The usual washes for a man who is em- 
ployed by the year is from thirty to forty dollars, 
and a woman generally receives about half that 
amount. 

Gothenburg, the second city and the chief com- 



122 Around the World. 

mercial town of Sweden, is situated in a low valley 
surrounded by bare hills, on the south bank of the 
Gotha River. It is well and regularly built, mostly 
of stone or brick, with wide and well paved streets, 
and in its general appearance much resembles an 
English town. 

From Gothenburg to Stockholm by way of the 
canal is an interesting journey. This canal con- 
nects with Lake Wetter, a large sheet of water. 
The canal and lake are girted with hills, princi- 
pally covered with tamarack and pine. Stockholm 
is situated at the junction of Lake Maelar with an 
arm of the Baltic called Skaengard. The city is 
built chiefly upon a number of islands. It is hand- 
somely designed, and built with several squares 
and public walks, ornamented with trees and 
statues. The city has been likened to Venice. 
There are several points of view which recall the 
Southern City of the Sea ; but the resemblance is 
imperfect. The approaches by water are uncom- 
monly beautiful, both on the lake side and from the 
Baltic, commanding views probably unsurpassed 
of their kind. 

The most striking object from every point, is the 
great rectangular palace, an immense structure, 
standing upon an eminence on the central island. 
Its vast and massive walls rise far above the neigh- 
boring buildings. There are few cities in Europe 
whose general aspect is more attractive than that 



Stockholm. 



123 



of Stockholm. Vast ranges of buildings are re- 
lieved and over-shadowed in the Stad by the 
majestic palace and church towers rising from their 
midst. Nowhere has nature disposed of her undu- 
lations of soil and curves of water boundary with 




The Royal Palace, Stockholm. 

more endless variety. In the compass of a single 
evening one may pass through sombre forest and 
smooth pasture slopes, climb tall granite cliffs over- 
hanging glassy lake and bay, and glide through 
the busy seaport filled with sails and moving 
industry, the granite quays lined and adorned 



124 Around the World. 

with architectural beauty, with statues and monu- 
ments of art. 

The various subdivisions of the city, intersected 
by the waters of the lake, are chiefly islands con- 
nected by bridges, some of which are of superb 
granite masonry. Picturesque ferry boats, pro- 
pelled by women in their showy provincial cos- 
tumes, add greatly to the scene in summer. In 
winter the waters are compact plains of snow-clad 
ice, covered with all the moving activity of thor- 
oughfares. One of the most interesting objects is 
the Riddarholm Church, which contains the tombs 
and trophies of many historic personages. The 
harbor is one of the finest in the world, and the 
largest-sized ships may penetrate into the very 
heart of the city. 

There are several fine theatres and other places 
of amusement. A strong military garrison of life 
guards is always .quartered in the barracks. A 
naval squadron, chiefly of gunboats, is stationed 
at an island opposite the palace. The city, cov- 
ered by a strong fortress, is perhaps impregnable 
by water. Stockholm is the chief seat of Swedish 
manufactures, which are here extensive. Trans- 
lated into English, Stockholm would be Loo- 
Island. Tradition has it that it derived its name 
from a stock, or log, which was sent adrift on the 
stream. The city was to be built wherever the log 
landed. 



Russia. 125 

On leaving- Stockholm, I crossed the Baltic, and 
paid a hasty visit to Russia. We had a stormy 
sea voyage of 375 miles. St. Petersburg, the cap- 
ital of the Russian Empire, is situated in a thinly 
peopled region at the head of the Gulf of Finland, 
and at the mouth of the River Neva. The bulk of 
the city is on the left bank of the river, and includes 
the best and the busiest streets, the richest shops, 
the great bazars and markets, the palaces, cathe- 
drals and theatres, as well as railway stations, 
except that of the Finland Railway. Among the 
principal objects of interest are the memorial to 
St. Peter and the Cathedral of St. Isaac. This 
city has a population of nearly 1,000,000 people. 
I had planned to go from St. Petersburg to Mos- 
cow, and thence to Constantinople ; but the near 
approach of winter induced me to give up this 
plan. So, after a brief but interesting stay in the 
brilliant Russian capital, I recrossed the Baltic to 
Stockholm. 



126 Around the World. 



CHAPTER VI. 

NORWAY. 

On arriving at Stockholm, I took the cars for 
Christiania. On this journey I visited the Trol- 
hatta Fall, one of the grandest sights in Sweden. 
At Frederickstad I had my first glimpse of Nor- 
way. I was now fast entering one of the most 
picturesque countries of the earth. The first sight 
of interest we passed in this romantic region was 
the celebrated Sarf-foss, on the River Glommen. 
This remarkable fall, or foss, is surrounded by 
some of the most picturesque mountain scenery in 
Norway. In fact, the principal features of Nor- 
wegian scenery are fjeldes, fosses and fiords, or, as 
we would term them, mountains, falls and rivers. 
On account of the mountainous character of the 
country, the rivers are navigable only for short dis- 
tances, and even then, only exceptionally by large 
vessels. It is only in those comparatively frequent 
cases where the rivers expand into lakes, that they 
can, strictly speaking, be navigated by ships. On 
the other hand, the waterfalls in Norway are 
exceedingly numerous, and many of them remark- 
able for their height, body of wa^er, and great 
beauty. 



Norway. 127 

The mountains are covered with some of the 
finest pine timber in the world. Logs are floated 
down on the rivers to the saw-mills, which are 
everywhere in operation. The lumber is exported 
to all parts of Europe. This trade and the famous 
iron mines and extensive fisheries form the most 
important industries of Norway. Very little grain 
is raised here, and fully one-fourth of the cereals 
consumed must be imported. 

Norway has no extensive railway system, the 
railways having a total length of only 973 miles. 
At Frederickstad, an important lumber port, I 
took the train for Christiania, traveling by way of 
the famous Kijolberg bridge, where a battle was 
fought in the stormy days of 18 14, between Nor- 
way and Sweden. We traveled through an ele- 
vated and thickly timbered region, where we had 
a fine view of the long, open bay, called the Chris- 
tiania fiord. This was one of the most interesting 
railway rides I had enjoyed in Europe. 

Christiania is beautifully situated at the head of 
the fiord of the same name, an arm of the Skager 
Rack. The streets are broad, and the houses, ex- 
cept in the suburbs, are built chiefly of brick and 
stone. It is the seat of the Crown Prince and of 
the Storthing, or Parliament, of the Hoieste-ret, or 
final court of appeal, and of the bishop of the 
Stift. It has a population of about 125,000. 

I stopped at the Victoria Hotel, where I paid 



128 Around the World. 

eight cronor, or about $2.25, per day. The accom- 
modations were fine, and guests are served in 
Scandinavian or American style. Among the pub- 
lic buildings may be mentioned the royal palace ; the 
cathedral, a brick edifice in the shape of a Greek 
cross ; the museums and the National Gallery, all 
fairly good buildings for a small city. The Parlia- 
ment or Storthing building is substantial, but not 
grand. The palace of the Crown Prince is a 
spacious wooden structure, but is not at all impos- 
ing. After visiting the Louvre in Paris, and Buck- 
ingham Palace in London, these seemed very 
small affairs. The Fish Bazar is quite an enter- 
prise. Here live fish are kept all the year round, 
and people get their fish here instead of buying 
them at the ordinary fish markets. The fortress 
of Agershuus defends the fiord and the greater 
part of the town. It contains the regalia and 
national records, and its ramparts afford an agree- 
able promenade It is remarkable more for its 
strength and antiquity than for its architectural 
finish. 

In the northern portion of the city I visited 
Agers Elv, a swiftly flowing stream, the water 
power of which is utilized by the various factories. 
The operatives in these factories are principally 
girls. My visit to St. John's height was the most 
important event to me that occurred during my 
visit to the city. From this lofty eminence I had 




(129) 



130 Around the World. 

a fine view, not only of the entire city, but of the 
shipping in the harbor. It happened while I was 
viewing the city from this height that there was a 
large crowd of people waiting for the arrival of the 
Prince of Wales, who was visiting Christiania. At 
two o'clock the carriages containing the royal per- 
sonages appeared in sight, followed by a large con- 
course of people, all arrayed in holiday attire. 

The tourist generally takes Christiania for a 
starting point when he decides to venture into 
Northern Norway to see some of the wildest 
scenery under the sun. Forty miles north of 
Christiania is a large body of water called Mjosen, 
where small steamers are busily plying in every 
direction all summer long. The general character 
of the whole country is extremely rugged, particu- 
larly in the North. The valleys are short and 
abrupt. Precipices, cascades and torrents are met 
with in every direction, and grand and picturesque 
scenery abounds. 

Among the most striking natural curiosities is 
the mountain of Kilhorn, a remarkable pyramidal 
peak, terminating with a long, sharp, spire-like 
summit, and having a large perforation about 
three-fourths of the way up its side. Some of the 
mountain passes are extremely picturesque. The 
Voringfoss and Rukanfoss are cataracts, each nine 
hundred feet in perpendicular descent, and several 
of the rivers have falls of less height. The rivers 



The Fiords. 131 

and lakes are abundantly stocked with many 
varieties of excellent fish, among which are trout 
and salmon. Game of all kinds is very plentiful. 
Norway is a favorite resort for the European no- 
bility, who, satiated with pleasure and sight-seeing, 
come here in the summer to hunt and fish. 

The numerous, and in many cases very extensive 
fiords give to the different parts of the coast of 
Norway a remarkably varied character. For long 
distances the mainland does not come in contact 
with the sea. Among the most noteworthy is 
Hardanger Fiord, which pierces the country for 
eighty miles in a northeasterly direction. The 
climate is less severe than might be expected from 
the high latitude and the elevation of surface, being 
considerably tempered by the sea and warm south- 
west winnls. Perpetual snow is found only in ele- 
vated localities. It is a wonderful si^ht to see the 
sun rise in its majestic beauty among the glaciers. 
The broad mountains running up into sharp peaks, 
covered with clear coats of crystallized ice, glitter in 
the sunshine, and present a grandly magnificent 
sight. 

I visited Drammen, a bustling city of about 
twenty thousand inhabitants, situated at the head 
of Drammen Fiord, thirty miles west of Chris- 
tiania. It has quite a number of industrial estab- 
lishments, and an active trade in wood, pitch and 
iron, is carried on. My next stopping place was 



132 Around the World, 

Skien, situated at the extreme western end of the 
railroad, and 130 English miles from Christiania. 
The railroad follows the line of the sea-shore, pass- 
ing through numerous tunnels, climbing hills, and 
crossing pretty little valleys dotted with small 
farms. We were continually sighting streams and 
waterfalls. . 

On this route we passed Holmestrand, Sane- 
/ '/ Fiord and Kongsberg, situated on alvs, or rivers, 
and in close proximity to the coast. Here are 
situated the rich and famous silver mines of Nor- 
way. These mines, as well as the railroads, are 
owned and controlled by the government. From 
Skien small steamers travel by way of a canal to 
an inland lake called the Inland North Sea. This 
takes the tourist as far north as Ule-foss, in 
Tellemarken. Many tourists avail themselves of 
the opportunity to visit this attractive body of 
water, and view the grand and striking scenery 
among the lofty mountains of Central Norway. 

It is exceedingly interesting to visit the country 
during the summer season, and inspect the satras. 
These are situated four or five English miles from 
the main farms. Here they keep the cattle tem- 
porarily during the harvest season, and have their 
dairies, where they make butter and cheese. While 
the herders are watching their flocks in the grassy 
meadows and on the wooded hills, they are con- 
stantly tooting their horns, partly for amusement 



Satra Life. 133 

and partly in accordance with an old custom, as it 
was formerly supposed that the noise of the horn 
was useful in keeping bears, wolves and other wild 
animals away from their herds. 

In the temporary cabins you will hear the maids 
singing as they churn or spin. You will find 
women in the meadows raking hay or on the hill- 
sides, sickle in hand, cutting foliage to be cured 
and stored for food for the stock during the long, 
cold winter. The boys are engaged in fishing, and 
the smaller children in picking berries. The men 
are busy mowing, or felling timber, which is hauled, 
tandem fashion, by the chubby ponies to the neigh- 
boring fiords. Evening life in these cabins pre- 
sents a lively scene. The time is spent in playing 
on the flute and violin and in dancing- ; when wea- 
ried of that, in spinning yarns and telling ghost 
stories. Some are engaged in making boasts as to 
who is the strongest man, who owns the fastest 
horse, the sharpest knife, or has the best-looking girl. 
This is a fair description of satra life in Norway ; 
and is what I have seen with my own eyes, and 
heard with my own ears. 

On returning to Skien, which is the terminus of 
the railroad, I embarked on a small coast steamer 
for Kragero, only about four hours' ride on the 
Fiord. We kept close to the shore, and had a fine 
view of the peculiar formation of the coast. The 
harbor of Kragero I found to be surrounded by 



134 Around the World. 

fjelds and islands. This city impresses one as 
being odd, ugly and old ; the streets are' crooked 
and narrow, and it looks as if it might have been 
pretty well shaken up at some time by an earth- 
quake. It has a background of rugged and rocky 
hills. The city has, however, several wealthy 
merchants and owners of ships, and does a thrifty 
business in exporting lumber to foreign countries. 

On leaving Kragero, I journeyed into the interior. 
The only mode of travel now was by stage. There 
is a compulsory law or rule in Norway requiring a 
stage to be furnished any traveler who will pay for 
the use of it, the price generally charged being one 
crono and fifty orer, or forty cents, for every ten 
miles, which is generally about the distance be- 
tween stations. The tax-payers all along the line 
of the mail road have, to furnish these stages, each 
as their turn comes around. The traveler usually 
gives notice of his coming, by mail, the day before- 
hand. The stage outfit consists of a pony horse 
hitched to a cariole or sleigh, according to the sea- 
son of the year. 

On this occasion I occupied a cariole, a narrow 
two-wheeled vehicle used in Norway, just wide 
enough to hold one person. I enjoyed the ride 
more on account of its novelty than for its com- 
fort. My baggage was placed at my feet ; the 
driver stood upright behind me on a step, holding 
the lines, with which he guided the spirited horse, 



Gjerestad, 135 

over my head ; and we rattled along at a lively 
gait on a narrow road, which was but a few inches 
wider than the vehicle. It is customary at the end 
of the journey to tip the driver with fifteen orer 
(about four cents). After a varied experience in 
traveling and riding, I have learned to enjoy all the 
various styles, from comfortably sitting in a palace 
car to riding a pack donkey, 

Arriving at Gjerestad, I was, after a lapse of 
many years, in the place where I was born, and 
where the earlier part of my childhood was spent, 
surrounded by lofty mountains and inland fiords. 
I went sleigh riding and skating, and engaged in 
all the varied amusements that so delight the heart 
of boyhood, utterly oblivious of the grand mount- 
ains towering above us, or of the picturesque 
beauty of the fiord, whose waters glittered in the 
summer sunlight or became a vast sheet of ice in 
the chilling grasp of winter. Little did I dream, 
that, in after years, I should travel thousands of 
miles to visit other scenes less grand and inspiring, 
or that my home was to be in the far-off, golden 
West. The events of my childhood had almost 
faded from my memory years before, and old play- 
mates and schoolmates were now gray-haired men, 
known to me only by their names. 

On all sides I was treated to a hearty hand- 
shaking and a shower of questions, a few of which I 
will repeat. The first query nearly always was : 



136 Around the World. 

"Well, Mr. Johnson, how came you to get so 
rich ? " to which I would reply that I was not aware 
of the fact that I was rich, but that what means I 
had acquired were due to energy and industry ; 
that, if we desire gold, we must go where gold 
abounds; that "we must make hay while the sun 
shines ; " rise early and plow deep to get corn to 
sell and corn to keep. 

They would next inquire who was going with 
me around the world, and I told them that my 
only companion was a full purse. They would 
often ask me if I did not know that few travelers 
ever returned from such a long and venturesome 
journey. I answered that this was true, but that 
also it would be more remarkable and more to my 
credit if I could accomplish it; that I was fortified 
with courage, fortitude and endurance ; and that 
I did not care to follow in the beaten tracks where 
there was no risk and nothing to encounter. 

I was looked upon with as much curiosity and 
interest as if I had been the long-lost prodigal son. 
Although they put no ring on my finger, they 
nearly killed me with kindness in the way of over- 
feeding me. Here at Gjerestad two of the pleas- 
antest weeks I had in Europe were spent; either 
tongue or body were in constant motion, and invi- 
tations were extended from all sides. 

No matter at what hour you make a call, you 
must stop and eat a meal, or it is considered no 



Customs of the Country. 137 

visit ; and, hungry or not hungry, you must eat. 
After leaving the table it is customary to take the 
host and his wife by the hand, and thank them for 
the meal. At the dawn of day a cup of coffee and 
a sandwich were brought to my bedside. Break- 
fast and dinner, the two best meals, are served at 
the regular hours. After the latter meal is over, it 
is customary to lie down for a couple of hours' 
sleep. At two o'clock coffee and sandwiches are 
served. This is the custom in nearly all parts of 
Norway, particularly in the rural districts. Even 
the servants eat five times a day, though often of 
the plainest food. Well, they need plenty to eat, 
as they are poorly paid for their work in Norway, 
as in Switzerland and Denmark. 

I was now busily engaged in visiting and sight- 
seeing. I went from one farm to another, and was 
always given the chubbiest horse and best cariole, 
and thus was rapidly whirled along the narrow 
roads, which run over rolling hills, through deep 
dales, among fjelds and along fiords. As soon as 
one attraction was out of sight a grander one ap- 
peared in view. In this country a polite custom 
prevails ; the people always lift their hats to a 
stranger traveling along the highway. The driver, 
who stood behind me holding the lines over my 
head, often prevented me from lifting mine very 
high as I returned the salutation. 

Northern Gjerestad is situated at a considerable 



138 Around the World, 

altitude. The highest mountain in this vicinity is 
called Myre-ausen, and is a summer resort for the 
aristocracy, who come up into this picturesque 
region on account of the grand and romantic 
scenery. I stood on the very highest peak of this 
eminence, and enjoyed the most magnificent and 
the most extended view that I had had from any 
peak in Europe. From this point I could get a 
glimpse of Tellemarken's highest peaks, and see 
the vessels in the ocean west of Jomfruland hasten- 
ing on their way over the North Sea. 

The scenery was wild and picturesque, on every 
side towering mountains and cataracts ; and the 
long fiord of Gjerestad, which pierces the country 
for many miles, appeared like a glistening streak 
of silver. I concluded that this must be the Switz- 
erland of the North, so far as grand and romantic 
scenery is concerned. 

The marriage ceremony is probably the most 
curious of the many strange customs that prevail 
in this far northern country. The contracting par- 
ties must have the bans announced in church three 
Sabbaths in succession, preceding the day. This 
gives ample time for investigation or objection if 
there is any one desirous of preventing the match. 
A wedding is always a most brilliant affair in 
Norway. The wedding festivities take place at 
the house of the groom ; and, as all the friends 
and relatives at home and abroad are invited, 



The Wedding Feast- — Schools. 139 

there is generally a goodly number of people 
assembled. 

The wedding is called a "bryliip," and feasting and 
dancing are kept up for two or three days. The 
first day the entire company march to the church, 
where the marriage ceremony is performed by the 
minister. On returning home every one is in high 
glee, and eating, drinking and dancing are indulged 
in to their hearts' content. The fattest calves and 
beeves are killed, the best beverages served, and 
the most skillful musicians employed. I have been 
fortunate enough to be one of the guests at a Nor- 
wegian wedding, and I assure you that a "bryliip" 
is a thing much to be enjoyed, and long to be 
remembered. This marriage custom prevails 
throughout Scandinavia, and in many other parts 
of Europe. 

Education is compulsory, and, upon the whole, 
well cared for. Every parish has its schoolmaster, 
paid partly by small contributions from each pupil, 
and partly from the proceeds of a tax on house- 
holders. It is rare to find any one who can not at 
least read and write. The towns have superior 
schools. Great pains are taken by the clergy with 
the religious education of their parishioners. The 
religion of the people is Lutheranism, almost with- 
out exception. Probably the good seed sown in 
childhood is not without its beneficial effect in 
after years, as there are fewer criminals in the pris- 



140 Around the World. 

ons in Norway, in proportion to the population, 
than in America and many countries in Europe. 

The chief resource of Gjerestad is the lumber 
trade. All winter the logs are hauled from the 
extensive pine regions to the fiords, and, as soon as 
the ice breaks in the spring, the timber is tumbled 
into the fiords, and rafted and floated down to the 
seaport, and exported by the merchants. 

Owing to the mountainous character of the 
country, there is comparatively very little level 
land ; consequently, grain farms are small, ma- 
chinery can not be used to advantage, and the 
crops are planted and harvested mainly by hand. 
The hay is mowed with a hand scythe by the men, 
and raked up by the women. 

The crops are planted by both sexes. In the 
harvest season the women cut the grain with 
sickles, and the men tie it in bundles. It is left a 
few days to dry, and then hauled into the spacious 
barns. This is clone with two rigs. A species of 
rack is placed either on a sleigh or a two-wheeled 
rig, and on this the bundles are loaded. The man 
drives into the centre of the barn, unhitches the 
horse from the wagon, and then goes back to the 
field for the other one. While he is away a serv- 
ant girl unloads. This is kept up until the last 
bundle is removed from the field, and stored in the 
barn. In the winter the grain is threshed on the 
barn floor with flails by the maid servants. In the 



General Prosperity of the People. 141 

evening, when they are resting from their labors, 
they are busily engaged in spinning. These small 
farmers take great pride in building lofty houses, 
which they paint mostly red. 

While the people in Norway, as a rule, are not 
wealthy, neither does extreme poverty exist. The 
people are happy, industrious and honest; they are 
simple in their tastes and habits, but kind and hos- 
pitable. They are among the best sailors in the 
world, large numbers of the population being 
engaged from early life in coast fisheries, which are 
an excellent school for seamen, the navigation 
among the islands, shoals and narrow channels, 
being intricate and dangerous. 

Though Norway is situated in a comparatively 
remote region, and is the most sparsely populated 
country in Europe, she is on the steady road to 
prosperity. 

I was so busily engaged in visiting and sight- 
seeing that the days rolled swiftly by, and, almost 
before I was aware of it, the time had come for me 
to leave one of the most interesting places on my 
whole journey. The last good-bye was said, and I 
started once more on my journey around the globe, 
with forty thousand miles of it yet to travel before 
that journey could be accomplished. 

From Gjerestad I traveled westward to Chris- 
tiansand, a distance of eighty-five miles. Part of 
this journey I traveled by land, and the remainder 



142 Around the World. 

by water. At Risor, the first seaport, I embarked 
on a coast steamer for Christiansand. On the way 
we made landing at the following towns : Twedes- 
trand, Arendal and Lillesand. The scenery all 
along the coast is picturesque in the extreme. 

Christiansand is a fortified town on the North 
Sea, in Southern Norway, ranking next to Chris- 
tiania and Bergen as an important seaport of the 
country. It is situated at the mouth of a deep and 
well sheltered harbor, and is surrounded on three 
sides by cliffs of uniform height. The houses, 
mostly of painted wood, are regularly built, and 
the streets are wide. There is a fine cathedral and 
a cathedral school. The ship-building and the for- 
tifications are among the principal attractions. 



Crossing the North Sea. 143 



CHAPTER VII. 

ACROSS THE NORTH SEA, GERMANY AND THE ALPS. 

On the 7th of October I embarked on the 
Bergen steamer Palace for Hamburg. On this 
voyage we had to travel over the North Sea for a 
distance of four hundred English miles. It was a 
very rough passage, as a heavy gale was blowing ; 
and, if one desired a promenade on the lower deck, 
he would have to take it knee deep in .water. 
Under such circumstances I preferred to remain in 
my small state-room, for the cabin was small and 
uncomfortable for passengers. We had on board 
a heavy cargo of fish. The North Sea was the 
stormiest body of water I had sailed on up to this 
time, and it has the reputation of being the rough- 
est water in the northern world. 

I had now been on shore for several weeks, and 
had again to get accustomed to the sea. Seeing 
me in one of my worst spells of sea-sickness, the 
captain said ; '' Well! Mr. Johnson, I can not see 
where you can find any pleasure in your tour 
around the world if you can not stand the sea any 
better than this." I told him I probably would not 
find much amusement were the North Sea to follow 



144 Around the World. 

me all the way around, but that in the beginning I 
had expected to experience many unpleasant things. 
The sights I saw and the pleasures I experienced 
in all the countries and amongst the various nations 
I visited were sufficient in all instances to repay me 
for the comparatively few uncomfortable days I 
had to endure while traveling on the ocean. This 
rough passage, however, was not without some at- 
traction ; for I was much interested in watching 
the multitude of vessels which were traversing the 
waters of this sea, each with spreading sails hurry- 
ing" alone to its destination. 

On the 9th of October we steamed up the Elbe 
River to the busy city of Hamburg, one of the 
free cities of Germany, and I once more found my- 
self on German soil. I gave a brief description of 
this city, however, as I made my northward trip. 

At Hamburg I took the cars for Frankfort-on- 
the-Main. We traveled over a level and moist val- 
ley for a hundred miles, when we arrived at Hano- 
ver, a city of about 150,000 inhabitants, situated in 
a sandy, fertile plain. The River Leine flows 
through the city, having the old town on its right 
bank, and the new town between its left bank and 
the River Ihme. The old town is irregularly built, 
with narrow streets and old-fashioned houses ; 
while the new town has wide streets, handsome 
buildings and beautiful squares. Of the latter the 
most remarkable is the square at the railway ter- 



Gottingen — Prankfort-on-the-Main. 145 

minus, which has an equestrian statue of King 
Ernest Augustus. 

The distance from Hanover to Frankfort is 200 
miles. The road runs through a fertile valley, 
which is almost as densely populated as the 
suburbs of a city. This vast expanse of country 
is as uniformly level as Stanislaus County, in Cali- 
fornia, and struck me as being the finest agricul- 
tural country in Europe. The roadways are lined 
with shade trees, and on every side can be seen the 
comfortable homes of the industrious farmers. 
The first city of importance on this route is Got- 
tingen, which is quite a railway centre. Here we 
changed cars for Frankfort, as I had decided to 
travel by the way of Bebra and Fulda. At the 
southern end of this road the country is inclined to 
be hilly, the soil is of a reddish character, and is 
planted to fruit trees and vines. 

Frankfort-on-the-Main is one of the principal 
cities of the German Empire. It is situated in the 
Prussian province of Hesse Nassau, and was, until 
1866, one of the four free cities of Germany. It 
occupies a position of no small natural beauty in 
the midst of the broad and fertile valley of the 
Main, its northern horizon being formed by the 
soft outlines of the Taunns range. The surround- 
ing country is richly clad with orchard and forest, 
and, in the spring season especially, presents a 
prospect of indescribable luxuriance. I found 
10 



146 Around the World. 

Frankfort an interesting and attractive city, with a 
population of about 150,000. It has the reputa- 
tion of being the richest city in the world in pro- 
portion to its population. The bulk of the capital 
of Germany is concentrated here. 

In the modern portion, Frankfort will compare 
favorably, both in the general appearance of the 
streets and the architectural character of indi- 
vidual buildings, with all except a very few of the 
greater cities of the Continent. Among the most 
attractive features of the city are the princely man- 
sions of the Rothschilds and other opulent citizens. 
The dingy and unpretentious house which saw the 
rise of the Rothschild family still stands in the 
famous Judenstrasse, or Jews' street. The princi- 
pal ecclesiastical building is the Cathedral of St. 
Bartholomew. The date of its foundation is not 
precisely known ; but a church was erected on the 
site at least as early as 874. 

Of the secular buildings, perhaps the most char- 
acteristic is the Rathhaus, or Romer, dating from 
the fifteenth century. It was here, in the Wahl- 
zimmer, or election-room, that the electors or their 
plenipotentiaries decided the choice of the Em- 
peror ; and here, in the Kaiser Halle, or Emperor's 
Hall, that the coronation festivities were held. The 
palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis is a large 
building of considerable historical interest. The 
Eschenheim Tower is a picturesque relic of the 



Heidelberg. 14? 

ancient fortifications, dating from the middle of the 
fourteenth century. 

Few cities of the same size as Frankfort are so 
richly furnished with literary, scientific and artistic 
institutions, or possess so many handsome build- 
ings appropriated to their use. The museums, the 
zoological gardens and the beautiful pleasure 
grounds are all worthy of a visit. There are four 
railway stations, which, with the exception of the 
one at Stuttgart, are the finest depots in Germany. 
The climate in this portion of the empire is similar 
to that of France or Italy. 

I left Frankfort for Italy on October 12, going 
by way of Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Stuttgart and 
Baden-Baden. These are all important cities, 
situated in a productive valley in the south of Ger- 
many. On the south bank of the Neckar, about 
twelve miles from the junction of that river with 
the Rhine, and at the opening of the winding 
Neckar Valley, the situation of Heidelberg is one 
of romantic beauty. Behind it and before it rise 
lofty hills covered with vineyards and forests, and 
between their fertile slopes the Neckar rushes 
swiftly along. To the left the country opens out 
into the broad Rhine plain, cultivated like a garden, 
and bounded by distant and hardly perceptible 
mountains. 

The chief building in Heidelberg, and, indeed, 
the principal attraction for the stranger, is the 



148 Around the World. 

famous castle which overhangs the western part of 
the town. It is situated on the castle hill, more 
properly called Jettenbuhel, 330 feet above the 
Neckar. Though now a ruin, yet its extent, its 
magnificence, its beautiful situation, and its inter- 
esting history render it by far the most noteworthy, 
.as it certainly is the grandest and largest, of the 
old castles of Germany. The University of Hei- 
delberg is the oldest in the German Kingdom. 

Carlsruhe, the capital of the Grand Duchy of 
Baden, I found to be an enterprising city of 55,000 
inhabitants. It lies on an elevated plain about 
five miles from the Rhine, and is surrounded by 
beautiful parks and gardens. It has several public 
gardens and some fine squares. In the centre of 
the market place is a pyramid in honor of Charles 
William, the founder of the city. Carlsruhe car- 
ries on a considerable trade, and has quite a number 
of manufactories. 

Baden-Baden, a celebrated watering place, stands 
on the side of a hill, near the Ovs, or Oel, in a 
beautiful valley of the Black Forest, eighteen miles 
southwest of Carlsruhe. The superiority of its 
situation, its extensive pleasure grounds, gardens 
and promenades, and the brilliancy of its life dur- 
ing the fashionable season, have for a long series 
of years continued to attract visitors from all parts 
of the world. The hot springs, which were among 
the earliest attractions of the place, are twenty-nine 



Stuttgart. 149 

in number. They flow from the castle rock at the 
rate of ninety gallons per minute, and the water is 
conveyed through the town in pipes to supply the 
different baths. The gaming tables, for so many 
years a striking feature of Baden-Baden, are now 
abolished. 

Stuttgart, the capital of the Kingdom of Wiir- 
temberg, is situated on the River Nesan, a tribu- 
tary of the Neckar. It stands in a very beautiful 
valley, surrounded by vine-clad hills, with well- 
wooded mountains in the distance. The town is 
encircled by a wall and ditch, is entered by eight 
gates, and consists of two parts, the ancient and 
modern, with two suburbs. In the chief square is 
a fine old Gothic church, with a high tower and 
many ancient sculptures and monuments of the 
princes of Wiirtemberg. In the vicinity are 
numerous parks and gardens, where the public are 
admitted, including Rosenstein, the summer palace 
of the King. 

Stuttgart is a very ancient town ; but the date of 
its foundation is not known. It has one of the 
finest and most spacious railway depots in the 
world. On arriving at the station, we had to 
descend a long flight of stairs, go underneath the 
track, and come up on the other side of the station. 
Many of the depots in Europe are constructed on 
this plan. However odd this may seem to be, it 
guards against accidents that might otherwise 
occur, 



150 Aro2ind the World. 

The country is very thickly settled, and one is 
hardly ever out of sight of villages or towns. I 
had now traveled the whole length of the German 
Empire twice in two months, and had seen much 
of the life and resources of these industrious 
people. I did not see much of the mountain scen- 
ery, but was greatly surprised in finding such a 
vast area of level land. Much of it was irrigated, 
ar.d all well cultivated. Notwithstanding that the 
country is densely settled and seemingly over- 
populated, the people appeared to be happy and 
prosperous. I concluded that economy and indus- 
try did it all. 

I crossed the River Rhine, and once more found 
myself in Switzerland. Before leaving the Rhine, 
however, I must not neglect to mention the delight- 
ful ride I had on this most beautiful river. I found 
its banks lined with gigantic trees, their branches 
projecting over the water's edge. The sources of 
the Rhine are found in the Swiss Canton of 
Grisons. It is about 800 miles in length, anc j 
drains an area of 75,000 square miles. It connects 
the highest Alps with the mud banks of Holland, 
is the chief river of Germany, and has been one 
of the most important waterways of Europe from 
the earliest times, to which the long array of 
ancient and flourishing towns along its banks bear 
witness. 

Politically the Rhine has always played a great 



Re crossing the Alps. 151 

part, and it would require no great strain to write 
a history of this majestic river which would also be 
a history of the western half of Continental Eu- 
rope. In military history constant allusion is made 
to the Rhine. Every general who has fought in 
its neighborhood has at one time or another had 
to improvise a means of crossing it, from Julius 
Caesar, who crossed it twice, down to our own 
time. 

It has always exercised a peculiar sort of fasci- 
nation over the German mind, in a measure and 
in away not easily paralleled by the case of any 
other river. " Father Rhine," as it is sometimes 
called, is the centre of the German's patriotism. 
In his literature it has played a prominent part, 
and its weird and romantic legends have been alter- 
nately the awe and the delight of his childhood. 
It was the classic river of the middle ages, and 
probably the Tiber alone is of equal historical 
interest. 

In crossing the Alps the second time, I traveled 
by way of the St. Gothard Tunnel, the longest tun- 
nel in the world, having a total length of ten miles, 
and requiring forty minutes to pass through it. 
While I have said much in praise of Germany's 
stately cities, extensive and fertile valleys, and 
majestic rivers, the palm must be accorded to 
Switzerland for grand and picturesque mountain 
scenery, and beautiful lakes. At the foot of the 



152 Around the World. 

Alps on this route, is a pastoral region, the chief 
resource of which is stock-raisino-. Here I saw the 

o 

largest breed of cattle in Europe. They were 
feeding on mountain sides so steep that one won- 
dered how they managed to maintain their equi- 
librium. 

Lake Lucerne was my first stopping place. This 
lake has extraordinary interest for the lover of 
natural scenery, and for all who feel a sympathy 
with the story of Swiss independence. The 
irregularity of its form is the chief cause of the 
unequaled variety of its scenery ; but the structure 
of the mountains that enclose it much enhances the 
effect. Its eastern portion lies amid limestone 
rocks, which are marked by sharp peaks and ridges 
and precipitous crags ; the middle part is enclosed 
by such mountains as the Righi and the Burgen- 
stein, which show steep faces, with gently sloping 
summits ; while the western extremity is surrounded 
by swelling hills, richly planted, and dotted with 
bright-looking hamlets or solitary farm houses. 

The forests which once covered the greater part 
of this region have been extensively thinned out ; 
but enough yet remains to add another element to 
the charms of the scenery. Vineyards are scarcely 
seen on the shores of the lake ; but orchards sur- 
round most of the houses, and the walnut grows to 
great perfection. 

On the shores of this lake were nurtured the 



Whirlwinds and Avalanches. 153 

men who commenced the heroic efforts that secured 
freedom for their country. Here, at the beginning 
of the fourteenth century, in an age when nearly 
all Europe was in the hands of feudal oppressors, 
a handful of mountaineers drove out the local 
tyrants and leveled their strongholds, and, a few 
years later, on the fields of Morgarten and Sem- 
pach, confronted and put to flight the chivalry of 
Austria. 

I had the pleasure of riding with some tourists 
from America on one of the small steamers which 
traverse the waters of this lake. There are many 
other Alpine lakes of great beauty which I visited 
while journeying across the Alps. The whirlwinds 
of the Alps are worthy of notice, not only on 
account of their terrific violence, often overwhelm- 
ing the hapless traveler with blinding snow, but on 
account of their frequently setting in motion the 
dreaded avalanche. So precipitous are the slopes 
of many of the Alpine peaks that the giving way 
of a slight barrier, a tree or a boulder perhaps, is 
sufficient to detach from its original position a vast 
mass of snow and ice. This, gathering force from 
its fall, brings sudden and inevitable destruction on 
whatever may be on its track, burying at times 
whole villages, crushing extensive forests, and 
filling up the beds of rivers. 



154 Aroitnd the World. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

ITALY, GIBRALTAR AND MALTA. 

On descending the Alps into Italy, the first city 
of importance is Milan, lying in the middle of the 
fertile plain of the Lombard. It has a population 
of nearly 300,000. Seen from the top of the 
cathedral, the surrounding country presents the 
appearance of a great garden, divided into square 
plats by rows of mulberry or poplar trees. Milan 
is built in a circle, the cathedral being the central 
point, and is surrounded by a wall seven miles in 
circumference. Immediately outside the wall, a 
fine broad thoroughfare makes the circuit of the 
city. The streets inside are, for the most part, 
narrow and crooked. 

Among the noted buildings the cathedral is the 
most important. It is built of brick cased in 
marble from the quarries which Visconti gave in 
perpetuity to the Cathedral Chapter. It is 447 
feet in length and 183 feet wide ; the cupola is 226 
feet high, and the tower 360 feet. The roof is 
built of blocks of white marble ; is supported by 
fifty-two columns, with canopied niches for statues; 
and is ornamented with turrets, pinnacles, and 2,000 



Milan. 



155 



statues. The name of the original architect is not 
known ; but it is certain that many German master 
masons were called to Milan to assist the Italian 
builders. 

There are four other churches of interest in Mi- 
lan. St. Ambrose's, the oldest, was founded by St. 




Milan Cathedral. 



Ambrose, in the fourth century, on the ruins of the 
Temple of Bacchus. The royal and archiepiscopal 
palaces are both worthy of note I also visited 
the Arsenal, the Crematory and the theatres. 
With the exception of the St. Carlo, at Naples, 



156 Around the World. 

Milan has the largest theatre in Europe. Milan 
is rich in works of art, and it has been the home 
of many excellent sculptors and architects. The 
picture gallery of the Breva is one of the finest in 
Italy. 

As I was again in a new country, my baggage 
must be examined at the custom house. At the 
time of my visit to Italy the cholera was raging, 
and all baggage was put into an intensely hot cell 
for about ten minutes. This was required as a pre- 
caution against the epidemic. While undergoing 
this process of purification, my leather valise had a 
hole burned in it. 

Once more I had to contend with new customs, 
new coin, and, worst of all, an unfamiliar language. 
I had to employ an interpreter to point out the ob- 
jects of interest and explain the many strange 
sights. The ordinary fee for such services is five 
francs a day, and as much more as they can get out 
of the unwary stranger. The traveler on the south 
side of the Alps is subject to constant annoyance 
from beggars, and all sorts of imposition from run- 
ners and guides. 

From Milan to Venice was a ten-hours ride on 
the cars. The northern half of this route was 
over a moist and level valley, thickly planted to 
vines and fruit trees. All kinds of vegetation 
grow in profusion, and the roadway for miles was 
lined with ornamental shade trees. I was almost 



Verona — Venice. 157 

tempted to think I had found the Paradise of 
Europe. The Italian women are not behind their 
sisters on the other side of the Alps so far as out- 
door labor is concerned. Everywhere in the fields 
or gardens they could be seen busily engaged in 
hoeing, raking or pruning. For this hard and 
constant toil they are poorly remunerated. 

One of the most interesting cities we pass be- 
tween Milan and Venice is Verona. This is a very 
ancient city, and the date of its foundation is un- 
known ; but Julius Csesar established a colony 
here, and under the Romans it became a flourish- 
ing city. It has a population of about 65,000. 
Verona is situated on both sides of the river 
Adige, which is crossed by four stone bridges. 
The town is surrounded by extensive fortifications, 
and has five gates. Many of the streets are nar- 
row and dusty ; but some are wide and well kept. 
It stands in a beautiful country at the foot of the 
hills which form a portion of the Tyrolese Alps. 

Venice is on the Gulf of Venice, which is prop- 
erly a portion of the Adriatic Sea. About four 
miles from the coast is a long and narrow belt with 
a number of openings through which the waters of 
the Adriatic Sea make their way, forming a lagoon 
from twenty-five to thirty miles long and about five 
miles broad and containing seventy-two small 
islands. Into this lagoon, piles have been driven, 
and upon them Venice has been built, so that from 




(1C8) 



Grand Canal — Rialto — Gondolas. 159 

any point the city seems to be floating in the water. 
It is an extremely interesting place to the sight- 
seer. Communication between the various parts 
of the city is by water. There are only two streets 
worthy of the name, — Mauria, which is situated in 
the centre of the city, and is from twelve to twenty 
feet wide ; and the Piazza of St. Mark, with the 
Piazzetta leading- from it to the canal. The Piazza 
is surrounded on all sides by handsome buildings, 
and is a favorite resort for loungers and tourists. 

The Grand Canal is from ioo to 180 feet wide, 
and is lined on both sides by magnificent buildings, 
many of which come down to the water's edge, so 
that people step from them into the gondolas. 
There are 146 smaller canals, which are crossed by 
360 bridges ; but over the Grand Canal, there is 
only one, called the Rialto. This is a magnificent 
marble structure, built in 1590, at a cost of more 
than half a million dollars. 

The gondolas, which in Venice take the place of 
carriages and fast horses in other cities, are a 
species of barge. They are flat bottomed, usually 
about thirty feet long, are as narrow as a canoe, 
and are always painted black. The bows terminate 
in sharp points, ornamented with brass, which 
curve upward like a goose's neck to the height of 
several feet. Near the centre of the gondola is a 
small cabin with glazed windows hung with black 
curtains. The gondoliers, or boatmen, are gener- 



160 Around the World. 

ally barefooted and half clad. They are so expert 
in the management of their craft that a collision or 
accident is almost unknown, notwithstanding the 
fact that in some quarters the water is fairly 
swarming with boats. The city is full of gondo- 
liers, runners, guides, beggars and peddlers, all 
lying in wait for an opportunity to squeeze the 
loose change from the traveling public. 

Venice was at one time one of the proudest and 
wealthiest cities in Southern Europe, and carried 
on an extensive commerce ; but for several cen- 
turies her commerce has been declining, the ma- 
jority of her people have relapsed into indolence 
and vice, and her magnificent palaces are slowly 
falling into decay. 

The public buildings are numerous and splendid. 
The most important of the churches is the Cathe- 
dral of St. Mark. The foundations of this church 
were laid in 977 ; but it was not entirely completed 
until mi. It is built in the form of a Greek 
cross, with the addition of porches. While it was 
building, every vessel returning from the East to 
Venice was obliged to bring pillars and marble for 
its construction. The principal front is 170 feet 
wide, and has 500 columns of various shapes and 
colors. Over the central vestibule stand the cele- 
brated bronze horses which were brought from the 
hippodrome at Constantinople when that city was 
taken by the Crusaders. They are said to have 



The Arseital — Bridge of Sighs. 161 

been cast twenty-seven years before the birth of 
Christ. In 1797 they were carried to Paris by 
Napoleon, but were restored in 18 15. The inte- 
rior of the church is exceedingly beautiful, the floor 
is of tessellated mosaic work, and the walls and 
columns of different kinds of marble. 

In nothing is the past greatness of the Venetian 
Republic better illustrated than in the Arsenal, a 
large building on an island in the eastern part of 
the city. It is surrounded by extensive ramparts. 
Near the principal entrance stand four lions in 
bronze, which were brought from Greece in 1685. 
At one time 16,000 workmen were employed at the 
Arsenal. At the close of the eighteenth century 
many of the curiosities of the model-room were 
destroyed by the revolutionists, among them the 
Bucentoro, the vessel in which the doge annually 
espoused the sea. This ceremony was intended to 
illustrate the dominion of the republic over the 
Adriatic Sea. 

One of the most imposing public buildings is 
the ducal palace. This palace contains many mag- 
nificent rooms, and is enriched with splendid paint- 
ings, some of which are among the earliest speci- 
mens of oil painting on canvas. Opposite the 
palace, and connected with it by the Bridge of 
Sighs, are the public prisons, capable of containing 
500 persons. At the right of the Cathedral of St. 
Mark is a lofty bell tower, ninety-eight metres high, 
11 



162 Around the World. 

built in 1494. It contains a curious clock, above 
which are two large bronze figures which strike the 
hours upon a bell. I also visited the museum, the 
Academy of Fine Arts, and the glass manufac- 
tories. Up to the close of the last century, Venice 
was the teacher of Europe in the manufacture of 
glass, and her wares were the most perfect and 
elegant in use. All kinds of glassware can be 
seen here, from the daintiest bijoutry to the largest 
French plate mirror. 

I was importuned on every side to purchase ex- 
pensive presents for my friends of the feminine 
persuasion in America ; but, as much of my journey 
was yet to be accomplished, and with the inevitable 
custom house always looming up before me, I 
resolutely declined to handicap myself with more 
luggage. The guides, of course, were always 
anxious to assist the salesmen in disposing of their 
wares, and for this assistance they generally receive 
commissions. The hotel which leads all others in 
Venice is the Hotel de Italy, a stately structure of 
two hundred rooms. Accommodations can be had 
for fifteen francs per day. The dining tables were 
beautifully decorated with glassware. The popu- 
lation of the city seems to be a mixture of almost 
every element and every nationality, and numbers 
about 144,000. 

On the 26th of October I left Venice for Flor- 
ence, which is ten hours' ride from the former city. 



Bologna — Florence. 163 

Midway between the two cities is Bologna. This 
city is about two miles long, and a mile and a half 
broad ; it is surrounded by a high brick wall, and 
has twelve gates. The streets are generally 
narrow and crooked, but clean and well paved ; 
the houses mostly three stories high, and all public 
and private buildings built of brick. It has a 
population of 160,000. This city contains no less 
than 130 churches, the largest of which is San 
Petronio, an unfinished but splendid structure, 
which dates from 1390. Bologna has long been 
famous for its sausages and its soap, its manufac- 
tures comprising many other varieties of articles 
as well. It is the birthplace of many famous men, 
and is very ancient. It is said to have been 
founded by an Etruscan king. 

From Bologna to Florence the road runs over a 
mountainous country, and we passed through 
twenty-four tunnels, some of them very difficult of 
construction. Florence is situated on both sides 
of the River Arno, which here flows through a 
wide valley. On the north the city is bounded by 
spurs of the Apennines, on the south by low hills 
belonging to the same range. The climate is 
salubrious. The situation and surroundings are 
extremely beautiful, the soil in the vicinity is 
remarkably fertile, and corn, vines and olives cover 
hill and valley ; while the mountains, which rise 
3,000 feet above the city, are covered with cypress, 



164 Around the World. 

chestnut and pine. The country is noted for its 
abundance of flowers. 

The Florentines are gentle and courteous in their 
manners, and were seemingly the most refined peo- 
ple on the southern side of the Alps. The city is 
well supplied with parks and squares. The Casino, 
a large extent of ground planted in long avenues 
of trees, is the fashionable resort of the nobility of 
Florence. The Boboli Garden, which belongs to 
the royal palace, is open twice a week to the public, 
and, with its statues, fountains, terraces and trim 
alleys, is the delight of the Florentines. The 
streets are paved with stone, which for centuries 
has been obtained from quarries south of the city. 

There are many stately and beautiful mansions 
here, and among the most princely structures is one 
belonging to Mackay, the Nevada Silver King. 
Florence contains over 170 churches, among the 
most remarkable being the Badia, or ancient abbey ; 
the cathedral, Sta. Maria Novella, San Marco and 
the Annunziata. These churches are very ancient, 
and of enormous size. 

The Art Gallery contains some of the finest paint- 
ings in the world, including several of Raphael's 
and Titian's masterpieces. A room called the Tri- 
bune contains the greatest treasures of the gallery, 
and here are placed the most celebrated statues of 
antiquity. The Egyptian Museum is small, but 
contains many objects of interest. The Museum 



From Florence to Rome. 165 

of Etruscan Art, which is situated under the same 
roof, contains a collection of ancient mosaics and 
bronze, the most important of which is a life-size 
bronze statue. It also contains a marble Greek 
sarcophagus. 

The Campanile, or bell tower, of the Cathedral, 
was commenced in 1334. This tower is 275 feet 
high and 45 feet square. It is entirely veneered 
with black, red and white marble, and has five 
stories. On the basement story are two ranges of 
tablets in relief ; one representing the creation of 
Adam and Eve, the other the seven virtues, the 
planets and the seven sacraments. Take it all in 
all, Florence is one of the most beautiful and inter- 
esting cities in Italy, and generally one of the first 
visited by travelers. 

From Florence to Rome is a seven-hours railway 
ride over a mountainous and barren region, desti- 
tute of timber, and unfit for cultivation. On this 
route we passed many ancient and picturesque 
ruins. The first thing I did on arriving at the 
Eternal City was to select my guide ; and here let 
me remark that, although in Rome, I did not 
always do as the Romans did. 

The first object of interest which I visited was 
the Cathedral of St. Peter, the mother of all 
churches, at least so far as size and grandeur are 
concerned. The interior of this church is 602 
English feet long, and 445 feet wide at the tran- 



166 Around the World. 

sept. The circumference of the circle of pillars 
which support the dome is 232 feet, and the cupola 
is 193 feet in diameter. From the pavement to the 
top of the cross the dome is 430 feet in height. It 
is encircled and strengthened by six bands of iron ; 
it is surmounted by a balustrade six feet high, and 
adorned with statues representing Christ and the 
Apostles. The interior is magnificent ; it is orna- 
mented in bronze and mosaic. Near the altar are 
several gilded portraits of the ancient popes, which 
have long Latin inscriptions on them. On the floor 
of the church are figures marked giving the dimen- 
sions of the large churches in the world, these prov- 
ing conclusively that St. Peter's is the largest of 
them all. The building of this church, from its 
foundation, in 1450, until its dedication, in 1625, 
occupied a period of 1 75 years. Visitors congre- 
gate here from every part of the world. 

Next to St. Peter's, one of the most imposing 
and interesting structures is the Vatican, or papal 
palace. This palace, which is one of the most 
magnificent in the world, is rather a collection of 
separate buildings than one regular edifice. It 
occupies a space of 1,151 by 767 feet, and has over 
200 staircases, 20 courts, and 4,422 rooms. Many 
of the rooms are decorated with frescoes by famous 
artists. It contains a gallery of statues, a museum 
filled with the relics of the ancient inhabitants of 
Italy, and a picture gallery which has more treas- 



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168 Around the World. 

ures than any other gallery in the world, although 
the whole catalogue only numbers fifty paintings. 

The Capitol, on the famous Capitoline Hill, is 
chiefly remarkable for the collection of art it con- 
tains within its walls. The two Capitoline museums 
are very rich in classical sculpture, bronzes, coins 
and pottery. Prominent among the many statues 
is a colossal figure of Mar-forises, the river god. 
There are many squares in the city consisting of 
small paved areas, generally adorned with fountains 
and monuments. The fountains are numerous, 
and form one of the most attractive features of the 
city. They are plentifully supplied with water by 
three aqueducts which yet remain in operation of 
the many that poured their streams into the ancient 
city. 

The Piazza Colonna is one of the finest open 
spaces in the city ; it is ornamented with a gilt 
bronze statue of St. Paul, which is 135 feet high. 
At the Piazza di Pietra can be seen the ruins of 
the Temple of Neptune. The Church of the 
Twelve Apostles is also called the Church of Con- 
stantine, after the name of its founder. Under 
the portico can be seen the fine monument of 
Vopato, and the figure of an eagle brought from 
the Trojan Forum. The Roman Forum, Campus 
Vaccino, was formerly used as a market place, and 
contains many ancient and interesting ruins. 

On the Palatine Hill are the remains of the 



" The City of the Seven Hills" 169 

palace of that name. The gardens are open to 
the public on Sundays and Thursdays. They are 
generally thronged with visitors. The ancient city 
of Rome was originally founded on this hill, and, 
as the city grew, it spread over several of the 
adjoining eminences, and finally became known as 
"the City of the Seven Hills." The Lateran, a 
museum of classical sculpture and early Christian 
remains, was, until the fourteenth century, the resi- 
dence of the pope. In this museum were fine 
statues of Hercules and Neptune. The Pyramid 
of Cestius is a grand sepulchral monument, built 
of concrete, and faced with white marble. It is 
118 feet high, and contains a small chamber deco- 
rated with stucco. On the marble facing is an 
inscription in large letters stating that this is the 
tomb of C. Cestius. 

The Circo Agonalis is one of the largest open 
spaces in Rome, and was probably formerly used 
as a circus. It is ornamented with fountains, and 
has other interesting features to attract visitors. 
Palace Spadra contains a collection of antiquities, 
pictures and statuary, among the latter a statue of 
Aristotle in a sitting posture. The Collosseum is 
one of the most interesting of the Roman ruins. 
It has been stripped of its exterior ornamentation, 
the interior is entirely dismantled, and much of the 
outer wall has been carried off for the sake of the 
material ; but it still remains a most imposing and 
sublime ruin. 



1V0 Around the World. 

The city is divided into ancient and modern 
Rome. Ancient Rome is a city of traditions, and 
full of historical interest. At one time it covered 
a circuit of thirteen miles, and embraced a popula- 
tion of nearly 2,000,000. Corso street was the 
principal street in old Rome. Extensive ruins, 
magnificent palaces and public buildings testify to 
her former greatness. Ancient Rome was built 
on a series of low-lying hills, while the modern 
city is built chiefly on still higher land. The 
streets are clean, well paved and well lighted. 
The principal business streets are full of life and 
activity ; but for hundreds of years to come the 
old city will prove the attraction to travelers and 
tourists. 

In no other city did I see a wider constrast be- 
tween wealth and poverty ; one portion of the 
population living in opulence and splendor, the 
other in rags and filth. The streets are filled with 
beggars, and venders of small wares, all struggling 
with the problem of existence, presenting a novel 
scene of confusion to the stranger. 

It would require volumes, and years of research, 
to do justice to this old city ; and, as my time was 
limited to the space of a few days, I am unable to 
give a detailed account of much that would prove 
of interest. 

The following was written to the author's home 
paper, the Modesto Herald: 



Correspondence. 171 



LETTER FROM ROME. 

Special Correspondence of the Herald. 

Rome, Italy, Oct. 15, 1885. 

Editors Herald : — I must send you a few more lines about my 
rambles in the Eastern hemisphere. Since I wrote you from Switzerland I 
have been interestingly sight seeing on the Continent of Europe, and have 
traveled thousands of miles on land and water as fast as express trains and 
steamers could carry me. I have crossed the Baltic and the North Seas. 
In Norway I remained the longest and traveled the most. I find that country 
consists chiefly of fjelds, fosses and fjords. From Christiania to Doverfjeld 
the picturesque scenery is extremely grand, and presents to the eye a pano- 
rama. I also traveled extensively in Sweden and Denmark. These countries 
are densely populated ; but I found no great attractions for tourists to feed 
their eyes upon. I have been over the length of the whole German Empire, 
by two different routes, and have been in all the leading cities, including 
Berlin, Bremen, Stuttgart, Hamburg, Frankfort-on-the-Main, Carlsruhe, 
Hanover, and many others, in my journey. Frankfort, a city of 155,000 
inhabitants, is beautifully located in the heart of a level valley. It has 
wide, well-paved sidewalks, stately mansions, richly furnished stores, and 
the inhabitants equal those of any city of its size in Europe for dress, style 
and elegance. 

Germany, south of Frankfort, is well improved, and the soil of the most 
productive kind, as was shown by the valley being dressed in the finest pro- 
ductions for many miles on the River Rhine. In all Germany, there is a 
fine, level farming country, but destitute of mountain scenery. Next comes 
Basel, the finest city in Switzerland, which country I have also been over 
in two different directions. As I have just recommended Germany for its 
beautiful level valleys, I will reverse my praise to Switzerland for its attractive 
mountain scenery. While Germany has few scenes, Switzerland has enough 
to make up for the whole of Europe, including her Alps and glaciers. She 
has many interesting attractions to sight-seers. A strange feature is that this 
elevated country is not of a rocky character, except on the Alps. Small 
farms may be seen almost to the hill-tops, dressed in green, produce of all 
kinds, and fruits and vines. 

Oxen and women are often seen working together in the fields. Some- 
times see a mixed team of horses and oxen, but seldom more than three in 
number. 

This is the second time I have crossed the Alps. The first was to Aus- 
tria, and this time to Italy. In coming to Italy I passed through the St. 
Gothard Tunnel, the longest tunnel in the world. As the railroads are built 



1^2 Around the World. 

much on elevated ground, it gives the tourist a fine view of the many scenes, 
from the pyramidic peaks to the glittering streams at the foot of the great 
A'ps, and rugged chain of mountains. As a consequence the railroad tunnels 
are many, and difficult of construction. Some of them are made in the shape 
of loops, and in corkscrew style. 

After leaving the Alps, the first city I sighted in Italy of importance was 
Milan. It has a population of 300,000, and is a great terminal point for 
railroads. Here I found many points of interest, but did not see the place of 
cremation. From Milan I resumed my journey to Venice. The country on 
this route is mainly attractive for its moist, rich soil, and thickly planted in 
fine rows of trees and grape-vines. I begin to think I have struck the Para- 
dise of Europe. The city of Venice I find located in the Adriatic Bay, 
several miles from the mainland, built on small islands, and it is said to be 
one of the oldest cities in the world. It has 144,000 inhabitants. The main 
street in Venice is the Grand Canal, where little steamers take passengers and 
goods and land them at their doors. Hundreds of other small row boats, or 
gondolas, are used in smaller streets and alleys to convey people and their lug- 
gage to any part of the city. No horses or vehicles are seen or needed here. 
The chief attraction here is the fine glass works and the St. Marquis Square. 
It is said to be the finest square in the world. Next is the Bell Tower, ninety- 
eight metres high ; the Royal Palace, the Doge's Palace, the Grand Museum, 
the Hotel de Italy and the Grand Opera. These are some of the leading 
objects in Venice. The city is full of porters and runners lying in wait to 
squeeze the loose change from the traveler. 

From Venice to Florence was ten hours' run on the cars. A large por- 
tion of this was over a broken and mountainous country. We went through 
twenty- four tunnels before we arrived in FLorence. This city has 160,000 
inhabitants. I was much impressed with the beautiful location and appear- 
ance of Florence; and, after I had my Italian guide along to point out and 
show me all the fine arts and leading points of interest over the city, I con- 
cluded I had at last found a good second to Vienna, in Austria. 

From Florence to Rome was seven hours' run over the roughest country 
I have found in Italy. At last in Rome, and I must do as the Romans do. 
Among the grandest attractions in Rome are St. Peters, and the Pope's Palace, 
or the Vatican. The many departments and galleries of fine arts, painted 
and ornamented in gilt and bronze, are the grandest sights I ever saw. 
Nothing in London or Paris can compare with this imposing edifice, nor do 
I expect to see in my whole trip around the globe the grandeur I see here in 
Rome. St. Peter's Church is the largest in the world, ornamented also in 
gilt and bronze. St. Paul's is the next largest church. Rome has five hun- 
dred church buildings, and it is full of statues, sculptures, fountains and 



Naples and its Surroundings. 173 

museums. I have paid my guide five francs per day to take me all over the 
city, and show me the ruins and points of interest, until I am satisfied that 
this is Rome, Rome. So soon as I see the Pope, the monks, the marquises 
and counts, I will resume my journey to Naples; and, when I have done that 
city justice, I will take a steamer for Constantinople, thence to Egypt, and 
extend my travels around the world. When I get to the land of the Pharaohs, 
you may hear from me again. Osmun Johnson. 

Naples is situated on the northern shore of the 
Bay of Naples, and fanned by the spicy breezes of 
the Mediterranean. It is 169 miles distant from 
Rome by rail, and is the largest and most populous 
city in Italy, having about 600,000 inhabitants. It 
disputes with Constantinople the claim of enjoying 
the most beautiful site in Europe. The Italians 
say: "See Naples and die." While I am not quite 
ready to shuffle off this mortal coil, I am willing to 
admit, that probably no other place in the world 
combines so much natural beauty with so many 
objects of interest to the lover of antiquity. 

Naples is built at the base and on the slope of a 
range of hills which are divided by a ridge into two 
natural crescents. The western crescent is a narrow 
strip of land between Vomero Hill and the sea. It 
is the fashionable quarter, and is most affected by 
foreign residents and visitors. The eastern crescent 
is by far the largest as well as the oldest part of 
Naples, and includes the ports, the arsenal and the 
principal churches. A magnificent view, both of 
land and water, can be had from the hills, which 
form a background to the city ; though the city it- 




(174) 



Vesuvius — The Blue Grotto. 175 

self is seen to the best advantage from the water, 
and the approach from the sea is famous for its 
loveliness. 

Naples has most interesting surroundings. In 
the near distance is Mount Vesuvius, which pre- 
sents a scene of matchless grandeur. It has been 
in action at intervals for 1,900 years. Its first 
eruption is said to have occurred in 79 A. D., at 
which time Pompeii was destroyed. Another place 
of interest is the famous Blue Grotto, on the Island 
of Capri. The scenery throughout this island is 
of unusual beauty, and it is said to have been a 
favorite resort of Cicero, Nero, and other historical 
characters. It is chiefly celebrated, however, as 
the retreat of Tiberius, the last ten years of his 
reign having been spent here. 

Principal among the buildings of especial inter- 
est is the National Museum, better known as the 
Muser Borbonico. This contains a larofe collection 
of household utensils, statues, vases, gold, silver 
and bronze coins, made 79 years after the birth of 
Christ; in fact, everything that would bear removal 
from Herculaneum and Pompeii. It also contains 
a number of celebrated statues, among which are 
those of Alexander the Great, Tiberius and Her- 
cules. This museum is a treasure house of early 
Italian and Roman antiquities. Note-book in hand, 
I followed my guide from room to room, he pointing 
out and explaining the various objects of interest. 



176 Around the World. 

The Egyptian room contains a collection of 
Egyptian furniture, cooking utensils and agricul- 
tural implements, the latter of the rudest construc- 
tion. In viewing this ancient collection, one could 
not but remark on the wide difference which exists 
between then and now. In this room are also many 
fine pictures, including the Farnese Bull. This 
picture is an exemplification of a Greek legend, 
which runs as follows : Dirce, the wife of Lycus, 
King of Thebes, sorely persecuted Antiope, who 
finally escaped to Mount Cithaeron, where her twin 
sons, who were unconscious of their parentage, 
were being brought up by herdsmen. Dirce, who 
had come to the hill for a Dionysiac ceremony, 
proposed that the sons, Amphion and Zethus, should 
tie Antiope to the horns of a wild bull, to be 
dragged to death. They were about to do so, when 
a herdsman announced their relationship, and they 
then tied Dirce to the bull instead. 

The third and fourth rooms are chiefly filled with 
large equestrian statues. Principal among them 
are those of Julius Caesar, Tiberius and Ves- 
pasius, also a fine statue of Nero after a victorious 
battle, and the marble statue of Balbi. A large 
room in the upper story is filled with small bronzes. 
This collection contains a large variety of articles 
suggestive of the domestic life of Pompeii and 
Herculaneum. The mosaic pavements in this sec- 
tion are of peculiar interest. 



In the National Museum. 177 

The collection of sepulchral vases comprises 
upward of three thousand specimens. The gallery 
of painting comprises a collection of masterpieces 
by the world's most renowned artists. In the hall 
of Flora is the Flora Farnese, one of the master- 
pieces of ancient sculpture. The collection of 
ancient glass contains nearly every article into 
which glass can be worked. The library is very 
large, and contains many thousand books in both 
the ancient and modern languages, as well as many 
ancient and valuable manuscripts. I have neither 
time nor space for a detailed description of the 
many wonderful and valuable objects of interest in 
this museum, but have given a brief description of 
those which most attracted my attention. 

Near the museum is an imposing memorial of 
the revolutions of 1799, 1820, 1848 and i860, con- 
sisting of four colossal lions in bronze, and sur- 
rounded by a high iron fence. A few steps from 
here brought me to a public park, which adjoins 
the sea. It is much frequented by tourists and 
sight-seers. One of the main features of this park 
is a lofty statue in the shape of a dome, which is 
ornamented with small sculptures from the base to 
the top. In many directions statues, fountains and 
other interesting curiosities can be seen. Here 
also is the largest church in the city. 

The streets are generally well paved with square 
blocks of lava ; sidewalks, where they exist, are 

12 



178 Around the World. 

nearly always narrow ; the houses are more re- 
markable for their size and solidity than for their 
elegance, and no other city in the world possesses 
such a mass of houses of the same description and 
so densely crowded with all sorts of people. 

The business portion of the city presents a 
most animated and interesting appearance to the 
sight-seer. Owing to the balmy climate, and the 
fondness of the people for out-door life, a great 
deal of the trade is carried on on the sidewalks, 
both in selling and manufacturing goods. One of 
the queer features of this custom is that you fre- 
quently see hundreds of little boys, sitting or 
standing on the walks, and industriously engaged 
in learning a trade. An expert mechanic can be 
had for three francs a day. A laborer receives 
twenty pennies, or forty cents. The streets are 
crowded with venders of worthless wares, who sing 
out at the top of their voices the articles they have 
for sale. The beggars "and guides help to swell 
the number, surrounding a stranger like a swarm of 
bees, and are a source of great annoyance. One 
is forced to the conclusion that Naples, in addition 
to being one of the most interesting cities in Italy, 
is also one of the most annoying ones. 

A great deal of poverty exists among the lower 
classes ; but the people in general seem to be 
happy and contented. They consume little, and 
that little is cheap. For three cents a day a man 



A Brilliant Landscape. 179 

can get his fill of macaroni, and for three cents 
more he can have very good fish or vegetables 
fried in oil. These can be procured at any of the 
innumerable stands of itinerant cooks about the 
streets. 

The upper classes are refined in appearance, gen- 
erally well educated ; as a rule, tastefully dressed ; 
and the men are better looking than the women. 
The scholars and men of science in" Naples are 
celebrated throughout Italy for their devotion to 
their respective branches of study. 

At the Bristol Hotel, which is situated on an 
overhanging bluff, we had a splendid view of the 
busy life on the bay and in the brilliant city. We 
could also see the reflection of the Blue Grotto, 
on the Isle of Capri, twenty miles distant ; and 
Mount Vesuvius, which has been in action for 
nearly two thousand years. In the distance could 
be seen the Mediterranean, the harbor teeming 
with vessels carrying the flags of all nations. 
Naples is justly regarded as one of the most inter- 
esting cities of the world, on account of its classical 
associations, its numerous palaces and public build- 
ings, the picturesque animation of its principal 
streets, and the beauty of its situation. I was for- 
tunate in securing the services of a good guide 
who had all the points of interest at his finger- 
ends. He was sure not to lose me, as I paid him 
the enormous salary of five francs per day. 



180 



Around the World. 



At Naples I had an opportunity of joining an 
excursion party to Gibraltar, and visiting the exten- 
sive fortifications that the world has heard so much 
about. They are certainly formidable. Gibraltar 
is situated on the European side of the narrow 
strait which forms the entrance to the Mediter- 
ranean. The rock, as this promontory is generally 
called, rises abruptly from the low, sandy isthmus 




The Town and Rock of Gibraltar. 

which connects it with the mainland, to a height of 
1,200 feet. The eastern side needs no defense 
beyond its own precipitous cliffs, and the northern 
and southern sides are so steep as to be almost 
wholly inaccessible. The western side slopes down 
toward the water, and here are situated the town 
and the principal fortifications. 

Inside the fortifications are two ranges of gal- 



Gibraltar — Malta. 181 

leries cut out of solid rock, and portholes are cut 
at intervals of twelve yards, and are so contrived 
that gunners are safe from any possible assailant. 
This fortress is almost impregnable ; any fleet of 
modern artillery attempting to take it would find it 
a hard nut to crack. 

The town of Gibraltar is chiefly inhabited -by 
Spaniards. At the time of my visit they were 
suffering with cholera. The whole population, 
whether civil or military, is subject to certain strin- 
gent rules. For even a day's sojourn a stranger 
must obtain a pass from the town mayor; and, if 
he wishes to remain longer, a consul or house- 
holder must become security for his good behavior. 
Licenses of residence are granted only for short 
periods ; but they may be renewed if necessary. 
Gibraltar is a mean-looking town, with narrow 
streets and lanes. The houses are a mixture of 
English and Spanish style. The people may at 
any moment be called upon to give up their houses 
and grounds to the military authorities ; so they 
are naturally deterred from spending much money 
on their dwellings or buildings. 

On this excursion we also visited Malta, one of 
Great Britain's Mediterranean possessions. This 
island is seventeen miles long, and nine miles 
broad at its widest part. We landed at Valetta, 
the capital, which is situated on a splendid natural 
harbor. No sooner had the steamer dropped 



182 Around the World. 

anchor than we were surrounded by a swarm of 
small row-boats, whose dusky boatmen were scram- 
bling and yelling, each endeavoring to get passengers 
to convey to the shore, a distance of about ioo 
yards. For this service they will demand a shilling, 
but, after some hard bargaining and much bicker- 
ing- they will take threepence, or six cents, instead 
of fifty. On landing, we were again surrounded by 
natives of various professions, from a cabman to a 
beggar. However, after selecting a guide, we pro- 
ceeded to view the town. 

The first thing that I observed was that the 
narrow streets were thronged with beggars. This 
annoyance extended to all the Oriental towns. 
Among the places of interest we visited were the 
Governor's palace, a comfortable structure, con- 
taining many portraits and paintings of former 
knights of the island ; and the Cathedral of St, 
John, famous for its rich inlaid marbles, its Brussels 
tapestries and its painted roof, and containing some 
fine paintings and sculpture. We next visited an- 
other church, where we were shown the dried 
remains of a number of priests, some of whom had 
died as recently as 1870. It was customary, when 
a priest died, to put his body in a slow oven, and 
there let it remain for one year, when it was taken 
out and exhibited in the collection. They are now 
prohibited from continuing this custom. 

We inspected the fortifications, which seem 



Return to Naples. 183 

almost impregnable, and visited the Garden of San 
Antonio, where we saw a large quantity of tropical 
fruits, which were growing in profusion. Another 
point of interest is the catacombs, which are hewn 
out of the solid rock, and extend 200 yards under 
the ground. The guide pointed out a chamber 
said to have been occupied by the Apostle Paul. 
Here also is an underground passage extending for 
a distance of seven and a half miles. 

No river, brook or lake exists on this island, and 
it is destitute of forests. Malta is excessively hot 
in summer, and the sirocco prevails, especially in 
autumn. The climate, however, is not considered 
less salubrious than that of other parts of Southern 
Europe, and in the winter it is delightful. The 
atmosphere is so clear that at all times of the year 
the summit of Mt. /Etna, 130 miles distant, may be 
seen during the rising and the setting of the sun. 

On leaving Malta, we returned to Naples, where 
I took the cars for Brindisi, a thirteen-hours railway 
ride from -Naples. Of course, I was locked up in a 
compartment, in English style, which to my mind 
is an uncomfortable one, but which seems to pre- 
vail on both sides of the Alps. This route runs 
principally over an agricultural country occupied 
by the industrious peasant, who seems to prefer 
work to rest, although poorly compensated for his 
labor. In every direction, in field and garden, both 
sexes could be seen toiling in the hot sun. 



184 Around the World. 

The most important cities on this line are Foggia 
and Bari. Foggia is situated near the centre of 
the great plain of Apulia, 122 miles by rail from 
Naples ; is well built, and the main streets are wide 
and clean. It has become a great railway junction, 
just as it was formerly the meeting place of the 
principal roads of the country. It is a staple mar- 
ket for corn and wool, and the corn magazines are 
very extensive, consisting of vaults lined with ma- 
sonry, built under the principal streets and squares. 

Bari is situated on the Adriatic Sea, and is quite 
an important commercial town. The inhabitants 
are skillful seamen, and carry on a large traffic, in 
their own ships, with different parts of the Adriatic. 
The older part of the town is gloomy and irregular ; 
the new portion has wide streets and handsome 
buildings. 

Brindisi is situated at the head of a bay of the 
Adriatic. The streets are narrow and crooked, and 
the town presents a somewhat dilapidated appear- 
ance. Since the restoration of its maritime im- 
portance, which is principally due to the fact that 
it forms the great transit station in the overland 
route to Asia by the way of the Mount Cenis Rail- 
way and the Suez Canal, some improvement has 
taken place. It has some ancient ruins of consid- 
erable interest, principal among which is a remark- 
able column supposed by some to have marked the 
termination of the Appian Way. 



The Mediterranean Voyage. 185 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE MEDITERRANEAN, EGYPT, RED SEA AND 
ARABIAN SEA. 

On the 30th of October I embarked on the 
spacious steamer Gwalior, for Egypt, via Greece. 
The Mediterranean was as calm as a mill-pond, and 
the voyage was much more enjoyable than the one 
over the stormy Atlantic, North Sea or Baltic. 
On this ship were tourists from every quarter of 
the globe, and all ranks were represented, from an 
English nobleman to a California farmer. It 
seemed singular to me, that, out of such a large 
number of tourists, I was the only one who repre- 
sented the " Golden State ;" and, more singular 
still, the only one from America ; and, strangest of 
all, the only one who expected to make an entire 
circuit of the globe. 

This short voyage over the Mediterranean was a 
very pleasant one, as I had many agreeable com- 
panions, and had several most interesting conver- 
sations with some of these aristocratic passengers 
on board the ship. I was the only one who could 
answer the hundreds of questions they found to ask 
in regard to the resources and wonders of Califor- 



186 Around the World. 

nia. It is strange how well a man will remember 
all the good points of his home country when he 
comes to travel abroad, and it did not take me long 
to convey the information that California was 
gifted with all the blessings that Nature could 
bestow. 

I was not far behind my European companions 
in asking questions, for their country and their cus- 
toms were as new and strange to me as were mine 
to them, and I derived much information from my 
new-found friends. Every vocation has its own 
range of thought and talent, and one can hardly 
fail to be interested and improved by an inter- 
change of ideas. In pursuing the ordinary routine 
of daily life, we ofttimes let our thoughts and ideas 
follow one particular channel, and we need to get 
out among our fellow-men and widen our expe- 
rience. We shall then find that much that had 
seemed of importance to us will grow small and 
insignificant. 

The vessel on which I was now traveling, and 
the Kiserhind, on which I made the last and 
longest portion of my journey, belonged to the 
Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company, 
which goes by the name of the P. and O. Line. 
This line runs about sixty large vessels, and is said 
to be one of the safest and most reliable lines 
whose vessels traverse the Eastern waters. Acci- 
dents are almost unknown on this line, even on the 



Dining at Sea. 18V 

Bay of Biscay and the Red Sea, where shipwrecks 
are of common occurrence. 

The traveler will have no trouble in keeping his 
body together, as he is surrounded by luxury and 
plenty. It is the rule on these steamers to have 
five meals a day. Coffee and sandwiches are 
served at 6 a. m., breakfast at 8 a. m., and lunch at 
i p. m. This lunch consists of a long list of dainty 
dishes which will compare favorably with the 
viands served on the Mississippi steamers, which 
once had the reputation of having the best tables 
of any boats in the world. Dinner is served at 
seven o'clock, and this is, of course, the principal 
meal. We were often served with a dozen differ- 
ent kinds of meat, including fowl and fish. The 
evenings were spent in promenading on the deck, 
or in various amusements and pastimes, and at 
9 p. m. sandwiches are again served. 

If the traveler desires any beverage to keep him 
in a good humor, he will find the bar supplied with 
liquors and wines of all kinds, including stout and 
Dublin porter at sixpence a bottle. This bar was 
certainly well patronized, if one could judge from 
the large stock of empty bottles which rapidly 
accumulated from day to day. The cabins, saloons 
and state-rooms on this steamer were spacious and 
comfortable, which is more than can be said of 
many of the steamers which sail on Eastern seas. 
Two of the worst habits in which sea-going people 



188 Around the World. 

generally indulge, are intemperance and profanity. 
The former seems more prevalent on English, and 
the latter on American, steamers. Swearing, by 
either officers or crew, is strictly against the rule 
on the English passenger lines ; but there seems to 
be no objection to their drinking to their hearts' 
content. On the American vessels the rule seems 
to be reversed ; as I saw very little tippling, but 
the crew, from the captain to the cook, indulged in 
profanity on all occasions. 

The first country we approached after leaving 
Italy was Greece. This country is small in space, 
but wonderful in physical advantages, and the 
beauty and variety of its scenery are unequaled. 
The coast line is broken by numerous bays and 
harbors, which give it unusual maritime facilities. 
The climate is salubrious, the soil fertile, and 
olives, figs, and other tropical plants grow luxuri- 
antly. The methods of tilling the soil are still 
primitive, and modern imolements are not em- 
ployed to any extent. 

This little kingdom has been subject to more 
than its share of turmoil and strife ; but at present 
it is blessed with prosperity and peace. Want of 
time prevented me from visiting Athens, the great 
political centre of the country. ■ The cities at 
which we stopped were Navarino, Zante, Candia 
and Ghazze. After leaving the latter place, Greece 
soon faded from our view and we had had our 
last glimpse of Europe. 



Egypt. 189 

As we neared the land of the Pharoahs the water 
was dotted with sailing craft of every description. 
Vessels of all kinds were seen on everyside, from 
the stately man-of-war to the boat of the Algiers 
pirate. I noticed that nearly all nations had their 
men-of-war stationed in the ports of the Mediter- 
ranean to look after their subjects and the interests 
of their respective countries. We soon sighted the 
low coast of Egypt, and I was to have my first 
glimpse of the Orient. 

The first port at which we stopped was Alex- 
andria. This city was founded by Alexander the 
Great, 332 B. C. The ancient city contained mag- 
nificent buildings, and was for centuries the centre 
of commerce and of learning. Few of the remains 
of the ancient city are now visible. Among the 
most striking is the column called " Pompey's 
Pillar." It stands on a mound of earth about 
forty feet high, has a height of ninety-eight feet, and 
consists of a single piece of red granite. The 
greatest drawback to Alexandria is the shallow 
and uncertain harbor, where it is often a difficult 
task for vessels to get in and out. The population 
numbers 250,000, and is of a very mixed character, 
consisting of people of nearly every nationality. 

I visited the museum, which is filled with Egyp- 
tian antiquities and many curious relics of an ancient 
civilization. My Arabian guide kept me moving 
from object to object. I also visited the various 



190 Around the World. 

mosques, and many ancient and curious ruins, — 
sights which, at first interesting, after a time be- 
come monotonous. 

From Alexandria to Cairo is a distance of 150 
miles by rail. Cairo is the capital of Egypt, and 
is situated on the east bank of the Nile, about 
twelve miles from the apex of its delta. The 
Nile is the chief natural feature of Egypt, and the 
yearly inundations are the great feature of the 
country. With the exception of a few fertile 
oases, nearly all the cultivated land of Egypt lies 
in the valley and the Delta of the Nile. Twelve 
miles above Cairo the river separates into two 
streams, which continue to diverge until they reach 
the Mediterranean, where they are nearly eighty 
miles apart. The triangular space enclosed by the 
two branches of the river is called the Delta. 

The soil is unsurpassed in fertility, and its rich- 
ness is annually renewed by the inundations of the 
river, which deposits on the land a coating which 
enriches the soil. In many parts plowing is dis- 
pensed with, the seed is thrown upon the mud, and 
sheep or pigs turned loose in the fields to trample 
in the grain. On this annual inundation depends 
the success of the crops, as, by either falling or 
rising too high, it causes much damage and dis- 
tress. 

Cairo is partly on a plain and partly on the 
lower slopes of a rocky range of hills. The cita- 




(191) 



192 Around the World. 

del stands on an eminence 250 feet above the level 
of the city, and the view from its ramparts is one 
of great beauty and magnificence. On the eastern 
side the Desert of Sahara extends almost to the 
gates of the city. 

In every street I chanced to stroll, I was sur- 
rounded by beggars, and they tormented me the 
most of any of this class that I ever had *the mis- 
fortune to meet. No matter which way you turn, 
they keep following you, shouting backsheesh, back- 
sheesh; and, were it not for the fact that they are 
innumerable, one would be glad to give them the 
money they demand, in order to get rid of the 
sight of their dusky faces. They are clothed in 
rags, and covered with dirt and filth. 

Cairo is an interesting city to tourists. It is 
walled off into quarters, deriving their names from 
the character and condition of their occupants. 
The houses of the poorer classes consist of miser- 
able mud hovels, which are generally filthy and 
dilapidated. The houses of the wealthy citizens 
are generally very elaborate and elegant. A wind- 
ing passage leads through an open doorway into 
the court, in the centre of which is a fountain 
shaded with palm trees. The principal apartment 
is generally paved with marble. 

Among the important public buildings is the 
University of Islam. The students are said to 
number 11,000, and the majority of them are pre- 



Cairo — The Great Pyramid. 193 

paring for the priesthood. They are taught 
theology, the exposition of the Koran, the tra- 
ditions of Mahomet, and are well grounded in civil, 
moral and criminal laws With the exception of 
professors of literature, few Egyptians are taught 
to read and write. The women are very rarely 
taught- to read. The palace of the Khedive is a 
stately and imposing building. The city has 500 
mosques, of which the most magnificent is the 
Mosque of Sultan Hassan, dating from 1357, and 
famous for the grandeur of its porch and cornice. 
The Mosque of Tulon was founded in 879, and 
exhibits some very ancient specimens of architec- 
ture. The citadel was built in 1 166, but has since 
been frequently altered. It now contains a palace 
and a mosque erected by Mehemet AH on the site 
of Joseph's Hall, in the centre of which is Joseph's 
Well, which is sunk in solid rock to the level of 
the Nile. Bazaars, temples, shrines and old ruins 
are numerous. 

Here can be seen people of every nationality, 
sect and creed, and the population presents a very 
picturesque and interesting appearance. The ma- 
jority of the streets are narrow and irregular, 
although in the newer portion of the city an effort 
has been made to straighten and widen them. 

I next visited the pyramids, which rank among 
the grandest wonders of the world. They are 
about eight miles from Cairo. The Great Pyramid, 
13 



194 Around the World. 

or Cheops, as it is called, from the name of its 
builder, dates from 2,300 years before the birth of 
Christ, and was built at an enormous expense. It 
is 450 feet high, and covers about twelve acres of 
ground. My guide informed me that it required 
300,000 men and twenty years to build this vast 
structure, and that 100,000 men were employed ten 
years in constructing the causeway by which the 
blocks of stone were transported from the quarries 
to the banks of the Nile, from whence they were 
taken in boats to the other side. Here these 
pyramids have stood through all the succeeding 
centuries, defying the elements, and remaining as 
perpetual monuments of the greatness of a by- 
gone civilization. 

As I desired to make the ascent to the top of 
the Cheops, I secured the services of three Arabs 
for the sum of two and one-half francs apiece to 
aid me in the undertaking. Two of them were 
occupied in pulling me up by the hands, and the 
third boosted me from behind. The ascent from 
the foundation to the top consumed eleven minutes, 
including the intervals of rest. From this height 
we had in one direction a fine view of the beautiful 
valley of the Nile, dotted with groups of trees, 
and covered with green fields ; on the other side 
lay the Desert of Sahara, — as far as the eye could 
reach, a limitless waste of sand. 

As I stood gazing out over the country, my 



The Sphinx — The Nile. 195 

thoughts traveled back over the long line of years 
to the time when Joseph was the ruler of Egypt, 
and this was the land of the Pharaohs ; and in 
imagination I could see the waving fields of corn 
which grew in the seven years of plenty. But 
these people have long since crumbled into dust, 
with only here and there a monument left to mark 
the scenes of their former greatness. 

Near the Cheops are two smaller pyramids, vary- 
ing in height from 250 to 350 feet, but large 
enough, however, to do justice to any country out- 
side of Egypt. Here, also, is the Sphinx, with its 
head turned toward the Nile, carved out of solid 
granite rock, and supposed to represent King 
Cephren, the builder of the second pyramid. The 
soil has accumulated around the base until only 
the head and shoulders are visible above the sand. 
To my mind, the Sphinx is fully as interesting as 
the pyramids. 

In traveling in Egypt, one finds that camels and 
donkeys are largely used as a means of transporta- 
tion by both the stranger and the native, and the 
tourist who is desirous of visiting the sights and 
objects of interest in the surrounding country has 
no difficulty in obtaining an outfit and putting his 
desires into execution. 

From Cairo we took a trip up the River Nile as 
far as the First Cataract. This I very much 
enjoyed, as it enabled me to get an insight into the 



196 Around the World. 

life and customs of the Arabs who live along the 
banks of this famous and beautiful stream. I 
shall not soon forget these dusky denizens of 
Egypt, if for nothing else than their begging pro- 
pensities. They were certainly the most intoler- 
able nuisance that I had come in contact with dur- 
ing my journey. I also visited the island of 
Rhoda, a short distance from Cairo. It was on 
the southern shore of this island that Pharoah's 
daughter discovered the infant Moses. I had 
intended, on leaving Cairo, to visit Jerusalem and 
its historical surroundings ; but at that time the 
cholera was rapine there, and I thought it best on 
that account to give up a journey which otherwise 
promised so much of interest and profit. So, with 
much regret, I left Egypt without visiting the 
sacred city, but still hope to be able to do so 
sometime in the future when I have again earned 
a recreation. 

From Cairo to Suez is a four-hours railway ride 
over a level and uninteresting country. Camels 
laden with packs, and driven along by their Arab 
masters, were the chief sights on this route. The 
city of Suez is situated on the Red Sea, at the 
southern end of the Suez Canal, and is 140 miles 
from Alexandria. It stands in a desert. The 
population, which numbers about 1 2,000, is a mix- 
ture of European and Oriental races. 

The Suez Canal is eighty-eight miles long, and 



Suez Canal and the Red Sea. 197 

extends from Port Said, on the Mediterranean, to 
Suez, on the Red Sea. It passes through two 
lakes, Lake Timsah and the Bitter Lakes. These, 
however, were dry before the cutting of the canal. 
The channel through the lakes was excavated 
partly by hand labor, and partly by dredging ; the 
remainder of the canal was cut out through the 
desert. This canal is one of the greatest of modern 
enterprises, was constructed at a vast expense, and 
shortens the distance for ships traveling from West- 
ern Europe to Asia 3,751 miles, which is a saving 
of thirty-six days on a voyage. 

There is a constant stream of vessels passing 
through this canal, and a heavy tax is levied on 
each vessel for the privilege of going through it. 
The stockholders gather in an enormous revenue 
from this investment. The city of Suez owes its 
prosperity to this canal, as a large number of steam- 
ships anchor here, and it is a connecting point for 
travelers visiting Africa, Europe, Australia and 
India. From the lighthouse a panoramic view can 
be had of the long and rugged ranges of mountains 
on both the Arabian and African sides of the Red 
Sea. 

At Suez I embarked on the floating palace 
Kiserhind, a vessel belonging to the P. and O. Steam- 
ship Company. The anchor was raised, and we 
were soon speeding away over the Red Sea. The 
first point of historical interest we passed was the 



198 Around the World. 

place where Moses, leading the children of Israel, 
is popularly supposed to have crossed, when pur- 
sued by Pharoah. If Pharoah and the Egyptians 
were drowned in the Red Sea, they certainly had a 
salty grave, as this sea is said to be the saltiest 
water in the world, with the exception of the Dead 
Sea and the Great Salt Lake. On the Arabian 
side is a well called Moses' well. This well is much 
frequented by tourists, and the waters are said to 
be very bitter. The next point of interest was 
Mount Sinai, where Moses received the ten com- 
mandments. Aside from its historical interest, this 
mountain and its surrounding peaks are impressive 
in their sublimity. From a distance it has the 
appearance of a long, red streak in the Arabian 
mountains, and is apparently barren of vegetation. 
The hot rays of the sun, shining upon it, gave it a 
smoky, hazy appearance. 

The first two days sailing over the Red Sea the 
fervid African sun poured down upon us, and the 
heat was almost unendurable. The thermometer 
registered ninety-five in the shade at 7 a. m. In 
my state-room, at midnight, the heat was almost 
enough to suffocate me, and the perspiration 
poured from every pore. A sea voyage of this 
kind is more to be endured than to be enjoyed, 
especially in the warm season of the year. I was 
told that persons in delicate health had died from 
the effects of the heat while crossing- this sea. The 



Down the African Coast. 199 

lady passengers, seated in their easy-chairs, spent 
most of their time on the hurricane deck, where 
they were protected from the blazing sun by a can- 
vas awning. We spent most of our time trying to 
catch a breeze, which was about as scarce as green 
grass on the Desert of Sahara. 

However, on this occasion, the heat was of but 
short duration ; for, suddenly, the smooth, calm sea 
was swept by a raging storm, which sent most of 
the passengers to their berths, and sea-sickness pre- 
vailed with the majority. But for once I did not 
succumb, and reported regularly at the table when 
meal time came around, not always an easy thing 
to do in a heavy gale. This storm occurred near 
the Gulf of Aden, where, a few months before, two 
steamers were swamped, and, with the exception of 
one man, all on board were lost. However, acci- 
dents are expected to occur here at any time, as 
this is a treacherous sea, full of rocks and islands, 
where vessels have been stranded, and shipwrecks 
are of frequent occurrence, especially during the 
monsoon season. In the last few years they 
have begun to erect lighthouses on the various 
islands, and these beacons of light, shining out 
over the dark sea, will prevent much disaster in the 
future. 

There is not much in the way of scenery along 
the shores of the Red Sea. There is generally a 
narrow, sandy plain along the coast, backed by 



200 Around the World. 

ranges of barren mountains, abrupt in outline and 
of moderate height. We passed a group of twelve 
islands called the Twelve Apostles, which are 
named accordingly. As the smallest island is 
almost covered up in the sea, and the waters in its 
vicinity are consequently more treacherous and 
dangerous to vessels, it is therefore called Judas 
Iscariot. There are several physical features 
about this body of water from which its name may 
have been derived, one being the abundance of red 
coral, and another the red fish which abound in its 
waters. The Red Sea is about 1,200 miles long, 
and 200 miles broad at its widest part. 

The last object which attracted our attention 
as we steamed into the port of Aden was the 
Island of Perim, which divides the sea into two 
channels, called respectively the Great and Little 
Channels. The former is ten miles broad, and the 
latter narrow and shallow. This island is a bare 
black rock, three miles and a half long, and 
probably a little over two miles wide. It is almost 
destitute of vegetation, and is without water. 

Aden belongs to Great Britain, and is one of the 
coaling stations of the P. and O. Steamship Com- 
pany. It has a population of about 35,000, and 
considerable trade is carried on here in the products 
of Arabia, such as coffee, gum, feathers, pearls and 
ivory. Coal, for the use of the steamers is its 
most valuable import. One of the principal occu- 



Arabian Sea — Indian Ocean. 201 

pations of the inhabitants seems to be begging. 
In this art I found them not far behind their 
Egyptian brethren. They also have trinkets and 
jewelry to sell, for which they expect to receive 
many times their actual value. 

On leaving Aden, we had a long sea voyage 
before us, as our next destination was Colombo, in 
Ceylon. We passed through the Gulf of Aden 
into the Arabian Sea, then out upon the Indian 
Ocean, and found traveling much pleasanter on 
this body of water than on the sultry Red Sea. 
We had on board several passengers of high rank, 
among the most noteworthy being Lord Byron, 
a relative of the famous poet ; and Lord Car- 
rington, the newly appointed Governor of New 
South W T ales, in Australia. There were also other 
lords and noblemen of more or less importance, 
who were going as representatives of the English 
Government to India and China, and themajority 
of these gentlemen were accompanied by their 
wives. They all helped to swell the number of 
what I believe to be one of the jolliest lot of pas- 
sengers that ever sailed in the Oriental seas. We 
devised various amusements and entertainments to 
fill up the time, and break the monotony of the 
slowly passing days. 

We traveled at the rate of about 275 miles a 
day, passing Cape Guardafui, on the African coast, 
and the Island of Socotra. The country in the 



202 Around the World. 

vicinity of the cape is said to be inhabited by can- 
nibals. In this torrid climate the evening - is the 
pleasantest part of the day ; for, as soon as the 
tropical sun begins to ascend the horizon, the cabin 
and state-rooms become uncomfortably warm, and 
the majority of the passengers ascend to the hurri- 
cane deck, where they are somewhat protected from 
the sun's rays by the canvas awning, and try in 
various ways to while away the long hours. Some 
are engaged in reading or writing ; others, in spin- 
ning yarns about the past, or telling conundrums. 
Some are speculating on the latitude or longitude 
we are in, on the depth of the sea or the height of 
the barometer ; wondering how many miles we 
traveled yesterday, and whether we are going to 
have a storm to-morrow, etc. And so the days go 
by until the novelty wears away and the jokes 
grow stale. We begin to tire of new friends, and 
long for the old, familiar faces. We weary of the 
seemingly boundless waste of water, and sigh for a 
glimpse of land. We grow impatient for new 
sights and scenes. 

On this voyage we had several preachers aboard, 
and, as a natural consequence, had religious services 
on Sundays. Every Sunday at six bells, or eleven 
o'clock, the fire alarm was sounded, and the crew 
hurried out in full force, and, for a brief space of 
time, the decks were a scene of great confusion. 
This, of course, was in every case a false alarm, 



Ceylon. 203 

but was part of the ordinary routine, as it is neces- 
sary to keep the crew well drilled, so that, in the 
case of a genuine fire, they will be able to obey 
orders promptly and efficiently. Of all the calam- 
ities liable to occur at sea, fire is the most to be 
dreaded, and every precaution is necessary to be 
used to guard against it. Finally, after a voyage 
of 3,500 miles from Suez, we entered the harbor of 
Colombo. 

Here we drew a sigh of relief, and hailed with 
joy the termination of a long and somewhat peril- 
ous voyage. We had crossed the barren deserts 
of Egypt, endured the heat on the Red Sea, and 
stood the racket of the monsoon on the Indian 
Ocean ; so that now the prospect of landing on 
terra firma, and enjoying the shade of the dense 
masses of tropical foliage, seemed pleasant indeed. 



204 Around the World. 



CHAPTER X. 

CEYLON AND INDIA. 

As soon as the steamer cast anchor, we were 
surrounded by natives, each in his rickety little 
boat, who swarmed the harbor like sea dogs, and 
looked about as rickety as their boats, which are 
long and narrow as a canoe. They kept up an 
incessant yelling and scrambling, each trying to 
secure his share of the passengers to convey to the 
shore. In a short space of time, after entrusting 
yourself to one of these wretched little boats, you 
are landed on shore. For this service the boat- 
man will charge you a half a rupee, or twenty 
cents. If you do not come up to his expectations 
in the matter of an extra fee, you are threatened 
with a ducking. Should the boat capsize, it 
would have no more effect on the natives, who 
are principally Singhalese, than throwing a cork 
into the water. They are apparently not born to be 
drowned. 

On landing, you are importuned by guides and 
half-naked beggars, both an unmitigated nuisance 
in their way. On the streets you are followed by 
venders of curios and cheap jewelry. The latter 



Colombo. 205 

they try to palm off as genuine jewels, and charge 
enormous prices in proportion to their actual 
value ; and, should the unwary traveler allow him- 
self to be beguiled into purchasing the wares of 
the dusky merchants, he will depart from the Island 
of Ceylon a sadder and a wiser man." 

Colombo is the commercial metropolis, and at 
present the capital, of Ceylon, and has a mixed pop- 
ulation of over 100,000. The people consist of 
descendants of the Portuguese and Dutch, who 
have both at different times controlled the island, 
Singhalese, Chinese, Arabs, Persians, Parsees and 
half-castes of all colors. There are a large num- 
ber of English residents, many of them belonging 
to noble families. They are mainly dependent on 
mercantile or political occupations, although some 
of them are planters. This city lies north of the 
Equator, in latitude seven. Tropical fruits and all 
kinds of vegetation grow luxuriantly. On ap- 
proaching the city, one would scarcely believe that 
it could contain such a large population, as many 
of the native dwellings are merely small huts which 
are hidden from view by the overhanging palm and 
cocoanut trees. 

One of the greatest enterprises of Colombo is 
the magnificent breakwater lately constructed by 
the British Government, the first stone of which 
was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1875. Vessels 
can now lie at anchor in safety in this harbor, even 



206 Around the World. 

when the monsoon is at its worst. Among the 
places interesting for a stranger to visit are the for- 
tifications, the barracks, the parade ground, the 
cinnamon gardens, the museum and the clock 
tower. I also visited the prison, and had a conver- 
sation with Arabi Pasha, the noted Turkish Gen- 
eral who was captured in Egypt by the English, 
and sent to Ceylon, where he is detained as a 
prisoner. He is a large man, and has a very de- 
termined appearance. 

In the various countries I had visited, I had 
ridden in the vehicles peculiar to each country, and 
I was now about to enjoy the privilege of riding 
in what, so far, was to be the most novel of them 
all. This consisted of a clumsy sort of a cart 
drawn by a buffalo, and, of course, driven- by a 
native driver. I paid my half-rupee to the driver, 
boarded the cart, and started to inspect the suburbs 
of the city at the rate of about two miles an hour. 
This particular buffalo was as docile as a kitten, 
and about as swift as a snail. The driver looked a 
great deal wilder than the steed. The least I can 
say for this expedition is that it made up in novelty 
what it lacked in comfort. In Ceylon, buffalo, 
native oxen, or cows, generally take the place of 
the horse, and are usually driven single in a clumsy 
kind of a cart. 

The Singhalese are, as a rule, well formed, and, 
were it not for their brown skins, good looking. 



Native Life in Ceylon. 207 

They are more intelligent than any other of the 
Oriental races, and most of them have more or less 
knowledge of the English language. Ceylon was 
the only country in the Orient where I could travel 
to good advantage without an interpreter. The 
native food is similar to that used by the Chinese, 
and cooked and served in about the same manner. 
Rice, fish, tea, and different kinds of bread-fruit 
are their staple food. 

As Ceylon is situated in the tropics, very little 
clothing is needed, and very little used by the 
natives. The peculiar costume of the women at- 
tracts considerable attention from the stranger, and 
they resemble our Indian women in their fondness 
for brilliant colors. Before you get fairly acquainted 
with the feminine style of dress, you will hardly be 
able to distinguish the men from the women. 
However, if they do not beg, you may be pretty 
sure that it is a woman, as the men are nearly all 
inveterate beggars. The children have no costume 
to attract attention from any one. You can see 
them playing or running along the streets entirely 
destitute of clothing of any kind. It requires 
very little time, however, to become accustomed to 
these things, which at first seem so peculiar, and 
ere long one ceases to notice them at all. 

From Colombo, I visited Kandy. This town is 
situated in the interior of Ceylon, seventy-five miles 
by rail from Colombo, and over 1,700 feet above 



208 Around the World. 

the level of the sea. The road between the two 
places is remarkable for its beauty, and the won- 
derful engineering skill shown in its construction. 
On the last thirty miles of this road, there are 
eight tunnels, the track winds around the mount- 
ain tops, and, with each succeeding mile, the 
scenery grows wilder and grander. We pass peak 
after peak, until Bible Rock, which towers hundreds 
of feet above them all, is left behind, and we find 
ourselves nearly 2,000 feet above the level of the 
sea, in one of the most picturesque countries in the 
world. Here we had a commanding view of rice 
fields, coffee and tea plantations, which are situated 
on steep hillsides and in deep gulches, and every- 
where could be seen the natives busily engaged in 
tilling the soil. As I gazed on this beautiful trop- 
ical panorama, I concluded that I had at last found 
something to equal in grandeur Cape Horn in the 
Sierras, the Alps, and the grand mountain scenery 
in Norway. 

Kandy is beautifully surrounded by hills ; it is 
built around the margin of an artificial lake con- 
structed in 1806 by the last king of Kandy, and is 
situated in the heart of the coffee and tea planta- 
tions. Tropical fruits grow in profusion. Here 
can be seen the cinnamon tree, the cocoanut, the 
pine-apple and the bread-fruit. This fruit the na- 
tives boil, using it largely in the place of bread. 
The palm, with its spreading branches, affords a 



Buddhist Temple and Relics. 209 

fine shade ; and the lantena, a species of berry 
fruit, grows rank all over the island. 

Among the most striking objects of interest at 
Kandy are the temples, of which there are sixteen, 
twelve Buddhist and four Brahman. Of the 
Buddhist temples probably the one most worthy of 
mention is Dalada Malagawa, as it claims to be in 
possession of a tooth of Buddha. I was shown the 
casket which contains the tooth, which has been 
guarded for centuries as a memento of the famous 
teacher. Ceylon was converted to Buddhism 500 
B. C, and may properly be called a Buddhist coun- 
try, as the majority of the Singhalese, who number 
seventy per cent, of the population, are Buddhists. 

When I visited the temples the priests very 
politely and willingly showed me their images and 
sacred curiosities ; but from the time I entered the 
temple and commenced my investigation of the 
sacred relics until I left it, the priests followed me 
around with musical instruments, which to my mind 
resembled cow-bells and tin horns, and beat the 
tom-tom until I was almost distracted with the 
noise. I was frequently enjoined not to touch the 
images or relics, as they were all sacred ; but the 
priests themselves, I found, were not too sacred to 
beg. After they had got all the pennies they could 
possibly squeeze out of me, I was led out through 
a succession of iron doors in a grandly ceremonious 
style, followed up in the meanwhile by the beating 

14 



210 Around the World. 

of the tomtom. This was a visit that I have no 
longing to repeat. 

The only hotel in Kandy is the Queen's Hotel, 
which is kept partly in European and partly in the 
Oriental style. The servants were natives. The 
charge at this hotel for accommodations was six 
rupees, or three dollars, a day. A native servant 
lies down in the hall outside the bedroom, acting, I 
suppose, as a body guard. I had my mind and 
eyes as much on the guard as on the thieves, from 
which he was supposed to be a protection. How- 
ever, he expected to be tipped with a few annas for 
this service, on my departure from the hotel. This 
detestable custom of feeing the servants, which 
prevails in France, Italy and Egypt, also extends 
to every country in Asia. 

The first thing that attracted my attention upon 
my arrival in Kandy, was the absence of white men. 
The streets were black with natives, who came 
swarming around me trying to sell their worthless 
trinkets, and, when I positively refused to buy, then 
they would begin to beg. I was very much inter- 
ested in studying the manners and customs of the 
natives and their life, both in town and on the plan- 
tations. The problem of life is a serious, and to 
me an interesting, study. 

Many travelers are afraid to venture into the 
interior of the Oriental countries on account of 
the treachery of the natives, and are content with 



Interior of Ceylon. 211 

visiting the seaport towns, and keeping along the 
beaten line of travel. On several occasions I have 
had European tourists agree to visit interior places 
with me ; but in every instance, when the time 
came to start, they would " fly the track," and say 
that it was too dangerous, that we might be mur- 
dered, etc. For my part, I would about as soon 
stay at home as to be obliged to follow closely in 
the beaten track of other travelers. I like to di- 
gress ; a little danger and uncertainty gives spice 
to an adventure. However, when I saw the 
timidity with which other travelers viewed these 
trips into the interior, I concluded that I deserved 
some credit for bravery. 

Since 181 7 the entire sovereignty of the Island 
of Ceylon has been in the hands of the British, 
and they controlled the principal forts along the 
seaboard as early as 1 796. I have noticed that 
law and order seem to prevail in all of Great 
Britain's possessions, and Ceylon is no exception to 
this rule. The natives seem to be perfectly satisfied 
with their strict but good government. The gov- 
ernment of Ceylon maintains a large number of 
public schools, and there are also schools under the 
management of the Roman Catholics and other 
missionary bodies. I was told that the Singhalese 
children are, as a rule, very bright, and learn the 
English language quite rapidly. Some of the 
wealthier natives send their sons to Oxford to be 



212 Around the World. 

educated. I had an interview with a Singhalese 
graduate who had just returned from that institu- 
tion, and had been awarded an important position 
by the British Government. Native students are 
often given official positions when qualified to fill 
them, and are thus encouraged to perfect them- 
selves in a knowledge of the English language and 
English institutions. 

Ceylon is now, like the balance of British India, 
on the high road to civilization. Nearly all of the 
producers of the islands are English planters, who 
employ native servants at very meagre wages. 
A sixpence a day is the most that is paid for ten 
hours' work. The natives, however, do not seem 
to need much money, as they are not at all enter- 
prising, and are satisfied with a mere existence. 
Food is obtained at a trifling expense, and in this 
warm climate much clothing is not needed. These 
European planters have rather a fine thing of it, as 
they have been enabled to purchase this land at a 
very low price, and native labor is so extremely 
cheap. 

Ceylon is rich in resources, and well able to sup- 
port her population of 3,000,000. In addition 
to her tropical fruits, rice and coffee plantations, 
she has some mineral wealth. In the western and 
southern portions of the island, iron exists in large 
quantities, and is of excellent quality. In many 
places it crops out at the surface in a state of great 



Various Resources of the Island. 213 

purity. From time immemorial the Singhalese 
have been accustomed to work the ore into tools ; 
and, although the means they employ are rude and 
imperfect, they manufacture articles which are 
esteemed by them far above those imported from 
Europe. The rudely worked Singhalese iron is 
equal in temper to the finest Swedish metal. Nat- 
ural deposits of common salt are found in many of 
the provinces. It is also produced by artificial 
means in large quantities. 

Extensive pearl fisheries exist off the northern 
part of the western coast of Ceylon. The banks 
on which these oysters are found are situated at a 
distance of from sixteen to twenty miles from the 
shore, and extend north and south for many miles. 
The fisheries are conducted by the government, 
which sells the oysters in heaps of 1,000, as they 
are landed from the boats. In some parts of the 
island precious stones are met with in great abun- 
dance, the most valuable of which are the ruby, the 
amethyst, the sapphire, the cat's-eye and the car- 
buncle. Moonstones, cinnamon stones and gar- 
nets are found in great abundance and variety. 

In the hill country every valley and open plain 
is made to yield its crop of grain, and the steep 
sides of the hills are cut into terraces, on which 
are seen waving patches of green rice watered 
from the mountain streams. Tobacco is exten- 
sively cultivated in various parts of the island. 



214 Around the World. 

The cultivation of coffee is one of the most impor- 
tant industries, as the soil and climate of Ceylon 
are capable of yielding an excellent quality of this 
product. 

Probably the most valuable tree which grows on 
this island is the cocoanut palm. The plaited 
leaves of this tree serve as plates and dishes, and 
as a thatch for the cottage of the native. The 
dried leaves are used as torches, and the large leaf- 
stalks for garden fences. The trunk of the tree 
sawed up is employed for every possible purpose: 
its fruit, when green, supplies food and drink ; when 
ripe, it yields oil. The fibre of the cocoanut is 
worked up into a kind of yarn and cordage called 
cori, which is admirably adapted for use in salt 
water. The trading vessels of this country em- 
ploy no other cordage or rope but this, and the 
planks of the small vessels are often held together 
by cori yarn, without the aid of a single nail. 

The following review of the voyage from Egypt 
to Ceylon, with some other items, is reprinted from 
the Modesto Herald : 

LETTER FROM CEYLON. 

Special Correspondence to the Herald. 

Kandy, Ceylon, Nov. 4, 18S5. 

Editor Herald: — A few more lines about my movements in the 
Oriental world. 

After sight-seeing among the mysteries of Egypt, I resumed my journey 
to India, and embarked at Suez on the magnificent steamer Kiserhind, 
belonging to the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company. The line is 
said to be the safest of any line that runs in the Eastern waters. Accidents 



Letter from Ceylon. 215 

are almost unknown to this line, even in the Bay of Biscay, or on the 
treacherous Red Sea, where shinwrecks have been of frequent occurrence. 

The town of Suez, on the south end of the canal, has a mixed population 
of 12,000 inhabitants. Here is a general anchorage of steamers where 
passengers make connections and selections for their destination. From 
Suez we enter the Red Sea. The first two days out the African sun was 
almost unendurable. It is hot, without a breeze, the thermometer standing 
ninety in the shade at 8 o'clock A. M., and at midnight, in my state-room, I 
was soaked with perspiration as though I had come out. of a sweat-box. 
Under such circumstances a sea voyage is only to be endured, but not 
enjoyed very highly. However, this extreme heat was only of short dura- 
tion, as we were soon surprised and comforted by a raging storm and breeze 
that washed the hurricane decks, and sea-sickness was the result. Many of 
the passengers were feeding the fishes; but on this voyage I was not one of 
them, as I reported regularly at the table. The storm was near the Gulf of 
Aden, where a steamer was swamped last June, and all the lives were lost 
but one man. The next day the storm subsided to a usual calmness. The 
Red Sea is 1,200 miles long, and from 60 to 175 miles wide, and it is said to 
be one of the saltiest bodies of water in the world. The leading historic 
objects of interest on the Red Sea coast are Mount Sinai, where Moses 
received the law, known as the Ten Commandments, and a well where the 
Arabs frequent, and which they call the Well of Moses. The water of this 
well is bitter. 

Ceylon has a mixed population of 3,000,000, composed of the dusky 
races. Kandy, seventy-five miles from Colombo, has many attractions for 
the tourist and sight-seer. The city is situated amid rolling hills, and sur- 
rounded by coffee plantations and luxuriant gardens of tropical fruits and 
trees. The Buddhist Temple is the grandest of all the objects to be seen in 
Kandy. The peculiar constructions of the railway and the scenery along 
the line from Colombo to Kandy on the upper forty miles are the grandest 
in the world. The hill country of Ceylon is bright with the rich green of 
tropical plantations, and presents many interesting landscapes. 

Notwithstanding the heat in this tropical climate, I have found my 
travels enjoyable and interesting, and I have formed many pleasant acquaint- 
ances both on land and water. But a long, long letter of credit I have 
found to be the most useful companion. 

From here I will visit many interesting points in India, thence to Aus- 
tralia, and extend my journey to Japan and China. I anticipate arriving in 
San Francisco about the 15th of January, and will have traveled in all 
about 50,000 miles, and thus have completed the circle around the world. 

Osmun Johnson. 



216 Around the World. 

After extended traveling along the sea-coast and 
interior of Ceylon ; after viewing her scenery and 
resources, from Peduratallagalla, her loftiest mount- 
ain, 8,280 feet high, to the coffee plantations in the 
deepest gulches, — I took the steamer at Galle for 
Madras, a distance of 700 miles. This city is 
situated on the eastern coast of Hindustan, ranks 
third among the ports of India in respect to the 
number and tonnage of vessels stopping there, and 
the value of its exports and imports, and carries on 
trade with every part of the world. Madras has 
a population of about 500,000, which includes 
Europeans, Hindus, Parsees, Mohammedans and 
a mixture of many other races. 

As this city has no harbor, passengers must be 
transferred quite a distance in small surf boats, 
which are propelled by natives. As there is a 
heavy surf breaking on the shore all the time, the 
landing is too dangerous and difficult to be inter- 
esting. Here I saw a curious way of transferring 
the mail to the shore. Should the vessel enter the 
roadstead in a sea so heavy that the small boats 
can not effect a landing, the natives tie a pair of 
logs together, on which they ride to and from the 
boat. The mail bags are tied on to their heads. 
Should they roll off the logs, it would produce 
about the same effect on them that it would on a 
duck. Upon landing on shore, you are immedi- 
ately surrounded and beset by beggars and guides. 



From Madras to Calcutta. 217 

Here you see the traveling chair, or two-wheeled 
Jin-rik-ishia, which is used in China and Japan. 
The natives who propel these vehicles are not be- 
hind the best of their Asiatic brethren in extortion 
and attempts to fleece the unwary stranger. 

The leading manufacturing industries are the 
manufacture of silk, lace and Indian shawls. These 
goods can be purchased here at astonishingly low 
prices, mainly due to the cheapness of labor. As 
baggage has to go through the custom house so 
frequently, and import duty is imposed on articles 
of this kind, it is not best to accumulate too much 
at even low figures. One of the principal attrac- 
tions in the city is the museum and the menagerie, 
where can be seen the wild animals common to 
India. Among the places I inspected were the 
fortifications, the Government House, the numerous 
and imposing mosques, the temples and the native 
shops. The lighthouse, which is 125 feet high, is 
visible from a ship's deck fifteen miles at sea. 

From Madras to Calcutta, the capital of India, 
is a distance of 750 miles, and a three-days journey 
by steamer. Calcutta is situated on the east bank 
of the River Hugh, about eighty miles from the 
sea-coast. It has a population of a million souls, 
composed of representatives of nearly all the 
Asiatic races, and a large number of Europeans. 
It derives its name from the village of Kalighat, 
on account of the great mortality which existed 



218 Around the World. 

there for many years. It was identified in the 
mind of the mariner with Golgotha, the place of 
skulls. It is now sometimes called the City of 
Palaces, a name which it richly deserves, as the 
streets, in the European quarter especially, are 
lined with magnificent structures. Among- the most 
costly buildings are St. Paul's Cathedral and the 
Government House, each erected at a cost of about 
half a million dollars. 

The most interesting of all sights in Calcutta is 
the shipping. The Port of Calcutta extends ten 
miles along the Hugli ; the average width of the 
channel is 250 yards, and it has moorings for 169 
vessels. At the railway terminus on the Hourah 
side of the river is an immense floating bridge, 
which was built at a cost of over a million dollars. 
It is constructed on pontons, and affords a con- 
tinuous roadway for vehicles and foot passengers. 

In the Zoological Gardens can be seen nearly 
every kind of animal peculiar to India. The 
Botanical Gardens contain all varieties of tropical 
plants, and are an attractive place to visit. I also 
visited the fortifications, the art galleries and the 
museum. I strolled through the native portion of 
the city, which is densely populated, and was much 
interested in what I saw of Hindu life, also in the 
Oriental shops, the temples, shrines and mosques, 
of which there are a large number. 

The three great religions in India are Buddhism, 



Buddhism. 219 

Mohammedanism and Brahmanism. Throughout 
twenty-two centuries the Brahmans have been the 
counselors of the Hindu princes, and the teachers 
of the Hindu people, and they were the depository 
of the sacred books, the philosophy, the science 
and the laws of the ancient Hindu commonwealth. 
In the sixth century B. C, Buddha appeared, 
and gained many followers. Buddhism has co- 
existed with Brahmanism for more than a thousand 
years. As a religious founder, Buddha left behind 
him a creed which has gained more disciples than 
any other system of beliefs in the world. After a 
lapse of 2,400 years, it is professed by 500,000,000 
people, or more than one-third of the human race. 
Mohammedanism was born in Arabia about 600 A. 
D , and soon spread over a vast portion of country. 
It never gained a strong foothold in Southern 
India, but had many followers in the Northern 
portion of the country. It is to be hoped that the 
clay may come when the worship of idols of brass 
and stone will be discontinued. 

The English, on assuming the government of 
India, determined as far as possible to administer 
justice in accordance with the existing laws of the 
country ; and, so long as the various religious be- 
liefs do not conflict with justice and humanity, they 
are not interfered with. There are many mission- 
aries in India engaged in the work of christianizing 
the natives ; but, when you ponder on the fact that 



220 Around the World. 

there are nearly 250,000,000 of them to convert, it 
looks as if it would require the combined forces of 
the whole Christian world, and as if scores and 
scores would come and go before such a result 
would be accomplished. The press and the rail- 
ways will be important factors in the work of 
civilization. 

India is the great granary of Asia, and a formi- 
dable rival to the wheat producers of California, 
and, in fact, of the whole United States. It has 
been conjectured that the total area under cultiva- 
tion to wheat in India is equal to the area cultivated 
to the same crop in the United States. The 
quality of the grain is high enough to satisfy the 
English millers, and "Calcutta Club No. 1" 
commands a price in Mark Lane not much below 
that of the finest Californian cr Australian wheat. 

Railway communication is rapidly extending all 
over India, and there are already some 13,000 
miles of road in operation. Tourists can now 
travel by rail from the foot of the Himalaya 
Mountains to the southern extremity of Cape 
Comorin. India has four great rivers, the Indus, 
the Ganges, the Irawadi and the Brahmaputra, all 
flowing through broad valleys, and from time imme- 
morial the chief means of conveying the products 
of the interior to the sea. The competition 
naturally existing between river craft and the rail- 
roads is conducive to cheap transportation. In 



Transportation of Wheat. 221 

the delta of the Ganges River, navigation attains its 
highest development. The population may be 
regarded as half amphibious. In the rainy season, 
every village can be reached by water, and every 
family keeps its own boat. 

Since the construction of the Suez Canal, the 
distance from Bombay to Liverpool is much shorter 
than from San Francisco to Liverpool by the way 
of Cape Horn. This makes a difference in the 
cost of transportation, and wheat can be carried 
from India to England much cheaper than from 
San Francisco to England. This has a correspond- 
ing effect on the price. Another fact in favor of 
our Indian rivals is that the Hindu cheap labor can 
be had on the sea as well as on the land, as Indian 
sailors can be employed for eight rupees, or less 
than four dollars, per month. However, when the 
Panama Canal is finished, the tide will turn in our 
favor, our wheat will have the less distance to 
travel, and transportation will be proportionately 
cheaper. Vessels passing through the Suez Canal 
have to pay a heavy tax on the cargo, and, under 
the present law, they are required to anchor over 
night. This, in most cases, adds one day more to 
the journey, so that, when everything is summed 
up, and we get our canal, the tonnage from India 
to Liverpool will not be so much lower, after all, 
than from California. 

In addition to this, a California farmer, with his 



222 Around the World. 

combined harvester, can accomplish more work in 
one day with four men than an Indian planter can 
with fifty coolies, using the present rude hand im- 
plements. There is great opposition to machinery 
in India ; for there are millions of laborers strug- 
gling for bread, who are willing to work for almost 
nothing. They look upon a machine which takes 
the place of hand labor as an innovation which 
deprives them of a livelihood. The producers in 
the Indian agricultural districts are neither so 
grasping nor so enterprising as our average Cali- 
fornia farmer, and are satisfied with much less. 
Everything is cheap ; the tropical produce and the 
grain, as well as the labor. Planters hire coolies 
to work in the harvest fields at a sixpence per day 
apiece, and at less than that on the coffee and tea 
plantations and in the rice fields. In the Calcutta 
bag factory, wages are but threepence per day. 

India has two great drawbacks. One is that 
communication with the interior districts is often 
attended with great difficulties. As the railroads 
are extending their lines in all directions, this disa- 
bility will soon be removed. The other is the lia- 
bility to drouth. In a country so densely settled 
as India, and where the means of communication 
are so limited, the failure of a harvest must always 
cause much distress. India lies half to the north 
and half to the south of the tropic, and, excepting 
a small fractional part of a mountainous character, 



Fanzines in India. 223 

is subject to great summer heat. Some parts are 
regularly visited by rain in season, and other parts 
are liable to drouth. One season of drouth is gen- 
erally followed by another, and that by a third. 

Out of thirty-one famines during the present 
century, fifteen succeeded each other in three, and 
sixteen in two, consecutive years, while intervals 
between them varied from two to ten years. The 
country has, of course, always been subject to fam- 
ines ; and history relates how in 1031 the Emperor 
Shah Jehan,'and in 1631 the Emperor Aurungzebe, 
tried to mitigate their desolating effects without 
much success. Within the time of the present 
generation several very severe famines have taken 
place. From the year 1848 to 1878 the abnormal 
deaths which occurred in years of famine did not 
fall short of ten millions. It cost the state, to re- 
lieve the starving population during this period, 
not less than 21,250,000 pounds sterling, exclusive 
of several millions in loss of revenue. Irrigation 
and railways have done much to remedy the evil. 

India is a great country, and possesses a great 
variety of resources. British India has a total area 
of about 1,500,000 square miles, and a population 
of 240,000,000. Of the area, nearly 600,000 square 
miles, with a population of 50,000,000, belong to 
the native states not under British administration; 
while the remainder, 900,000 square miles, with 
190,000,000 people, is under direct British rule. 



224 Around the World. 

As my journey around the world was a long and 
somewhat tortuous one, my time for visiting India 
was soon exhausted. Had I been satisfied to fol- 
low in the usual track of travelers, and taken the 
most direct route to China, I would only have had 
to travel 1,700 miles in going from Calcutta to 
Hong-Kong; but I was ambitious to visit Aus- 
tralia, though by going in this roundabout way it 
lengthened the distance something over 10,000 
miles. I wavered a little when I thought of the 
long and monotonous sea voyage, and meditated 
on the fact that it was the typhoon season of the 
year. Still, by taking the longer route, I could 
visit Australia and New Zealand, skirt the shores 
of New Guinea, take in the Philippine Islands, and 
see the extensive coral reefs which exist in the 
Southern waters. I should sail over many seas, 
and see many sights that would be missed by going 
the other way ; so I concluded that the pleasures 
of this trip would overbalance its discomforts ; and, 
bidding good-bye to my friends and traveling com- 
panions, as they were going to continue on the 
direct route to Hong-Kong, I promised, if the 
typhoon did not get the best of me on the China 
Sea (this sea is never known to behave itself), to 
meet them there some time in the future. I em- 
barked on the steamer Enos at Calcutta for 
Colombo, a distance of 1,400 miles over the Bay 
of Bengal. 



The Indian Ocean. 225 



CHAPTER XI. 

THE VOYAGE OVER THE INDIAN OCEAN. 

Colombo is the junction of the P. and O. Steam- 
ship Company, where the various routes diverge 
for Australia, China, Japan or India. On leaving 
here, we had a sea voyage of 5,000 miles before 
us ere we could reach the Australian shore. On 
account of the extreme heat in these tropical coun- 
tries, white linen clothes are worn almost entirely, 
and heavy clothing is of very little use. As a clean 
suit is needed every day, one has to have a plenti- 
ful supply. So, before starting out on my journey, 
I had to see that my clothes were washed and in 
good order for the trip, as this would be my last 
opportunity before reaching Australia. This wash- 
ing process is a somewhat interesting one to look 
at, but very hard on the clothes. Every article 
undergoes a vigorous pounding with a long stone, 
and, if the garments are not of the strongest ma- 
terial, they are unable to stand this ordeal, and 
new ones become a necessity. The expense for 
washing, however (outside of the wear and tear of 
the material), is of small consequence, one penny 
apiece being the regular price charged in all parts 
of Asia for washing and ironing shirts. 

It may here again be mentioned that it is well 

15 



226 Around the World. 

for tourists to be careful about investing in finery 
or curiosities as presents for their friends, as such 
articles are all subject to import duty. Packages 
containing ammunition a-nd liquors can not be 
shipped as baggage, and cases of these articles 
must be accompanied by a declaration that they 
contain no explosive matter. The principal lines 
making monthly trips from Europe to India and 
China are the P. and O., the East India Steamship 
Company, and a French line called Messageries 
Maritimes. These are all reliable and popular 
lines, and make regular trips and connections by 
the way of Suez and the Red Sea ; but between 
Colombo and Australia the P. and O. steamers are 
the ones which run the most regularly. 

Two days out from Colombo we crossed the line 
of the Equator. Here we felt the heat intensely, 
especially when on deck. For several days we had 
the eastern trade wind against our course, and prog- 
ress was slow, 250 miles a day being an average 
run. This portion of the Indian Ocean is desti- 
tute of islands or any object of interest, and there 
is nothing to be seen but the waste of waters, and 
the sky overhead ; so the passengers were thrown 
entirely upon their own resources for amusement. 
At dawn of day we generally had our baths, a daily 
bath being an absolute necessity in this warm 
climate. A custom which to me seemed somewhat 
singular prevails on steamers which sail in these 
waters. In the early morning the ship's officers 



Crossing the Equator. 227 

and the passengers promenade the hurricane deck 
barefooted, and in their light morning clothes. 
They do this in order to get the full benefit of the 
cool morning air before the sun rises. They keep 
up a lively pace for about half an hour, and then 
retire below, where coffee and sandwiches are served. 
About 2 p. m. everybody on board, except the sailors 
on watch, retire to their rooms for an hour's sleep, 
and at four o'clock coffee and sandwiches are again 
served. In addition to this, we had the regular 
meals served at the regular hours. 

On this passage we had on board a jolly lot of 
Indian planters, from whom I gained much valuable 
information in regard to terrace farming, the tropi- 
cal staples ; seeding and harvesting, and the cost 
of each ; the yearly average of the crops, the prin- 
cipal exports, and the crops from which the largest 
returns may be expected. I was told that the cul- 
tivation of tea must largely take the place of coffee ; 
as, next to wheat, the former is the most profitable 
staple of India. Well, what you don't hear aboard 
one of these passenger steamers is not worth hear- 
ing, as you mingle with pilgrims of every clan and 
from every land, hearing a great variety of 
languages, and seeing representatives of nearly 
every industry and profession. Every day's travel 
took us farther away from the Equator ; and, with 
a change of latitude, came a perceptible modifica- 
tion of the temperature, making the remainder of 
the voyage much more endurable and comfortable. 



228 Around the World. 



CHAPTER XII. 



AUSTRALIA. 



After we had been out twelve days, without any- 
especial incident to record except the head wind 
and the extreme heat, we sighted Cape Leeuwin, 
the first landmark of Australia; and on the thir- 
teenth day we cast anchor in King George's Sound, 
a distance of nearly 4,000 miles from Colombo. 
Here we remained twenty-four hours, which gave 
us all an opportunity to go on shore and try terra 
firma once more. We were all very much tanned 
and about half cooked by the heat of the tropics, 
and quite appreciated the change after being tossed 
about by the restless deep for so many days. The 
town of Albany, on King George's Sound, has a 
population of 2,000, all Europeans. This town is 
situated on the southwestern extremity of Australia, 
has no particular object of interest worthy of men- 
tion, and is surrounded by low, barren hills, which 
appear unfit for cultivation. The town chiefly 
exists upon the traffic from the sea. The best 
feature of King George's Sound is that it affords a 
commodious and secure harbor, which could accom- 
modate a much larger fleet than is likely to be 



Australia. 229 

needed to guard English interests and subjects in 
this part of the world. 

It seemed pleasant indeed to be in a civilized 
country, and see white people once more instead 
of the dusky heathen we had left behind in Egypt, 
Africa and India. We could now see churches 
and stores, instead of idols, shrines, and bazaars 
filled with trifles. Here were to be seen a large 
number of enterprising, refined and well-dressed 
people, instead of the lazy and half-naked Oriental 
races, and we could now tread on wide and well- 
paved streets instead of narrow and filthy Oriental 
lanes. Here we could hear church bells ringing 
out the summons to divine worship, instead of 
witnessing the heathen clapping his hands and 
bowing his knees before temples and idols ; and 
we all enjoyed very much the life and bustle inci- 
dent to the transaction of business in this prosper- 
ous little city inhabited by a civilized people. 

Thus far the greater part of my traveling had 
been done on English steamships, on English 
possessions, and in English waters. This govern- 
ment seems to be the power behind the throne in 
nearly all quarters of the globe. Malta, Aden, 
India, Ceylon, Australia, Hong-Kong and many 
other places and islands are in the hands of the 
British. They have standing armies everywhere ; 
their flag flies on every sea, and from men-of-war 
in every port ; their fortifications are numerous ; 



230 Around the World. 

and their soldiers and officers, on land and water, 
can be counted by the million. England is often 
called the " Mistress of the Seas," but maintains 
this supremacy at an enormous expense. 

Our next destination was Port Adelaide, 1,000 
miles distant from Albany. We soon entered the 
Great Australian Bight, and were out of sight of 
land for two days. After three days' sailing, we 
anchored at Port Adelaide, which is seven miles 
distant from the city of Adelaide, and were put 
on shore by a steam tender. The harbor at this 
port is safe and commodious ; but there is a bar at 
its mouth which prevents large vessels from enter- 
ing, the depth of the water varying with the tide 
from eight to sixteen feet. With a few exceptions, 
the harbors on the coast of Australia are shallow, 
which is a great drawback to the prosperity of 
many of the seaports. In case of a severe gale, 
vessels need a safe harbor where they will not be 
exposed to the fury of wind and wave. 

Adelaide is a beautiful city, situated on both 
sides of the River Torrens, which is spanned by 
several bridges. The two portions of the town 
are called North and South Adelaide. South 
Adelaide is the commercial centre of the town, 
and lies on a very level plain on the left bank of 
the river. North Adelaide, the smaller portion of 
the town, contains the chief private houses, and 
occupies a gentle slope on the right bank of the 



City of Adelaide. 231 

river. Adelaide is the capital of the British colony 
of South Australia, and of the county of the same 
name. Its streets are broad, and regularly laid out. 
Among - the most important public buildings are 
the Governor's house, the government offices, the 
Post-Office and the theatre. The principal places 
worth visiting are the Botanical Garden and the 
public grounds, called the Park Lands, which con- 
tain over 1,900 acres. 

Australia is the largest island in the world, — so 
large that it is often called a continent. It is 2,500 
miles in length from east to west, and 1,950 miles 
in breadth from north to south, contains an area of 
about 3,000,000 square miles, and has a seaboard of 
8,000 miles. As it is situated in the Southern 
Hemisphere, the seasons are just the reverse of 
what we are accustomed to. June is a winter 
month, and crops are harvested in December and 
January. The cities in Australia are of modern 
construction, and similar to those in America. 

There are no temples, ruins or shrines, and the 
aborigines of this country, like the North Ameri- 
can Indians, live in rude huts, which are either 
bowers formed of the branches of the trees, or are 
made of piled logs loosely covered with grass or 
bark. In the southeastern part of the island some 
of the huts are larger and more substantial. The 
numbers of the native Australians are steadily 
diminishing ; small remnants of the race exist in 



232 Around the World. 

each province, and a few tribes wander over the 
interior. It is estimated that there are not more 
than 80,000 of these aborigines left on the con- 
tinent. 

The sea-coast, except on the northern and north- 
western shore, is wonderfully devoid of inlets from 
the sea. Along the entire line of the eastern 
coast there extends a succession of mountain 
ranges, and on the western coast there is a series 
of low-lying hills. Off the southern coast of 
Australia the waters of the Indian Ocean com- 
mingle with those of the Pacific. I would have 
needed no other proof than this, had I been skep- 
tical on the subject, to convince me that the earth 
was surely round. I had been traveling east for 
many months, and now was back in the waters of 
an ocean whose waves washed the shores of my 
home in the far-off West. 

From Adelaide to Melbourne is a distance of 
550 miles, which can be traveled either by rail or 
steamer. Melbourne is the most populous city in 
Australia, and is situated at the head of the large 
bay of Port Philip, on the northern bend, which is 
called Hobson's Bay. The spacious, land-locked 
harbor of Port Philip was discovered in 1802, by 
Lieutenant Murray. The city of Melbourne occu- 
pies a space three miles inland, on the Yarrah 
River ; but the suburbs extend along the shores of 
the bay for ten miles. 



The Typical Cabman. 233 

The entire absence of guides and half-naked 
coolie beggars was to me a very pleasant change. 
Instead of being surrounded by these nuisances 
upon my arrival at the depots or wharves, I was 
met by the typical English cabman, his coat glit- 
tering with brass buttons, and his head adorned 
with a plug hat. He was indeed a gorgeous- 
looking individual as he sat on the top of his han- 
som, to which a steed of the Clyde breed was 
attached. The hansom is a peculiar conveyance. 
There is no chance for quarreling with any one 
while riding, as the coachman sits on top, and there 
is only room for one passenger inside, and that 
one must not be an overgrown one. This inside 
space fitted me as snugly as if I had sent my 
measure ahead. For the privilege of riding in one 
of these vehicles, you pay the sum of one shilling 
per mile, if you make your bargain beforehand ; 
if not, you will probably have to pay double that 
amount. Extortion seems to be the rule with cab- 
men and guides of all races and colors, and in the 
cities of all countries, from San Francisco (travel- 
ing eastward) to the shores of Japan. 

Melbourne is the capital of the colony of Vic- 
toria, and is the most populous city in Australia, 
offering, perhaps without exception, the most strik- 
ing illustration of the aptitude of the Anglo-Saxon 
race for colonization. Until the year 1835 no 
white man had ever made his habitation there ; 




(284) 



Melbourne. 235 

and now the spot where the first settler made his 
home in the wilderness is the centre of a great city, 
which is ten miles in length, six in breadth, covers 
an area of 45,000 acres, and has a population of 
283,000 people. This city is beautifully located. 
It is built on nearly level ground, slightly rising 
to the centre from every direction, giving it an 
easy slope for drainage ; consequently it is a 
healthy city as well as a beautiful one. 

At present there is a strong rivalry between 
Melbourne and Sydney, each contending for the 
honor of being the chief city of Australia. Mel- 
bourne has at present 25,000 more people than 
Sydney, and Victoria Colony contains some of the 
best agricultural land in Australia ; there are also 
extensive sheep ranges, and some of the richest 
gold mines of the country, in the vicinity of Mel- 
bourne. Sydney, by virtue of its position, is prob- 
ably destined to be the greater commercial city of 
the two, as it has one of the finest and most spa- 
cious harbors in the world. The surrounding 
country, however, is not so rich as that around 
Melbourne ; it is thickly timbered, too hilly to be 
much of an agricultural country, but is a fine pas- 
toral region, and affords an extensive range for 
cattle. In the near distance is situated the town 
of Newcastle, which is surrounded by extensive 
coal fields. The quality of this coal is said to be 
equal to that of Great Britain for most purposes, 



236 Around the World. 

and it is largely used by steamships navigating the 
Pacific and Chinese waters. 

I have become so interested in these compari- 
sons, that I fear I am digressing - . I will now return 
to Melbourne, and give a little further description 
of the city and its surroundings. The climate in 
the vicinity is considered unusually fine. The only 
drawback is the occasional hot winds, which blow 
from the north for two or three days at a time, and 
raise the temperature until it is uncomfortably 
warm ; but by far the greater proportion of the 
time the sky is clear and the air mild and dry. On 
days when the wind blows, I have seen the tem- 
perature vary from 60 to 1 20 degrees. I had my 
best view of Melbourne and its environs from 
Flagstaff Hill. Its numerous suburbs surrounded 
the city in all directions ; in the distance, on three 
sides, were ranges of hills, and on the fourth the 
waters of Hobson Bay could be seen sparkling in 
the sunlight. 

Notwithstanding its size, Melbourne is by no 
means a crowded city ; the streets are all ninety- 
nine feet wide, and parks, squares and gardens are 
so numerous that it occupies an area nearly one- 
half as great as that of London. The two princi- 
pal streets are Burke and Collins, — the first the 
busiest street in Melbourne, the other containing 
the most fashionable shops. The buildings which 
line these streets are of uniform height, and sub- 



Public Buildings, Parks and Gardens. 237 

stantially built; but you find no such magnificent 
structures as can be seen in the business portion of 
San Francisco, nor does there seem to be the same 
amount of activity and bustle. I had quite an 
argument on this subject with one of Melbourne's 
enterprising citizens who had been deluding him- 
self with the idea that his city was far ahead of 
San Francisco. I quietly disabused his mind of 
this idea, and informed him that it would have to 
grow with all its might for the next twenty-five 
years before it would be as far advanced as our 
Metropolis of the Golden West. 

Among the objects of interest to be seen in Mel- 
bourne are monuments of Burke and Collins, two 
of Australia's most famous explorers ; the barracks, 
the Parliament Houses, the Custom House, and 
the Town Hall, which will seat nearly 3,000 peo- 
ple. In this hall is a colossal organ, on which the 
city organist performs two afternoons in each week, 
the public being admitted at a nominal charge. 
The parks and public gardens are extensive and 
handsome. The Royal Park contains about 600 
acres, and is timbered with gum trees. About 
thirty acres in the centre of this park are beauti- 
fully laid out, and contain a zoological collection. 
The Yarrah Park, which is about 300 acres in extent, 
contains the leading - cricket grounds. Want of 

o o 

space will prevent me from elaborating further on 
interesting features of Melbourne. 



238 Around the World. 

I then visited the western portion of the col- 
ony of Victoria, and saw some good agricultural 
country. Here the wheat is harvested with strip- 
pers of three-horse power ; but larger machines 
are in course of construction. By these machines 
the wheat is stripped of the heads. On the long 
stubble which remains, vast numbers of sheep are 
pastured, and they are often brought, for this pur- 
pose, a distance of several hundred miles from 
the interior. Great attention is paid to sheep 
farming - , as this is one of the leading industries of 
Australia. The price of labor I found to be much 
the same as in California, six shillings, or $1.50, 
per day, being the usual wages paid in the harvest 
season. 

The two principal inland towns were Sandhurst 
and Belrat. Sandhurst is built on the exhausted 
part of the old gold fields of Bendigo. Besides 
gold mining, there are quite a number of local 
industries, including coach building, brewing and 
iron casting. There are nearly 7,000 miners em- 
ployed in the Sandhurst district. Belrat has 181 
mines, some of them 1,000 feet deep; and one in 
particular, known as the Pandora, is 2,000 feet 
deep. If the Pacific coast wants to beat those 
figures, I am afraid she will have to cross the 
Sierras to the Comstock, in Nevada. Silverton is 
the principal town in the dividing range, or barrier, 
where there are rich silver mines. The Belrat and 



Sheep Farming. 239 

Hillman districts contain the richest mines in the 
colonies. Millions of pounds of the precious ore 
have been taken from these mines, and they are 
still worked at a great profit by the fortunate 
owners. 

After inspecting the gold fields, I visited some of 
the sheep plains, or sheep runs, where they count 
their flocks by the hundreds of thousands. I was 
told that these sheep runs contain from thirty to a 
hundred thousand acres, and this amount of land 
is generally owned and controlled by one man. 
Many of these runs I found to be rocky, and, with 
the exception of the timber, apparently barren of 
vegetation. It seemed to me that there were two 
sheep to every blade of grass. This Australian 
grass must be exceedingly nutritious, or such a 
multitude of sheep could not manage to subsist. 
However, at the time that I visited Australia, there 
had been four dry seasons in succession, and all 
kinds of stock were in a starving condition, partic- 
ularly in New South Wales and Queensland, where 
the water-courses had run dry. In fact, most of 
the inland Australian streams dry up early in the 
season, as there are no rainy regions or snow-clad 
mountains in the interior to feed the rivers. 
Drouths are of common occurrence, and the rain- 
fall is very light, probably owing to the low, flat 
character of the country, and the scarcity of high 
mountain peaks along the coast to condense the 



240 Around the World. 

rain clouds, which are consequently blown across 
the country without distilling their moisture. I 
heard the question of constructing reservoirs, to 
catch the water in the rainy season, discussed in 
many districts. In Texas they have cisterns for 
rain water, and catch all they can, keeping it to use 
in time of drouth 

The interior of Australia I found to be thickly 
timbered with large gum trees, the majority of 
them destitute of leaves, and some of bark. In 
many places they were ringed, and left to die and 
rot down. This was to make openings for farmers, 
probably for another generation, when the heavens 
will distribute moisture with a more liberal hand 
than at present. However interested I may have 
been in some of the resources of Australia, I was 
not favorably impressed with it as an agricultural 
country, not only on account of the frequency of 
the dry seasons, but because of the character of 
the soil, which is red and rolling, and has the ap- 
pearance of being heavy to cultivate. It looked to 
me as if farming with the expectation of raising a 
profitable crop would be very much like buying the 
cat in the bag. I found, however, that the Aus- 
tralian residents who had never been in any other 
great wheat-producing country looked on the mat- 
ter in an entirely different light, and from a more 
favorable point of view, Probably I was not an 
unprejudiced observer, as I had been for so many 



Various Resources. 241 

years a farmer in California, a country in which 
crops of all kinds grow to the acme of perfection. 
I also visited several stock farms. I found the 
cattle to be of enormous size, but was not favorably 
impressed with the appearance of the horses, which, 
to my mind, were disproportionately formed, 
although they were said to be descendants of the 
famous Clydesdale stock. 

Take it all in all, Australia is a great and pro- 
gressive country, and has a glorious prospect in 
the near future. Her resources are many and vari- 
ous, and, where she is inferior in one branch of in- 
dustry, she has others which more than compensate 
for the difference. Australia is the greatest wool- 
growing country in the world, and has more coast 
line than any other. Her commercial interests are 
enormous, her coal fields are inexhaustible, and she 
is rich in minerals of every description. Copper, 
tin, antimony, mercury, platina, bismuth, iron, 
galena, quicksilver and shale, which yields kerosene 
oil, are all found in Australia, and she is second 
only to the United States in the extent of her gold 
and silver mines. In the last few years pearl fish- 
ing has become quite an industry in Australian 
seas, and has been carried on with considerable 
success. Good pearls are found in Shark's Bay, 
especially in an inlet called Useless Harbor; mother 
of pearl shells are fished at many points along the 
western coast, and an important pearl fishery has 

16 



242 Around the World. 

been established in Torres Strait, on the coast of 
Queensland. 

After thoroughly acquainting myself with the 
resources of Victoria Colony, I returned to Mel- 
bourne, where I took the train for Sydney, the 
second largest city in Australia, and the capital of 
New South Wales. The distance between these 
two cities is 575 miles; the railway fare, four 
pounds, or about twenty dollars ; the time occupied 
in the journey, twenty-two hours. The railway 
system in the southern hemisphere is on the same 
plan as that of Europe and India. I can never 
cease to express my contempt for the construction 
of the cars, — the same inconvenient, uncomfort- 
able compartments, where there is scarcely room 
enough to swing a cat. Here eight passengers are 
wedged in, the door locked, and we are left with- 
out water or conveniences of any kind until we 
arrive at the stations, which in this country are 
often few and far between, as the road runs 
through new and remote districts. I suppose I 
will again have to admit that I am prejudiced in 
favor of the American system, which I consider 
the most luxurious mode of traveling in the world. 
In these cars, which are much larger and more 
comfortable, the proud, brass-buttoned conductor 
reigns supreme ; you can take items on the physi- 
ognomy of a hundred people if you so desire, 
instead of half a dozen ; you have a stove to keep 



Paying for Learning. 243 

you warm in winter, and ice water to cool your 
parched throat in summer ; and the windows are 
so constructed, that, if you feel disposed, you can 
raise them and put your head out to view the 
heavens or any earthly object. 

In Eastern countries you are always surrounded, 
on arriving at stations, by porters who are always 
more than willing to anticipate your wants, and 
who desire to be remunerated accordingly If the 
tourist does not wish to pay for learning their 
sharp practices, as I have done, he will give them 
a few pence, and they, in return, will lift their hats, 
favor you with a low bow and a sickly smile, and 
let you depart in peace, while they stand in wait 
for the next victim. In Australia, as in Europe, 
young women superintend the bars and lunch 
counters, and, at the large stations, seven or eight 
of these blushing damsels can be seen busily en- 
gaged in attending to the wants of the hungry 
and thirsty travelers. The price of a glass of ale 
or a cup of coffee is threepence, and sandwiches 
are furnished in proportion to the appetite of the 
individual. 

There is very little agricultural land on the route 
between Melbourne and Sydney ; but there is a 
large extent of country where coal abounds, and 
the greater portion of the remainder is devoted to 
grazing purposes. While traveling over this road, 
I talked with a stockman who owned 100,000 head 



244 Around the World. 

of sheep, which were stationed in different places 
on his run. In New South Wales the coal-bearing 
strata cover a very large area in several detached 
portions, the largest of which probably exceeds 
12,000 miles. In the vicinity of Newcastle, where 
the principal workings are, the coal seams vary 
from three to thirty feet in thickness, sixteen seams 
above three feet being known. It is estimated 
that the coal strata in Queensland cover an area of 
24,000 square miles. Very little has been done 
toward their development, the districts in which 
they occur being too far from the settled portions 
of the country. 

This route is not diversified enough to be pictur- 
esque, and is entirely devoid of attractive scenery. 
There are no mountains and dales, the country is 
low, and in many places the soil is stony. There 
are very few high mountain peaks in Australia, the 
highest being Mount Kosciusko, which has an alti- 
tude of over 6,000 feet. The principal attraction 
along the line of this road was -the dried gum 
trees which dotted the country, some of them of 
immense size. The gum trees form the principal 
timber of Australia. There are 400 species of 
eucalyptus, or gum; the blue, the red, the white, the 
spotted, etc. They grow to an immense size, and 
live to be many hundred years old. The most of 
them shed their bark instead of their leaves, and 
some have neither leaves nor bark. Other species 



Sydney. 245 

of timber are the white box, the iron bark, rose- 
wood, sandalwood, tulip-wood and satin-wood. 
These latter are used by cabinet makers for orna- 
mental work. 

Sydney, the capital of New South Wales, is a 
bustling commercial city, situated on rolling hills 
similar to those on which Rome is built. It lies 
on the harbor of Port Jackson, about four miles 
from its entrance. This harbor is completely 
landlocked, and the largest vessels can come close 
to the wharves, thus saving much inconvenience in 
loading and unloading vessels, and in transferring 
passengers from the ship to the shore. For my 
part, I can cheerfully dispense with the little row 
boat which is used to convey passengers from the 
ship's side to the landing, as I do not enjoy the 
drenching which one is frequently treated to in this 
process of transportation The extensive dry 
docks and ship yards at Sydney furnish every 
facility for repairing vessels. The port is well 
defended by several forts and batteries. The har- 
bor is very attractive, being fourteen miles long; 
and the coast very irregular, with numerous small 
bays and promontories, which render it very pic- 
turesque. 

This bay was discovered and the town of Sydney 
founded in 1788 ; but for twenty-five years the set- 
tlers of the colony of New South Wales were only 
acquainted with a strip of country fifty miles wide, 



246 Around the World. 

between the Blue Mountains and the sea-coast; for 
they scarcely ever ventured far inland from the 
inlets of Port Jackson and Botany Bay. The 
climate of Sydney is salubrious ; more rain falls 
here than in the southern colonies. It has a popu- 
lation of about 250,000, mostly Europeans, the 
greater proportion of them being English immi- 
grants. These immigrants are constantly pouring 
into the Australian colonies. Every steamerwhich 
arrives from England is filled with people who are 
seeking home and fortune in this far-off country. 
With the constantly increasing facilities for travel, 
every quarter of the globe will soon cease to be 
remote. 

A new land act has recently been passed which 
is intended to enable immigrants to settle on small 
pieces of land, and to give them ample time to pay 
for their farms, but to discourage and prevent the 
acquisition of large pastoral estates. Out of 
1 7,000,000 acres settled under the old law, only 
3,000,000 are in the hands of bona-fide settlers. 
The remaining 14,000,000 are in the hands of the 
sheep kings. By having all the favorable spots 
that give access to water taken up by his servants 
and tools, the squatter becomes practically the 
owner of his run, which he can extend to any limit 
in the same way. By this fraudulent device, great 
estates of hundreds of square miles have been 
acquired. 



-Public Buildings and the Suburbs. 24V 

The loftiest eminence in Sydney is Flagstaff 
Hill, where a magnificent view can be had of the 
city, its suburbs and the harbor ; and one can even 
see the Pacific Ocean. Among the principal attrac- 
tions in this city are the Government buildings, 
with their extensive ornamental grounds. From 
this point the north shore and the Balmain can be 
seen to good advantage. Macguire street is lined 
by rows of fine residences on one side, and by gov- 
ernment property on the other, is a favorite prom- 
inade, and one of the gayest thoroughfares in the 
city. The Museum, the Public Library, St. Mary's 
Cathedral, and the City Infirmary are all extensive 
institutions. In the suburbs are the City Park, the 
Zoological and Botanical Gardens and Belmore 
Park, all interesting places to visit. One thing 
that struck me peculiarly is the fact that the flowers, 
both the cultivated varieties and the wild flowers, 
seem to be entirely devoid of fragrance. 

The most aristocratic quarter is Potts' Point and 
Vermalon, where the residences may be considered 
a good second to those on Nob Hill, in San Fran- 
cisco. The most opulent citizens of Australia re- 
side here. The leading hotels are the Pettis Hotel 
and the Royal, in St. George street, where you 
can get fair meals and a good bed for twelve 
shillings a day. Pitt street and St. George street, 
the main thoroughfares of the city, have a carriage- 
way sixty feet wide, and are lined with handsome 



248 Around the World. 

shops and churches and other public and private 
edifices. Business of every description is transacted, 
and, from seven in the morning until eleven at 
night, they are thronged with people. 

New South Wales was for many years a penal 
settlement, and the agitation on this subject has 
been the only serious cause of conflict between the 
colony and the mother country. It ended by the 
latter yielding, and transportation was somewhat 
reluctantly abolished. Sydney is well situated to 
control the commerce of the Southern Pacific 
Ocean, occupying a position corresponding to that 
of San Francisco on the Northern Pacific. It has 
a large inter-colonial trade, and also carries on an 
extensive commerce with the United States. It is 
destined, by virtue of its situation, to become one 
of the great seaports of the world. 

My next move was from Sydney to Paramatta, a 
town thirteen miles distant, on the Paramatta 
River. This was an exceedingly pleasant trip, as 
it gave me an opportunity of viewing the pictur- 
esque scenery of the harbor, the islands, and the 
beautiful gardens on the Paramatta River. Para- 
matta is an old town, and of little importance. 
Here I took the cars for the Blue Mountains, in 
the neighborhood of which the grandest scenery of 
Australia is found. The railroad which runs over 
these mountains is called the Zigzag Railway, and is 
constructed on the plan of the letter N. The first 



The Blue Mountain Zigzags. 249 

zigzag, called the Little Zigzag, is thirtyrfive miles 
from the Big Zigzag. The cars travel backward 
and forward before completing the ascent of the 
mountain, which is called the Lapstone Hill. The 
scenery is grandly picturesque, and would do credit 
to the Alps. From this hill we could look over 
the broad valleys into deep gulches, and could fol- 
low with our eyes the windings of the rivers. I 
must not neglect to mention, that, in this zigzag, a 
terrible railroad accident occurred six years ago ; 
two trains collided, and many passengers were 
killed. 

After arriving at the summit, we followed a 
broken chain of mountains for many miles. All 
along the line of the road the country is thickly 
timbered, and to the left we could see far down 
into the valley at the foot of the mountains. The 
most elevated points on this route were Mount 
Ketoomba, which rises to a height of 3,349 feet 
above the sea-level ; Went Falls, situated at an 
altitude of 2,856 feet ; and Mount Victoria, which is 
3,422 feet high. This elevated region is a popular 
resort for Sydney people, who come up here a few 
weeks in December, when the heat is most intense, 
to cool off. The climate is said to be so healthful, 
that, except in case of accidents, people never die. 
Continuing our journey eastward, we soon arrive 
at the Big Zigzag. This is constructed on a steep 
incline of 800 feet, in the form of two N's. On 



250 Around the World. 

emerging from one of the tunnels through which 
we pass, we overlook five tracks, running nearly 
parallel with each other. In addition to the 
beauties of the scenery, there are numerous caves 
which the tourist can visit. Of these the Imperial 
Cave is the most important, and the most fre- 
quented by visitors. 

After rusticating a few days in the Blue Mount- 
ains, I crossed over to Burke, and enjoyed the 
hospitality of the people in the interior of New 
South Wales. Then, having seen all I cared to of 
the inland sights, I recrossed the mountains to 
Sydney. The principal resources in the Blue Mount- 
ains are the hunting grounds and the vast coal 
fields, which extend over a space of 200 miles to 
Newcastle. I was now fully convinced that the 
Southern Hemisphere had at least one wonder 
which could compare with the Yellowstone Park, 
the Alleghanies, Yosemite, Switzerland, or the 
Kandy Mountains, in Ceylon, — places which should 
be visited by all who wish to make a thorough tour 
of the globe, no matter how much pressed for time. 



New Zealand. 251 



CHAPTER XIII. 



NEW ZEALAND. 



Before leaving for China, I concluded to visit 
New Zealand, 1,281 miles distant from Sydney, so 
embarked on the regular mail packet Oakland. 
New Zealand consists of two large islands, called 
respectively North Island and South Island, of 
another smaller one called Stewart Island, and of a 
number of smaller islands and islets. New Zealand 
was discovered by a Dutch navigator in 1642 ; but 
he did not land there. Captain Cook, in 1769, was 
the first European who set foot on its shores. He 
visited the country several times, and circumnavi- 
gated the coast in the course of his three voyages 
of discovery, exploring and partly surveying the 
general outline. He introduced several useful ani- 
mals and plants, including pigs, fowls, potatoes, 
turnips and cabbages. From Captain Cook's final 
departure, in 1777, until 18 14, little is known of 
the country, except that, owing to the cannibalism 
and ferocity of the natives, it was a terror to 
sailors. 

In 1814a church mission was established at the 
Bay of Islands, which was followed by others, and 



252 Around the World. 

both Protestant and Roman Catholic Missions 
were formed. In the course of the following thirty 
years the entire native population was converted, 
nominally at least, to Christianity. There was, of 
course, in after years a considerable relapse ; but 
cannibalism ceased, and the barbarous nature of 
the race became softened, and capable of civiliza- 
tion ; so, as a whole, the results of the missionary 
teaching were great and permanent. 

The Islands of New Zealand have, since 1840, 
been a colony of Great Britain. It was not colo- 
nized in the usual manner, around one common 
centre ; but there were formerly six distinct settle- 
ments, — Auckland, Wellington, Canterbury, New 
Plymouth, Nelson and Otago. For some years 
communication between them was irregular and in- 
frequent. Three provinces are each subdivided 
into counties. The residence of the Governor is 
at Wellington, which is the seat of government. 
The government and Legislature have always been 
disposed to favor native interests, the right of the 
natives to their lands have always been fully recog- 
nized, and no land has been taken from them with- 
out their consent, except in the case of some con- 
fiscated lands which were taken under the authority 
of a special law from rebellious tribes. 

The Governor is appointed by the Crown. The 
Legislative Council, or upper house, consists of 
fifty members who are appointed for life by the 



Government and Education. 253 

Governor. The House of Representatives consists 
of ninety-five members elected by the people. 
Four members of the House must be Maoris, 
elected by their own race, and they arc also en- 
titled to several members in the Council. The 
duration of the House is for three years; but it is 
subject to re-election whenever the Governor dis- 
solves the assembly. Education is free and com- 
pulsory, with certain exceptions, for children be- 
tween the ages of seven and thirteen. Religion is 
not allowed to be taught in any of the schools. 

The country is, to a great extent, mountainous, 
but is interspersed with fertile valleys and exten- 
sive plains, where prosperous farms can be seen 
growing crops of wheat and grain of all kinds. 
Hops are extensively raised in the Province of 
Nelson, which is frequently called the Garden of 
New Zealand. Drouths are almost unknown in 
these colonies, and rain is frequent. In the North 
the greater amount falls during the winter ; in the 
South it is more equally distributed throughout 
the year. Almost every valley and plain is well 
watered by streams flowing from the mountains. 
There are countless streams of the purest water 
in New Zealand, but very few rivers of any depth 
or size. In the Canterbury districts are large runs, 
or stations, where hundreds of thousands of sheep 
are reared. Here also can be seen vast herds of 
cattle and horses, which seem to be roaming at will. 



254 Around the World. 

Gold is found in all parts ; but the principal 
quartz mines are in the Thames and Coromandel 
districts, near Auckland, in the North Island. 
Gold is also found in the river beds and on the 
sea-coast, where it can be worked with comparative 
ease. Good coal is obtained in many parts of 
New Zealand, particularly on the west coast of the 
South Island. There are also rich copper mines 
near Nelson, which are beginning to attract atten- 
tion. Building stone of various kinds and of 
excellent quality abounds. The principal articles 
of export are wheat, wool, barley, oats, flax, hops, 
gum and gold. The industry of freezing and 
shipping mutton has lately been entered into with 
great success. Kauri gum, a valuable product of 
the kauri tree, found in the soil on the sites of old 
kauri forests, and at the foot of growing trees, is 
much used in Europe and America as a base for 
fine varnishes. Fruit of every description abounds. 

The scenery is very picturesque. The mountains 
in the North Island occupy about one-tenth of the 
surface, and are thickly covered with timber. Mount 
Ruapehu and Mount Egmont are extinct volcanoes. 
Mount Tongariro is occasionally active. In the 
South Island nearly four-fifths of the surface is 
covered by mountains, the greater part of them 
open, covered with grass, and well adapted for 
pasture. The Southern Alps run close to the west 
coast the whole length of the island. Mount Cook, 



Scenery — Varieties of Birds. 255 

which is over 12,000 feet high, is the highest peak, 
and has many glaciers. The main range of these 
mountains is crossed at intervals by low passes. 
On the eastern side are extensive agricultural plains, 
and the western slopes are rich in mineral wealth. 

On the southwestern coast are several sounds 
which are surrounded by snow-capped mountains 
rising from 5,000 to 10,000 feet in height. The 
scenery is grand, especially in the vicinity of Mil- 
ford Sound. There are also numerous cascades 
and waterfalls in this section, one of which is 800 
feet in height. In the Province of Auckland, on 
the North Island, are some famous geysers and 
sulphur springs, which are much visited by tourists 
and sight-seers. The waters are warm, transparent, 
and of a beautiful blue color, and are supposed to 
contain wonderful curative power for tubercular 
diseases, rheumatism and nervous affections. 

New Zealand abounds in birds peculiar to that 
country alone, and is particularly remarkable for 
its wingless birds. There are four species of kiwi. 
These birds are a little larger than a hen ; they are 
without wings or tail feathers, have bills like a 
snipe, short legs, and are covered with long brown 
feathers which resemble hair. The kuku is a 
species of owl, and is called by the settlers " More 
Pork," because its cry resembles those words. Par- 
rots are abundant. Great numbers of kaka, a 
large brown parrot, assemble both morning and 



256 Around the World. 

evening on berry-bearing trees, and utter discordant 
screams, which among the natives serve as a signal 
for the beginning and ending of the day's labor. 
The kea, another native bird, has of late years 
developed a fondness for mutton. It flies upon the 
backs of the sheep, and, with its strong bill, tears 
the flesh away until it reaches the fat around the 
kidneys, which is all that it eats. Dogs and rats 
were the only native quadrupeds when the islands 
were first visited by Europeans. There are no 
snakes. A few lizards are found, which are harm- 
less, although they are held in superstition by the 
natives, who think the spirits of their ancestors 
inhabit them. 

The trees are almost all evergreens ; conse- 
quently change of seasons makes very little differ- 
ence in the appearance of the forests. The kauri 
pine, which is found only in the North Island, 
grows to a great size, and is often forty feet in cir- 
cumference. Owing to the lightness and toughness 
of the stem, it is well adapted for masts. The 
totard pine equals the kauri in lightness and com- 
mercial value ; the purri rivals the English oak in 
hardness. 

There are 2,500 miles of railway in New Zea- 
land. In addition to road and railway communi- 
cation, intercourse is carried on between the chief 
ports, two or three times a week, by swift, commo- 
dious steamers. Telegraph wires run through 



The Maoris. 257 

every settled district, and extend to Australia and 
England. There are a line of steamers which 
make regular monthly trips between San Fran- 
cisco and Auckland, and regular mail steamers 
which run between the latter place and England. 
The time consumed in making the trip is 
forty-five days. There are also steamers which 
run between New Zealand and the different 
Australian ports. The distance between Auckland 
and Melbourne is 1,479 miles. For many years 
the government issued free tickets to emigrants, 
and thousands of people from England and Ger- 
many availed themselves of this privilege, and 
made themselves homes in this far-off land. The 
issuing of free tickets has now been stopped, and 
an aid-emigration bureau has been established by 
the government, which assists farmers, and other 
classes of people in need of assistance, with a 
small amount of capital, and enables them to get 
a start. 

The native inhabitants are called Maori. Their 
hair is generally coarse and black, though some- 
times a rusty red ; they have good teeth, a broad 
nose, and brown skin, which in some instances is 
very fair, and in others so dark that it is almost 
black. They are deficient in reason and judgment, 
and have little imagination, but possess good mem- 
ories and quick perceptions. They are fond of 
simple and noisy music, and have an accurate per- 

17 



258 Around the World. 

ception of time. They are vain, arrogant and 
revengeful, hospitable to strangers, affectionate to 
their friends, and observant of their promises ; 
they are dirty and indolent, and formerly worshiped 
gods, to whom they addressed prayers and offered 
sacrifices. Their gods were invisible, many of 
them deified men, ancestral chiefs of the tribe or 
nation by whom they were worshiped. They be- 
lieve in a future state, and that there are two 
distinct abodes for departed spirits, neither of 
which is a place of punishment, as they believe 
that evil deeds are punished in this world by 
sickness and personal misfortune. They are appar- 
ently more industrious and more capable of 
civilization than our American Indians, and are 
now turning their attention to farming and other 
pursuits 

In the bush and back country are thousands of 
wild hogs, the increase from a few that Captain 
Cook let loose when he first landed on the island. 
Auckland is the largest city on the islands, and 
was, until 1865, the seat of government. All of 
the principal cities are well laid out ; the streets are 
broad, and the buildings G f modern architecture. 
Wellington, the capital of the province of the same 
name, and at present the seat of the New Zealand 
Government; is situated on the fine harbor of Port 
Nicholson. It has a number of fine public build- 
ings. The principal hotels are the Occidental and 



The Climate. 259 

the Imperial, at each of which the regular charge 
for accommodations is twelve shillings per day. 
The country is especially adapted to agriculture, as 
it is never subject to drouth, and can always find a 
market for the surplus crops in the sister colony of 
Australia, where drouths are of frequent occurrence. 
New Zealand is nearly antipodal to Great Britain, 
and resembles it in climate, only that it is more 
equable. The summer is longer and somewhat 
warmer than that of England, and the other sea- 
sons much milder. In some districts high winds 
prevail ; in others, the atmosphere is peculiarly 
serene. The climate is said to be the finest in the 
world. New Zealand, with her mild climate, fertile 
soil, fine harbors, extensive and valuable mineral 
deposits, and picturesque and beautiful scenery, is 
destined to rank first among the colonies in the 
Southern Hemisphere. After a pleasant and profit- 
able visit to this country, I returned to Sydney, 
where I embarked on the steamer Airlie (belong- 
ing to the Australian and Eastern Steamship Com- 
pany) for China. 



260 Around the World. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE AUSTRALIAN COAST. 

The distance between Sydney and Hong-Kong 
is 4,500 miles; so I was in for another long sea 
voyage, and the most dangerous one I had yet 
undertaken since beginning my tour. First, we 
had to travel for a distance of 2,000 miles with the 
Australian shore on one side and the Great Barrier 
Reefs on the other, — the most extensive coral reefs 
known in the world. There are frequent and often 
dangerous passages in this barrier which permit the 
entrance of vessels into the sea lying between it 
and the mainland. This body of water varies in 
breadth, fromnits southern entrance, where the reefs 
lie at a great distance from the shore and it is a 
broad, open sea, to its central point, at Cape Tribu- 
lation, where it hardly affords a passage for vessels. 
Going north, it widens again until it stretches far 
away from the coast, and extends across the east 
end of Torres Strait. Many vessels have been 
stranded on these reefs in the last few years. 

Secondly, we had to face the typhoon in the 
China Sea. These winds are generally preceded 
by a peculiar haziness of the atmosphere, and an 



Along the Australian Shore. 261 

ominous stillness. When the storm has arrived at 
its greatest severity, the confusion of the scene is 
almost indescribable; the wind fills the air with a 
deafening roar, and there occur gusts, the violence 
of which equals or exceeds the force of the strong- 
est wave ; everything gives way before this terrific 
wind, and the ship that can weather it is indeed 
fortunate. The Chinese call these storms tae-fun; 
they are of frequent occurrence in the China Sea, 
and many ships are wrecked by them every year. 
To make matters still more dangerous on this par- 
ticular voyage, the ship was loaded down, to within 
two feet of the water's edge, with coal and other 
heavy material. As a large share of this cargo 
was to be distributed at different ports along the 
Northern Australian coast, it gave us ample time 
to take in all the coast towns of New South Wales 
and Oueenstown. 

On leaving Sydney, we steamed down the har- 
bor, and soon found ourselves in the South Pacific 
Ocean. After traveling seventy-three miles, we 
arrived at Newcastle, where we loaded the steamer 
down to the brim with coal to feed the furnaces on 
this long and boisterous voyage. Newcastle is the 
principal seaport town on the northern coast of 
New South Wales. There are two lines of steam- 
ers which run daily between this place and Sydney. 
It is a well built town, and has a population of 
nearly 25,000. The harbor is defended by a fort,, 



£62 Around the World. 

and protected by a breakwater, which renders it 
more easy of access in stormy weather. Besides 
the agricultural produce of the Hunter River dis- 
trict, the principal export is coal. It is a common 
thing for vessels in this part of the world, after 
discharging their cargoes, to go to Newcastle and 
take in a cargo of coal for the return trip. 

After leaving Newcastle, the next city of impor- 
tance we arrived at was Brisbane, the capital of the 
Colony of Queensland. It is situated on both 
banks of the River Brisbane, about twenty-five 
miles from its entrance into Morton Bay, and con- 
sists of four parts, — North and South Brisbane, 
Kangaroo Point and Fortitude Valley. The river 
opposite the town is about a quarter of a mile 
broad, and is navigable for vessels of considerable 
burden. This town was founded in 1825 as a 
penal settlement, and named in honor of Sir 
Thomas Brisbane. In 1842 the penal establish- 
ment was abolished, and colonization set in. Bris- 
bane is a prosperous seaport town, and has a mixed 
European population of about 47,000. It is 
backed by vast mineral resources, and also by 
extensive pastoral districts, where sheep farming is 
largely engaged in. 

The chief gold-mining towns in Queensland 
are Palmerville, Ravenswood, Charter Tower and 
Olympia. Queensland lies between Torres Strait 
and New South Wales. It was separated from the 



Productions of Queensland. 263 

mother colony in 1859. For many years there 
existed a natural but unfounded prejudice against 
the supposed warmer climate of this colony, which 
retarded its progress. But the discovery of its 
great wealth in mineral and sugar lands, and the 
fact of the remarkable salubrity of the climate, 
removed this prejudice, and greatly advanced the 
prosperity of the colony. 

The main range of mountains consists of a 
broad plateau extending from north to south at a 
distance of from 20 to 100 miles from the coast, 
and varying in height from 2,000 to 5,000 feet. 
This region is the seat of mining, and will be of 
agriculture. The Coast Range is less elevated. 
Cape York Peninsula is a fair sample of Queens- 
land. Good land alternates with bad. The hills 
are rich in mineral wealth, and the forests are very 
valuable. The flats near the mouths of the 
majority of the streams are admirably adapted to 
the growth of rice and sugar-cane, while the hilly 
slopes are suitable for coffee trees. Pastoral farm- 
ing is the leading industry of the colony, and until 
the last few years little attention was paid to agri- 
culture, on account of the high price of labor, and 
the difficulty of finding a market for agricultural 
products. 

There is a vast section of country which is 
especially adapted to stock-raising. These lands 
are nearly all owned by the government, and 



264 Around the World. 

leased to stock-faisers, for a small rental, for a term 
of years. In settled districts, or within thirty miles 
of the coast, a "run" is subject to resumption by 
the state, on giving six months' notice, should any 
part of it be required by actual settlers for the 
purpose of cutting it up into farms. But in the 
unsettled districts a lease of twenty-one years 
granted by the government, is pretty secure to the 
lessee. The rent advances every seven years of 
the term from about a half a farthing to a penny 
an acre. Within certain distances of the principal 
mountains the rains fall regularly; but the central 
and southern districts of Queensland are not so 
well favored, and the western part of the colony 
depends on occasional thunder-storms, although 
nature provides this section with a species of grass 
which resists drouths for a lone time. At the time 
of my visit to Brisbane, I was told that little rain 
had fallen in this vicinity for several years ; the 
hills had a bronzed appearance, and many of the 
water-courses had run dry. 

The Great Barrier Reef, which follows the line 
of the northeastern coast for 1,200 miles, protects 
it from the violence of the ocean's storms, and 
forms a natural breakwater. Inside of this reef 
the water is very smooth. As we continued our 
journey northward, we were the greater part of the 
time in plain sight of the mainland on one side, 
and the reefs on the other. On this passage I saw 



The Cor at Sea. 265 

the wreck of an American bark which had been 
stranded some three months before on a hidden 
reef, the passengers and crew barely escaping 
with their lives, — a fair sample of what occurs 
every year in the Coral Sea. 

The next Australian city at which we stopped 
was Rockhampton, situated on the Fitzroy River, 
and nearly on the Tropic of Capricorn. It is built 
in the hills, and> notwithstanding the heat, has a 
singularly fine climate. It is a gateway to a great 
pastoral country, and a port of export for wool. 
The hills in this vicinity are rich in minerals. From 
Rockhampton westward a railroad has been built 
into the interior. Our next stopping place was 
Townsville, on Cleveland Bay. Here a narrow- 
gauge railway fifty miles long runs to Charter 
Tower, and will eventually be extended farther 
into the interior country. The scenery in the 
mountains is often beautiful, but not grand. The 
shore and the islands along the coast are clothed 
with palms and other tropical trees. Flowers are 
numerous, and have a powerful fragrance. Over 
300 useful woods grow in Queensland, including 
satin-wood, sandalwood, teak, mahogany, the red 
cedar and tulip-wood. Beautiful ferns abound, and 
include many different varieties. In the northeast 
particularly, the tree fern attains magnificent pro- 
portions, often rising from twenty to thirty feet. 
The sea along this coast abounds in fish, and the 



266 Arotmd the World. 

fishery of the trepang, beche-de-mer, or sea slug, 
employs a considerable number of boats along the 
coral reefs. These fish are boiled, smoked, dried, 
or packed in bags for exportation to China. They 
make an agreeable and nourishing soup, which is 
much relished by Australian invalids. The du- 
gong, or sea cow, has a delicate flesh of the flavor 
of veal, and furnishes an oil with the qualities of 
cod-liver oil. The Chinese are the best fishermen 
in Australian waters. The climate on the north- 
ern coast is dry and salubrious, the highest tem- 
perature being no degrees in the shade in Decem- 
ber, and the lowest 75 degrees in June. The heat 
on this shore is modified by the gentle breeze of 
the southeastern monsoon, which blows almost 
constantly for about seven months in the year. 

The next point of interest which came under my 
observation was Cape Tribulation, which was dis- 
covered by Captain Cook on his first visit to Aus- 
tralia. His vessel had to put in here for repairs, 
as it had sustained more or less injury in penetrat- 
ing the coral reefs. Captain Cook was one of the 
greatest navigators of his day. He discovered 
New Zealand in 1 769 ; but his attempts to pene- 
trate the interior were frustrated by the hostility of 
the natives, and he had to content himself with a 
six-months voyage around the coast. He discov- 
ered the existence of the channel which divides 
New Zealand into two large islands. From New 



The Great Navigator s Sad Fate. 26^ 

Zealand he went to Australia, and, on April 28th, 
came in sight of Botany Bay. His discoveries 
here were also confined to the coasts, as the na- 
tives were hostile. However, he formally took 
possession of the country in the name of Great 
Britain. From Australia he went to New Guinea, 
and from there to Batavia, where, his boat being 
disabled, he had to put in for repairs. He returned 
to England, June 11, 1 77 1, having circumnavigated 
the globe in less than three years. He afterward 
lost his life on the Sandwich Islands, in February, 
1779. 

Near Cape Tribulation stands Cooktown, one of 
the most important ports on the Northern Austra- 
lian coast. It lies at the foot of a towering mount- 
ain, and is washed by the waters of the Coral Sea. 
Back of this town lies Cook's district, which is rich 
in natural resources, and is said to contain the 
most extensive gold fields in Queensland. At the 
time I visited the town, there was a great mining 
boom, due to the discovery of new and rich mines. 
Cooktown has a fine climate, and tropical fruits 
of all kinds grow in profusion. Here can be seen 
orange trees, cocoanut, tamarind, guava, papaw, 
banana and pine-apple, in addition to fruits and 
vegetables of all kinds. This is also a good sugar 
country. 

A great drawback to the settlement of the inte- 
rior country surrounding Cooktown is the character 



268 Around the World. 

of the natives, who are said to be very ferocious, 
many of them being cannibals. I heard of several 
instances where white men had been murdered, 
robbed and eaten by these savages. While I claim 
to have had a considerable experience, and a good 
opportunity of studying the characteristics of the 
different human races during the last thirty years, 
a sense of the fitness of things prevents me from 
dilating on the results of those observations here. 
I have no hesitation, however, in saying, that, from 
the information I derived in regard to these Aus- 
tralian aborigines, and from what I saw of the 
dusky, greasy features of the half-tamed ones who 
idle around the towns, and whose only pursuit 
seems to be begging from and murdering white 
men, they certainly seem to be the most worthless 
species of humanity. They have no industry 
whatever, and have an insatiable thirst for human 
blood. The majority of them are as wild and 
savage as the wolves of the forest. 

Occasionally, however, the least harmful of them 
are permitted to approach the seaport towns. For 
instance, in Cooktown I saw them lurking around 
the streets, both sexes as nearly destitute of cloth- 
ing as the law would allow them to appear in civil- 
ization. As they wear no costume worthy of 
mention, I am relieved from description in that 
line. The men all wear large rings in their noses. 
You often see women with their naked babies 



Aborigines and Mongolians. 269 

strapped upon their bare, brown backs. They are 
kept warm by the heat of the tropical sun, and do 
not seem to feel the need of clothing. It seemed 
strange to me that the British Government per- 
mitted these savages to roam at large, instead of 
confining them to reservations. I heard a great 
deal of complaint from European residents on this 
score. The natives are much better protected 
from being killed or persecuted by the whites than 
are our American Indians. I also discovered that 
the Mongolian is much better protected in British 
possessions than in the United States, although I 
heard the same complaint all over Australia that I 
had constantly heard at home; namely, that the 
Chinese were the ruination of the country, inso- 
much that they supplanted white labor in every 
branch of industry, swarming into the mines, and 
in all the cities and towns. 

As we steamed out of Cooktown, I discovered 
that our live cargo had been augmented by 200 
Chinamen picked up at the different coast towns. 
These were all bound for the Celestial Empire, 
intent on enjoying the Chinese New Year among 
their moon-eyed brethren. The majority of these 
pig-tail passengers had a return ticket, and ex- 
pected to go back and make another drain on the 
Australian resources. We were so heavily laden, 
both with freight and live cargo, that, had we 
struck on a reef, the iron vessel would have sunk 



270 Around' the World. 

like lead. The white passengers would probably 
have had to share the fate of the vessel, as the 
Chinese were largely in the majority and would 
have captured all the life-boats. 

All along the coast are numerous lighthouses 
and light-ships, with revolving lights, which have 
been stationed in different places to aid the mariner 
on his way. In the more dangerous portions of 
the channel, vessels are required to anchor over 
night, in order to avoid the risk of running on hid- 
den rocks and reefs. At last, after a safe but slow 
passage, we entered the Albany Pass, and the 
Great Barrier Reefs gradually faded from sight. 
Many of the islands in the Coral Sea are as bare 
as a bone of vegetation, and are partially cov- 
ered with drifting sand; others are covered with 
shrubs. Pieces of wrecks are scattered along the 
shores of these islands, and various other objects 
which have drifted in from the sea. Albany Pass 
is situated between the Coral Sea and Torres 
Strait. It is a narrow opening about two miles 
long, and half a mile wide, lined with picturesque 
points and projecting rocks, and the greater part of 
the shore is clothed in luxuriant evergreens, which 
add much to the beauty of the scene. Every object 
of interest is appreciated by the tourist, as he soon 
wearies of the monotony of ocean travel. 

The first place of importance in Torres Strait is 
Thursday Island, the chief seat of the pearl-fishing 



Torrid on Torres Strait. 271 

industry on the Australian coast. It is three miles 
long and two miles broad. Its inhabitants and 
those of the neighboring groups are principally 
European divers, who come here solely to engage 
in pearl fishing, and with the expectation of accu- 
mulating a fortune in this enterprise. Pearl fishing 
in these waters is a growing and prosperous in- 
dustry. The shells are procured by diving, and 
bring from $600 to $1,000 a ton. Mother of pearl 
and tortoise shells abound. This industry is said 
to be very hard on the lungs, and often causes un- 
timely death. 

After crossing Torres Strait, we entered the Gulf 
of Carpentaria, and skirted the western shore of 
New Guinea. I was unable to grain much informa- 
tion in regard to the resources of this island, as 
only a small portion of it has ever been explored 
or colonized, on account of the hostility of the 
native inhabitants. Both the English and Dutch 
have made repeated attempts to explore the interior, 
but so far have met with very poor success. The 
sea-coast in the vicinity of Port Mosby and the Fly 
River, is sparsely settled by Europeans, who are 
principally engaged in shell-gathering and pearl 
fishing. 

Sailing in the Gulf of Carpentaria, we were fast 
approaching the Equatorial line. The heat of the 
tropical sun became terrific, and the passengers had 
all they could do to keep from melting. The first 



272 Around the World. 

half of this passage the heat was the most intense 
I had experienced since crossing the Red Sea, and, 
if anything, it was hotter than then." In my state- 
room in the coolest part of the night, with the door 
and port-holes wide open, the heat was suffocating. 
I generally beat a hasty retreat to the open deck, 
where I could get an occasional breath of fresh 
air, more to be appreciated than diamonds in this 
latitude. Many of the passengers could be seen at 
all hours of the night stretched out on the quarter 
deck trying to get a few hours' rest and repose after 
enduring the severe heat of the day. The captain 
and officers were reduced to the same expedient. 
As for myself, I began to ponder, and wonder whether 
this was the lovely Australian coast or a temporary 
hell on sea. 

One phenomenon in this part of the globe is 
that the sun is apparently traveling in the northern 
heavens, and that the compass points south instead 
of north, which seems odd to a traveler from the 
other side of the globe. 

After two days' sailing over the memorable Gulf 
of Carpentaria, we .steamed into Port Darwin, 
where we anchored for two days, discharging a 
large amount of cargo and a considerable number 
of passengers, many of whom were bound for the 
new gold fields at Ord River, in Western Australia. 
I was told that new gold fields are always being 
discovered in this country, and that there is gener- 



Port Darwin. 273 

ally more or less excitement in regard to mines. 
Port Darwin is the last and most northern point 
on the Australian coast. It lies in latitude five, 
and is 2,500 miles from Melbourne, and about the 
same distance from Hongf-Kong-. Owing - to its 
nearness to the Equator, it is extremely hot there. 

This port is quite a commercial centre, and has 
the advantage of having a spacious and secure 
harbor. This harbor is almost encircled by a low 
peninsula, extending into the Bay of Carpentaria, 
and is considered, next to the one at Sydney, the 
best harbor in Australia. The main feature of 
interest at this port is the long wharves, which are 
being built far out into the harbor. When these 
are completed, the cargo can be unloaded directly 
from the ship to the cars, instead of being trans- 
ferred in barges from the ship to the shore, as at 
present. The town has no imposing buildings, and 
the houses are low and square, with broad veran- 
das built all around them to keep out, as much as 
possible, the heat of the tropical sun. The ther- 
mometer often rises as high as 130 degrees in the 
shade, and I found the heat more intense than at 
Fort Yuma or Panama. 

The vicinity of Port Darwin is inhabited by sav- 
age tribes. Many of these natives haunt the town, 
and you often see them rambling around the streets, 
the women almost invariably with a baby strapped 
to their backs. While several gentlemen and my- 

18 



274 Around the World. 

self were sitting on the veranda to our hotel, we 
were approached by one of these brown beauties, 
who offered to sell us her baby for the sum of ten 
shillings, as it was the only baby she had. She 
failed, however, to make a sale, even at this low 
figure, as we were all afraid to invest in this kind 
of a curiosity, thinking that it might prove an an- 
noying and perhaps expensive investment in the 
long run. This only goes to illustrate how far from 
being civilized these people are, as any one of them 
will sell their children for a mere song. 



Off for China. 275 



CHAPTER XV. 

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AND CHINA SEA TO 
HONG-KONG. 

On leaving Port Darwin, we set sail for China, 
traveling by way of the Philippine Islands, Java 
and Singapore. As we steamed out of the harbor, 
I had my last glimpse of Australia, a country to 
which I had given more time and attention in in- 
vestigating its various resources than to any other 
on my whole tour. As I have said before, Australia 
lies thousands of miles out of the beaten line of 
travel between India and China, and on that ac- 
count has not been visited by the greater propor- 
tion of tourists. My journeyings in Australia, both 
by land and water, amounted to 6,000 miles, nearly 
5,000 miles of that distance being devoted to sail- 
ing along the sea-coast. I visited all the principal 
cities and seaports, and traveled nearly two-thirds 
of the entire distance around this mammoth island. 
I sailed from Cape Leeuwin, in the Indian Ocean, 
to Port Darwin, in the Gulf of Carpentaria. I 
also traveled 1,200 miles by rail, which gave me an 
opportunity of viewing the principal inland sights, 
and forming- an estimate of the resources of the 



276 Around the- World. 

country. From the Gulf of Carpentaria we sailed 
into the Arafura Sea, sighting the Island of Ser- 
mattan. This is a small island of no particular 
importance, twelve miles long and six miles broad, 
its only visible vegetation being a few tropical 
plants. For two days the heat was almost intoler- 
able, and every one donned their white suits, about 
the only suits worn by passengers, captain and of- 
ficers in these latitudes. As they are inexpensive, 
and much cooler and more comfortable than woolen 
clothing, travelers in this part of the world usually 
carry a number of these suits with them. It is 
necessary, however, to take woolen clothing too ; 
as, the average speed of the steamer being twelve 
knots an hour, or 300 miles per day, one travels 
over quite a number of degrees of latitude in a 
week, and the temperature varies accordingly. 

We had been distributing European passengers 
all along the coast at the various Australian ports 
at which we touched, and in turn had picked up 
Chinese, so that now the Celestials numbered at 
least 300, and my white companions had dwindled 
down to a mere handful. This was anything but 
pleasant to reflect upon, and I would have much 
preferred to have the order of things reversed. 
Life on board of the steamer Airlie, among the 
coolies, was busy and full of interest, not only to 
the Chinese themselves, but to the other passen- 
gers, who found amusement in watching how the 



Celestials Gambling at Sea. 277 



w s 



Chinese conducted themselves. An artist would 
have found material for at least one day's work, 
and the illustrated papers could have gleaned some 
striking- views. 

Probably the most interesting sight was their 
gambling games, which they generally kept up 
from dawn until midnight. They were divided up 
into squads, seated on the open deck, engaged in 
various games ; were almost stripped of clothing, 
and would sit in the blazing- sun with a fan in one 
hand and their gambling blocks in the other, 
apparently trying to fleece each other. Those that 
were not gambling were lying on their backs 
smoking opium, or quarreling, and some were even 
fighting. The liveliest time, however, was at meal 
time, when a grand rush was made for the table, 
and they seized their chop-sticks, and shoveled the 
rice into their mouths as fast as if their lives 
depended on the rapidity with which they ate. The 
meal finished, they left the table as unceremo- 
niously as they came, and went to gambling with 
renewed vigor. Money changed hands rapidly ; 
the poor became rich, and the rich became poor, in 
a few hours of play. The Chinese huve a decided 
passion for gambling, and I was fully convinced, 
from what I saw, that they would much sooner 
gamble than eat. 

These Celestials are not the most miserable race 
in existence, by any means. The deck hands, con- 



278 Around the World. 

sisting- of a mixture of several Oriental races, were 
a much more degraded set, even dispensing with 
chop-sticks while eating, conveying the food to 
their mouths with their hands, and reminding one 
of so many dusky pigs gathered around a dough 
pile. At night their only bed was the open deck, 
on which they lay down destitute of any covering 
but their scanty clothing, and, with their faces to 
the tropical sky, slept much more soundly than do 
many of their civilized brethren when surrounded 
by all the comforts and luxuries that man's inge- 
nuity can devise. The engine in the steamer Air- 
lie had a capacity of 314 horse-power, and the ship 
itself was of 3,000 tons burthen. The officers, con- 
sisting of the captain, four mates and four engi- 
neers, and the goodly staff of smiling waiters, were 
all Europeans. The men before the mast, and the 
balance of the crew, were a mixture of native 
Portuguese, Maoris, Hindus, Arabs and Malays. 
They received a sixpence, or twelve cents,' a day 
for their services. They certainly work cheap 
enough, as they do good work, and have very poor 
fare, and a white man would hardly be able to do 
the work they do and endure the heat. 

The same rules for bills of fare and nours for 
serving meals seem to prevail on all steamships 
which sail in Asiatic and Australian waters. Each 
passenger has his own particular place at the table, 
which is always, especially for dinner, bountifully 



Islands — Burning Mountain. 270 

spread. The few European fellow-passengers I 
had on this voyage were a jolly lot, composed of 
several London and Australian merchants, and a 
Hong-Kong sea captain, who thoroughly under- 
stood the navigation of these waters. As the com- 
mander of our ship, Captain Ellis, was a fine navi- 
gator, we were abundantly blessed in that respect. 
Both captains kept me well posted as to the lati- 
tude and longitude we were in, and also informed 
me in regard to the various objects and islands we 
passed, the direction in which we were moving, 
and the governments to which the different islands 
we sighted, belonged. 

We traveled as nearly as possible in a northerly 
direction, although a direct course was often pre- 
vented by the numerous islands of the Indian 
Archipelago. Progress was necessarily slow, on 
account of the roundabout way in which we had 
to travel, and the many obstructions which occur 
in these waters. Our average speed was not over 
ten miles, or ten knots, an hour ; while in free and 
open ocean, with the monsoon in our favor, we 
would average twelve knots an hour. Three hun- 
dred miles is considered a day's journey at sea. 

Seventy miles from Sermattan, we approached 
Damma Island, where we were treated to a change 
of scene in the shape of witnessing the eruption of 
a large volcano, which appeared at a distance like 
a burning mountain. Leaving this grand sight 



280 Around the World. 

behind, we passed through Sunda Strait into the 
Banda Sea. Here the sea was calm, but the tem- 
perature of the atmosphere extremely hot, which, 
of course, we expected, being so near the Equator. 
After sailing 150 miles in the Banda Sea, we entered 
the Strait of Manipa, and found ourselves skirting 
the Island of Amboyna, which is thirty miles long 
and thirty broad. The elevation of its highest 
peak is 4,008 feet; it belongs to the Dutch, has a 
resident governor, and presents the appearance of 
being a fertile island. Between the islands of 
Manipa and Borneo is a passage fifteen miles in 
width, whose waters are said to be 500 fathoms 
deep. We next passed through Baka Strait. The 
islands on either side of this passage belong to the 
Dutch. They are clothed with the luxuriant vege- 
tation of the tropics, and present a very beautiful 
appearance. 

After sailing through the Basline Passage into 
the Celebes Sea, we found ourselves rapidly near- 
ing the Philippine Islands. We skirted the shore 
so closely for many miles that a girl could throw a 
stone from the ship to the mainland. This gave 
us a fine opportunity of viewing these famous 
islands. The coast was lined with cocoanut trees, 
and all sorts of tropical plants were growing in 
profusion. ' The sloping hillsides were covered with 
green crops, and the entire landscape looked doubly 
beautiful to the eye wearied of the waste of waters. 



Philippines and the Celebes Sea. 281 

We passed island after island, each clothed in lovely 
green, the luxuriant vegetation growing clear down 
to the water's edge. These islands seem to be 
favored by nature in every respect ; the soil is fer- 
tile ; the climate mild, salubrious and healthful. I 
felt as if I had arrived at the Mecca of the South 
Pacific Ocean. 

These islands belong to Spain, and are chiefly 
colonized by that nationality. The Spanish Gov- 
ernment keeps a resident governor here, and at all 
the seaports men-of-war are stationed to protect 
the interests of the government and her subjects in 
this quarter of the globe. Notwithstanding the 
fact that these islands are so well favored by nature, 
and so jealously guarded by the Spanish Govern- 
ment, by far the larger proportion of the land is 
uncultivated and unsettled. The government is 
determined that the people of no other nation shall 
be allowed to come in and get a foothold in her 
Asiatic possessions ; consequently, immigration is 
not encouraged, and these beautiful and fertile 
islands will probably be sparsely settled for many 
years to come. Mindanao Island is the most 
southern of the group. 

Leaving the Celebes Sea, we sailed through the 
Sulu Sea, and were journeying in a roundabout 
way to Singapore. The ocean in this part of the 
world is full of islands, capes, peninsulas and 
straits. Want of space, however, will prevent me 



282 Around the World. 

from mentioning more than a few of the principal 
ones. As we journeyed leisurely along, many times 
sailing close to the shore, I had a bird's-eye view 
from the steamer of a number of these islands. It 
was a matter of regret to me that I was unable to 
have more than a passing glance of the Philippine 
Islands, Borneo and New Guinea. I would have 
liked very much to pay a visit to each of these 
countries to gain an insight into the manners and 
customs of the people, and learn something of the 
resources of each country. As it was, I had to 
content myself with such information as I derived 
from Captain Ellis, of the steamship Airlie. 

Going from the Philippine Islands to Singapore, 
we crossed a portion of the China Sea. The pass- 
age was very rough, and sea-sickness prevailed with 
the majority of the passengers. I was no longer 
troubled with this disagreeable malady, and was 
able to sit back and laugh at my less fortunate 
companions. I had had, however, the advantage 
of an almost continuous sea voyage of 25,000 
miles ; and, if there is anything in the old maxim 
that practice makes perfect, I ought by this time 
to have become a pretty good sailor. The rock- 
ing of the steamer in the heaviest gale produced 
no more impression on me than being carried by 
two coolies in a sedan chair. On this particular 
trip the sea was so heavy and the waves ran so 
high that the water dashed clear over the hurri- 



Singapore. 283 

cane deck. On the way to Singapore we passed 
near Anger Point, on the coast of Java, where a 
terrible earthquake occurred five years ago, when 
the island of Anger Point, including a town of 
30,000 inhabitants, was swallowed up in the sea. 

Singapore is situated on the south side of the 
Island of Singapore, and is in the British colony of 
the Straits Settlements. The port of Singapore 
is capacious, and the water deep enough for the 
largest vessels. The harbor is provided with every 
facility for an extensive commerce, and for fitting 
out and repairing vessels. In consequence of its 
geographical position, it is one of the most impor- 
tant ports of Asia, and is resorted to by the vessels 
of all nations. The city is situated on a low plain 
fronting the harbor, with hills in the rear, which 
are occupied by country houses. The principal 
points of interest are the fortifications, the Gov- 
ernment House ; the Botanical Gardens, which 
have a magnificent collection of tropical plants ; 
the Chinese temple, and the Mohammedan mosques. 

The Island of Singapore lies at the extreme 
southern end of the Malay Peninsula, from which 
it is separated by a strait about forty miles long 
by from one-half mile to two miles wide. This 
island is about twenty-five miles long from east to 
west, and about twelve miles wide. Near the coast 
are swamp tracts, covered with mangrove trees; but 
inland there are many small hills from 100 to 500 



284 Around- the World. 

feet high. The climate is healthful ; but, owing to 
its nearness to the Equator, very warm. Rain 
falls in abundance. Wild animals abound, and 
tigers are said to cross the strait to the island, and 
carry off, on an average, a Chinaman a day. 

The population of Singapore numbers about 
125,000. It consists of Europeans, who are largely 
in the majority, and a mixture of Asiatic races. 
The natives are indolent, seem to be entirely lack- 
ing in ambition, wear very little clothing of any 
kind, and the highest remuneration they receive for 
work of any description is a sixpence a day. 

After staying two days in Singapore, we steamed 
out of the harbor, bound for Hong-Kong, a distance 
of 900 miles. In crossing the China Sea, we were 
treated to some boisterous gales, and a storm, which 
lasted twenty-four hours, and carried away two of 
our life-boats. Once, while the storm was at its 
height, I waded knee-deep in water on the quarter 
deck. Even the hurricane deck was washed by the 
sea from stem to stern. However, the powerful 
iron steamer plowed its way through the raging 
billows, and landed us safely on the shores of China. 
For sixty miles before arriving at Hong-Kong, we 
were skirting the Chinese shore. The sea in this 
vicinity was dotted with fishing boats. The waters 
of the Chinese rivers and seas are teeming with 
fish ; and fishing is the principal industry of the 
people who live along the coast. 



Hong-Kong. 285 



CHAPTER XVI. 

CHINA, FROM HONG-KONG TO CANTON. 

Hong-Kong is situated on the southeastern 
coast of China. This island was ceded to Great 
Britain, and is considered an important British 
possession. It is one of a small cluster of islands 
called by the Portuguese " Ladrones," or " Thieves," 
on account of the notorious habits of the old 
inhabitants. This island has an area of twenty- 
nine square miles ; the extreme length, from north- 
east to southeast, is ten miles and a half ; and the 
breadth varies from two to five miles. It is sep- 
arated from the mainland by a narrow channel, 
which is a mile wide in some places, and in others 
it is not over a quarter of a mile to the opposite 
shore. The capital, which is called Victoria, is 
situated on the northwestern extremity of the 
island. The streets are wide and well kept, and 
the buildings are mostly of brick and stone, and 
are greatly superior to those of a Chinese city. 

Hong-Kong owes its present importance prin- 
cipally to its financial prominence as the head- 
quarters of the banking interest, and to its mag- 
nificent harbor, which appeared to me to be almost 



286 Around the World. 

completely landlocked. Next to the one at Syd- 
ney, this harbor is probably the most commodious 
and secure, and here vessels are anchored from 
almost every part of the world. Prominent among 
the forest of masts were those flying the American 
flag, to me a most pleasant sight, as it brought 
anew to my mind memories of the home I had 
left behind, and which was still 7,000 miles away. 
My first object in arriving at a foreign port was to 
get a glimpse of the American flag. There are a 
few American residents in Hong-Kong. 

The harbor presented an extremely lively appear- 
ance, and the Chinese sampans were swarming in 
every direction. These boats, from twelve to fif- 
teen feet long, form the only home of quite a num- 
ber of families who live on the Canton River, and 
every child large enough to toddle must help pull 
an oar. As soon as our steamer cast anchor, we 
were surrounded by hundreds of these sampans, 
the occupants screaming and yelling, each trying 
to get the largest number of passengers to convey 
to the shore. The boat in which I happened to 
get was manned by a family of ten, varying in age 
from four to fifty. The old man was occupied in 
guiding the rudder and the sail, and the rest of the 
family, from the wife down to the baby, were row- 
ing, each provided with an oar suited to their size 
and strength. 

From this novel experience in traveling on 



First Experience in a Sedan Chair. 287 

water, I was to meet with a still more novel one in 
traveling on land. On coming on shore, I was 
immediately surrounded by a lot of half-naked 
coolies with their sedan chairs, and was soon 
being carried through the streets of Hong-Kong 
by two Celestials, who took me to the leading hotel 
of the city for ten cents. This was called the 
Hong-Kong Hotel, and I was charged the moder- 
ate price of five dollars per day for accommoda- 
tions. The "tone" of the place seemed to be in 
the price, and in nothing else. Evidently the 
Europeans do not intend to reside in the Orient 
for nothing, and are anxious to accumulate fortunes 
rapidly. 

The town, including the Chinese quarter, ex- 
tends for about three miles along the shores of the 
bay, and has a steep range of mountains for a 
background. The climate is a little warmer than 
that of San Francisco, a little cooler than that of 
Naples, and, with the exception of certain seasons 
of the year, is considered healthful. There are 
several handsome government buildings, a large 
exchange, a cathedral, the bishop's palace, and ex- 
tensive barracks. There are also ten large bank- 
ing houses in Hong-Kong. The houses of the 
merchants are, as a rule, large and elegant, with 
broad verandas built all around, and surrounded 
by tasteful gardens. 

Opium is imported more largely at Hong-Kong 



288 Around the World. 

than at any other port. It is also the centre of an 
extensive trade in silk, chinaware, nut oil, amber, 
ivory, sugar and many other tropical productions. 
You find in circulation here the silver of almost 
every nation, and I experienced more swindling in 
making exchanges, and saw more counterfeit coin, 
than in any other port. If the natives are behind 
other countries in point of civilization, they are 
certainly not behind any other people in the art of 
fleecing the unwary stranger. The British fleet 
is stationed in the harbor. Vessels come and go 
almost daily from this port to Bombay, Calcutta, 
Singapore, Canton, Yokohama, Sydney and San 
Francisco. 

Immediately southwest of the Capitol is Victoria 
Peak, 1,825 feet in height, which is used as a station 
for signaling the approach of vessels. After inves- 
tigating the leading features of interest in the city, 
I decided to make the ascent of this hill. So I 
procured a sedan chair, the two coolies who fur- 
nished the motive power of the vehicle agreeing to 
carry me to the top and back at the rate of ten 
cents an hour, which I considered much cheaper 
and better than walking. The ascent was steep 
and rocky, and I found being carried in this man- 
ner pleasant, and more comfortable than traveling 
on foot. Arriving at the summit, I had a fine view 
of the Chinese coast and the neighboring islands. 
The waters of the sea are dotted with fishing 



Visiting Macao. 289 

boats, Chinese sailing vessels, and craft of every 
description. Looking inland, the prospect is wild 
and monotonous. The hills are bare, and entirely 
devoid of trees, and nowhere can there be seen 
evidences of cultivation or fertility. Patches of 
land along the coast have been planted to rice, 
sweet potatoes and yams ; but the island is hardly 
able to raise vegetables enough to supply the home 
consumption. 

The streets are guarded by a strong force of In- 
dian Sepoys, and the natives are not allowed to go 
abroad after eight o'clock without a pass. The 
most common mode of street conveyance is by 
sedan chairs, which are carried by coolies. The 
passage across the Strait of Kan-lung to the main 
shore is usually effected by means of sampans. 

After doing Hong-Kong, I made a short visit to 
Macao, thirty-eight miles distant. The intercourse 
between Europe and China began in 151 7, when 
the King of Portugal sent an ambassador accom- 
panied by a fleet of eight ships to Peking. On 
this occasion the Portuguese ambassador managed 
to gain the friendship of the Viceroy of Canton, 
and made an advantageous treaty with him. This 
was the commencement of the relations of China 
with Europe. Subsequently the Portuguese ren- 
dered the Chinese a signal service by capturing a 
famous pirate who had long ravaged their coasts. 
In gratitude for this service, the Emperor permitted 
19 



290 Around the World. 

them to establish themselves on a peninsula formed 
by some sterile rocks. 

On this spot arose the city of Macao, long the 
mart of the commerce of Europeans with the 
Celestial Empire. The establishment of the En- 
glish at Hong-Kong did much to divest it of its 
former commercial importance. By the exclusive 
policy of both the Chinese and Portuguese, Macao 
was prevented from becoming a free port until 1845 
and 1846, and consequently it was long ago out- 
stripped by its more liberal rivals. The trade of 
this city, however, is still of very considerable ex- 
tent, its principal commercial intercourse being with 
Hong-Kong, Canton, Batavia and Zoa. The 
preparation and packing of tea is the principal in- 
dustry of the town. The most of the land is under 
garden cultivation ; but the majority of the people 
are more or less dependent upon commercial pur- 
suits. This is a notorious gambling resort, and the 
colonial revenue is largely recruited by a tax on 
the gaming tables. The sports and young bloods 
from Hong-Kong come over here on Sunday ex- 
cursions, and generally manage to leave the larger 
proportion of their cash behind when they return 
home. With its flat-roofed houses painted blue, 
red and green, Macao presents a very picturesque 
appearance. About one-tenth of the population 
are of European birth and extraction ; the balance, 
Chinese and half-castes. 



From Hong-Kong to Canton. 291 

I now returned to Hong-Kong, and took a river 
steamboat for Canton. There were four Europeans 
on board besides myself, and 800 Chinese. The 
four Europeans were managers of the English pas- 
senger steamer, which appeared to do a rushing 
business. This steamboat ride proved one of the 
most interesting experiences in my inland travel. 
There are rugged ranges of hills on either side of 
the bay, clothed in dark green foliage from their 
summits down to the water's edge. Steep acclivities 
and lofty peaks add to the picturesqueness of the 
scene. 

The Chinese, on this seven-hours trip, occupied 
themselves in smoking opium, drinking tea and 
gambling. Gaming is prohibited in China, but is 
nevertheless carried on everywhere, and is indulged 
in by old and young with a passion which in some 
instances almost amounts to madness. All legisla- 
tion on this subject has been overpowered by the 
habits of the people, and China is, in fact, one vast 
gaming house. The Chinese are industrious and 
economical, but are possessed of an immoderate 
love of gain and a taste for speculation, which 
easily tempts them to gambling when not engaged 
in business. The habit once formed, they seldom 
recover from. it. They cast aside every obligation 
of duty and family, and live only for cards and dice. 
When they have lost all their money, they will play 
for their homes, their lands, their wives, and some- 



292 Around the World. 

times even for the clothes they have on. This 
passion for gambling has invaded all classes of so- 
ciety, and men, women and children all play. The 
lower classes, however, are the most inveterate and 
determined gamblers. In almost every street of 
the large towns, you meet little ambulating gaming 
tables, with a pair of dice placed in a cup upon a 
stool, which prove an almost irresistible attraction 
to the workman returning from his daily labor. 
Once yielding to this temptation, he ever afterward 
finds it more difficult to withstand it, and often 
loses the whole of his hard earnings in a few hours. 

Twelve miles before arriving at Canton, we 
touched at Whampoa. Only steamers are allowed 
to go up to Canton ; sailing vessels are restricted 
to anchorage here. Owing to the rise of the tide 
and the nature of the ground, it was found advan- 
tageous to construct docks at this place. Taking 
advantage of these facilities, larg^e numbers of for- 
eign vessels enter here, and their cargoes are gen- 
erally transported to Canton in small boats. On 
arriving at Whampoa a lively scene ensued. The 
river from bank to bank was lined with water craft 
containing Chinese boatmen and boatwomen, all 
yelling and screaming to attract the attention of 
the passengers toward their respective boats. The 
scene was a noisy but amusing one. 

According to the Chinese, Canton has existed as 
a city for forty centuries, and traces are found of 



The Walls and Gates. 293 

the existence of a city on this site twelve hundred 
years before our era. Although in the same parallel 
of latitude as Calcutta, the climate is much cooler, 
and is considered superior to that of most places 
in the tropics. Canton is situated on the Canton 
or Pearl River, about eighty miles from its 
mouth and ninety miles from Hong-Kong. This 
river is navigable 300 miles further into the inte- 
rior. The part of Canton enclosed by walls is 
about six miles in circumference, and a partition 
wall runs through the city from east to west, divid- 
ing it into two unequal parts. The northern and 
larger division is called the old city, and the south- 
ern the new city. The walls of the city are of 
brick, and are about twenty-five feet high and 
twenty feet thick. There are twelve gates, four of 
which are in the partition wall. The gates are 
shut all night : in the day a guard is stationed at 
each to preserve order. For four or five miles op- 
posite Canton, boats are ranged parallel to each 
other in such close order that they resemble a float- 
ing city. These boats are occupied by families, 
who remain almost constantly on the water. 

The Chinese Government has never favored 
foreign commerce, and Canton was for a long time 
the only seat of British trade with China. It was 
no doubt fixed upon by the Chinese Government 
as the seat for European trade, on account of 
its distance from Peking. Formerly only a lim- 



29-4 Around the World. 

ited number of Chinese merchants were allowed to 
trade with foreigners, and they were usually men 
of large property, and famed for the integrity of 
their transactions. All foreign cargoes passed 
through the hands of these merchants, and return 
cargoes were furnished by them. They became 
security for custom-house duties, and it was crimi- 
nal for any other merchant to engage in the trade 
with foreigners. The foreign trade with .Canton 
was naturally damaged by the opening of Shang- 
hai and the ports on the Yang-tse ; but still it re- 
mains of considerable importance. 

Probably one reason why the Chinese care so 
little for foreign commerce is that their internal 
trade is so extensive. It employs vessels of all 
kinds and sizes, which are constantly traversing the 
rivers and canals, by which the empire is watered 
throughout its whole extent. This trade consists 
principally in the exchange of grain, salt, metal, 
and the productions of the various provinces. 
China is such a vast country, and its resources 
are so 'varied, that its internal trade alone is abun- 
dantly sufficient to occupy that part of the nation 
which is devoted to mercantile pursuits. The 
channels of communication, though oftentimes 
inconvenient, are always thronged with merchan- 
dise, which is carried in boats, on carts, on the 
backs of men and on beasts of burden. 

The European settlement in Shamein is con- 



Suburbs of Canton. 295 

nected with Canton by two bridges. On the con- 
clusion of peace, in 1861, it became necessary to 
provide a foreign settlement for merchants whose 
factories had been destroyed, and it was finally de- 
cided to appropriate as the British settlement an 
extensive mud-flat, known as the Shamein. This 
site having been leased, it was converted into an 
artificial island by building around it a massive 
embankment of granite. Between the northern 
side of the site and the Chinese suburbs, a canal 
100 feet wide was constructed, thus forming an 
island 12,850 feet long by 950 wide. The Shamein 
settlement possesses many advantages. It is close 
to the western suburbs of Canton, where all the 
wholesale dealers and the principal merchants 
reside. It faces a broad channel, known as the 
Macao Passage, up which blows a cool breeze in 
summer; and the river opposite it affords a safe 
and commodious anchorage for steamers of 1,000 
tons burthen. 

As I have mentioned before, some months prior 
to my visit to China the French and Chinese had 
had a difficulty, in which Admiral Courbet sank 
eleven Chinese ships, and at the present time it 
was unsafe for any Frenchman to enter the interior 
of China. As the Chinese are always more or less 
hostile to foreigners, I was warned that it was not 
considered wise for tourists to try to visit the inte- 
rior until the bad feeling against the French had 



296 Around the World, 

in a measure subsided. When I found myself the 
only tourist traveling between Hong-Kong and 
Canton, I began to think that probably the appre- 
hensions of danger were not entirely groundless. 
However, I had come to China with the intention 
of visiting the country, and had no idea of con- 
tenting mvself with a view of the outskirts of this 
great empire. Having seen Canton outside the 
wall, I was possessed with an overwhelming desire 
to see the city inside the wall, so thought I would 
risk being mistaken for a Frenchman, rather than 
go away without seeing some of the country. I 
consequently procured a Chinese guide, and sallied 
forth. As this coolie said he was an extra good 
guide, I agreed to give him extra wages, and we 
both decided that seventy-five cents per day would 
be a fair valuation for his services. 

The preliminaries settled, I followed my Celestial 
guide through the nearest gate, and found myself 
inside the walls of a city which is said to contain a 
million and a half of people. I found my guide 
able to speak fairly good pigeon English. I 
watched his every movement very closely, as I did 
not want to lose him, fearing I might not be able 
to find him again. The people all looked as much 
alike to me as the two wheels to a wagon ; but my 
guide guarded me very closely, as I represented 
seventy-five cents a day to him ; and, as he was to 
pilot me for two days, he seemed to consider his 



The Passport Demanded. 297 

position a money-making one. So we both watched 
each other, — he anxious not to lose me on account 
of the money, and I fearful that, if I lost him, I 
would never get out alive. 

Before we had fairly begun our sight-seeing, I 
was approached by some dignified Celestials who 
demanded my passport, which was readily shown. 
They desired to know my nationality, what I was 
there for, etc. I informed them that I was an 
American citizen traveling for" pleasure, to which 
they replied that America and China were like two 
brothers, and that I could go where I pleased. I 
made little comment on this polite speech, but at 
the same time thought that I would be willing to 
be a brother to almost anything until I got on the 
outside of the city. As I was a stranger rambling 
through the city, without any white companions, I 
was desirous of keeping on the good side of every- 
body. 

The streets of Canton are very narrow, varying 
from seven to ten feet in width, and are paved with 
flat granite blocks. The houses are generally small, 
seldom consisting of more than two stories, and 
often only one story in height. They are generally 
built of adobe or brick, are without verandas, and 
entirely open in front, closed only by suspended 
bamboo screens. The windows are small, and 
rarely of glass, — paper, mica, or some other trans- 
parent substance being used. The roofing consists 



298 Around the World. 

of thin tiles laid in rows, alternately concave and 
convex, the latter overlapping the former. The 
roofs are of unequal height, as there is a Chinese 
superstition to the effect that ill-luck follows eaves 
which connect with each other. The houses gen- 
erally contain from three to six rooms. The 
dwellings of the poorer classes are seldom more 
than mud hovels containing but a single room. 

In the busy part of the city every house is a 
shop, and here we found the productions of every 
part of the globe. The Chinese are remarkably 
expert men of business. After passing miles of 
shops, I came to the conclusion that Canton must 
be one of the wealthiest cities in the world, as well 
as one of the most interesting. There is a striking 
contrast between the poverty-stricken coolies and 
the better classes. The former have the appear- 
ance of having a hard time to eke out an existence. 
They live in miserable hovels, and amble through 
the streets about three-fourths naked, carrying 
heavily loaded baskets filled with bones, rags, and 
truck of every description. These baskets are car- 
ried by the means of a pole stretched across the 
shoulders. The streets are so narrow that they 
are impassable for carriages, the only vehicles used 
being sedan chairs carried by the coolies. These 
are found in immense numbers, and offer their 
services at very low rates. The city is divided into 
quarters for the various kinds of business, almost 



300 Around the World. 

every trade or occupation having its own separate 
quarter. Provisions of all kinds are abundant and 
cheap. 

Few large cities can compare with Canton in 
point of salubrity of climate. The temples and 
public buildings are numerous ; but few of them 
present features worthy of special remark. The 
temples are much more attractive inside than out, 
as they are not stately and imposing like those of 
Japan and India. In fact, there are not many im- 
posing buildings in Canton. Chinese taste does 
not seem to move in that direction. The space in 
front of the temples is generally occupied by beg- 
gars, hucksters and idlers, many of them most 
pitiful-looking specimens of humanity. By the 
way they stared at me and followed me around, I 
must have been almost as much of a curiosity to 
them as they were to me. 

The first objects that would probably attract the 
attention of a stranger on entering Canton are the 
two pagodas which are situated near the western 
gate of the. old city. One of these, called the plain 
pagoda, is about 1,000 years old, and rises in an 
angular, tapering tower to the height of 160 feet. 
The other, an octagonal pagoda, has nine stories, 
is 170 feet in height, and was erected 1,300 years 
ago. 

There are 125 temples, pavilions, and other 
religious edifices in the city. I believe that I de- 



The Temples of Canton. 301 

rived more satisfaction from visiting the temples 
than from anything else. The most important one 
was the Temple of Five Hundred Gods, or 
" Flowery Forest," as it is called, remarkable for 
the great number of colossal wooden figures of all 
colors, with grotesque or hideous faces, which are 
arranged in close order around the walls of the 
room. These are the guardian genii of China. 

The Hall of Worship is sixty feet square, and in 
the centre is a gigantic carved statue, in a sitting 
posture, representing Buddha. It was quite a 
sight to see the numerous idols, it being on a 
grander scale than anything that I had seen in the 
Orient. 

In this temple I also saw a statue of Marco 
Polo, whose father and uncle were the first Euro- 
peans to reach China, of whom we have any 
knowledge. They visited it in 1260, meeting with 
great favor from Kublai, the reigning Emperor, 
who decided to send them back as his envoys to 
the Pope, with letters requesting him to send a 
large body of educated men to instruct his people 
in Christianity. The brothers returned home in 
1269, and found that Pope Clement IV. had died 
the year before, and no new pope had been chosen. 
After a delay of two years, they started, not with 
the hundred teachers, as requested by Kublai, but 
with two Dominicans, who lost heart and turned 
back in the very beginning of the journey. On 



302 Around the World. 

this trip they took young Marco with them, who, at 
the time they arrived at Shangtu, in the spring of 
1275, was twenty-one years old. Upon his arrival, 
Marco Polo applied himself diligently to the 
acquisition of the language; and Kublai, finding 
him both clever and discreet, employed him in the 
public service, and sent him on many distant mis- 
sions. As the years rolled by, the Polos were 
anxious to return home ; but Kublai was unwilling 
to let them. go. They finally, however, effected 
their departure, and returned to Venice at the end 
of the year 1 295. 

The Temple of Longevity is next in importance 
to that of the 500 gods. It contains three pavil- 
ions, which are well filled with statues and images, 
about eighty in number | and also a colossal statue 
in wood, representing an obese old man. Here is 
kept a family of storks, which are daily fed by the 
attendants. The other temples are much smaller 
affairs, and attract little attention after a visit to 
the large ones which I have just described, with 
the exception of the Buddhist Temple at Honan. 
It is called, in Chinese, Hai-chwang-eze, or the 
Temple of the Ocean Banner. Its grounds cover 
about seven acres, are surrounded by a wall, and 
are divided into courts, gardens and burial grounds, 
in which are deposited the ashes of the priests, 
whose bodies are burned. There are about 1 75 
priests connected with this establishment. Near 



Idolatries and Superstitions. 303 

this temple are undertaking establishments, a fur- 
nace for the cremation of the dead, and a mau- 
soleum in which to deposit their ashes. The 
Temple of Trade is an interesting place to visit 
during the Chinese New Year, when one can wit- 
ness all the pomp and ceremony attendant upon 
that occasion. All sorts of relics can be seen, from 
a bronze monkey to a sacred pig. 

Another interesting temple is the Temple of the 
Sages, which contains seventy bronze images of 
Confucius, and wax candles and incense are kept 
burning constantly. Certain days of each year are 
set apart as a time in which to do honor to the 
memory of Confucius. The Temple of Confucius 
is of great size. The Chinese have some extraor- 
dinary ideas or superstitions in regard to their 
gods. For instance, they sometimes worship two 
Joshes, a good Josh and a bad Josh ; and they will 
do more honor, and make more sacrifices, to the 
bad than to the good, — and why? They will tell 
you that it is because the good one will do no 
harm anyway, while it is necessary to placate the 
bad one, and keep him from sending you to de- 
struction ; so they worship him with a great deal 
of pomp and ceremony. 

Statues of the most famous personages in the 
history of China are seen in the temples. Theat- 
rical performances are sometimes given in the front 
part of the temples, the charge for admission being 



304 Around the World. 

ten cash, or one cent. The music at one of these 
theatres is of the silliest and most monotonous 
sort, and there are seldom over two or three per- 
formers. To me the most ludicrous feature of the 
entertainment was the loud and frequent laughter 
and applause, when there seemed nothing to laugh 
at. Another peculiarity is, that the performances 
seemed to be all alike. However, I have never 
regretted the ten cash invested in Chinese theatres. 

The narrow thoroughfares are all more or less 
dark and gloomy, owing to the fact that the streets 
are so narrow, and the houses so close together. 
In some instances, the upper stories of the houses 
are built out over the street, and this excludes the 
lio-ht almost altogether. 

There is generally a thorough understanding 
between merchants and guides, to the effect that 
the latter are to aid the former all they can in the 
way of bringing tourists to their shops. As 
European and American travelers generally invest 
largely in costly articles and numerous curiosities, 
as mementoes of their journey, and as presents for 
the friends at home, it is quite an item to secure 
this patronage. The shops are all filled with costly 
wares, such as silks, lacquered goods, porcelain, 
ivory and curios of all kinds and descriptions. I 
noticed that my guide, in taking me around the 
city, never missed an opportunity of dragging me 
into one of his favorite shops to make purchases. 



In Search of Strange Sights. 305 

The guide is always supposed to make his own 
commissions in the shape of an extra squeeze of 
the traveler's pocket. Even the coolies who car- 
ried my sedan chair would occasionally stop in 
front of some imposing shop to gladden the heart 
of their merchant friend with a sight of the traveler, 
thinking, perhaps, he could be induced to buy some 
of the beautiful wares that are displayed ; but I 
turned out to be a visitor in search of strange sights, 
instead of a purchaser of curiosities ; so, after a 
brief glance at the tempting display, I would invite 
my coolie team to move on. 

The majority of the people of China seem to 
have less enjoyment and pleasure than the people 
of any other country I have visited. You seldom 
see them idle their time away, or indulge in any 
pastime except that of gambling. They rather 
seem to drag out a dreary, monotonous existence, 
which mainly consists in Working, paying taxes and 
dying. I verily believe, from what I saw of them, 
that the Chinese are the most industrious race 
under the sun. It is work, work, work, on land or 
on water ; no rest, no recreation, no play, — always 
work. 

Prominent among the industries of Canton are 
the weaving of silks and other stuffs ; the manu- 
facture of porcelain, screens, umbrellas, ivory fans 
and many articles too numerous to mention. These 
employ thousands of hands, and the products are 
20 



306 Around the World. 

sold at the lowest prices. There are no large 
manufacturing establishments, the workmen either 
working at home or in small companies. The com- 
pensation they receive generally varies from twelve 
to twenty-five cents per day. 

The rich in China make little display of their 
wealth. In fact, they rather try to conceal it ; for 
the government has never favored the accumulation 
of money or power in the hands of the people. 
The legal rate of interest has been fixed by the 
government at thirty per cent, per annum. There 
are many reasons assigned for this by Chinese 
economists, one of which is that, since money has 
borne this high rate of interest, no one thinks of 
hoarding it, and the circulation of it has been more 
general and continual. Another is that the pur- 
pose was to prevent the value of land from increas- 
ing and that of money from diminishing ; and that, 
in fixing it at a high rate, it has endeavored to 
render the distribution of land proportional to the 
number of families, and the circulation of money 
more active and uniform. 

The cultivators of the soil in China are extremely 
poor, never accumulating capital. This may be 
owing to the land laws, although they correspond 
to some of the advanced ideas of modern agrarian 
theorists. All waste lands belong to the crown ; 
but any one who brings them under cultivation 
acquires a clear title, and can freely dispose of the 



Tenants and Rents. 307 

property. The property of a deceased person 
passes to his male children in equal shares, and can 
not be bequeathed away from them. The greater 
part of the soil is owned in small tracts varying 
from five acres down to one-sixth of an acre. The 
possession of ten acres is considered well to do, 
and the owner of an estate of 1,000 acres is con- 
sidered a millionaire. Over two-thirds of the land 
is cultivated by tenants on the half-profit system, 
the landlord providing the houses and paying the 
taxes; and the cultivator or renter, the simple im- 
plements and his labor. One bad season reduces 
these tenants to beggary. In the vast territory of 
the Chinese Empire, some district is stricken by 
famine nearly every year, either by drouths, floods, 
locusts, or in consequence of an insurrection. 

My guide was very talkative, and seemed to -de- 
light in my questions about the manners, customs, 
habits and beliefs of his people. He informed mc, 
with a great deal of pride, that the Chinese were 
the greatest and oldest nation on earth, and seemed 
to consider their religion a great improvement on 
ours. He thought their gods, made with their own 
hands, much better and purer than our unseen God. 
Their superstitions and religion, or rather want of 
religion, is the outgrowth of centuries of unbelief 
and idolatrous worship. Missionary work in China 
has not been attended with the same success that 
it has experienced in Japan and India ; for the 



308 Around the World. 

Chinese are not so receptive as these nations, and, 
as a matter of fact, are completely indifferent to 
religious matters. The government does not favor 
Christianity ; they look with suspicion upon the 
missionaries and their teachings, and imagine that, 
under a pretense of religion, they are really man- 
oeuvring to overthrow the empire. 

The Chinese are about as far behind civilization 
and scientific research as they are in matters of 
religion, are perfectly satisfied with things as they 
are, and have no desire for improvement or 
advancement. They have no railroads, and do not 
want any, saying that, if the time ever comes that 
they should want them, they will build them them- 
selves without any advice, assistance or interference 
from Europeans. They think thatthe introduction 
of modern inventions would work hardship on the 
laboring classes, as it would deprive them of em- 
ployment. 

My guide would have done for a Mormon, had 
he lived in Utah, as he told me he had three wives, 
and that, as soon as he could earn eighty dollars, 
he would buy another. A wife, he said, cost any- 
where from eighty to one hundred and forty dol- 
lars, according to her age and beauty ; and a man 
is privileged to have as many wives as he can 
afford to keep. The first wife, however, is always 
the mistress of the house, and the others are sub- 
ordinate to her. 



A Novel Bill of Fare. 309 

My guide took me for a promenade on the high 
wall, from which I could look out over the city, 
with its masses of low, flat houses; could see the 
bustle and hear the yelling and screaming of the 
people who thronged the streets. It seemed a 
veritable Babylon. 

The execution ground is an interesting place to 
visit. Here sometimes twenty-five or thirty crim- 
inals are executed at once, and the average number 
of criminals beheaded yearly is said to be 350. 
The worst class of criminals are cut to pieces upon 
the cross. Shops where idols are made and re- 
paired, are also places of interest. The Arsenal, 
where they have a large number of breech-loading 
guns, presents a lively scene, for 400 Celestials are 
kept constantly employed here. 

Last, but not least, I was taken to a Chinese 
restaurant, where everything was served in regular 
Chinese style. The bill of fare consisted of dainty 
dishes, such as bird's-nest soup, sweetmeats, roast 
cat, shark's fins, raw fish, roast frog, rice and tea, 
for which we had neither sugar nor milk. I par- 
took freely of the tea, and sparingly of the roast 
cat. This is a fair sample of the edibles at a 
Chinese restaurant or hotel. There are no Euro- 
pean hotels inside the wall in Canton. 

Another great industry in Canton, which I had 
almost forgotten to mention, is the tea-drying estab- 
lishments, where teas are cured and colored. The 



310 Around the World. 

tea production is one of the most important of the 
resources of China, and a million and a half tons 
of tea are produced annually. This gives employ- 
ment to thousands of people, as the tea goes through 
a number of processes from the time it is gathered 
until it is ready for the market. The cultivation 
of rice probably ranks next in importance to that 
of tea, and these two products form the chief staple 
of food of the Chinese. The cultivation of rice 
is similar to that of grain, although, unless grown 
on damp, marshy ground, it has to be irrigated. 

Canton is situated in the Province of Kwang-tung, 
which is one of the most productive in the empire. 
In addition to the cultivation of tea and rice, silk 
is produced in the district forming the river delta, 
which extends from Canton to Macao. Sugar is 
grown on the banks of all the rivers, and at Lo- 
ting, 1 50 miles east of Canton, matting, fire-crackers, 
sugar and palm-leaf fans are annually exported to 
the number of four or five million to New York 
alone. Three large coal fields exist in this province. 

The highest official in Canton is the Tsoung-tow, 
or Governor-General, called Viceroy by the Euro- 
peans. He is appointed by the Emperor for a 
term of three years, and his jurisdiction extends 
over the Province of Kwang-tung and Kwang-se. 
There is also a Fou-youen, or Sub-Governor. The 
Tsoung-tow has the general control of all the civil 
and military affairs. The Fou-youen exercises a 



Dwarfing the Feet. 311 

similar kind of authority, but is more especially 
charged with the civil administration. 

A peculiar custom in China is that the aristocracy 
keep their women in seclusion. They rarely leave 
their residences, and are seldom seen in the shops. 
When it becomes necessary for them to go from 
one place to another, they are transported through 
the streets in a sedan chair, or jinrikishia, with 
their faces entirely concealed from view by a heavy 
veil. You will hardly ever see a woman on foot in 
the streets of a Chinese city, unless she belongs to 
the coolie order. One of the strangest and most 
usual customs which prevail, among the upper 
classes is the habit of compressing the feet of the 
women, a fashion dating, it is said, from the highest 
antiquity. From the time a little girl is born, her 
feet are compressed with tight bandages, which 
hinder their growth. Girls whose feet have not 
been properly tortured by bandages in infancy find 
it no easy matter to get married, especially if they 
are ambitious to marry a person of high rank. It 
is looked upon as a disgrace in China to be an old 
maid. The women of the lower class are not so 
particular about the size of their feet, and there are 
probably many coolie women who have never had 
shoes on their feet. 

Women are considered inferior beings in China, 
and have to endure all kinds of privation, contempt 
and degradation. When a son is born, there is 



312 Around the World. 

great rejoicing ; but the birth of a daughter is often 
regarded as a humiliation and disgrace to the family. 
A man is everything ; a woman, nothing. A young 
Chinese girl lives shut up in the house where she 
was born, and is treated by everybody as a menial. 
She is not taught to read or to write, her sole edu- 
cation consisting in learning how to use the needle. 
When she is old enough to be married, her husband 
is selected for her by her parents. She is never 
consulted, oftentimes does not even know the name 
of the man she is to marry. A young girl is simply 
an object of traffic, a piece of merchandise, to be 
sold to the highest bidder. 

In many parts of China, female children are 
drowned or suffocated soon after they are born. 
There are numerous reasons for this ; but the 
principal cause is the poverty of the parents. The 
birth of a male child is looked upon as a blessing, 
as a boy is soon able to work and help his parents, 
who rely upon him as a main support in their old 
age. A girl, on the contrary, is regarded as a mere 
burden. In certain localities, where the cultivation 
of cotton and the silk-worm industry furnish young 
girls with suitable occupation, they are allowed to 
live, and their parents are even unwilling to see 
them marry. Self-interest is the supreme motive 
of all Chinese. 

After spending several days in Canton, in which 
time I devoted myself to seeing the strange sights, 



The Rural Districts. 313 

and finding out what I could in regard to the man- 
ners, customs and social usages of this peculiar 
people, I made arrangements to visit the rural dis- 
tricts, as I wished to see something of the interior 
of China, outside of the great cities. The first 
step in this direction was to hire a couple of coolies 
and a sedan chair, and I was soon carried out 
among the rice fields and tea plantations, I also 
visited the silk districts. This is a peculiarly pro- 
ductive and fruitful region, and the whole country 
looks like a garden. The land is under the highest 
state of cultivation, and every nook and corner is 
well fertilized, irrigated, and covered with a vigor- 
ous growth of vegetation. Tropical fruits attain 
the highest perfection. The oranges, for example, 
though smaller than the Los A n^eles orange, were 
the sweetest and best flavored of any I have ever 
eaten. Everywhere could be seen instances of the 
untiring industry and energy of the Chinese. All 
manual labor is done by hand, and no machinery is 
used, either in planting or gathering their crops. 
Much of the land is so fertile, and cultivated with 
so much care and skill, that three harvests a year 
are regularly gathered. 

Next to rice, silk and tea, probably the most 
valuable production of China is the bamboo, which 
yields a large revenue. The uses to which it is 
applied are many and important. There are sixty- 
three varieties of bamboo in the Chinese Empire, 



314 Around the World. 

and a bamboo forest will yield a considerable 
revenue if the owner understands how to* regulate 
the cutting. The cultivation of useful vegetables 
is an industry to which the Chinese have always 
been especially devoted, and has always attracted 
the attention and received the encouragement of 
the government. 

Of all my journeyings in China, I found traveling 
on the rivers the liveliest and most amusing, The 
bays and rivers are all whitened with water craft of 
every kind and description, and the water, if any- 
thing, seems to be more populous than the towns. 
The boats are built in all sorts of fantastic shapes, 
— some like houses, others shaped like a fish ; and 
all sorts of extraordinary figures have been chosen 
for models. Some are of the rudest construction, 
and others fitted up with considerable pretensions 
to elegance. These boats cruise around inces- 
santly, without ever coming into collision with each 
other, and their skill in this respect is really won- 
derful ; but, then, they are born, live and die upon 
the water. 

Everything necessary for subsistence can be 
found upon these boats. Some are nothing more 
nor less than provision shops ; others are small 
bazaars; and the occupants of others are busily 
engaged in selling fruit, flowers, fresh fish, soup, 
rice, cakes, and many articles too numerous to men- 
tion. To add to the confusion of the scene at 



Meagre Pay and Cheap Living. 315 

night, they were incessantly beating the tom-tom 
and letting off fire-crackers. This river population, 
however, does not enjoy a very enviable reputation 
for intelligence, honesty or morality. It was a 
matter of wonder to me, at first, how they man- 
aged to keep their little children from being 
drowned ; but I soon discovered how they did it. 
They would tie a rope to the child's arm or body, 
and fasten the other end to the boat, or else they 
would tie an empty bottle^ or some other hollow 
vessel that would answer in place of a life- 
preserver, to the child's body. Accidents to these 
children are almost unknown ; they are apparently 
not born to be drowned. 

As another illustration of how poorly labor is 
remunerated in China, I will state that on one 
occasion I had a dozen shirts washed and ironed 
on one of these river craft, for which they charged 
me the small sum of thirty cents. The Chinese 
have reduced the cost of living to the lowest pos- 
sible figure, and an entire family can subsist 
comfortably, and have fish, rice, tea and vegeta- 
bles for ten cents per day. In the southern 
provinces the climate is warm and balmy, and very 
little clothing is needed for comfort, even in the 
winter months, and very little is worn by the lower 
classes. In mid-winter you will see people almost 
destitute of clothing. 

In the interior of China there are extensive 



816 Around the World. 

timber regions ; but no effort has ever been made 
to protect these forests, and they are fast disappear- 
ing. That is not to be wondered at, however, 
when civilized people in our own country are de- 
nuding our mountains of their magnificent growths 
of timber in the most reckless manner, and no 
effort is made to stop this vandalism. In swampy 
lands grow willow and bamboo, which are exten- 
sively used in the manufacture of furniture. China 
is also rich in mineral deposits ; but for many 
reasons this resource has never been developed. 
They have not the requisite facilities,, and transpor- 
tation, except along the lines of the rivers and 
canals, is exceedingly slow and tedious. There 
are vast pastoral regions in China ; but very little 
attention is paid to stock-raising, and the horses 
are small, and not so valuable as those found in 
other countries. 

It will thus be seen that the resources of China 
are vast and various, and, in addition to the va- 
riety of its natural productions, it possesses an 
inestimable boon in the industry of its inhabitants. 
The Chinese Government does not know how to 
turn to account the immense resources of the em- 
pire. Should the day ever come that this land 
shall have a wise and judicious ruler, one who is 
animated by a zeal for the public good, and has 
patience enough to guide this industrious people 
into new and untried fields of labor, the condi- 



Coolie Tandem Team. 317 

tion of the lower classes will be considerably 
ameliorated. 

In the interior of China, off from the line of the 
water-courses and canals, and especially in the 
mountainous districts, the roads are very rough 
and narrow, and in the remoter regions are more 
like trails than roads. On bad roads, the sedan 
chair, or palanquin, is much used, and is the most 
comfortable conveyance. A team of four coolies 
can travel at the rate of six miles an hour. On 
good roads the two-wheeled jinrikishia is the pref- 
erable conveyance, the motive power generally 
being a tandem team of two coolies, although 
occasionally in some districts a horse is used. 

The following was written from Canton to the 
Modesto, Cal., Herald : 

LETTER FROM CANTON. 

Canton, China, Dec. 24, 1885. 
Editor Herald: — Since the last notes I sent you from India, I have 
traveled some 15,000 miles more on the Orient side of the globe. I came 
over the Indian Ocean, around to Australia. This was a pleasant journey 
with a calm sea. In Australia I traveled about 6, 000 miles by land and 
water. In the interior I went by railway 1,200 miles, including the principal 
portions of her farming and mineral districts, and in many respects I found 
Australia to be a poor country, especially in the line of agriculture. The 
last four years have been a succession of drouths, and have been severely 
felt by sheep and stock men, as well as teamsters. Harvest had just com- 
menced when I was there, but it will only be small strips of grain that will 
be cut. The best I saw was in Adelaide and Melbourne valleys and in Vic- 
toria; but these had poor impression on my mind favorable to an agricultural 
country New South Wales and Queensland, in many parts, were dry as a 
bone, and destitute of vegetation. Water-courses had run dry, and a great 
number of stock had perished, and the balance was on the brink of starvation. 



318 Around the World. 

Australia will have to import wheat largely this year from New Zealand or 
other places ; but the rise and fall in wheat does not trouble my mind. 
Enjoying sights and the customs and manners among the different nations 
on the globe, is at present the height of my ambition. 

From Australia I embarked for China by way of Torres Strait, 
Manila, and the Philippine Islands. Here the tropical fruits and foliage were 
growing in profusion. The green hillsides had the appearance of beautiful 
landscapes. The first half of the passage was the hottest since I crossed 
the Red Sea. While we were sailing in the tropics, over the Gulf of Carpen- 
taria, near the Equator, it was 108 degrees in the cabin saloon. This seems 
warm for December; but it had to be endured. The last part of this voyage 
has been a stormy one over the China Sea. The rolling waves have washed 
the hurricane decks from stem to stern. However, the faithful iron steamer 
has plunged through the swell of the sea, and anchored us safely in the 
Flowery Kingdom. 

After I had done the principal sights of Hong-Kong, I took a steamer up 
the Pearl River ninety miles to Canton, the Paris of China, and here I 
expect to eat my bird's-nest soup to-morrow for Christmas dinner. I have 
seen many curious sights in Canton, including the largest temple, with its 500 
Joshes. Here I had to ride in the sedan chairs in the narrow streets, carried 
by two Chinamen, but found it cheaper to make use of the coolies' legs 
than to wear out my own. Here you see the style for the ladies to pinch 
their feet instead of Modestoans who pinch their waists. 

After I have visited all the leading points of interest in the Celestial 
Empire, I will extend my tour to Japan, and, after sightseeing in that 
country to my satisfaction, I will embark for San Francisco by way of Hono- 
lulu, and my trip around the world will be about 50,000 miles, or long 
enough to have earned the right to be in fellowship with other " Globe 
Trotters." Truly yours, Osmun Johnson. 



Chinese Fishing Fleets. 319 



CHAPTER XVII. 

CHINESE COAST AND SHANGHAI. 

Having finished my tour in the interior of China, 
I returned to Hong-Kong, where I embarked for 
Shanghai on the steamer Thibet, belonging to the 
P. and O. Steamship Company, Captain Moody 
commanding. The greater part of the voyage we 
were in sight of the China shore. Along this coast 
is a range of mountains, or hills, apparently desti- 
tute of vegetation, and here and there a peak 
towering high above the level of the others adds to 
the picturesqueness of the scene. It was now the 
typhoon season, and we met with a heavy gale 
which sent one of our life-boats into the boisterous 
sea. This storm, however, was of short duration, 
and we did not feel its effects so much as if we had 
been in the open ocean, instead of being so near 
the coast. Four hundred miles from Shanghai is 
a place called Turnabout, which is a diverging place 
for steamers. 

The principal objects of interest on this route 
were the Chinese fishing fleets, and we would often 
see as many as fifty of these boats in a group. 
They are divided off into pairs, and drift leisurely 



320 Around the World. 

along until their boats are filled, when they take 
their cargo to one of the principal ports and dispose 
of it. The fish are usually either dried or salted. 
As the Chinese waters are teeming with all kinds 
of fish, this industry forms one of the principal re- 
sources of the people along the coast, and they 
carry it on the year around, regardless of typhoons, 
monsoons, or any of the perils of the deep. 

The principal ports at which we touched on this 
voyage were Swatow, Foochow, Ningpo and Amoy. 
These are regular coaling- stations for the different 
lines of steamers that ply along the Chinese coast. 
Boats often take refuge in these harbors to avoid 
being shipwrecked by the fearful gales which pre- 
vail during the typhoon season. Swatow is a sea- 
port town in the Province of Kwang-tung. It has 
a good harbor, and carries on quite an extensive 
commerce. 

Amoy is in the Province of Fokien. It is situ- 
ated on the slope of a hill on the southern coast of 
a small and barren island ; is a large and exceed- 
ingly dirty place, about nine miles in circumference, 
and is estimated to have a population of 250,000. 
Both its foreign and coast trade are extensive and 
valuable, and its native merchants are considered 
to be among the wealthiest and most enterprising 
in China. Amoy was captured by the British in 
1 84 1, and was one of the five ports opened by the 
commerce of Great Britain by the treaty of 1842. 



Foochow. 321 

Foochow is the capital of Fokien, and is situ- 
ated 150 miles north of Amoy. Fou signifies, in 
China, a town of the first order ; tcheou, a town of 
the second order ; and tsieh, a town of the third 
order. These three orders of towns are always 
enclosed by ramparts. Foochow is surrounded by 
a wall seven miles in extent, and from twenty to 
twenty-five feet high. There are seven gates in 
this wall, over each of which are high towers. 
Outside of each gate are large suburbs, the most 
extensive being those on the south side of the city, 
which are called Nanti. These extend southward 
four miles along both sides of the river, and com- 
municate, by two bridges, with a small, densely 
populated island called Chungchow. The nor- 
thern bridge is called the Bridge of Ten Thousand 
Ages, and is said to be over 800 years old. 

The city is irregularly built, and the houses are of 
wood, and usually one story high. The streets are 
paved with granite, and in many instances planted 
with trees ; but they are exceedingly filthy and 
narrow, and are infested with beggars, whose 
appearance is loathsome in the extreme. A great 
number of the inhabitants live in boats on the 
river. Some of the residences of the civil and 
military officers of the province are handsome 
buildings, and the temples are numerous. A 
singular feature of Foochow is the great number 
of towers erected in all parts of the city, — on the 

21 



322 Around the World. 

walls, over the streets, and even on the house- 
tops, — some of which are covered with grotesque 
ornaments. There are several cotton, paper and 
hardware manufactories here, also several hundred 
furnaces for making porcelain. There are lead 
mines near by, and great tea-growing districts 
within seventy miles. The commerce of this city 
is chiefly with Japan and the maritime provinces of 
China. This port is much frequented. The chan- 
nel of the river, and a sheet of water called Lihu, 
or West Lake, on the western side of the city, is 
crowded with all kinds of vessels and floating habi- 
tations. 

Ningpo, the principal city of the Province of 
Cheh-kiang, is situated on the Takia or Ningpo 
River, about sixteen miles from its mouth. It 
stands in a fertile plain, and is surrounded by a 
fine old wall twenty-five feet high, sixteen feet 
broad, and from four to five miles in circumference. 
There are six gates and two passages for ships, in 
this wall. Ningpo contains a population of about 
a half a million. In ascending the river the huge 
ice-houses, with high thatched roofs, and a large 
white tower, which rises to the height of 160 feet, 
and has fourteen stories, will attract the eye of the 
stranger. This place has long been celebrated for 
its religious and educational pre-eminence, and con- 
tains a large number of temples, monasteries and 
colleges, few of them of any architectural preten- 






Shanghai. 323 



<5 



sions. In the centre of the city is a striking 
structure called the Drum Tower, which dates 
from before the fifteenth century. Brick is the 
ordinary building material, and the dwelling houses 
are mostly one story. Large salt works are carried 
on in the vicinity of Ningpo. Between the months 
of April and July, thousands of fishermen are 
engaged in catching- cuttle-fish. 

Shanghai is situated on the western bank of 
Hwang-pu River, about twelve miles from the point 
where the river empties into the estuary of the 
Yang-tse-kiang. It seems more like a part of the 
ocean than a river, however, as it is so wide at its 
mouth that both banks can not be seen at the same 
time. The walls which surround the city are about 
three and one-half miles in circumference, and are 
pierced by seven gates. The old or native por- 
tion of the town may be said to illustrate all of the 
worst features of Chinese cities. The streets are 
narrow and dirty, and there is an entire absence of 
all sanitary arrangements; in fact, the native town 
has nothing but its geographical position to recom- 
mend it. However, as it possesses a good and 
commodious anchorage, and is easy of access to 
the ocean, it forms the principal port of Central 
China. From the western wall of the city, there 
stretches a rich alluvial plain which extends over 
an area of 45,000 square miles, and is intersected 
by numerous waterways and great chains of lakes. 



324 Around the World. 

Old and New Shanghai are said to have a com- 
bined population of 500,000 inhabitants, including 
the boat population, which numbers over 1 1,000. 

On anchoring at Shanghai, we were, as is usual 
in Chinese ports, surrounded by the moon-eyed 
runners of both sexes, in their rickety sampans, 
who seemed considerably more anxious that the 
passengers should be conveyed from the ship to 
the shore than the passengers themselves were. A 
landing being effected, we found the Avharf lined 
with traveling chairs and jinrikishias. After select- 
ing my sedan chair, I was carried along by the 
two coolies at a lively rate, and proceeded at once 
to take observations on the Oriental and Occi- 
dental sights which I passed, finding them to be 
many and interesting, especially in the Chinese 
quarters. 

Both portions of the town are situated on nearly 
level ground, the part occupied by the foreign 
population stretching along the banks of the River 
Hwang-pu, and there are many handsome dwellings 
and extensive warehouses. The public buildings, 
especially in the British settlement, are large and 
fine, and what was once a reed-covered swamp is 
now one of the finest cities in the East. In strolling 
with my guide from the European to the native 
town, I found the contrast to be most striking. 
On one hand were lofty mansions, and broad, clean 
streets, where occasionally one would get a glimpse 



Oriental and Occidental Life. 325 

of some fair European damsel, which, here let me 
remark, are exceedingly scarce in Asia. To my 
mind, they will always outshine the native beauties, 
no matter how hio-h the rank or how small the feet. 
In the Chinese city were narrow streets or lanes, 
which seemed to run in every direction but the 
right one. 

The commerce of Shanghai is said to be more 
extensive than that of any other port in the Eastern 
world, not excepting Calcutta or Bombay. In the 
European settlement, Great Britain, America, 
Germany and France are represented. The native 
city presents a strange conglomeration of wealth 
and poverty. By the side of the merchant clothed 
in a costly silken robe, could be seen the professional 
beggar, or the poor coolie, whose only covering 
was filthy rags, and who was loaded down like a 
pack animal with his heavy bamboo baskets. Here 
was the child of the Orient, and there the traveler 
from foreign lands. The streets were filled with 
people, some riding comfortably along in their 
traveling chairs, others peddling curios and simple 
wares. It was certainly a strange conglomeration. 

I had now come to the conclusion that all of the 
large Chinese cities bear a close resemblance to 
each other, and, when you have seen one, with the 
exception of a few variations, you have seen them 
all. I found the saying, " that, when you have seen 
Canton, you have seen the best and worst of China," 



326 Around the World. 

to be true. There is the same life, the same bustle, 
the same confusion, the same idolatrous worship 
of Brahma, Buddha or Confucius, as the case may 
be, — the same everything. 

As my visit to China occurred in mid-winter, my 
tour did not extend to Peking, and I thereby 
missed getting even a glimpse of the youthful 
Emperor's palace. The principal visitors to Peking 
are diplomates. As it is in the extreme northern 
portion of the empire, it is not generally visited 
by many travelers ; and I was frequently told, that, 
when I had seen Shanghai and Canton, I had seen 
the best of China. 

While there was much, of course, that I left 
unseen, I had traveled over a considerable area in 
the Chinese Empire, and had spent some little time 
among this strange people, with whose habits and 
customs I had already become to some extent 
familiar from my observations among them in 
California, where they have become quite numerous 
since the discovery of gold in 1849, but whose 
coming is now restricted by acts of Congress and 
treaty stipulations. Much more knowledge, how- 
ever, was to be gained of them in their own 
country, and the time passed among them was 
pleasantly and profitably spent. 

I must now bid adieu to the Flowery Kingdom, 
and resume my journey eastward. 



From China to Japan. 327 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

THE YELLOW SEA, AND COAST AND COAST TOWNS 
OF JAPAN. 

On the 15th of February I embarked at 
Shanghai on the steamer Costa Rica for Nagasaki, 
in Japan, and we were soon drifting into the Yellow 
Sea, with the last objects of the Celestial Empire 
gradually fading from our view. With a stiff mon- 
soon breeze in our favor, we soon crossed the 
Yang-tsi bar, and in forty-eight hours the beautiful 
coast of Japan appeared before us. The Yellow 
Sea, whose waters mingle with those of the China 
Sea, is noted for being very boisterous. Typhoon 
gales, causing shipwrecks, are of frequent occur- 
rence ; but fortunately our voyage was brief and 
pleasant, and without accident or incident worthy 
of note. Nagasaki, the first seaport city in Japan, 
is of considerable commercial importance, and is 
also a great coaling station for several large steam- 
ship lines. Coal is the staple export. 

The first feature of interest noticed in sailing 
into this port is the long, narrow harbor, which 
appeared to be rim-bound by lofty and uniform 
ranges of hills. This harbor, next to Sydney and 



328 Around the World. 

Hong-Kong, is the most beautiful in the world. 
The sloping, picturesque hills in the background, 
cultivated, as they are, to perfection by terrace 
farming, present, from their tops to the water's 
edge, a variety of tropical plants, and add greatly 
to the beauty of the city's surroundings. The 
highest of these hills is called Hicockson, from 
which I obtained a most excellent view of the city, 
its harbor, and the surrounding country. Many 
vessels lay at anchor, among others two American 
ships, with the stars and stripes flying to the breeze, 
and serving as a reminder that every day was now 
bringing me nearer home. 

The population of Nagasaki is about 15,000, 
consisting principally of Japanese, with about 300 
Europeans. The principal points of interest in 
the city are the pagodas, public bath houses, tea 
houses and fifteen temples for worshipers of 
Buddha. Buddhism is the religion of the country. 
Foreign missionaries of various denominations 
have done much to convert the people to Chris- 
tianity, and both Catholics and Protestants have 
houses of worship here, where they have met with 
better success in their work than in other parts of 
Asia. 

Japan, however, has few missionaries compared 
to the extent of the field before them ; and it will 
require more than a mere handful of Christian 
men to remove the superstitious faith of 37,000,000 



Japanese Enterprise. 329 

heathens imbued with the idolatrous practice and 
teaching of Buddhism. But the work done so 
far has been well done ; and, however slow the 
good work may be going on, the natives are gradu- 
ally abandoning the old faith for the new, and there 
are marked evidences everywhere, that the Jap- 
anese are a more progressive race, with a higher 
civilization, than their celestial neighbors across 
the Yellow Sea. They are fast imitating Euro- 
peans in all the arts and sciences, and a large 
number of their young men are sent to Europe 
and America to be educated in the best institutions 
of learning. The Japanese officials and people of 
rank are imitating Europeans in dress and customs 
to a small extent ; but the people of the lower 
orders do not seem to have either means or desire 
to imitate anything, and the men and women 
among them dress much the same. 

One of the sights which most attracted my atten- 
tion in Nagasaki was the women stevedores. I 
saw fifty Japanese women loading our vessel with 
coal. They were strung out in a line, standing six 
feet apart on planks, the line reaching from the 
coal barge to the steamer ; and in this manner the 
coal was transferred in little bags by being tossed 
from one woman to another along the line until its 
destination was reached. Another gang, consist- 
ing of small girls, were similarly engaged in 
tossing back the empty bags to be refilled, and in 




Japanese Woman Spinning Silk. 
(330) 



The "Inland Sea." 331 

this way 400 tons of coal was transferred from the 
bargee to the steamer within four hours. These 
little Japanese coolie women, dressed in rags, were 
as active as cats until their task was finished ; and 
their weather-beaten complexions were in no wise 
beautified by handling the coal. This novel piece 
of drudgery was my first sight of women acting as 
stevedores ; but, while it might be a novel one in 
San Francisco or New York, it was not along the 
shores of Japan. 

I visited with much interest the tea houses and 
the various temples, through which I was piloted 
by my guide. Before entering these sacred pre- 
cincts, my shoes had to be removed, and I walked 
over the floors in my stocking feet while viewing 
the glittering bronze images representing their 
idolatrous religion. These temples are as sacred 
to these heathens as St. Peter's is to the Romans. 
Christianity is to-day protected in Japan, and 
Nagasaki is now, as it has been in former years, 
the nursery of the Christian religion on the island. 
At present there are about 50,000 of various 
denominations in this vicinity who are devotees of 
the Christian faith. 

After taking in all the sights at this place, I 
embarked for Yokohama by way of the " Inland 
Sea," visiting several seaports along the coast. 
After leaving the harbor of Nagasaki, we passed 
through a narrow entrance guarded by fortifica- 



332 Around the World. 

tions, and the next object that came in sight was 
Papenberg Island, from which many thousand 
Christians were hurled into the sea over 200 years 
ago, in an attempt to forever abolish Christianity 
from the Island of Japan. 

From Shimonoseki to Kobe, the entire length of 
the Inland Sea is 275 miles. This is, without 
doubt, the loveliest sheet of water in the world. 
Neither Lake Tahoe, Lake Como, Lake Luzern 
or Christiania Fjorden, in Norway, compares with 
this beautiful blue sheet of water dotted with its 
3,000 picturesque islands. In whatever direction 
the eye turns, a panoramic view meets it that baffles 
description. Every nook along the shore pre- 
sented to view clusters of villages, and the hillsides 
were dotted with cozy homes of terrace farms, with 
every acre cultivated to perfection by the industrious 
Japanese. The foliage of trees on the islands cast- 
ing shadows in the sea, and the swarms of Japanese 
fishing boats of every description, added to the 
attractiveness of the scene. This sea being difficult 
to navigate, on account of the narrow and crooked 
passages between the clusters of islands, lighthouses 
and signals are stationed all along the coast, and 
steamers are all required by law to carry pilots. 
Never before in my life can I record having seen 
so many beautiful attractions in so short a voyage 
as that over this Inland Sea, — scenes which will 
never be forgotten. 



Kobe. 333 

Kobe is situated half way between Nagasaki and 
Yokohama. It is the only city in Japan' in which 
the Europeans have control of the municipal 
government, and is the second seaport in size and 
importance in Japan. Kobe has a deep harbor; 
and we were here saved the trouble and annoyance 
of having to be transported from the ship to the 
shore in the boats of noisy runners, who infest 
many of the seaports of these islands ; for here we 
were moored to the wharf, and could step ashore 
without danger to life or limb. The European 
colony is built on the water front, and has many 
attractive public and private buildings. Enter- 
prising merchants and ship-owners here do a large 
commercial business with Chinese and Japanese 
ports. 

The streets in Japanese cities are much broader 
than those in China; but the houses are light frame 
structures of light boards, and generally two stories 
in height. The windows have paper lights instead 
of glass. In fact, glass is not used in Japan, either 
in windows or doors. The latter are worked on 
slides, on which they are easily moved, being 
almost as light as a feather. The houses have little 
furniture of any description, as it is not considered 
necessary to comfort in Japan; but a white straw 
carpet covers the floors. Their quaint little houses 
are kept as neat as a pin, and the whole family sit 
on the floor in a group when eating their meals. 



334 Around the World. 

The kitchen is the main room, though strangers 
are always entertained up-stairs. 

A stranger entering one of these houses, is 
generally met at the entrance by two of the 
inmates, who make salutations by bowing three 
times, each succeeding bow being lower than the 
preceding one ; when, for the last one they get 
down on their knees, and bow nearly to the floor 
with their heads. The stranger is then invited to 
remove his shoes, and is escorted up-stairs in his 
stocking feet. His shoes must be left at the door 
under all circumstances. The reason of this rule 
being enforced is to preserve the carpet from being 
soiled. The kitchen floor is not generally carpeted, 
nor painted ; but it is varnished, and kept as bright 
as a mirror. They do not propose to have it 
scratched by the foreigner's shoes. All Japanese 
wear wooden shoes, with a strap over the toes. 
These shoes are so simple that it takes but a second 
to remove them at the door before entering. The 
bath is taken in a large vat adjoining the kitchen. 
Bathing in Japan is considered as necessary as 
eating. 

Hiogo is separated from Kobe by a small 
stream, and is densely populated. The sights of 
interest in this city were its temples, theatres, shops 
and tea houses. The tea houses of Japan are 
classed as the moral and immoral. A vulgar dance 
house is often called a tea house, The native 



Japanese Theatres. 335 

restaurants, road stations, or wayside inns, where 
refreshments of sweets with tea and saki are 
served, are also called tea houses. 

The theatre in Japan begins in the morning, and 
continues all through the day, and the audience 
carry their lunch with them. To a stranger the 
performances appear to be of the simplest and sil- 
liest nature, not over three performers appear- 
ing on the stage at a time ; and in many instances 
the performance is similar to those of the Chinese. 
The music is poor and uninteresting ; it sounded 
like chink-chink-chink. To be compelled to re- 
main in a Japanese theatre all day would prove 
extremely monotonous to a foreigner. On enter- 
ing a Japanese theatre, you are compelled to 
ascend a flight of stairs, the performance being on 
the upper floor, where there are no seats, except 
small mats, which are placed on the floor for each 
person who enters ; and no other alternative is left 
but to sit flat on the floor. A box with hot char- 
coal is placed by the side of each auditor, from 
which he can light his pipe or warm his hands and 
feet during the performance. The admission to a 
Japanese theatre is four cens, or two cents, which 
is very reasonable compared to prices charged in 
European and American cities. This admission 
entitles the visitor to remain all day and witness 
all the various plays. Stoves are not used in 
Japan, but in their stead braziers or small wooden 



336 Around the World. 

boxes with a charcoal fire made in the centre. 
This fire is usually kept in the kitchen, where the 
family sit, surrounding it as we do a stove or fire- 
place. 

From Kobe I visited two of the most important 
cities in Japan, Osaka and Kioto. It is twenty 
miles by rail from Kobe to Osaka, and the route is 
over the most fertile and level section of country in 
Japan. We passed through, on this journey, a 
continuous line of well-cultivated gardens planted 
into " paddy fields," each divided into half-acre 
lots, and levied for irrigation. These fields were 
clothed with the most luxuriant vegetation, even 
though it was winter. 

Osaka is situated on a level plain, is one of the 
three imperial cities of Japan, and is the second 
city in size in the empire, having a population of 
nearly half a million inhabitants. The city is built 
on both sides of the headwaters of the Yodagawa, 
and steamers can enter from the port of Hiogo and 
Kobe; but the large bulk of freight is carried by 
rail via Kobe. A great many small canals are cut 
through the city, and the bridges of Osaka can be 
counted by the hundreds, reminding one of Venice 
or Stockholm. 

I visited while here many places of interest, and 
was entertained by many interesting sights. 
Among these was the castle on the banks of one of 
the many streams which intersect the city. Its wall, 



The Bronze Temple of Osaka. 337 

sloping from the water's edge, and built of immense 
blocks of granite, is sixty feet high. Near the 
castle are two forts, and a garrison of 15,000 men. 
The Imperial Mint, also located here, covers an 
area of forty acres. 

The Buddhist temples of Osaka -number about 
1,400, many of which I visited, where I found great 
numbers of devoted natives on their knees clapping 
their hands in devotional prayer to their idols. 
The Temple Tennoji, situated in the outskirts of 
the city, is the largest and most imposing. I paid 
a priest here two cents to inspect all the bronze 
idols contained within this temple, and for the same 
price was permitted to climb to the top, from which 
I obtained an admirable view of this interesting 
city, the surrounding country and ocean for many 
miles. 

In riding through this strange city with my 
coolie team in a two-wheeled jinrikishia, I was 
greatly confused with strange sights and customs. 
My tour through the city was made all the more 
interesting, on account of it being a holiday. It 
was a New Year's, or tenth day of rest. On this 
occasion I had an opportunity of seeing people of 
every rank and grade, of both sexes, and repre- 
senting ages from one to eighty " years, who 
thronged the streets in their holiday attire, cele- 
brating with the greatest pomp and ceremony at 
their sacred shrines. Thousands of women carried 
22 



338 Around the World. 

their babies lashed to their backs, Indian fashion. 
The lips of the young women were painted blood 
red, and their cheeks were smeared with white lead. 
The ugliest among the married women had their 
teeth blackened. 

Every one was bareheaded, without exception, 
from an officer of the hio-hest rank to a coolie of 
the lowest order ; and many who were too dignified 
to walk were pushed and pulled along in the jin- 
rikishia, or carried in a palanquin (or traveling 
chair used by the better classes) by the half-naked 
coolies. Adding to all this the loud gibbering and 
bawling in the native tongue, and the continuous 
clattering from their wooden shoes, and there was 
a combination of noises and sights which were 
hard on the ears, but exceedingly interesting to the 
eye. For variety and confusion, this exceeded 
anything I have witnessed in China. Such scenes 
were quite a novelty to me at first ; but, after five 
weeks' rambling through the empire, I became 
better acquainted with the native customs, and the 
novelty of the thing soon disappeared. 

I was soon able to handle the chop-sticks in 
eating the soaked rice and other native foods. A 
good appetite created the necessity for learning 
this art, and forced me to take advantage of the 
opportunity. Raw fish is a dish relished by many 
of the native population ; but this was more than 
my appetite could relish, and I afterward discov- 



Banging the Hair. 339 

ered that it was more a matter of taste than 
practice in Japan. 

The male population of Japan are small and 
slender, and the greater number are also bow- 
legged, and very unattractive in appearance. The 
females are very small, short waisted, have a 
healthy complexion, small black eyes, and are 
much better looking than the men. The female 
beauties exhibit great taste in ornamenting their 
hair according to the custom of the country. I do 
not suppose that there is another nation in the 
world whose women take more pains, or exhibit 
more pride in dressing and ornamenting the hair 
than the Japanese. As a rule, women barbers go 
from house to house, where they spend two or 
three hours on a single head. After banging and 
combing, the polishing touch is put on with a good 
supply of sticky grease, which gives the hair an 
exceedingly glossy appearance. The hair is 
dressed in this manner generally once a week, but 
never oftener than twice. After the hair is "done 
up " in this slow and expensive manner, they take 
the greatest precaution to preserve it intact as long 
as possible, which is more easily done, as wooden 
blocks, lined with velvet and cut to fit the neck, 
are used instead of pillows, and sleeping in this 
manner enables them to preserve the ornamenta- 
tion of their hair for days at a time. 

The women wear loose-fitting costumes, except 



340 Around the World. 

around the feet, where the fit is so close as to impede 
the motion of the limbs, so that, at first sight, one 
would hardly believe they could walk at all. Over 
the upper portion of the body a loose over-blouse 
is worn, with the sleeves a foot or so longer than 
the arms ; and at a hasty glance the body has more 
the appearance of being wrapped in loose cloth 
than in a dress suit. The men wear black clothes 
wrapped tightly around their legs as a substitute 
for pants, a loose blouse over the upper portion of 
the body, and an overskirt reaching nearly to the 
feet. Without regard to rank or, sex, they all 
wear flat, high wooden shoes, with snow-white 
stockings. Everybody goes bareheaded, from the 
infant to the aged; and, no matter whether you 
meet them on the highway, in the remotest part of 
the country, in the densely crowded city, or 
whether they are exposed to the blazing sun or the 
bracing frost, they are bareheaded, this being the 
custom on their lovely island. 

The marriage customs are similar to those of the 
Chinese, — the contract being made by the parents 
or middle-men instead of by the parties themselves, 
and it is of frequent occurrence that the groom 
and his intended bride have never seen each other 
before the day of marriage. The wedding cere- 
mony consists in coming forward, and, in the pres- 
ence of the mediators, taking each other by the 
hand, and drinking saki, the native wine. It is 




(341; 



342 Around the World. 

the custom for the newly married couple to go and 
live with the bridegroom's parents ; and, after 
three or four years of married life, the man is 
allowed to buy another wife, so that a man fre- 
quently has two or more wives, according to his 
means. The price of a wife varies from $80 to 
$300, and even higher, according to her rank and 
beauty. While visiting a friend in Yokohama, I 
learned the following facts, illustrative of the hold 
this peculiar custom has upon the people. In his 
employ was a female Japanese servant who had 
been married two years, and who was now working 
to earn enough to enable her husband to procure a 
second wife. I talked with the woman, and dis- 
covered her reason for so doing. She said she 
thought it was all right, as the money would be 
spent in a good cause, — an opinion in which our 
American and European wives would hardly be 
found to concur. 

The husband here has a riorht to divorce himself 
at any time from any or all of his wives, after they 
have been living together a sufficient length of 
time, provided they have no children. The hus- 
band has more privileges than the wife under all 
circumstances, he being the lord and master of the 
household, and the wife the slave. 

Girl babies are not considered desirable by the 
Japanese, and, when a girl is born into the world, 
it is regarded as a misfortune by the family ; 



Politeness of the Japanese. 343 

whereas, on the birth of a boy, the reverse is the 
case, and there is great rejoicing, it being looked 
upon as a profitable increase. The peculiar cus- 
tom is practiced of exhibiting fish on every house 
where a boy has been born within a year. 

An agreeable feature of travel among the Jap- 
anese is their extreme politeness, it being as 
natural for them to be polite to each other as it is 
for them to eat. Politeness is a part of their 
religious teaching, impressed upon their minds 
from infancy ; and, wherever and whenever they 
meet, they make salutations by bowing several 
times, each apparently endeavoring to bow lower 
than the other. 

It was amusing to see children of every age, in 
the cities or villages, swarming in the roads and 
streets, which they use for a playground, and those 
that were too small to walk were fastened to the 
backs of their older and larger sisters, papoose 
fashion. I have sometimes counted twenty or 
thirty of these little girls, from six years upward, in 
groups, where they played for hours, each with a 
little one on her back. All were bareheaded, most 
of the small children had their heads closely 
shaved, and many were clothed only in rags 
padded over each other, presenting quite a comical 
appearance. I was informed that they were thus 
sent out into the streets to play, with the younger 
ones strapped upon the backs of the older ones, in 



344 Around the World. 

order that the mothers might be relieved of the 
care and trouble of looking after them. The 
absence of street-cars, carriages, and other vehicles 
with horses attached, rendered it perfectly safe for 
them to be in the streets. 

The Japanese dancing and singing girls also 
afforded considerable amusement. There are 
organized groups of these maidens who travel 
around and sing and play for pay. They are 
generally girls of respectability, and sing in sing- 
ing halls, while the dancing girls are generally 
of a low order, and find their audiences among 
the tea houses. Owing to the peculiar inhar- 
monious sounds from the odd-looking musical 
instruments used by the singers, one not accus- 
tomed to or unacquainted with Japanese music 
would have no desire to attend one of these 
exhibitions more than once. I witnessed a dance 
by three of these dancing girls given at one of the 
tea houses ; and, from the manner in which they 
exhibited their persons, and from the motions of 
their bodies, together with the constant manoeuvres 
with their fans while dancing, I would judge the 
whole affair to be of an immoral nature. In one 
corner of the room sat an elderly woman playing 
a guitar, or three-stringed banjo, and heartily 
laughing, to attract the attention of the audience. 
One attendance at a place like this was enough for 
me. The dance was called Jon Keno, a name well 
befitting it. 



Kioto. 345 

I now turned my eyes toward Kioto, twenty 
miles by rail from Osaka. Kioto is called the City 
of Temples. It was the capital of Japan for over 
a thousand years ; but within the last fifteen years 
the seat of government has been moved to 
Yeddo, or Tokio, a more central location in the 
empire. At one time Kioto had over a million 
inhabitants; but the population in 1870 was esti- 
mated at 370,000. This city and its environs is 
one of the most interesting places in Japan. It is 
situated in a valley between the ridges Hujsizan 
and Higushiyama on the east, and of Tennosan on 
the west. The hills surrounding the city are 
covered with temples, pagodas and shrines cf the 
Shinto and Buddha sects. A visitor can have 
access to every department of these by paying two 
cents to the attending priest, who, with shaven 
head and in stocking feet, shows visitors through 
these temples, groaning slightly as he gives the 
history of the sacred idol. Glittering decorations 
of bronze bedeck the sacred images. 

I was informed that Kioto had 300 temples of 
the Shinto sect, and probably as many more of the 
Buddhist persuasion. At the festivals, the follow- 
ers of Buddha, while pleading to the bronze images, 
clap their hands, while the priest beats a tom-tom. 
They believe that the souls of the dead visit their 
families every year, on the 13th day of August, 
and remain three days before they return to the 



346 Around the World. 

tomb. The Shinto temples are similar to those of 
the Buddhists on the exterior; but at the altar, on 
the inside, they make a display of looking-glasses, 
or mirrors, before which they perform their rites. 
These looking-glasses, or mirrors, serve as a sub- 
stitute for the sun, which was worshiped in ancient 
times by these people, and is still the great object 
of religious veneration among the followers of the 
Shinto doctrine. These temples contain numerous 
pictures of horses, and I was led to believe that 
this animal held a sacred place in their hearts, 
which I afterward discovered to be the fact. This 
sect have a kind of spirit worship, the word sinto 
in fact meaning spirit worship ; and they believe 
that great numbers of spirits exercise an influence 
over the world, the sun being the greatest of all, 
and the elements after him. These are called Dai 
Zin, meaning " Great Spirit." There are a large 
number of inferior spirits also, — heroes, in the 
main, who have been canonized for their worthy 
deeds or good qualities. Among the latter there 
is one called Fatsman, the God of War. 

The Sinto was the ancient faith of Japan ; but 
Buddhism has taken its place to a great extent. 
The two religions, however, are badly mixed up, 
Buddhism having appropriated many of the Sinto 
doctrines, and the Sinto sects having taken up 
many modes of worship, and images, from Bud- 
hism. I was told that many rejected both of these 



The Mikado. 347 

religions, and *the idol worship attending them. 
Among these were some of the best-educated peo- 
ple who were the followers of Confucius and his 
teachings, and belonged to a school of philosophers 
called Sinto. The latter have no temples or 
external forms of worship, but follow, as a rule of 
life, the precepts of the great Chinese sage. 

I was very much impressed with the total absence 
of hostility between the different sects. The 
greatest toleration prevails, and all classes believe 
in a spiritual Emperor called Dairi, whose proper 
title is the Mikado. He is supposed to be the 
vicegerent of God on earth, absolute in power 
and of divine commission. He claims descent from 
Sin Mu, who was the first to establish a regular 
government in Japan, about 600 B. C. The person 
of this being is considered so sacred, and he is con- 
sidered so holy, that it would be desecration for 
him to be exposed to the open air, or to touch his 
feet upon the ground. Many other silly notions 
concerning him are entertained, and all bow to him 
as the one great Superior. They also have a sacred 
dance before their idols. 

One of the most imposing sights in Kioto is the 
old Imperial Palace building and square, contain- 
ing about thirty acres, surrounded by a high wall. 
On entering, we passed through a large iron \gate. 
I was more impressed with the quaintness of its 
architecture than with its beauty. Since the 




(348) 



Temples and Tea Houses. 349 

removal of the Mikado to Tokio, little attention 
has been given to its repairs by the Viceroy. 

One of the greatest attractions in the city is an 
image of Buddha, which contains many tons of 
bronze. Kioto contains many ruins which mark a 
period of calamity from earthquake and fire. I 
found it the most interesting city in Japan on 
account of its ancient and modern wonders. Be- 
sides her numerous temples and shrines, there are 
many theatres, tea houses and amusements of every 
kind, a detailed description of which can not be 
given in these pages, as time and space will permit 
a brief mention only of the principal objects of 
interest. The shops are filled with curious and 
costly wares, silk factories are numerous, and tea- 
curing establishments, where many hundreds of 
women are constantly employed. 

I obtained a commanding view of the city and 
surrounding country from the top of the mountain 
called Shogan Zuka, to which I was carried in a 
traveling chair by coolies. From this height I 
was enabled to study the topography of the district 
in every direction. The manner in which this 
broken region is cultivated by terrace farming 
from the hill-tops to the bottom of the deepest 
ravines, a system of cultivation which I observed 
in all parts of Japan, impressed upon my mind the 
reason why 37,000,000 people were enabled to 
subsist in a country smaller than California. 



350 Around the World. 

There is a similarity in many respects between 
Japan and California in regard to climate and soil, 
though California is far ahead of Japan and of 
every other country under the sun, in climate and 
in resources, and in the favors which nature has 
extended ; and yet California now supports only 
one million of people, while Japan supports thirty- 
seven millions. While California, up to the present 
time, has depended mainly on her great fields of 
wheat, requiring the labor of but few, who are 
sparsely settled over her vast and fertile valleys, 
Japan is tilling every foot of her fertile soil to 
perfection in small farms, bringing into cultivation 
every inch of available space, and producing every 
variety of crops instead of one, so that, in case of 
over-production of certain cereals, they have others 
in reserve, and are not dependent upon one alone. 
By this system of farming, with an inferior climate 
and inferior resources, they are enabled to support 
a population thirty-seven times greater than that of 
California. 

The principal crops raised are tea and silk. I 
noticed a tea plantation on the hilliest and rockiest 
ground in the neighborhood. The tea bushes 
resemble grape-vines 'of the same age, and are 
planted similarly to our vineyards. In every direc- 
tion, all over Japan, we find these little fields, in 
which men and women can be seen in groups tilling 
and toiling from morning until night, except on 



F 1 



i 












From Photograph of Mr. Johnson in Japanese Costume, 
with fusiyama for a background. 

(351) 



352 Around the World. 

every tenth day, which is set apart for rest. Japan, 
though favored by nature in many ways, is not a 
fruit country, and what little is raised there is of 
an inferior quality. Nor is it a good sheep country, 
there being a species of herb growing in the vege- 
tation which keeps those animals from thriving. 

After spending some time in seeing the sights 
and investigating the resources of the country in and 
around the cities of Osaka and Kioto, I returned 
to Kobe, and embarked on the coast mail steamer 
for Yokohama, a distance of 350 miles, or a thirty- 
five hours voyage. Shortly after leaving Kobe, 
we quickly sailed out of the Inland Sea into the 
open Pacific Ocean, keeping near the shores and 
stopping at all the ports. From the immense car- 
goes coming into and going from them, and the 
numerous steamer lines plying along this coast, a 
stranger would naturally judge the resources and 
commerce of Japan to be something enormous. 

As we sailed along the coast, the main point of 
interest in view was the Fusiyama Mountain, said 
to be the most graceful mountain in form of any in 
the world. Its towering peak, covered with per- 
petual snow, and 14,000 feet above the level of 
the sea, can be seen above every other object for 
100 miles out in the Pacific Ocean. This volcanic 
mountain has a crater two miles in circumference ; 
but there has been no eruption for several years. 
It is a famous resort for tourists and visitors, and 



Fusiyama. 353 

the natives formerly made pilgrimages here for the 
purpose of idolatrous worship ; but the custom 
which necessitated such a hazardous climb is nearly 
abandoned, their worship being confined to the 
temples nearer home, where perhaps the same 
reward is meted out to them. 



23 



354 Around the World. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

THE INTERIOR OF JAPAN. 

As we steamed into Yokohama, we found that 
spacious harbor full of anchored vessels. Our 
steamer was soon surrounded by row craft, from a 
canoe to a sampan, all being propelled scull fashion 
and with great speed by the noisy boatmen and 
boatwomen. On this occasion I was transported 
in the Club Hotel's steam tender, and landed with 
comfort, thereby avoiding the tedious bargaining 
about tariff, as well as the danger of being drenched 
and half drowned by the natives before reaching 
shore, which experience I had met with in other 
Asiatic ports. 

The word Yokohama signifies " opposite shore," 
this city lying opposite to Kanagawa. The latter 
place was for many years the residence of foreign- 
ers ; but of late years they have been permitted to 
remove their business quarters to Yokohama, 
which is the leading treaty seaport in Japan. It is 
a city of 50,000 inhabitants, including 4,000 foreign- 
ers, is built principally on level ground, and is sur- 
rounded on three sides by ranges of hills. Several 
canals are cut through the city, and these are crossed 
by bridges in every direction. 



Yokohama. 355 

The European settlement extends along the 
water front a long distance, and is called the Bund. 
It contains some large commercial houses, steam- 
ship offices, numerous banks, three churches and a 
few good hotels. Among the latter the leading 
ones are the Windsor, the Grand, and Club Hotels, 
at all of which the rate is three dollars per day. 
This locality was formerly a swamp ; but, since its 
cession to Europeans, it has been reclaimed, and it 
is now the most beautiful part of the city. 

The more prominent among the European resi- 
dents, the consuls, merchants and missionaries, have 
their private residences on a lofty eminence called 
the " Bluff," from which I had a fine view of the 
city and bay. This elevation reminded me of Nob 
Hill, in San Francisco, only it is of much less im- 
portance. I made many acquaintances living here, 
and used to make frequent visits to the " Bluff," 
and, in the society of my newly found friend, Mr. 
Jensen, and his estimable wife, passed many pleas- 
ant hours. 

The principal business portion of the city is con- 
fined to Main street, which, from its width and the 
architecture of its buildings, bears evidence of 
European civilization and enterprise. Porcelain 
factories, silk establishments and tea warehouses, 
where by a certain process the moisture is extracted 
from the tea, and the leaves are cured and prepared 
for the foreign market, are among the enterprises 



356 Around the World. 

started by foreign capitalists. A stroll through the 
principal tea establishments, where hundreds of 
native women are engaged in taking the tea through 
these various processes until the finishing touch 
was reached, was very interesting and instructive. 

The various nations of the world are well repre- 
sented at this port, and the flags flying from the 
different consulates designate the different coun- 
tries represented. The American Consul, Mr. 
Green, was the only one I had occasion to call on, 
as it was necessary to procure a passport from him, 
which document I afterward found to be as useful 
as coin, in my travels from Yokohama through the 
interior, whenever I crossed the treaty limits. 

The native portion of Yokohama is full of 
strange and interesting sights, and the principal 
streets are illuminated with Japanese paper lan- 
terns. One noticeable feature on the streets is the 
low-story booths, tea houses and the public bathing 
houses. The principal streets in this quarter are 
Bentondora and Hanchdora, the shops along which 
are crowded with native wares and curios of every 
description, either in porcelain, silk or lacquer cabi- 
nets, any of which can be purchased at astonish- 
ingly low prices. 

It is here where tourists generally make large 
purchases of presents, souvenirs and curios for 
their friends at home. The duty I paid at San 
Francisco on my collections amounted to more 



Public Bathing. 357 

than the original purchase price in Yokohama. 
Some of the merchants display their goods and 
wares on the open streets ; and, in the little booths 
fronting the streets, whole families can be seen 
sitting in groups, flat on the floor, around a brazier 
of hot coals, smoking their pipes. There are 
numerous theatres where the same silly perform- 
ance heretofore described can be witnessed for two 
cents. The tea houses and dance houses are of 
the same character as I found in other Japanese 
cities, and a stranger has no desire to visit one a 
second time. 

The most singular custom which attracts the 
attention of the visitor is the manner in which 
public bathing is conducted. The public bathing 
houses are free for inspection from the sidewalks, 
and you can sometimes see thirty or forty women 
bathing at the same time, and oftentimes as many 
as 150 may be seen bathing in the same water. 
On disrobing, they plunge into a large wooden 
vat, where the process of scrubbing and washing is 
kept up for nearly an hour, and they are constantly 
going and coming, dressing and undressing. These 
bathing establishments, being public institutions, 
sanctioned by the government, any passer-by has a 
right to look in and witness the performance ; and, 
this being an old custom among the people, these 
women are perfectly indifferent whether Europeans 
or natives watch their plunging and splashing. At 




(358) 



Man-Power versus Horse-Power. 359 

the entrance is a gate-keeper, who allows none but 
females of respectability to enter. Up to within 
the last few years it was the custom for males and 
females to bathe together ; but now they have a 
railing which separates the sexes. Bathing is 
indulged in daily by the Japanese, and, if cleanli- 
ness is akin to godliness, surely the Japanese can 
claim the kinship. In this and in many other 
customs the Japanese are behind the civilization of 
the age. 

The common mode of travel in Japan is by 
means of the two-wheeled jinrikishia, shaped some- 
thing like a small gig, and generally drawn by a 
single coolie, except for rapid traveling, when two 
are employed. It is quite a comfortable and con- 
venient means of travel, enabling a sight-seer to 
ride over the streets of a city and its surroundings 
almost as rapidly as he could with a team of horses. 
A large number of these coolies have picked up 
sufficient English to enable them to explain the 
various objects of interest as they travel along, 
and in this manner the tourist is saved the expense 
of employing an interpreter. 

From Yokohama and Tokio, I made many 
excursions to the interior in this kind of a rig, the 
motive power being two coolies, who would haul me 
along at the rate of fifty miles a day, for which 
valuable service they charged me sixty cents a day, 
furnishing their own food, which consisted chiefly 



360 Around the 'World. 

of rice, tea and brandy, or at least a substitute for 
the latter, — a kind of innocent liquor made of rice. 
One would think that very little could be made at 
such low wages ; but everything- in Japan is corre- 
spondingly low. I have seen these coolies, when 
on the way, stop for refreshments and rest, as they 
usually did at stations every fifteen miles, and pay 
one cent for a glass of brandy, one cent for a cup 
of tea, and two cents for a mess of rice, while raw 
fish and other luxuries would be correspondingly 
low. 

Another mode of travel, in which I also had 
some experience, was by means of the sedan chair, 
or, as it is sometimes called, the traveling chair, in 
which I was carried by two half-naked coolies, with 
a bamboo pole resting upon their shoulders. This 
mode of travel, used in the hilly districts, and over 
rough and broken sections, is fast going out of use ; 
but, in the narrow streets in China, it is the princi- 
pal means of conveyance. 

Wagons of any kind are almost unknown in* 
Japan, the only vehicle used as a substitute being 
the large two-wheeled carts which are pushed and 
pulled by a number of coolies, according to the 
size of the load. I have often seen a half-dozen of 
these coolies moving one of these carts loaded with 
produce, to market, a distance of twenty miles. 
Everything seemed to be operated with man power, 
and this power was certainly utilized for everything 



Cultivation and Productions. 361 

for which it could be made available, which is but 
natural among a poverty-stricken people, and in an 
over-populated country. 

Horses are few in number and of an inferior 
breed. Chubby ponies, smaller than the California 
mustang, are used principally in the mountainous 
districts as pack animals. I have seen a long string 
of these animals with lumber and poles thirty feet 
long packed lengthwise on a saddle frame as long 
as their backs. The only advantage I could see to 
the horse by this arrangement of the load was that 
he was enabled to walk in the shade of his burden, 
which projected twelve feet beyond his head and 
tail. 

From Yokohama to Tokio was a pleasant rail- 
way ride of eighteen miles, the Pacific Ocean being 
in full view nearly the whole distance. The route 
ran through a level and prosperous country, every 
acre of which was cultivated ; and it seemed like 
riding through continuous gardens of rice, tea and 
vegetables. 

Wheat is also raised, though on a very small 
scale, and generally as a second crop after the rice 
and other crops have been removed. It is planted 
in rows, and the crops raised amount to compara- 
tively nothing for such a large population. What 
small quantity is raised is converted into a coarse 
meal, and made into sweet-cakes, which are served 
as refreshments. The European population of the 



362 Around the World. 

empire import their flour from India and San 
Francisco. 

Tokio, the seat of government, or the new and 
eastern capital, covers a greater area than New 
York City. It has a population of nearly one 
million, is intersected by numerous canals and 
bridges, and contains a greater variety of sights of 
interest than any other city in the Orient. Here I 
also found many temples, shrines and every idol- 
atrous object appertaining to heathendom. The 
most imposing sights were the Shibba Temples and 
surroundings, from which a beautiful view can be 
obtained of the city and surrounding country in 
different directions, a distance of eight or ten 
miles. 

The Osaka temples, in the Osaka district, were 
also objects of special interest. The Temple of 
Kin Kin Zan is an enormous structure, with a costly 
ornamented exterior, and with its altar ornamented 
with bronze and gold. The walks to this temple 
were thronged with worshipers who were hastening 
to perform religious rites to their imaginary gods. 
To hear and see how devotional they were while 
pleading to these glaring images for mercy was a 
touching scene. They bow and clap their hands 
repeatedly, calling to their idols in most imploring 
tones, and cluster around these inanimate figures 
with offerings. In the performance of these super- 
stitious rites, they often work themselves into a 



Tokio — The Mikado s Palace. 363 

state of unconsciousness, like the negroes of the 
South in their religious fervor. 

As usual, a priest with shaven head was on hand 
to take the small admission fee, and do the honors 
to visitors. Inside of the temple grounds, there 
were tea booths, bazaars, art galleries, theatrical 
performances and other attractions. This temple 
and its surroundings, so closely mixed up with 
idolatries, business life and pleasure resorts, makes 
the Osaka district one of the most important and 
curious places to visit in the city. Near this temple 
stands the statue of the Goddess Emma, encircled 
by a cluster of children. 

I also visited while here the Mikado's Palace, 
which was in course of construction in place of the 
one burned down a few years ago. It will be a 
magnificent building when finished. The Citadel, 
the Castle and fortifications were also inspected by 
me with much interest. The Imperial buildings 
correspond with the architecture of other important 
buildings throughout the city, and are all built low, 
in all probability on account of the frequency of 
earthquakes. Tokio and its environs contain many 
dilapidated temples, the wreck and ruin of which 
were caused by earthquakes, fire, war and other 
destructive agencies. 

While here I visited Veno, three miles from the 
centre of the city, where, among many other objects 
of interest, can be seen the main museum, which I 



364 Around the World, 

found filled with all kinds of ancient wares, imple- 
ments, tools, coins, swords, etc., revealing to a cer- 
tain extent the character and customs of the early 
inhabitants of the island. Every kind of wild ani- 
mal peculiar to the country was well represented in 
the collection of skins deposited here. In point of 
interest and display, I found the museum and art 
gallery a fair sample of many I saw in Europe. 

In Veno I found many elegant gardens and 
ornamental residences belonging to the more opu- 
lent citizens of Tokio. Here also are many 
imposing tombs of the Shoguns, the former rulers 
of Japan, among them being one who concluded a 
treaty with the United States a few years ago. I 
regret that space will not permit a more complete 
and interesting description of all of these wonder- 
ful sights ; but I must journey on. 

Leaving Tokio, I visited Nikko, situated seventy- 
five miles in the interior, and amidst the grandest 
mountain scenery in the empire. This journey 
included a ride by rail to Utsonomaya, fifty miles 
from Tokio, and through a moist, level country, 
planted largely in tropical fruits. 

At Utsonomaya myself and guide put up at the 
Yama Hotel, the most important in the town, 
where I was served, in pure native style, with all 
the luxuries of the land, and I might add that the 
enjoyment afforded by the native customs was more 
palatable than the articles on the bill of fare. I 



Sumptuous Supper. 365 

have already mentioned the remarkable politeness 
of the Japanese, and, as usual, I was entertained 
with it here. On entering the hotel, I was met at 
the door by the host, hostess and a servant, each of 
whom made salutations by bowing three times, at 
the last bow falling down on their knees, and 
almost touching the floor with their heads. 

According to custom, my shoes were removed, 
and I was politely invited up-stairs in my stocking 
feet into the parlor, which I found to be kept as 
neat as a pin, but as bare of furniture as a barn, 
except a straw carpet laid on a springy bamboo 
floor. Here I was invited to be seated on a mat 
placed in the middle of the floor, and a little 
brazier of hot coals was left near my feet, while the 
servant girl brought me a cup of tea, without a 
saucer, with some native refreshments. The only 
objection I had to the tea was that the cup was too 
small, containing not more than four thimblefuls 
of the beverage. 

Supper was served in half an hour. Half-boiled 
rice was brought in a wooden tub the size of a peck 
measure, and the other dainty dishes were raw fish, 
native brandy warmed, shark's fins, and a mixture 
of vegetables, soy and sea weed. Two chop-sticks 
were furnished me to gather in the food with, and 
within two feet of this sumptuous repast were two 
blushing maidens watching and attending to my 
wants. 



366 Around the World. 

One of these, kneeling on the floor, held in her 
hands a wooden tray, from which I received my 
rice in a tiny cup, which, as soon as emptied, was 
to be replaced on the tray to be refilled by her 
from the smoking - rice tub. This was to be filled 
and refilled as often as I should desire it. This 
maiden served the meal, while the other stood 
upright in her white stocking feet, ready for extra 
service, such as keeping the paper-light or fire-box 
in proper order; or, if anything else should be 
wanted from the kitchen, such as raw fish or 
warm brandy, for instance, she would glide after it 
as noiselessly as a ghost. They watched me 
amusedly in my awkward efforts to eat with the 
chop-sticks, with which, though difficult to handle, 
I managed to catch all the rice my appetite 
required. I did not indulge in the rest of the 
luxuries (?), on account of the offensive flavor, which 
I found to be most disagreeable to both taste and 
smell. 

Some little time after this dining and wining had 
concluded, and when the hour was growing late, I 
was invited to take a bath before retiring for the 
night, which I was obliged to consent to, owing to 
the strict custom of the country to indulge in the 
luxury of the bath every night. If I had deviated 
from this custom or declined, it would have lowered 
me in the estimation of the household, and doomed 
me as an unclean person, much lower in their esti- 




(367) 



368 Arotmd the World. 

mation than one who should decline to wash his 
face and hands before going to breakfast, would be 
with us. 

I was escorted to the bath-room by the two 
female servants and my guide. The room con- 
tained a large oblong vat, with warm and cold 
water, and I was informed by my guide that it was 
the custom for the two maid servants to wait on 
me while at the bath ; that they were there for the 
purpose of rubbing and scrubbing me with brushes 
and towels until I was perfectly clean. 

Truly, I had been convinced and struck with the 
politeness, kindness and hospitality of the Japanese; 
but I now began to think they were going to kill 
me with these qualities, and, for the first time in 
my life, I thought I had too much of a good thing. 
As a few hours before" they had tried to overfeed 
me, now they were going to try to overwash me ; 
so I declined their service, and told them that, 
according to our American custom, we rubbed and 
scrubbed ourselves while bathing, and that I must 
stick to that rule or not bathe at all, upon which 
they gracefully withdrew, and I was left alone to 
take the plunge. The only objection I found to 
the bath was that everybody bathed in the same 
vat and in the same water, the water being changed 
only once a day. 

However, I came from that bath a wiser and a 
cleaner man, and, returning to my bare parlor, 



Sleeping in Native Style. 369 

entered into speculations as to how I should sleep 
during the night, as neither bedstead nor bedr 
clothes were in sight. But a few moments elapsed, 
however, before two heavy quilts were brought in, 
one of which was spread in the centre of the floor 
to lie on, and the other had longf sleeves in it- 
like an overcoat. After the two maids had assisted 
me in getting my arms into its sleeves, and a hollow 
wooden block to fit my neck for a pillow had been 
furnished, I was invited to lie down, which I did. 
Near my wooden pillow was placed a brazier of hot 
coals to keep me warm during the night, and a kind 
of grease-light, in a paper lantern, was left on the 
floor near my' feet, and kept burning all night. 

My guide was put to bed in the same manner at 
the door, as a body guard. He was a guardian to 
be most feared, as he had the best opportunity of 
robbing me. In the slide door stood the two little 
black-eyed beauties watching my awkward move- 
ments as long as my eyes remained open. They 
could not have been married, for their teeth were 
not blackened. I was to all appearances more of a 
curiosity to them than their strange customs were 
to me. I was treated to a shock of earthquake 
during the night, a frequent visitor in Japan ; but 
it must have been a light one, as neither the bam- 
boo walls nor the paper windows were affected by 
it. Morning came, and, finding myself not robbed, 
I at once placed more confidence in my guide ; and 
24 



370 Around the World. 

here let me say, that I was never robbed out of a 
farthing, either in Japan or on any other part of 
my journey, except in the extra tips I had to pay 
waiters and guides, which many tourists style 
"highway robbery." 

For this interesting night's accommodation the 
rates were as reasonable as could be expected, tak- 
ing into consideration the various extras and atten- 
tion furnished. Forty cents paid my entire bill, 
including the bath, hot coals, light, etc. I was 
charged half-price for my guide, as he was con- 
sidered of much less dignity, and had to be con- 
tented with common fare and attention. I almost 
forgot to mention that my passport was examined 
here by an officer, and, on my identification as an 
American citizen, all was well, as the citizens of 
this country are held in higher regard than those 
of any other. This is a fair description of the 
customs, fare, etc., of the interior hotels in Japan, 
and every foreign tourist in search of pleasure 
will be likely to share the same comforts, and be 
served with like fare and attentions, as I have here 
related. 

There are no European settlers in the rural dis- 
tricts of Japan, and no hotels kept on the European 
plan. The Japanese in these districts do not want 
to sell or rent land to foreigners, and do not allow 
them to become interested in any public enterprise, 
or get a foothold or controlling interest in anything; 



Utsonomaya to Nikko. 371 

and these restrictions are especially enforced against 
the British. The Japanese, being a wide-awake 
nation, want to manage their own affairs, and are 
aiming to place themselves on a level with other 
civilized countries. 

At Utsonomaya I hired a pair of coolies and two 
two- wheeled jinrikishias to convey myself and guide 
to Nikko, a distance of twenty-two miles. The 
road was a steady incline until we reached Nikko, 
at an altitude of 2,000 feet above the level of the 
sea. The route was very attractive, both sides of 
the road being regularly lir.ed with shade trees, 
which, on account of their age, were of enormous 
size. They must have been planted by former 
rulers over 1,000 years ago, and the shade from 
them proved a boon to the weary traveler. 

We soon arrived at Nikko, the headquarters of 
the Buddha and Shinto sects. This place contains 
many imposing temples, and some of the grandest 
mountain scenery in Japan, including cascades, 
rushing waterfalls, lofty mountains, rugged cliffs 
and crags, and arches of the most curious formation. 

I found here a group of forty-seven temples of 
most stately structure, and of grand architectural 
design, carved and engraved on the exterior, and 
with ornamental altars in gold and bronze in the 
interior. Thousands of tons of bronze must have 
been used in their construction, and, since leaving 
Rome, I had seen no such imposing splendors to 




(372) 



Nikko, the Rome of Japan. 373 

excite my admiration as I found here in Nikko, 
which has been truly styled the Rome of Japan. 

This is the burial place of Toku Iyyani, the 
founder of the Shogun dynasty, and one of the most 
celebrated warriors in Japanese history. The sacred 
ground containing the ashes of this distinguished 
ruler is on a sloping hill, to which I gained access 
by following my guide up a long flight of granite 
steps, through temples filled with glittering objects 
in gold and bronze, and guarded by shaven-headed 
priests. My guide was kept busy explaining to me 
the wonderful sights met with on this journey, and 
my memorandum book seemed fast filling with 
descriptions of temples, shrines, tombs and statues, 
much of which, I regret, for want of space must be 
omitted from this narrative. 

After a few days of sight-seeing in this wonder- 
ful city, I returned to Yokohama via Tokio. My 
next expedition was to Enoshima, a little island, 
twenty-two miles from Yokohama, a lovely resort, 
and one of the first places visited by tourists after 
they have done the sights of Yokohama. One of 
the curious features of this island is a natural cave, 
400 feet long, which penetrates the bluff near the 
level of the sea. This cave contains many sacred 
relics, idols guarded by priests, who charge a small 
fee of admission to view the secrets contained 
within its long and crooked recesses. 

This island is full of native shops, well stocked 



374 



Around the World. 



with shells, beads and other curios gathered from 
the sea, and many of the natives make a living in 
this way, depending on visitors for customers. 
From this island I obtained a beautiful view in 
every direction. The ocean seemed alive with its 




Bronze Image of Buddha. 



clusters of fishing boats, and other drifting objects, 
which added to the attractiveness of the scene. 

Returning to Yokohama, which had now become 
the central point of all of my movements, I 
started with my jinrikishia and coolie team for 
Kamakura, where Diebutsi, the great bronze image 



Photograph Taken on Image of 'Buddha. 375 

or statue of Buddha, is located. It was cast over 
600 years ago ; is fifty-three feet high, and ninety- 
six feet in circumference, and the face is eight and 
a half feet long and sixteen feet wide. I found 
the inside hollow, and the space within used as a 
temple. This image is in every respect a most 
wonderful piece of workmanship. According to 
the usual custom among tourists, I had my photo- 
graph taken, with the image as a background, being 
placed in a sitting posture on one of its thumbs, 
from which my figure appears insignificant when 
compared with the enormous proportions of the 
statue. 

Kamakura is eighteen miles from Yokohama. 
It was the capital of Japan from 1190, during 'a 
period of about 400 years ; and the military head- 
quarters of Toriton, a famous Prince in Japanese 
history, were established here. Kamakura con- 
tains several grand temples, the most imposing of 
which is the Tsurugoaka Hill, a temple of Shinto 
origin, which I entered by climbing a flight of 
fifty-eight steps. Here I was shown many old 
relics, swords, curious designs of bows and arrows, 
pieces of blades, and many other weapons used by 
a warlike people. These silent monitors were 
representatives of stormy and warlike periods in 
the nation's history, and, while preserved as 
objects of curiosity by the natives, they are of 
equal interest to the foreign visitor. 



376 Around the World. 

While here I visited the tomb of Bill Adams, an 
English pilot, and the first white man who died in 
Japan. 

Leaving this tomb with my coolie outfit, I was 
soon hurried into the streets of Yokaski, a favorite 
seaside resort, frequented by many visitors from 
Yokohama. This place, according" to its size, was 
the most stirring place I visited in the empire. 
The government Navy Yard, dry docks and 
Arsenal are located here. I saw many new ships 
in course of construction, and many old ones 
launched for repairs. Some of the largest machine 
shops in the East are located here, and 2,000 
mechanics of various grades are employed, at 
wages ranging from twenty to fifty cents a day, 
without board. A visit to this busy city can not 
fail to impress the visitor with the enterprise of the 
Japanese. 

I returned to Yokohama, twelve miles away, on 
a little steamer, which made four regular trips a 
day. The picturesque scenery along the coast 
served to remind me that Nature had bestowed her 
favors upon Japan with a lavish hand. What 
food for an artist these lovely islands, picturesque 
shores and inland attractions would afford ! The 
next place visited was the favorite health and 
pleasure resort called Miya-Notta, which contains 
several mineral springs of a sulphurous nature, 
visited by many natives and tourists, who drink 



Christianizing" the Heathen. 377 

and bathe in the waters. It is situated in the 
midst of beautiful mountain scenery, to reach 
which I traveled via Odawara in the usual tandem 
style. 

From Odawara the road was over a rough and 
broken trail, and I was obliged to change my mode 
of conveyance to the sedan chair, which has been 
described before. After traveling extensively over 
China and Japan, I had become accustomed to the 
different modes of travel, and was now equal to 
any emergency. 

The district traversed by us appeared to be 
occupied chiefly by peasants, who lived in dilapi- 
dated huts, situated in the centre of their patch- 
fields, which were cultivated chiefly to rice, vege- 
tables and tea. Their lot seemed to be to live 
poor and die poor, Japan, though ground down 
with taxation and over-population, has less paupers, 
I am informed, than any other nation, according to 
population. 

Before leaving Yokohama to resume my travels, 
I visited several Japanese Christian churches and 
schools. Many of these heathen have been con- 
verted to Christianity through these influences. 
English is taught in these schools, and the teach- 
ers and missionaries of both English and American 
nationalities work harmoniously together in 
christianizing and educating the people. I con- 
versed with Mr. Bennett and Mr. Jewel, mission- 



378 Around the World. 

aries, and with Mr. Baker, a teacher, who informed 
me that much good had been accomplished through 
their labor and influence. These schools were 
well attended by many nations, who rapidly learn 
the English language. Several young Japs acted 
as assistant teachers. I noticed that many Euro- 
peans had mastered the Japanese language and 
spoke it with perfect ease. Notwithstanding that 
their language has forty-seven letters, it is an easy 
language to learn. 

I found the churches filled with peopie of every 
age, who seemed very devoted to their new-found 
religion. To see these natives in a Christian 
church, on their knees, in white stocking feet, and 
especially the chubby children, was a novel scene. 
You can always correctly estimate the number of 
people in a Japanese church before you enter, by 
counting the number of shoes left outside the 
door. 

The author sent the following communication 
from Yokohama to the Modesto, Cal., Herald : 

LETTER FROM JAPAN. 

Yokohama, Japan, Jan. 28, 1SS6. 
Editor Herald : — Since my last letter, sent you from Canton, China, 
I am now 1,800 miles nearer home. For several weeks I have traveled 
extensively in Japan, and I find it the most beautiful and interesting of any 
country I have seen during my whole journey around the world. I find the 
people here nearer up to the scale of our advanced civilization than in China 
or India, and, as a rule, they are gentlemanly and polite. If a stranger 
enters a Japanese house, he is cordially met in the doorway, and salutations 
are made by bowing the head twice near to the floor. In the seaboard cities 



Letter from Japan. 379 

they are largely imitating the Europeans, both in customs and costumes; but 
in the interior I had to use chop-sticks, the same as in China. 

I have visited all the leading places of interest in Japan,— temples, tea 
plantations, navy yards, arsenals, tea-drying establishments, silk works, por- 
celain factories, bazaars, public bathing houses, tea houses, theatres, castles, 
rice fields and the depositories of relics all over the country. The grandest 
place for sight-seeing is Nikko. It is called the Rome of Japan. This 
point I have just been visiting. It is ninety-five miles from Yokohama, 
located in the midst of a group of picturesque mountains. Here are forty- 
seven stately temples, many of which are ornamented with costly, glittering 
bronze. Nikko is the ancient headquarters for the two prevailing religions 
of the country, the Shinto and the Buddhist. The latter is the principal 
one and the most pious. Among other attractions are waterfalls that con- 
tinually flow near the temples from the snow-clad mountains. Here are 
large pagodas, images of many descriptions, representing the Japan gods, 
and other curious relics and scenes to attract the eyes of a tourist and arrest 
his attention. 

The interesting places which I have visited, aside from those mentioned, 
are Tokio, the capital ; Osaka ; Kioto, the old capital ; Nagasaki, Kobe, 
Kamakura, and Yokaski, the government Navy Yard of Japan. Near by 
here I saw the grave of Bill Adams, an English pilot, and the first white 
man ever buried in Japan. Near by is also the great image of Dibutsi, the 
Japanese god, where I had my photograph taken on the thumb of the 
image. The Inland Sea of Japan, over which I traveled for 240 miles, is the 
most beautiful sheet of water I have sailed on in my whole journey. This 
coast has the most beautiful and picturesque landscape scenery from the 
shores to the hill-tops, which surround it in every direction, and the water of 
the sea is dotted with fishing boats, which add beauty to the sight all along 
the coast. The ride I had over this silvery sea, with its thousands of attrac- 
tions, will never grow dim in my memory. 

In a few days I will embark for the Sandwich Islands, the last country I 
will have to visit before I have accomplished my tour around the world. 

Yours truly, Osmun Johnson. 

In a week's travel through Japan, I had witnessed 
many wonderful sights, and visited many famous 
places; I had studied her resources and the customs 
and industries of her people ; I had seen more of 
her temples, shrines and idols than I ever care to 



380 Around the World. 

see again ; I had viewed her many attractions with 
interest and pleasure, had experienced the kindness 
and courtly demeanor of her people, and been 
treated with the highest consideration and respect, 
according to their custom. An unknown white man 
traveling through her interior for hundreds of miles, 
and left to the mercy of the natives, instead of 
being robbed and plundered, I had been treated as 
a nobleman of high birth ; my passport as a citizen 
of the United States entitled me to the highest 
consideration; and, in conclusion, I will say of japan, 
that, with her mountains of picturesque scenery 
and inexhaustible mineral wealth, with her exten- 
sive timber regions, with her valleys and hills culti- 
vated to all varieties of tropical products, with her 
beautiful seas and lakes and bays alive with fish of 
all kinds, with her extensive seaboard and secure 
harbors, giving her greater commercial advantages 
than any other country in Asia, — with all these 
natural advantages, and with a healthy, happy, in- 
dustrious and ambitious people, she can not fail to 
soon take her place among the civilized nations of 
the world. 

I found her people to be as honest as the day is 
long ; courteous, kind, polite and good humored ; 
fond of joking, great imitators, and anxious to 
acquire knowledge. I enjoyed my visit among 
them more than that among any other people on 
my tour around the world, and it is with many 



Correspondence. 381 

regrets that I am now obliged to bid good-bye to 
the Mikado's empire. 

The following was written at Yokohama by 
Mr. Johnson to the Stockton, Cal., Independent : 

LETTER FROM JAPAN. 

Yokohama, Japan, Jan. 18, 1886. 

P'or several weeks past I have traveled extensively in the interior and on 
the sea-coast of Japan. Of all the countries visited in my journey around 
the world, I have found Japan the most interesting. I have just visited 
Nikko, about eighty miles north of Tokio, the headquarters of the Buddhist 
and Shinto sects, the two prevailing religions of Japan. The temples of 
Nikko have a group of picturesque mountains .for background. There are 
here, in all, forty-seven stately and costly temples, ornamented with bronze 
and engraved images, and objects representing the Japanese gods. Thou- 
sands of tons of bronze must have been used in constructing these imposing 
temples and pagodas. Among other grand attractions in and around Nikko 
are seven waterfalls in streams that rush from the snow-clad mountains a 
short distance from the city. In other places in Japan, like Tokio, Osaka 
and Kioto, I have seen grand temples, pagodas and castles and interesting 
curiosities in architecture; but since I left Rome I have never seen so many 
beautiful relics, temples and tombs as at Nikko. This place is, in fact, 
called the Rome of Japan. 

Nikko is ninety- five miles from Yokohama, and on the trip from the last- 
named place I first took the cars to Utsonomaya, a distance of seventy-seven 
miles. There I hired two coolies with " jinrikishias " for myself and guide, 
to convey us the remaining distance to Nikko. That was a curious turn-out 
for a Stanislaus farmer to ride in, — a little two-wheeled concern with two 
half-naked coolies for a tandem team. I have, however, become an expert 
in the " jinrikishia" and traveling chair in Japan and China. I have sent you 
by this mail a photograph, taken for me while sitting in the queer two-wheeled 
vehicle behind my coolie team. 

On this tour I was supplied with a passport from the American consul, 
and I found the document as useful as coin. Whenever I entered a Jap- 
anese hotel at night, I was met at the door by the host or hostess, who made 
salutations by bowing almost to the floor. After my shoes were taken off I 
was invited up-stairs, and shown to the best room, which was bare of furni- 
ture. I was politely invited to squat on the floor on a white mat, and then a 
small vessel of hot coals was left at my feet. Next came a servant giilwith 



382 Around the World. 

a cup of tea served on a small red wooden tray. The fault found with the 
cup of tea was that it was too small, containing not over four thimblefuls. 
Half an hour later supper was served, consisting' of half-boiled rice in a 
vessel the size of a peck measure, vegetables, warm Japanese brandy and 
raw fish, with two chop-sticks to gather in the rice. Two blushing maidens 
stood opposite the rice dish, and they amused themselves watching my poor 
headway with chop-sticks. Fortunately, I had ample time to catch all the 
rice that my appetite called for, and I have now learned to be quite handy 
with the sticks. The smell of the vegetables, raw fish and brandy, was 
enough for me, and satisfied my appetite without tasting these dainty Japan- 
ese dishes. At bed-time two quilts were placed on the Moor, one of them 
having long sleeves to put one's arms into before lying down flat on the mat. 
For a pillow a wooden block was furnished, hollowed out to fit the neck, and 
a vessel with hot coals was left near my head to keep me warm through the 
night. In this position I was ready to sleep. 

The whole country is cultivated into gardens instead of farms, and I can 
now understand how 37,000,000 of people live in a country smaller than 
England. The Inland Sea of Japan for 240 miles is the most beautiful 
sheet of water I have seen in my whole tour. 

I have now traveled about 45,000 miles, through America, Europe, 
Africa, Australia, India, China, Japan, and many islands, in the journey; and 
in a few days I will start for the Sandwich Islands, the last country to visit 

before I have made my trip around the world. 

Osmun Johnson. 



Eastward Across the Pacific. 383 



CHAPTER XX. 

HOMEWARD BOUND ACROSS THE PACIFIC, VIA 
HONOLULU, TO SAN FRANCISCO. 

On the 9th day of March I embarked on the 
four-masted steamer City of Peking for San Fran- 
cisco, via Honolulu. This vessel is the largest 
American vessel afloat, and is in reality a floating 
palace upon the Pacific Ocean. She has a carrying 
capacity of 5,500 tons. Her entire length is 425 
feet, and her engines are of 800 horse-power, con- 
suming forty-five tons of coal every twenty-four 
hours. It took a small army of servants to keep 
her clean, and in every department they could be 
seen scrubbing day and night. The cabin fare was 
good, though it was not the custom to serve as 
many lunches as they do on the English steamers, 
on which eating and s'eeping seem to be the main 
occupation through the day and night. 

I found this Trans-Pacific steamer as comfortable 
and well kept as she looked, and considered myself 
very fortunate in being able to secure such accom- 
modations ; for, at the outset, my aim had been to 
include in my tour of the world as many countries 
as possible, even though I should be obliged to go 



384 Around the World. 

out of my way, or out of the regular course of 
travel for hundreds of miles or more, and without 
regard to the extra time employed or expense 
incurred. 

I started out to see the world, and I wanted to 
see it. An opportunity now presented itself to visit 
the Sandwich Islands, — an opportunity rarely 
afforded the tourist on leaving Asia. It happened 
in this way : From China to San Francisco, there 
are two regular mail lines, the Occidental and 
Oriental, neither of which touch at Honolulu, as 
the distance would be increased 500 miles ; but on 
this occasion an arrangement had been made by 
Claus Spreckles, the Sandwich Island sugar king, 
with the steamship company, to carry and land 
for him 900 Japanese emigrants, who were under a 
three-years contract with him to work on his sugar 
plantations on the islands. 

I rejoiced at this opportunity of visiting, on my 
homeward journey, another interesting country, 
and hastily took advantage of it. It seemed to me 
that Providence had favored me throughout my 
whole tour, and had allowed me a full share of the 
world's most wonderful sights. I had been per- 
mitted to visit two more countries than the average 
tourist, to wit, Australia and New Zealand, and 
now the Sandwich Islands were to be added to 
the list. 

Having secured passage, and gone aboard, the 



Life on the Peking. 385 

anchor was raised, and we steamed out of the 
beautiful harbor of Yokohama. The snow-clad 
peak, Fusiyama, the last visible object in the 
Mikado's empire, soon faded from our view, and 
we were fairly on our way across the Pacific. 

Besides the 900 emigrants on board, there were 
passengers of every grade and rank, — lords and 
millionaire 5, Oriental diplomates and ministers to 
Washington ; missionaries, worn out, and returning 
home ; students from various parts of Asia going 
to attend institutions of learning in America, — all 
of whom contributed their talents and experience 
toward making the voyage one of interest and 
pleasure. The cargo consisted of tea, porcelain 
and silk. 

The distance from Yokohama to Honolulu is 
3,400 miles. Besides the huge engines of the ves- 
sel, every mast carried sails, contributing, with 
favorable winds, fifty miles a day to her speed, 
which ordinarily averaged from ten to twelve knots 
an hour, according to the favors of the breeze. 
The first half of this voyage was stormy, with pre- 
vailing head winds, and we encountered a gale 
which maintained its fury for twenty-four hours, 
raging as furiously as any typhoon I had experi- 
enced in the China Sea. It is not often that the 
Pacific belies its name ; but on this occasion its 
waves rolled mountains high, often enveloping the 
whole ship from stem to stern, The storm did not 
35 



386 Around the World, 

last long-, but abated with the change of latitude, 
not a great distance from Honolulu. The Pacific 
again became pacific, and the remainder of the 
passage was pleasant and agreeable. The route 
over this portion of the ocean being clear of 
islands and other objects, as well as of fog, there 
is less danger of collision than on the Atlantic 
side, where accidents are of frequent occurrence. 

There was much more life aboard this steamer 
than on any other on which I had sailed, on 
account of the large number and great diversity 
of the passengers. The first three days out, the 
Japanese emigrants were nearly all sea-sick; but, 
after they had recovered from this unpleasantness, 
the scenes and occurrences among them were very 
interesting, especially at meal times, when these 
900 half-naked Orients could be seen rushing and 
scrambling for their places with chop-sticks in 
hand. Instead of "feeding the fishes," as at the 
beginning of the voyage, they were now feeding 
themselves, which change soon began to tell on the 
rice baskets, as they gathered in basket after 
basket with their chop-sticks. 

Between meals they would amuse themselves by 
wrestling, in which exercise they proved themselves 
experts, thoroughly skilled in the art, and displayed 
great activity and strength. One of the novel 
features of their mode of wrestling is that, while 
engaged in the exercise, they are never in an up- 



Honolulu. 387 

right position, but squat down on their haunches, 
in this manner throwing their bodies forward and 
resting upon their hands and toes when grappling 
with each other. The tussle ends when one has 
forced the other outside the ring made by them at 
the beginning. These happy Japs contributed 
largely to our amusement during these monotonous 
days in mid-ocean. 

On the thirteenth day out from Yokohama, we 
sighted the Sandwich Islands, and on the same day 
cast anchor in Honolulu. This shore presented an 
agreeable change of scene after being at sea nearly 
two weeks, with naught but the wide ocean in view 
and the salt air for a tonic. After the officers of 
the port had boarded our vessel and gone through 
the usual formalities according to law, the passengers 
were put ashore in a steam tender, and the vessel 
remained in port thirty-eight hours to discharge 
her cargo and leave the Japanese emigrants. This 
brief time was occupied to a good advantage in 
taking in the sights of this tropical city and its 
nearest surroundings. 

Honolulu is the capital of the island group, and 
the residence of King Kalakaua, the reigning mon- 
arch. It has a population of about 15,000, many 
of whom are foreigners, consisting of Americans, 
Germans, English and Chinese, and the business is 
almost entirely carried on by foreign houses. It is 
a lovely city, the tropical shade trees and the 



388 Around the World. 

luxuriant foliage in the gardens and climbing about 
the verandas of the houses, adding much to its 
beauty and attractiveness. It is built on a gentle 
incline at the mouth of the Valley of Nuuanu, and 
has for its background a long range of picturesque 
hills, of the most peculiar shape. 

Though favored by nature in many ways, Hono- 
lulu has one of the poorest harbors which I visited. 
This is on account of the long stretch of barren 
coral reefs, which prevent heavily laden vessels from 
entering. They are generally anchored a mile from 
shore, and the cargo and passengers are transported 
in barges and tenders. It is a busy and prosperous 
place, owing its prosperity largely to enterprising 
Americans, and Claus Spreckles, the sugar king, is 
looked upon as a power in the land. 

The briefest description of these islands would 
be to designate them as an interesting chain of 
mountains in the Pacific Ocean. In all there are 
thirteen, eight of which are inhabited, and the 
remainder uninhabited. All are mountainous, and 
chiefly of volcanic formation, occupying an area of 
7,628 square miles. The entire population of the 
group amounts to about 85,000. 

Hawaii, the largest of these islands, has an area 
double that of all the rest combined. It contains 
four volcanic mountains, the most interesting of 
which is Mauna Loa, 13,600 feet in height, with a 
crater 8,000 feet in diameter, and at the present 



The Fate of Captain Cook. 389 

time very active. Lack of time prevented me 
from visiting it. 

These islands were discovered by Captain Cook, 
in 1778, over 100 years ago. He found the 
inhabitants a fierce and warlike people, many of 
them cannibals. He was at first received with a 
friendly spirit, but afterward met his death at the 
hands of a native. Much progress has been made 
by the people since that time through missionaries, 
and their intercourse with other nations ; and they 
have become Christianized and civilized. Just 
newly from Oriental cities and idolatrous scenes 
and customs, as I was, the first sight of Western 
civilization afforded a striking contrast ; the very 
air seemed different, and I breathed freer. 

Lying in the tropics, between 18 deg. 54 min. 
and 22 deg. 2 min. north latitude, and 155 deg. and 
161 deg. west longitude, these islands have a most 
salubrious climate, and the temperature is very 
even the year around. Frost is unknown, and 
tropical fruits of all kinds grow in profusion. 
Many consumptives and invalids from all countries 
visit these islands, and experience great relief. 
Honolulu and Naples have similar climates and 
similar attractions, and my impressions were that 
these two places would be the loveliest winter 
resorts in the world, excepting our own coast 
resorts, such as Monterey, Santa Barbara, San 
Luis Obispo, Los Angeles and San Diego. 



390 Around the World: 

We barely had time to drive to the Sugar Bluff. 
The Pali and sugar plantations are the first places 
generally visited by tourists, and the productions 
of the islands are as sweet as the climate. 

The following is the last letter of this tour, 
written for publication. It was mailed at Honolulu 
to the Modesto Herald. 

LETTER FROM HONOLULU. 

Honolulu, March, 1886. 

Editor Herald : — As I have kept you posted about my movements 
from all the principal points in the European and Oriental world, I will now 
send you my last letter of travel, from the Sandwich Islands, which is the 
last point I will touch in my journey around the world. The Sandwich 
Islands are 3,400 miles from Yokohama, the last point I visited in Asia, and 
from that place we brought a cargo of tea, silk and porcelain ; also 900 Jap- 
anese emigrants, who came under contract to work on the Spreckles sugar 
plantation for the next three years. 

The first half of the trip from Yokohama to Honolulu was a stormy one. 
It is not often the Pacific belies its name, but our four-masted iron steamer 
Peking was partly covered up in the swells of the sea, that were moving like 
rolling mountains ; but as we neared Honolulu and made a change of lati- 
tude and longitude, the storm abated, and the Pacific was again pacific, and 
we enjoyed a pleasant passage with a calm sea. 

Honolulu is a busy and interesting city, made so by American enterprise, 
and the Sandwich Islands is one of the smallest countries I have visited in 
my whole tour ; but it is the sweetest one, as the sugar fields extend in every 
direction. 

I have yet to breathe the air of the salt sea for over 2,200 miles before I 
have accomplished the trip around the world. As I expect to see you in 
Modesto at an early day, I will not trouble any further with a long letter. 

Yours truly, Osmun Johnson. 

After our drive through the country, we returned 
to Honolulu, and re-embarked on the steamer, 
which was now getting ready to sail. We had 



Nearing the California Shore. 391 

2,200 miles more between here and San Francisco, 
and I was becoming anxious to start toward home. 
Just as we were about to leave the harbor, a sad 
accident occurred within one hundred yards of 
where we lay. One of the boilers of the steamer 
Mariposa, belonging to the Spreckles sugar line, 
plying between San Francisco and Australia, 
exploded just as she was steaming out of the 
harbor, causing the death of three of her passen- 
gers, and wounding many more. I was an eye- 
witness to this sad scene, and almost within speak- 
ing distance. This steamer was said to be the 
fastest running - between Australia and San Fran- 
cisco, and over-crowding with passengers and 
freight caused the accident. 

Shortly after this accident, we steamed out, home- 
ward bound ; the panoramic ranges of mountains 
along the coast of the islands, covered with tropical 
foliage, were soon lost to view, and balmy breezes 
and a calm sea exchanged for blustering winds and 
a boisterous ocean. 

We were now speeding away in the channels of 
American commerce, and stately ships of modern 
construction were continually hovering in sight, 
presenting quite a contrast to the clumsy hulks 
left behind in the Oriental seas. This voyage was 
devoid of anything of special interest or worthy 
of mention. On the 7th of March, after a voy- 
age of eight days, we neared the California shore ; 




(392) 



Return Through the Golden Gate. 393 

the seal rocks, the Cliff House and other familiar 
objects came in sight ; and we soon entered the 
Golden Gate, through whose portals I had gone 
out less than a year before in starting on my journey 
around the world. 

The cheerful thoughts which rushed through my 
brain, and the peculiar feelings of gladness and joy 
on this memorable day, can not be described. 
Suffice it to say, that there were thoughts of con- 
gratulation that this perilous circuit of 50,000 miles 
around the earth had been successfully accomplished, 
and that in less than one year's time ; and there 
were also thoughts of gratitude to that kind Provi- 
dence by whose care and favor I had been preserved 
from all danger and harm, and had thus been safely 
brought to my journey's end. 

Within this short space of time the writer had 
been constantly in motion on land and water ; had 
traveled on the most important and longest railways 
in the world, both above ground and underground ; 
had sailed on thirteen of the largest steamers afloat, 
crossed the stormiest oceans and the calmest seas, 
sported on the most attractive lakes, rivers, bays 
and straits ; and had been through the longest tun- 
nels, including that under the River Thames and 
the great St. Gothard : he had traveled by nearly 
every method of locomotion known to man, — in 
Norway using the cariole, in Egypt the camel, 
in India the elephant, in Ceylon the buffalo, in 



304 Around the World. 

Venice the gondola, in Australia the two-wheeled 
hansom, in China the sedan chair, in Japan the 
two-wheeled jinrikishia : he had visited the largest 
cities, seen the greatest of the world's wonders, had 
drank from the cup of Nature, and fed upon the 
beauties of art ; had seen strange people and strange 
customs, heard strange voices and strange sounds, 
and had now returned to his own country and home 
a wiser and a wealthier man, — wiser because of the 
great amount of knowledge and experience obtained, 
and wealthier because wiser. 

If, dear reader, the writer has in these pages been 
able to interest you with a description, brief though 
it may be, of his experiences and observations in 
his journey around the world, he will, he assures 
you, feel duly compensated for the time and expense 
required in the publication of this volume; and, if 
there is therein contained that which may prove of 
service to the future traveler, the writer will heartily 
rejoice in that he has been able to contribute some- 
thing, small though it may be, for the benefit and 
instruction of his fellow-man. 



APPENDIX. 



It is deemed appropriate to quote, in an Appendix to this 
narrative, extracts containing kind remarks and favorable 
mention of the local press, to the editors of which the writer 
has been known for over half a score of years, and whose 
favors he gratefully appreciates and hereby acknowledges. 

There will also be added letters, not elsewhere appearing in 
this book, written by the busy traveler to the home papers 
from various points abroad. 



FROM THE MODESTO, CAL., "HERALD," APRIL, 1886. 

Mr. Osmun Johnson, who has been absent from Stanislaus County on a 
tour through the principal countries on the globe, returned home on Fri- 
day evening. His brief letters in the Herald, from various points on his 
travels, show that he is a man of observation, and that he notes things dif- 
ferently from most travelers. His last letter, written at Honolulu, appears 
in this paper, and jiow we all welcome him safely on American soil. His 
travels have been in all countries, England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Ger- 
many, Switzerland, Spain, Turkey, Russia, Greece, Sweden, Denmark, Nor- 
way, Italy, Egypt, India, Australia, Japan, China, Africa, and the Sand- 
wich Islands. He arrived in San Francisco on Thursday last, and thinks 
California best of all. 



.FROM THE "STANISLAUS NEWS," APRIL 5, 1886. 

Mr. Osmun Johnson, a respected citizen of Stanislaus County, returned 
here last evening from an extended tour around the world, having during the 
time traveled over 50,000 miles, and visited all the different countries and 
the principal cities and places of note in each one. Mr. Johnson brings 
many curiosities with him; and, being a man possessed of excellent memory, 

(895) 



396 Appendix. 

he tells many interesting stories of his travels. Among some of the souvenirs 
that he has in his possession, are the photographs of many of the nobility of 
the different countries, — Gladstone, Prince of Wales and family, the Czar of 
Russia, Garibaldi, the King and Queen of Japan, and various others, —the 
most of whom he had the honor of seeing. He also collected specimens of 
all the foreign coins, and many other little trinkets too numerous to mention. 
One can not spend an hour more pleasantly than by listening to Mr. Johnson 
relate some of the details of his tour. 



FROM THE OAKDALE, CAL., "GRAPHIC," MAY 10, 1887. 

Among the visitors to Oakdale last Saturday was Mr. Osmun Johnson, a 
farmer living some eight miles from Modesto. Within the year Mr. John- 
son has traveled extensively in the United States, in all the countries of 
Europe, in Egypt, India, Australia, China, Japan and the Sandwich Islands. 
He kindly showed a few friends some pictures, coins and other mementoes of 
his journeyings in far countries. Mr. Johnson is writing an account of his 
tour around the world, which he will give to the public by and by. We 
have no doubt it will be original and interesting. Mr. Johnson has a farm 
of some 2,000 acres, which he cultivates mainly in wheat, and has a number 
of blooded horses. He is a practical man. His observations abroad will no 
doubt have a direct bearing upon the every-day life of people, that can be 
understood and appreciated by his neighbors of Stanislaus and San Joaquin 
Counties. 

FROM THE STOCKTON, CAL., " INDEPENDENT," APRIL, 1886. 

Osmun Johnson, of Stanislaus County, who started in July last on a trip 
around the world, was in Stockton a few days ago. His travels have been 
in all countries, — England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland, 
Spain, Turkey, Russia, Greece, Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Italy, Egypt, 
India, Australia, Japan, China, Africa and the Sandwich Islands. 



FROM THE MODESTO, CAL, "HERALD." 

We give, this week, another letter from our European correspondent, 
Osmun Johnson. This time he dates his letter from Rome, and gives a 
lively history of his travels in the German States, Denmark, Sweden, Nor- 
way and Austria. He is now doing Italy, and will sail from thence to Tur- 
key and Egypt, where he will again write us. We return thanks to him for 
a photograph of the Pope, and a little book of photographic scenes of the 



Appendix. 397 

most attractive buildings and places of interest in the " Eternal City." The 
people of Stanislaus will read with interest what their representative farmer 
has to say about the foreign countries over which he travels. 



LETTER FROM JAPAN, PUBLISHED IN THE KILBOURN 
CITY, WIS., " MIRROR-GAZETTE," FEB. 25, 1886. 

The following letter was written to L. F. Anderson, near Kilbourn, by 
Osmun Johnson, now traveling in Japan. Mr. Johnson lived here with his 
father about twenty-six years ago, going to California, where he has accumu- 
lated a fortune in farming. He is now making a tour of the world. Mr. 
Anderson showed us a large photo of Mr. Johnson seated in a Japanese 
vehicle, the motive power being two Japs, illustrating the style in which he 
travels. 

Yokohama, Japan, Jan. 20, 1S86. 

Friend Lafayette: — I am now traveling in Japan, the most interest- 
ing country on the globe. I am 1,800 miles nearer home than when I 
wrote you the last letter from China. In Japan I have been sight-seeing 
extensively from the mountains to the sea. From here I will sail in a few 
days to Honolulu and to the Sandwich Islands, the last country I will 
visit before I have accomplished the tour around the world. I expect to 
anchor in San Francisco the 25th of February, which will make my travels 
about 50,000 miles in all, including America, Europe, Asia and Africa, and 
Australia. And I have found the trip to be interesting as well as long. I 
have seen the largest mountains, the largest rivers and waterfalls, the largest 
oceans and inland seas on the globe, and have been visiting all the ancient 
images representing the heathen gods. I have seen, in India, China and 
Japan, thousands of ancient ruins, relics and religious curiosities. Being a 
stranger in strange lands, T have enjoyed the tour to the greatest satisfac- 
tion among the heathen as well as the Christian nations, and the information 
I have gained in this tour among all the different people on the earth, of their 
manners, customs and costumes, could not be exchanged for land or coin. 
I have just been visiting Nikko, one hundred miles north of Japan, the most 
interesting point in the whole country. There are forty-seven temples, 
stately and costly, ornamented with glittering bronze and brass, and immensely 
large images representing the heathen gods. In China and India I have 
been traveling largely in the sedan chair carried along by two heathens; but 
on this occasion I came in a little two-wheeled concern called " jinrikishia," 
which was drawn by two half-naked natives, bowling me along in 
good style at the rate of six miles an hour. In the night at the hotels there 
are no furniture nor seats; but I had to sit flat on the floor to eat my rice with 



398 Appendix. 

two chop-sticks, and sleep accordingly. Together with this I will send you 
my photograph in the jinrikishia, a fair sample of how I have been traveling 
in Japan and China. When I get to Sandwich Islands, which will be the 
next country I will sail to from Yokohama, on the steamer " City of Peking," 
you may hear from me again. My best respects to all relatives and 
acquaintances. From your wandering friend, 

Osmun Johnson. 



LETTER FROM HAMBURG TO THE MODESTO 
"REPUBLICAN." 

Editor Republican: — Since I landed in Europe I have traveled through 
Ireland, England and on the Continent, about 2,000 miles; including 
France, Bavaria, Austria, Bohemia, Russia, the whole German Empire and 
Switzerland. I will only have time to name a few of the leading points of 
interest. In Ireland I found no snakes, but the Pats appeared to be numer- 
ous. In London, after paying my respects to John Bull, Esq., I rode under 
its five million of inhabitants on the underground railway, including the 
River Thames. I inspected some of the most important public buildings of 
London, among which were the Exhibition of Inventions, the finest in the 
world ; the Queen's Palace, the Tower of London, the statue of the Duke of 
Wellington, St. Paul's Church (one of the largest in the world), the Parlia- 
ment House, Crystal Palace and Mark Lane Grain Exchange. In Paris, I 
visited the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte, Place de la Concorde, the Grand 
Opera House (the largest theatre in the world) and the Louvre. The men 
and women of Paris have the strange custom of sitting at tables placed 
on the sidewalks, and unconcernedly sipping their wine, while thousands 
of people are surging around them on every side. 

The main attraction in Switzerland is the lofty mountains and the huge 
glaciers. Berne is not a, large city; but its ancient buildings and its high 
mountains make the place interesting to tourists. From Switzerland to 
Bavaria was but a step, as these little kingdoms and states are not much 
larger than Stanislaus County. From Bavaria I crossed the Alps into Aus- 
tria. For about 100 miles these great mountain ranges surpass anything I 
ever saw in the way of grand scenery. Vienna is the finest city I have yet 
seen in Europe. It is located on both sides of the Danube, contains over a 
million of inhabitants, and is a great manufacturing centre. I inspected 
several factories here, including the extensive fan factory belonging to Mr. 
Grunbaum, a brother of our Modesto Grunbaum. He employs 300 opera- 
tives, men and women. He exports his fans to all patts of the world. Mr. 
Grunbaum very kindly showed me over the city, and pointed out to me the 



Appendix. 399 

sights of Vienna. From Vienna I journeyed to Bohemia, thence to Saxony. 
Dresden, the capital of Saxony, has a population of about 100,000, and is 
the finest pleasure resort in Europe. It is like Monterey, in California, or 
Saratoga, in New York. There I met with people from every part of 
Europe and America, from an English lord to a plain, scientific American. 
The largest church in Dresden belongs to the English and American 
residents. 

From Dresden to Berlin is only a few hours' ride. Berlin is about the size of 
Vienna, but built more in the American style than any city I have seen in 
Europe. The streets are wide and airy, the architecture is modern, and the 
mansions of the opulent citizens are stately and tasty, more than in any other 
city on this side of the Atlantic. There is a marked contrast between the 
broad streets of Berlin and the narrow, uncomfortable streets of London and 
Paris. A noticeable feature of this country is the small farms. They 
appear like door-yards when compared with California farms. Women can 
be seen all over the country, working in the fields. No farm machinery is 
to be seen anywhere in this country. Main strength and stupidity seem to 
be the motto in this realm. The largest team I have seen in the country 
was a spike team of three oxen pulling a plow. In one instance I saw a 
woman plowing with a team of oxen, also another woman hauling a load of 
hay with two oxen. 

Since I have been traveling in Europe neither my body nor brain finds 
time to rest. I am continually in motion. In cities I am either traveling on 
tramways under ground, or on elevated railways above ground, and from one 
motion to another. I have to study new coins and new languages. In 
England it was shillings and pence ; in France it was francs and centimes ; in 
Austria it was gulden and kreutzers ; in Germany it is marks and pfennigs. 
What is to come remains to be seen. When I get to the dykes of Holland 
and the Nile of Egypt, I may give you some items on irrigation, as I know 
you are so deeply interested in that subject. I will soon leave Hamburg for 
Northern Europe, thence across Russia to Constantinople. 

Your well-wisher, 

Osmun Johnson. 



LETTER FROM EGYPT TO THE MODESTO "HERALD." 

In my last letter, sent you from Rome, I had scarcely space or time to give 
more than a faint description of my route and the sights which presented 
themselves in Europe, and, as I have been in all the leading cities in Europe, 
and the extreme length of sunny Italy, I must not omit giving a brief 
account of Naples, the most beautiful city in the world, with its fine 



400 Appendix. 

climate and picturesque views, both from land and water. Naples, with its 
600,000 inhabitants, is situated on the Mediterranean Sea, or Bay of Naples, 
and it is the most attractive city I have approached in my travels either in 
Europe or America. It has the most interesting surroundings. Around it 
are Mount Vesuvius — "the burning mountain," Capri, Mount Angelo, 
the Grotto and Pompeii. Mount Vesuvius was in volcanic eruption, 
with the appearance of red fire and of sulphurous vapors, and a noise under- 
ground. The ashes, stones and lava thrown out through this vapor were the 
grandest sight I ever saw. The leading attraction in the city is the National 
Museum, consisting of large statues of ancient heroes, sculpture, paintings, 
specimens of ancient coins, in gold and silver, and house utensils made of 
Pompeii material since seventy-nine years after the birth of Christ. In the 
gallery were many rooms in which were oil and landscape paintings, and 
pictures and inscriptions of every kind and in every style. There are also 
other museums in the city, large churches, fine public buildings, with flowing 
fountains, large statues on horseback, and sculptures. In fact, the city is 
crowded with curiosities of the past ages. 

Life in the narrow streets of Naples is interesting to sight-seers. A 
large portion of the small trade and shop-work is done out-doors on the 
sidewalks, such as shoemaking and tailoring. They have many small boys 
in their employ who learn trades, and the streets are thronged with venders 
of wares. Dealers in produce of all kinds call out at the top of their voices 
the articles they have for sale, which makes the streets of Naples lively in 
appearance and produces a scene of confusion. 

From Naples I resumed my journey to Brindisi, sixteen hours' run over 
a level and interesting country. There I embarked on a large Mediterranean 
steamer for Egypt. On this coast the sea was calm as a mill-pond, and the 
trip was more enjoyable than on the stormy Atlantic, the Baltic or the North 
Sea. On this ship were tourists from many parts of the globe, from an 
English nobleman to a Stanislaus farmer. The first country we 
approached was Greece. We passed the cities of Navarino, Zante, Candia 
and Ghazzi, and this was the last glimpse of Europe. I am now in the land 
of the Pharaohs. Here I have seen many interesting objects for a 
tourist to rest his eyes on. I am now about half-way around the earth. I 
have yet three more great divisions to visit — Africa, Asia and Australia — 
before I have accomplished my journey around the world. 

I will write you again, from Hong-Kong. Osmun Johnson. 



